Shelf Lake

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,130 ft - 12,000 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,870 ft
CMC Rating: Difficult B
Date Hiked: 9 August 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking  #mountainlake #nature

Shelf Lake

The trail to Shelf Lake, off of Guanella Pass Road,  is a moderate to difficult hike to a scenic alpine tarn bordered on three sides by rocky thirteen thousand foot peaks. In Autumn the route is filled with juvenile but still colorful Aspens. In summer wildflowers dominate. While the trail is rough and rocky, the destination is worth the pain.

Pile of rocks that marks the trailhead

Trail sign, which can not be seen coming up the road, but only after you have passed it.

Getting to the trailhead is a pain of a different sort and may not be worth it for some folks. Lately the road really requires a high-clearance vehicle and angelic patience. It is filled with football-sized rocks and large dips that make it harder to travel more than 1 or 2 miles an hour. That can mean a one hour drive from the turnoff on Guanella Pass. What is amazing is the number of passenger cars that have made the journey to camp in one of the many primitive spots along the way. On this trip we were in a 4x4 truck and it was still agonizingly slow.  I wouldn't bring my passenger car on that road, but many obviously do.

Early trail segment. The route is rocky most of the way.

Early views

If you decide to go, travel north on Guanella Pass Road out of Grant Colorado for seven miles. This dirt road has been under construction since 2013 and mid-week travelers will have additional delays. At Forest Road 119, take a left. At the turn there is a small sign indicating the Cedar Break campground. It is 3.5 miles to a small and very obvious pile of black rocks. There is space on the eastern side of this pile for two cars and some space along the road as well. A nice wood sign marks the beginning of the trail. Note this sign is NOT visible from the road until you pass it and look over your right shoulder.

At 0.75 miles the trails goes very sharply uphill.

Looking back down the valley. Autumn is still several weeks away and the Aspens were startlingly green.

The first half of the route is in the trees with limited views. Sometimes Aspens crackle in the wind and at other times Lodgepole Pine provide shade. There are several stream crossings that will require acrobatic rock hopping. In late August, only one was an issue.

Boulder Field

Back bowl comes into view

At 0.75 miles the trail climbs steeply up an escarpment on a trail filled with loose sand and rock. Having a hiking pole for the descent of this segment would be handy. At 1.2 miles is a very large boulder field followed by a backcountry campground. It was easy to navigate the campground on the way up, but not so easy on the way back. We found ourselves a little to the right of our inbound route on one of the many social trails leading to camp spots. Be prepared to really note the route or wander about a bit. At 1.5 miles is a large open meadow filled with Willows and small ponds.

Heading up to the first shelf

Looking down on the first shelf

Near treeline the route gets very pretty with dwarf Sub-alpine Fir, Blue Spruce, and even Lodgepole Pine. Large swaths of wildflowers exist in every open space. At times the trail wanders through large stands of encroaching Willows. Be careful here. Large rocks loom that may send you pitching head over heels into the shrubbery.

Originally, we thought the lake was straight ahead at the back of the bowl. It is actually several shelves up and to the left.

Wildflowers were still blooming, even in mid August.

The approach to the alpine bowl is deceiving. The lake appears to loom directly ahead when in fact it is located up a series of shelves to the left. As such, last half mile is a long series of switchbacks and false summits. Once on the proper shelf, it is still a short walk to the lake itself.

Heading up the last shelf

Arriving at the lake

There are plenty of dry places to lounge around the lake but few rocks, so early in the season the area may be a soggy experience. Directly ahead is the Continental Divide. Decatur Mountain is a craggy bump on the ridge to the left. While you can't see it, the Argentine Pass Trail is just below the ridge on the other side. From there you can climb Argentine Peak, which is the next peak along the ridge to the right. Finally, Square Top Mountain looms large to the east.

This Mountain Goat family (see the kid following the lead parent), were just white moving dots with the naked eye, but can be seen with a cropped photo taken with a telephoto lens.

Square Top Mountain

While lounging at the lake, we saw a family of Mountain Goats traverse the ridge from left to right. Others have reported similar sightings. Finally, be aware that this area is a thunderstorm magnet. They can be seen building from as far away as Silverthorne when other areas along the Divide are clear.

Square Top Mountain

Distance: 7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,670 ft - 13,794 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,124 ft (net) ~2,900 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 September, 2012
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #peakbagging, #gearguide

View from the summit of Square Top Mountain

Square Top Mountain (13,794 ft) is a high 13er directly across from Mt. Beirstadt off of Guanella Pass Colorado. The only trail on this journey is the approach to its base, via Square Top Lakes. From the lakes on, climbing Square Top Mountain it is a tundra and talus bushwhack. This is great fun for those who like to have the mountains to themselves but less fun to those who consider going off trail an invitation to a thousand painful deaths.

A rough schematic of the route

The trailhead.  Square Top Mountain can be seen in the distance.

The other challenging feature of Square Top Mountain, besides the terrain, is the weather. Guanella Pass is a thunderstorm magnet and I have come close to experiencing painful death number 46: the gods are pissed at YOU... at both Silver Dollar Lake as well as Square Top Lakes. It is amazing how motivated you can be to get the hell out of dodge when the heavens open up above treeline. So, rather than just the perennial early start, I would recommend saving Square Top Mountain for one of those rare, cloudless days when you can spend all day on the mountain without fear of divine retribution. Bushwhacking is time consuming and the mountain scenery alluring so give yourself time to enjoy the experience.

Heading across the first valley

Guardian Marmot

The trailhead for Square Top Mountain is located on Guanella Pass itself. Park in the west side lot, which is the overflow for Mt. Beirstadt. You can see the east face of Square Top Mountain from the parking area. As you follow the trail for two miles to lower Square Top Lake, the route will descend 100 ft into a valley before ascending and descending again over a several small ridges that block the view of the lake from the trail. The only vegetation in this tundra environment is Willows and the occasional stunted Sub-alpine Fir.

Approaching the lake

Lower Square Top Lake

Once you see the lake, continue past it on the left for another two tenths of a mile to a trail junction up a short slope. This junction serves upper Square Top Lake (to the right), the South Park 600 Trail (to the left), and Square Top Mountain (straight up). There is an actual sign pointing up the mountain. From this point on, however, you are on your own. How you reach the summit is up to you.

Trail sign pointing up the mountain

Looking up to the first shelf

The funny thing about bushwhacking is what looks good on the topo map and what looks good on the ground can be two different things. It seemed straight forward to head up the mountain in the direction pointed to by the trail sign, but after the first shelf, which was covered in quartz rocks, I realized I would be better off heading southwards and upwards at an angle. I actually ran into two hikers coming down that way and they gave me the best piece of advice. "Go around the mountain to the south and stay well below the summit ridge until you have to pop up", they said. This turned out to be the way to go.

Approaching the first shelf

Looking down from the first shelf

While taking an angled traverse is hard on the ankles, I found there were plenty of flat spots that one could traverse between to give them a bit of a break. Once I got around the mountain I could see the summit ridge stretching off into the distance. The summit of Square Top Mountain might be square, but it is far from flat. Much like fins on the back of a dragon, there are larges piles of boulders placed periodically along the spine of the ridge. These would be a tedious, mind numbing experience if taken all at once.  Don't walk that summit ridge.

Looking up at the initial  angled traverse

A close up of the tundra

As it was, a large river of talus on the southern slope made me pop up sooner than expected.  I was not worried, however, because I thought the large pile of boulders just above was the summit. Oh foolish mortal! There were at least three more false summits (e.g. dragon fins) between me and the summit. Unless you are a member of Cirque du Soliel, and can bounce effortlessly from jagged rock to jagged rock, you will find this last bit of the route time consuming.  Another good reason to wait until a sunny day!

Looking back down from the southern side of the mountain

Just below the summit ridge

Because the summit of Square Top Mountain is so long, the views are not as dramatic as you find on other peaks. You have to walk around to look over the sides. Since I never trust the weather on Guanella Pass, I decided not wander but headed down after a quick snack. This was a prudent choice...by the time I reached the car, the Gods had awoken. Woe to the few hikers I passed heading upwards towards Square Top Lakes. At least today they would be pissed at someone else.

I thought that bump on the horizon was the summit.  The summit is actually multiple bumps  ahead. 

That bump on the horizon is still not the summit.

My decent of the mountain was totally different than the ascent. Things look different coming down as well! I ended up finding some cairns and followed them but they came very close to the sheer cliff of the cirque that contains Upper Square Top Lake. Once again, the fun of bushwhacking is finding your own way. To be safe, however, I would bring along a GPS, a topo map, and a cell phone. At one point I phoned home with my GPS coordinates since no one would have a clue where to starting looking for me on the broad slopes well away from the "obvious route". 

Finally, the summit comes in view

Looking at Grays (14,270 ft) and Torreys (14,267 ft) from the summit

I saw a couple of Mountain Goats below me on the ascent and a large gorilla-sized Marmot below the lakes. I think being cuddled by an overly large marmot is painful death #238 but I will have to check the list and get back to you. 

Looking down on Murray Lake from the summit

The author on the summit

Square Top Mountain is not the first mountain I would recommend in Colorado. There are certainly many nicer ones. Mt. Flora across I-70 on Berthoud Pass is a must do. Still, if you are like me and hate the fact that there are peaks nearby that you have not visited, you will find Square Top Mountain beckoning at some point.

Heading back down

Square Top Lakes

Distance: 4.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,700 ft - 12,300 ft
Elevation Gain: 850 ft (net), 1,100 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: Off leash
Critters: Golden Eagle, White Crowned Sparrow

Lower Square Top Lake as seen from the upper lake. Mt. Bierstadt in the background.

Square Top Lakes near Georgetown Colorado is a short tundra hike to two alpine lakes with incredible views. The entire trail is above treeline, which is always a treat for those like me who don't like slogging miles through the trees to get anywhere.

Looking down into the first valley

I chose this hike for the first hike of the 4th of July weekend because I needed to get my 15 year-old dog out for a short hike that was not overly rocky. Last year I had made it to the lower lake but ended up jogging back to the car as the thunder rolled overhead. This area is notorious for afternoon thunderstorms that will have you cowering in fear if you are careless and start late. On this trip, the skies stayed clear and I was able to lounge at the upper lake for an hour or more. There I saw a Golden Eagle flying against the mountainside. Even with my telephoto lens it was merely a spec against the expanse of rock.

Western Sky Pilot (Polemonium viscosum). It grows at high altitudes on dry rocky sites.

The trailhead for Square Top Lakes is at the apex of Guanella Pass. The lower parking lot is full of Mt. Bierstadt climbers and the upper lot contains overflow. Both lots have nice new bathrooms. The trail descends 100 ft into a small valley where is crosses a creek on a series of wooden bridges. It then rises quickly to a large rocky knoll. There were Buddhist payer flags strung across the rocks here and another hiker told me someone had died in an avalanche there. From this knoll, the trail descends another 100 ft before rising to the first lake. This lake is pretty, but the view from the upper lake is even better. Both lakes are nestled at the base of Square Top Mountain. That is an adventurous hike as well!

A small section of the upper lake

Wildflowers covered the tundra and at one point I tried to estimate their distribution. It seemed like there was one flower every six inches or so. I lost count of the number of species present but white and yellow seemed to be the predominate colors. On the broad shelf that borders the upper lake, tiny tundra flowers sprouted in crevices of every rock. I need to get myself a magnifying glass so I can examine these more closely.

Alpine Sunflower (Hymenoxys grandiflora). Also known as Old-Man-of-the-Mountain. They bloom in clumps from May to June and turns to face the sun.

On my way back down I lingered at the lower lake for a few moments. There I met Jack, a Chesapeake Bay Retrieve/Lab mix. This dog looked more like a Grizzly Bear than dog and he was shuffling through the water of the lake backwards shaking his hindquarters in a most un-lady like manner. The owners said he was trying to loosen rocks on the bottom with his front paws. This activity, combined with piteous whines was a site to behold. Occasionally, Jack would thrust the upper half of his body underwater like a duck feeding on grass and come up spouting. At last, we saw Jack bound out of the water with a 10-pound rock in his mouth. I wish I were so easily entertained. Still, if I were caught moving my hindquarters in a similar manner, I would be arrested for disturbing the peace! This vignette might just convince you that Square Top Lakes is great for dogs.

The White Crowned Sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophyrus) is a migratory songbird that mainly eats seeds. There were many of them singing away in the willows. I have a better photo on my Mayflower Gulch Wildflower Hike

If you check out Square Top Lakes, go early so you won’t have to run from the thunderstorms, which can pop up very quickly on Guanella Pass. Another great hike nearby is Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes.

The rock hound