Sapphire Point

Distance: 0.7 mile loop
Elevation: 9,512-9,503 ft
Elevation Gain: 98 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Date Hiked: 14 July 2014

View of the Ten Mile Range from Sapphire Point

Sapphire Point is a short loop trail to an overlook gazing down on scenic Lake Dillion in Summit County Colorado. There are also picnic tables, but you need to be prepared to haul your load quite a ways to get to them.

The northern start of the loop is on the Swan Mountain bike path

The path is smooth

I decided to check out this trail as a potential place to take my parents. The route is both smooth enough and short enough to qualify as suitable for older folks. I was quite pleased with the views and might take people there just to get them oriented to the area.

Views of Grays (14,270 ft) and Torreys 14,267ft)

Picnic Area overlooking Buffalo Mountain

The overlook

Square Top Mountain

Distance: 7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,670 ft - 13,794 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,124 ft (net) ~2,900 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 September, 2012
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #peakbagging, #gearguide

View from the summit of Square Top Mountain

Square Top Mountain (13,794 ft) is a high 13er directly across from Mt. Beirstadt off of Guanella Pass Colorado. The only trail on this journey is the approach to its base, via Square Top Lakes. From the lakes on, climbing Square Top Mountain it is a tundra and talus bushwhack. This is great fun for those who like to have the mountains to themselves but less fun to those who consider going off trail an invitation to a thousand painful deaths.

A rough schematic of the route

The trailhead.  Square Top Mountain can be seen in the distance.

The other challenging feature of Square Top Mountain, besides the terrain, is the weather. Guanella Pass is a thunderstorm magnet and I have come close to experiencing painful death number 46: the gods are pissed at YOU... at both Silver Dollar Lake as well as Square Top Lakes. It is amazing how motivated you can be to get the hell out of dodge when the heavens open up above treeline. So, rather than just the perennial early start, I would recommend saving Square Top Mountain for one of those rare, cloudless days when you can spend all day on the mountain without fear of divine retribution. Bushwhacking is time consuming and the mountain scenery alluring so give yourself time to enjoy the experience.

Heading across the first valley

Guardian Marmot

The trailhead for Square Top Mountain is located on Guanella Pass itself. Park in the west side lot, which is the overflow for Mt. Beirstadt. You can see the east face of Square Top Mountain from the parking area. As you follow the trail for two miles to lower Square Top Lake, the route will descend 100 ft into a valley before ascending and descending again over a several small ridges that block the view of the lake from the trail. The only vegetation in this tundra environment is Willows and the occasional stunted Sub-alpine Fir.

Approaching the lake

Lower Square Top Lake

Once you see the lake, continue past it on the left for another two tenths of a mile to a trail junction up a short slope. This junction serves upper Square Top Lake (to the right), the South Park 600 Trail (to the left), and Square Top Mountain (straight up). There is an actual sign pointing up the mountain. From this point on, however, you are on your own. How you reach the summit is up to you.

Trail sign pointing up the mountain

Looking up to the first shelf

The funny thing about bushwhacking is what looks good on the topo map and what looks good on the ground can be two different things. It seemed straight forward to head up the mountain in the direction pointed to by the trail sign, but after the first shelf, which was covered in quartz rocks, I realized I would be better off heading southwards and upwards at an angle. I actually ran into two hikers coming down that way and they gave me the best piece of advice. "Go around the mountain to the south and stay well below the summit ridge until you have to pop up", they said. This turned out to be the way to go.

Approaching the first shelf

Looking down from the first shelf

While taking an angled traverse is hard on the ankles, I found there were plenty of flat spots that one could traverse between to give them a bit of a break. Once I got around the mountain I could see the summit ridge stretching off into the distance. The summit of Square Top Mountain might be square, but it is far from flat. Much like fins on the back of a dragon, there are larges piles of boulders placed periodically along the spine of the ridge. These would be a tedious, mind numbing experience if taken all at once.  Don't walk that summit ridge.

Looking up at the initial  angled traverse

A close up of the tundra

As it was, a large river of talus on the southern slope made me pop up sooner than expected.  I was not worried, however, because I thought the large pile of boulders just above was the summit. Oh foolish mortal! There were at least three more false summits (e.g. dragon fins) between me and the summit. Unless you are a member of Cirque du Soliel, and can bounce effortlessly from jagged rock to jagged rock, you will find this last bit of the route time consuming.  Another good reason to wait until a sunny day!

Looking back down from the southern side of the mountain

Just below the summit ridge

Because the summit of Square Top Mountain is so long, the views are not as dramatic as you find on other peaks. You have to walk around to look over the sides. Since I never trust the weather on Guanella Pass, I decided not wander but headed down after a quick snack. This was a prudent choice...by the time I reached the car, the Gods had awoken. Woe to the few hikers I passed heading upwards towards Square Top Lakes. At least today they would be pissed at someone else.

I thought that bump on the horizon was the summit.  The summit is actually multiple bumps  ahead. 

That bump on the horizon is still not the summit.

My decent of the mountain was totally different than the ascent. Things look different coming down as well! I ended up finding some cairns and followed them but they came very close to the sheer cliff of the cirque that contains Upper Square Top Lake. Once again, the fun of bushwhacking is finding your own way. To be safe, however, I would bring along a GPS, a topo map, and a cell phone. At one point I phoned home with my GPS coordinates since no one would have a clue where to starting looking for me on the broad slopes well away from the "obvious route". 

Finally, the summit comes in view

Looking at Grays (14,270 ft) and Torreys (14,267 ft) from the summit

I saw a couple of Mountain Goats below me on the ascent and a large gorilla-sized Marmot below the lakes. I think being cuddled by an overly large marmot is painful death #238 but I will have to check the list and get back to you. 

Looking down on Murray Lake from the summit

The author on the summit

Square Top Mountain is not the first mountain I would recommend in Colorado. There are certainly many nicer ones. Mt. Flora across I-70 on Berthoud Pass is a must do. Still, if you are like me and hate the fact that there are peaks nearby that you have not visited, you will find Square Top Mountain beckoning at some point.

Heading back down

Argentine Pass

Distance: 5.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,100 ft - 13,200 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,100 ft
Date Hiked: 3 September, 2011
Bathroom at Trailhead:  No
Dogs: Yes

The precipitous trail to Argentine Pass

Argentine Pass is a destination most reach by driving their 4x4 or ATV up from Waldorf (out of Georgetown CO) .  The hiker can reach it, however, by hiking up the arduous goat track along the slope of Argentine Peak.  I have wanted to do this hike for years, and this year I got my chance.

Driving into scenic Horseshoe Basin at the end of Peru Creek

Walking by the ruins of the Shoebasin Mine

The trailhead for Argentine Pass is located at the end of Peru Creek Road near Montezuma in Summit County.  While this road is passable for passenger cars, at least to the trailhead for Chihuahua Gulch,  it becomes increasingly rough thereafter so don't try this in your passenger van.  It is only 4.6 miles in, but when you are traveling 5 miles an hour, it takes a while.

Walking up the road

White coated rocks.  The British geologists we met speculated it was due to  Kaolinite Clay coating the rocks.

At the end of the road is a large parking lot on the left.  Don't go beyond this.  The road drifts behind a hill just past this lot and there is a gate blocking further progress that you can't see until you make the bend.

The unmarked sign indicating the start of the trail.  The pass itself is visible to the left.

The route follows the hillside to the left

The trail itself begins at a small unmarked sign in the willows 0.4 miles up this road.  I ran into a volunteer ranger coming down who said it took her an hour to find this spot. We did not have this difficulty but kept wondering where it was as we slowly slogged up the very rocky road. Just keep going, you'll know it when you see it.

The first bend is just ahead.  Decatur Mountain is to the right.

Stunning views back down Peru Creek Valley

After the initial turn, the trail crosses the valley through willows taller than I was. It begins to climb quickly on the other side and will do so unrelentingly until you reach the pass.

The initial part of the route.   There are still plants on the slope.  Grays Peak is to the left.

Looking down on the route through the willows

Argentine Pass Trail has just one switchback and you reach this around 1 mile. The turn here was so rocky, it looked like a stream bed, which would make the route an ankle twisting nightmare. Fortunately, it is not. At the bend, you are already above treeline and a pleasant looking ridgeline is just ahead. It looks trivial to climb Decatur Mountain to the right and someday I hope to return and do just that.

The route becomes more barren, where is the pass?

Clouds loom where only the thistle bloom.  From this point we were still several crenelations away from the pass.

The views looking back down Peru Creek Valley are stunning from this point and if you are looking for a shorter outing, you could turn around right at the bend and call it a day. If you continue on, it is another 1.6 miles to the pass. Note, the guidebooks all say it is 2 miles to the pass, but add on the distance from the parking lot to the trailhead and another 0.2 miles of navigation error and my GPS said the distance was 2.6 miles one way.

Traversing a wide area.  On the very narrow spots, I did not take pictures.  I needed both hands at the ready in case I slipped.

At last the pass comes into view

The terrain on this part of the route is unchanging. It is rocky, very narrow in places, and devoid of vegetation accept for the mysterious Frosty Ball Thistle. You can't really see your destination from the trail because it continually weaves in and out of drainages that hug the mountain side and the ridgeline in the distance all looks the same.  This trip became an exercise in "are we there yet" as we took turns on point hoping the next bend in the trail would show us the pass.

Argentine Peak from the pass

Grays Peak (left) and Torreys Peak (just to the right of Grays) from the pass

The views from the route are amazing, so don't let the tedious nature of the trail itself deter you. The entire time you are looking down into a bowl bordered on the north by Grays Peak (14,270 ft) and Ruby Mountain (13,228ft). To the east is Mt. Edwards (13,850 ft) and of course Argentine Peak (13,738 ft) is several hundred feet above on the right.

Looking south at Mt. Wilcox (13.408 ft) from the pass. Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes are on the other side.

Reaching the pass is somewhat anticlimactic.   I have heard that Waldorf on the other side is stunning, but the slope is so gradual, you can't really see much from the pass itself.  I had hoped to climb Mt. Argentine from the pass, but we did not get started on the trail until after 1pm and pressed upwards despite the looming black clouds that always seem to shroud this area.  Going even higher was out of the question.

Back down now, admiring an old cabin in the meadow across from the parking lot

It is the history of this trail that makes it worth doing, however.  Initially a stagecoach route and later a railroad, there are places where the trail is still relatively wide and flat. Other places are so narrow a Pika would have trouble staying level. Every time I looked down I could not help but picture Grandma Moses bouncing along on those wagon wheels as the edge came in and out of view.  I have heard stories of pack animals being blown off the ridge and I could well believe it. The relentless snows in this area made this road unprofitable and it was eventually abandoned. The effort folks went to back then to traverse the Continental Divide just amaze me. And I bitch when I have to take Loveland Pass because the Eisenhower Tunnel is closed!

Late 1800's image of Argentine Pass by Chamberlain, W. G. (William Gunnison) -- Photographer [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons. 

Hiking to Argentine Pass is not an easy trail.  I had climbed Mt. Democrat two days before and my quads were wondering what on earth I was doing.  Knowing the route now, I might return to climb Mt. Edwards or Argentine Peak, but it won't be on the top of my list. Instead, I would rather continue up the road to several shelf lakes that nestle at the base of Grays and Ruby.  We ran into some Brits on the trail who have been in the area many times and have climbed Grays from that route. They were complaining about the altitude but once they told me that story, I knew their posturing was just for show.

Grays and Torreys Peaks

Distance: 8.25 miles round trip
Elevation: 14,270 ft (Grays) & 14,267 ft (Torreys)
Elevation Gain: 3,200 ft
Date Hiked: 23 August, 2006 (some photos from 2010)
Dogs: Off Leash

View from the summit of Grays Peak (2010)

I lost my 14er virginity on Grays Peak and even dropped trough on the summit in celebration, but I get ahead of myself. Grays has been the site of many deflowerings because it is an easy Class I (walk up) ascent and is close to Denver. If you tend towards exhibitionism or don't mind sharing your panting climaxes with 200 or so of your fellow adventurers then by all means join the herd and head to Grays and its sister Torreys for your first ascent.

A photo of the route up Grays and Torreys from the 14ers.com website.

I was fortunate in that I took a day off of work back in August of 2006 and so I only had to smoke the proverbial cigarette with 7 other people. I learned a thing or two about mountaineering that day and fell in love with 360° views.

The stream near the trailhead (2006)

The trailhead to Grays and Torreys Peaks is up Steven Gulch Rd off I-70 near Bakersville. Bring a 4WD because the road is filled with SUV consuming potholes. The parking lot is also small, so join the rest of the smart ones and get there before 7am, which brings me to my first mountaineering lesson: Start early. In Colorado, most summer days are filled with afternoon thunderstorms. You really need to consider being off the mountain before 1 PM. If the weather gods are kind, you'll have clear skies and can linger on the summit but don't plan on it. Start out too late, and you will be dodging lighting bolts as you tumble head over heels down the mountain.

The sparse landscape and high valley walls (2010)

The route up these two mountains starts off crossing a small creek and then heads up a broad valley bordered on each side by long ridges. There is not much to see here but some low willows and piles of talus. The route continues this way for quite a while before it finally starts to climb upwards over and around series of large shoulders. It is here that Torreys comes into view since it lies directly at the end of the valley.

The terrain from the end of the valley (2006)

It wasn't until I was past these bumps and entered the many switchbacks that head up the face of Grays did I really consider myself on the mountain. From this point on it is back and forth, back and forth, inching ever higher. Grays is a gray, dreary, monotonous experience. The only view is back down the valley. It is however, an accessible experience for those who want a taste of altitude.

Torreys comes into view at the end of the valley. The route is going to ascend the large pile to the left (2006).

The summit came surprisingly fast and I was suddenly surrounded by views for what seemed to me at the time to be little effort. I immediately had to put on the several layers I fortunately packed in my bag. This was lesson number two: It really is cold Virginia, up there on the craggy bits. Plan for it by bringing layers.

On the slope of Grays, looking back down the valley (2010)

We ate lunch on the summit and then I waited in line for a clear spot for a bio break. My companions were all the way back down to the saddle (at 13,707 ft) between Grays and Torreys by the time the honeymooners near me were done taking pictures and moved off so I could have 30 seconds of privacy. When I was done, I raced down and started up Torreys way too fast as I tried to catch up with my friends. Half way up Torreys, the altitude hit me like a ton of bricks. My vision became blurred and my breathing erratic. Here was lesson three: Don't eat if there is more elevation gain in the schedule. All that blood and oxygen needed to keep your brain functioning goes right to your stomach and is not available for other things like foot placement and lung function. Note honeymooners, the same thing happens during other activities.

Looking over to Torreys. Note we are not alone on the mountain (2010)

The trail up Torreys is a vertical calf-burner with limited switchbacks. It is only 560 feet of elevation gain to the summit, but is slightly more difficult because of the terrain, and the fact you cover this in only 0.5 miles. Anytime you can bag more than one peak in a day, is a good day in the mountains, however, and we were lucky that the weather held and we did not have to head down.

Another view near the summit (2010)

The route down from Torreys is straight forward. Once back down to the saddle there is a spur trail that connects with the trail coming up Grays so it is a simple route. I experienced my fourth lesson at this point of the trail: Going down is not nearly as much fun as going up. Not only is it harder on the legs, but the thrill is gone and there is nothing but the parking lot as motivation. Mountain climbing is the only sport that celebrates at the half way mark. In the case of more dangerous routes, this trend is amusing because getting down is often more life threatening than getting up. I am not in that league, however, so it is more ennui that is the biggest threat to my existence.

My friends on the saddle between Grays and Torreys (Lynn Johnson, 2006)

The slog back down the valley was particularly tedious and I was low on water. Here was my final lesson of the day: On bare mountain slopes there is no water and you have to carry everything you need, which is no fun because water is very heavy.

There is one denizen of the mountain who lives there year round (2006)

As a parting shot (pun intended), I would like to give a note of thanks to the photographers I have so shamelessly stolen from to make this post possible. I climbed these peaks two years before I started this blog and did not bring a camera with me. None of my friends on my ascent took a full trail profile, so I have not been able to blog this popular trail. Recently, however another friend, Sarah Meyer, reached the summit of Grays and took a bunch of pictures that have finally enabled me to share my impressions with my fellow hikers. Her pictures are labeled 2010. The others are given credit if I know who took them, otherwise they are just labeled 2006.