Staircase Rapids Loop

Distance: 2 miles round trip
Critters: Banana Slugs

Flora: More ferns than you can shake a stick at

Sunlight only dimly reaches the floor of the forest on the Staircase Rapids Loop

While on business to the Ft. Lewis area of Washington State last month, I took a day to explore the area. I wanted to set foot in Olympic National Park and so I drove to the Staircase Area, which took me about an hour. My original intent was to hike the Hoh Rainforest, but that trailhead was 3 hours away. Let me tell you that the Olympic Peninsula is big!

Lake Cushman borders the route to the Grand Staircase area

Moss and ferns, moss and ferns!

I started freaking out the moment I stepped onto the Staircase Rapids Trail. The trees were the size of skyscrapers, the ferns the size of Volkswagen Beetles, and the moss looked like it would reach out smother you if you stood still too long. The forest was so dense that 10 Sasquatches could have been hiding behind each tree and you never would know it. I kept waiting for a giant Banana Slug to leap out and cover me in a blanket of slime. Step off the trail in this forest and you would be lost for the next 10,000 years. They would never even find your bones! And this was only 1 mile into the wilderness!

Typical Trail Segments

The Staircase Rapids Trail follows the Skokomish River and winds in and out of dense trees. The bridge was out at the far end, and although I had planned on fording the stream, decided not to when I saw the speed of the current and the large rocks I would have had to walk on. I am not sure the trail would have been much different on the other side. The forest seemed uniformly green to me. Sigh, I am such a spoiled Coloradan. In Colorado, as all my blog posts will attest, the scenery is forever changing. I wonder if I would get bored hiking on the Olympic Peninsula if that is where I lived.

Bark of the Red Cedar Tree

Sunlight glinting through the moss

I did find myself being drawn to the micro-scale since the macro-scale was so monotonous. This too can be hazardous. Some fellow hikers discovered me ignominiously buttocks up, face down in a pile of moss. I told them I was fascinated by the forest within a forest. From their facial expressions, I could tell they thought I was rooting around for magic mushrooms like some truffle happy pig.

Ferns!!

I had planned to spend the entire day in this area but decided to take the plunge and drive out to the coast instead. That was a very long drive indeed. Did I mention that the Olympic Peninsula is big?

Fungi with the river in the background

If you go to the staircase area, be advised that you may feel like you will never get there, or worse that you are lost on the back roads. There are very few signs guiding you to the park, and the main route travels besides Lake Cushman and all the splitter roads leading to lake-side cabins. The road also turns to dirt before it returns to pavement just before the entrance. That was particularly disconcerting.

River views

Rare glimpse of the Skokomish River in full sunlight

In the Staircase are is a ranger station and a bathroom, but no ranger on duty per say. There are maps to the entire park on the door to the cottage but the trail I was on was dwarfed by the scale of entire park. There are more strenuous trails in the area as well. To get to Wilson Lake, one hikes two miles with nearly 4,000 ft elevation gain. That is a 14er by Colorado standards. If the entire trip wasn't in the trees, I might have chosen that trail as an option.

Big Horn Sheep of Mount Evans

Ewe in a field of wild flowers. She is not as scruffy as some of the others

Big Horn Sheep have star appeal. Between a grid iron physic and showy head gear (only on the males), they fascinate us with their dramatic mating rituals and high country antics.

Young Males Sparring

I have lived Colorado for over 10 years, however, and this is only the fourth time I have seen them, and I have never seen an adult male, only ewes and young'ens. One of these days though my luck will improve and I will be able to provide you with a more iconic shot.

These photos come from Mt. Evans. Last summer I took some folks hiking on the Pessman Trail. After the hike we drove to the summit of the 14,000 ft mountain and saw many Mountain Goats but also this herd Big Horn Sheep. The herd members were all shedding their winter coats making them look scraggy and unphotogenic. The herd contained adult Ewes and juveniles both male and female. This is the norm.

And they're off!

I did not have much time to observe the sheep, but I did get this running sequence. Was it just juveniles at play, or was the group sick of the nosy, camera laden tourists?

October Dumper

It is not Halloween yet and we have already had a major snowstorm. My house received 20 inches. The last time this happened to Denver was 1997. Here are a couple of photos.

The hot tub became our official measuring site. That is 20 inches on top of it.

Looking out a 2-story window onto a 3-story Blue Spruce

Looking out the front door

Every branch on every tree has been covered with snow

Barr Lake

Distance: 9 mile loop
Elevation gain: none, flat
Dogs: Not allowed
Critters: Birds, birds birds!

Distant view of birds out on Barr Lake

Barr Lake is a State Park filled with waterfowl. I went there to try out my new 500mm Canon lens. The lake was too low to get very close to the birds but the scenery made up for it. All the marsh plants were high and dry and a fall-ish rusty color. The weather was also sublime, particularly knowing that the following day it was supposed to snow!

A group of Cackling Geese (Branta hutchinsii) swim past some of their sleeping cousins [Canada Geese (Branta canadensis)]. Until recently, the Cackling Goose was thought to be a sub-species of the Canada Goose. They have shorter necks, are smaller in general, and have a dark breast.

A half of a mile from the shoreline was a small cluster of birds. These include Pelicans and Cormorants.

American Coot (Fulica americana) was a common site at the lake.

I was surprised at how built up the area is around the lake. There is one large shopping mall nearby and the ubiquitous Starbucks a few miles away for those who need their fix. It was not long ago that Barr Lake was practically "in Kansas" it was so far out on the plains. Humans are encroaching here as well.

My prized shot, a Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus) roosting in a tall Cottonwood tree. We had stood under this tree for half an hour taking pictures, walked on and met some birders who asked if we had seen the owl. We raced back and there he was. I "hoo hoo'ed" at him and he open his eye ever so slightly. From the ground and with the naked eye he looked like just part of the tree. See how his banded feathers make him blend in with the tree bark?

Bald Eagle from a mile a way. Compared with my photos of Bald Eagles from the Bird Islands Nova Scotia, this shot is particularly dull. You can walk right up to this snag however.

Female Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)

The park contains a nice nature center, which puts on educational programs. There was the typical stuffed birds and animal skins. I wrapped the fox skin around my neck and struck a naughty, aristocratic pose. Fortunately, only the ghosts of the birds lining the walls were there to poo poo my shameful behavior. The nature center also has a solarium with a nice couch overlooking an extensive bird feeder. Numerous Sparrows and Blue Jays could be seen hopping about feeding area.

Views of the Lake

The trail around the lake is a broad dirt road intermixed with side trails and board walks. While long, it is any easy walk. Since we were all loaded down with camera gear we only managed to travel 1.5 miles to a gazebo that juts out into the water. From there we saw the resident Bald Eagle on its perch a mile away. Some large deer with huge antlers could be seen cowering under the shrubbery near the eagle's nest. The closest birds were only 0.3 miles from the nature center however near a nice shaded sitting area.

Boardwalk from the Gazebo. At one point this was all over water.

Some areas of the lake are totally overgrown now

I have no idea if the water level in Barr Lake is seasonal or if drought has kept it low. For now it is better enjoyed as a broad panorama vice a photographers mecca.

Marshall Mesa

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,520 ft to 5,740 ft
Elevation Gain: 220 ft
Dogs: Off leash with green tag

From Marshall Mesa, you can almost see forever

Marshall Mesa is one of my favorite close-in hikes. The views of the Flatirons are gorgeous and the diverse landscape is appealing in both fall and summer. Marshall Mesa is a broad slopping plateau filled with grasses, Cottonwood Trees, and shrubs. The Community Ditch cuts through it and in spring this ditch is filled with flowing water.

The view from the parking lot. The new trail heads across the open meadow but will eventually ascend up above the trees.

Standing on one of the ancient sandstone formations that form part of the area. Millions of years ago, this area was a beach. You can still see the waves embedded in the sands. It is a 10 foot drop off on the other side of the tree.

The area is owned by Boulder City Open Space, so things have changed the last couple of years. The trail head was moved a mile west and expanded. It now includes bathrooms and a larger parking area. Mountain bikes have become more prevalent as well since Boulder has been converting many of its trails to be bike friendly. The downside of course is that this makes the trails less people friendly. I know that bikes are supposed to yield to humans and all that, but the reality is that they don't. You are lucky not to get tossed in a ditch as the race by. On very rare occasions, have I seen bikes pull over for humans. I always praise them. "Good boy, good girl!"

Heading across the formation to the open meadow beyond

I was hoping for gorgeous fall color on this trip, but the unseasonable freeze the week before turned all the leave brown. In spring, this meadow and the Cottonwoods that dominate it, are very pretty indeed.

The change in the trail head has also changed the available routes in the area. There are two loops one can do, a 3 mile loop and a 2 mile loop. You can travel farther by doubling back on these loops or by heading off on spur trails that extend from the area. Pick up a map at the trail head to view these options.

Go straight up the hill on the other side of the bridge and you are on the 2-mile loop. Go left and you are on the 3-mile loop.

Looking east towards Kansas on the left option. Here the trail begins to climb upwards.

When the trail reaches it maximum elevation (~200ft elevation gain), a spur trail heads off to the left. This is a dead end trail and dogs must be on a leash. The main trail heads to the right. Straight ahead, as you see in this picture is a lake. It is private.

The photos in this post were taken on the 3 mile loop going counter-clockwise. I prefer this direction because it means facing west on the highest part of the route. The views from there are just lovely.

A small vestige of fall color in some shrubs along the Community Ditch Trail. In spring the ditch would be filled with lazily flowing water.

The flatirons from the Community Ditch Trail

Parts of this loop traverse the Community Ditch Trail, which is wide and almost road-like and parts traverse the official Marshall Mesa Trail, which is rockier and travels near some interesting geological features. These trails are great for Sunday strolls, trail runs, or doggie walks. Even in January there is something to see and the stark landscape retains its charm under the deep blue skies of winter.

Follow this side trail to the Greenbelt Plateau parking area

A sandstone bluff near the end of the loop. The Community Ditch Trail continues west across highway 93. That is a pleasant walk in and of itself.

Give this area a try the next time you want a leisurely stroll in a beautiful area that does not take all day to get to.

Heading down the far side of the loop. The parking lot is about a 0.5 miles away.

This sandstone boulder is near the end of the trail. Can you see the ripples?