Showing posts with label Argentine Pass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Argentine Pass. Show all posts

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Shelf Lake

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,130 ft - 12,000 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,870 ft
CMC Rating: Difficult B
Date Hiked: 9 August 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking  #mountainlake #nature

Shelf Lake
The trail to Shelf Lake, off of Guanella Pass Road,  is a moderate to difficult hike to a scenic alpine tarn bordered on three sides by rocky thirteen thousand foot peaks. In Autumn the route is filled with juvenile but still colorful Aspens. In summer wildflowers dominate. While the trail is rough and rocky, the destination is worth the pain.

Pile of rocks that marks the trailhead
Trail sign, which can not be seen coming up the road, but only after you have passed it.
Getting to the trailhead is a pain of a different sort and may not be worth it for some folks. Lately the road really requires a high-clearance vehicle and angelic patience. It is filled with football-sized rocks and large dips that make it harder to travel more than 1 or 2 miles an hour. That can mean a one hour drive from the turnoff on Guanella Pass. What is amazing is the number of passenger cars that have made the journey to camp in one of the many primitive spots along the way. On this trip we were in a 4x4 truck and it was still agonizingly slow.  I wouldn't bring my passenger car on that road, but many obviously do.

Early trail segment. The route is rocky most of the way.
Early views
If you decide to go, travel north on Guanella Pass Road out of Grant Colorado for seven miles. This dirt road has been under construction since 2013 and mid-week travelers will have additional delays. At Forest Road 119, take a left. At the turn there is a small sign indicating the Cedar Break campground. It is 3.5 miles to a small and very obvious pile of black rocks. There is space on the eastern side of this pile for two cars and some space along the road as well. A nice wood sign marks the beginning of the trail. Note this sign is NOT visible from the road until you pass it and look over your right shoulder.

At 0.75 miles the trails goes very sharply uphill.
Looking back down the valley. Autumn is still several weeks away and the Aspens were startlingly green.
The first half of the route is in the trees with limited views. Sometimes Aspens crackle in the wind and at other times Lodgepole Pine provide shade. There are several stream crossings that will require acrobatic rock hopping. In late August, only one was an issue.

Boulder Field
Back bowl comes into view
At 0.75 miles the trail climbs steeply up an escarpment on a trail filled with loose sand and rock. Having a hiking pole for the descent of this segment would be handy. At 1.2 miles is a very large boulder field followed by a backcountry campground. It was easy to navigate the campground on the way up, but not so easy on the way back. We found ourselves a little to the right of our inbound route on one of the many social trails leading to camp spots. Be prepared to really note the route or wander about a bit. At 1.5 miles is a large open meadow filled with Willows and small ponds.

Heading up to the first shelf
Looking down on the first shelf
Near treeline the route gets very pretty with dwarf Sub-alpine Fir, Blue Spruce, and even Lodgepole Pine. Large swaths of wildflowers exist in every open space. At times the trail wanders through large stands of encroaching Willows. Be careful here. Large rocks loom that may send you pitching head over heels into the shrubbery.

Originally, we thought the lake was straight ahead at the back of the bowl. It is actually several shelves up and to the left.
Wildflowers were still blooming, even in mid August.
The approach to the alpine bowl is deceiving. The lake appears to loom directly ahead when in fact it is located up a series of shelves to the left. As such, last half mile is a long series of switchbacks and false summits. Once on the proper shelf, it is still a short walk to the lake itself.

Heading up the last shelf
Arriving at the lake
There are plenty of dry places to lounge around the lake but few rocks, so early in the season the area may be a soggy experience. Directly ahead is the Continental Divide. Decatur Mountain is a craggy bump on the ridge to the left. While you can't see it, the Argentine Pass Trail is just below the ridge on the other side. From there you can climb Argentine Peak, which is the next peak along the ridge to the right. Finally, Square Top Mountain looms large to the east.

This Mountain Goat family (see the kid following the lead parent), were just white moving dots with the naked eye, but can be seen with a cropped photo taken with a telephoto lens.
Square Top Mountain
While lounging at the lake, we saw a family of Mountain Goats traverse the ridge from left to right. Others have reported similar sightings. Finally, be aware that this area is a thunderstorm magnet. They can be seen building from as far away as Silverthorne when other areas along the Divide are clear.

Sunday, August 25, 2013

Lenawee Trail

Distance: 5.5 miles round trip to our lunch spot, 6.7 miles round trip to the ridge.
Elevation: 10,406 ft - 12,272 ft (lunch spot), 12,530 ft (ridge)
Elevation Gain: 1,900 ft (lunch spot), 2,130 ft (ridge)
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Date Hiked: 11 July 2013

The Lenawee Trail above treeline has spectacular views
The Lenawee Trail near Keystone Colorado takes the hiker to rarely visited Thurman Gulch on the back side of the Arapahoe Ski Area where you just might get harassed by domestically inclined Mountain Goats.

Peru Creek Road and the limited parking
The small trailhead sign
The Lenawee trailhead is on Peru Creek Road, which in turn is located on the way to Montezuma from Keystone. You will recognize the large parking lot on the left that is the winter trailhead for Peru Creek. Drive approximately 4.5 miles up the road until you see the trail sign on the left and then park along the road in one of the few spots that are far enough removed from the continual traffic. While Peru Creek is a dirt road that is slightly rough it is passable by your typical 2WD vehicle. Just be cautious if you decide to continue up the road towards Argentine Pass as Peru Creek gets progressively rougher the further you go.

The first mile of the trail is in the trees with limited views.
After the first switchback, interesting piles of rock break up the monotony.
The major downside of the Lenawee Trail is the first mile, which gains a healthy 840 ft in a long slog through the trees. On this trip, it was hotter than hell's half acre and I was leaking electrolytes at a prodigious rate. Fortunately, at treeline some clouds moved in and a cooling breeze saved me from transforming into a dessicated shrub.

The first views of Thurman Gulch appear
Almost above treeline
At 1.2 miles, the trail finally starts to switchback and open up with interesting rock formations. Views of Thurman Gulch appear as the Sub-alpine Firs start to shrink. Once above treeline options abound.  You can continue to the end of the trail, which crosses Thurman Gulch and climbs up to Arapaho Basin; wander east across the tundra to gaze down on Chihuahua Lake and Grays Peak; or park it on a rocky outcropping to lounge, feed, and admire the views. On this trip I chose the latter. This might have been a fortuitous choice. A family of four told me that on the ridge there were some overly protective Mountain Goats protecting their young'ens. They actually charged the family and drove them back down the trail.

This is my favorite view on the trail. They rock formations are huge. Note the trees to the left. They remind me of the aircraft carrier formation on the Shrine Mountain Trail.
Thurman Gulch dominates the views once the trees fade.
The Lenawee Trail is one of those places where the fun begins near the end of the route, so save it for a nice day. On a glorious Summit County day, when the weather is sublime, you could spend half a day wandering around above treeline.

The trail heads straight along the ridge to Thurman Gulch
The view from our lunch spot. It is another 1.2 miles round trip to the ridge and back.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Argentine Pass

Distance: 5.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,100 ft - 13,200 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,100 ft
Date Hiked: 3 September, 2011
Bathroom at Trailhead:  No
Dogs: Yes

The rugged trail to get to Argentine Pass
The precipitous trail to Argentine Pass
Argentine Pass is a destination most reach by driving their 4x4 or ATV up from Waldorf (out of Georgetown CO) .  The hiker can reach it, however, by hiking up the arduous goat track along the slope of Argentine Peak.  I have wanted to do this hike for years, and this year I got my chance.

Driving into scenic Horseshoe Basin at the end of Peru Creek
Walking by the ruins of the Shoebasin Mine
The trailhead for Argentine Pass is located at the end of Peru Creek Road near Montezuma in Summit County.  While this road is passable for passenger cars, at least to the trailhead for Chihuahua Gulch,  it becomes increasingly rough thereafter so don't try this in your passenger van.  It is only 4.6 miles in, but when you are traveling 5 miles an hour, it takes a while.

Walking up the road
White coated rocks.  The British geologists we met speculated it was due to  Kaolinite Clay coating the rocks.
At the end of the road is a large parking lot on the left.  Don't go beyond this.  The road drifts behind a hill just past this lot and there is a gate blocking further progress that you can't see until you make the bend.

The unmarked sign indicating the start of the trail.  The pass itself is visible to the left.
The route follows the hillside to the left
The trail itself begins at a small unmarked sign in the willows 0.4 miles up this road.  I ran into a volunteer ranger coming down who said it took her an hour to find this spot. We did not have this difficulty but kept wondering where it was as we slowly slogged up the very rocky road. Just keep going, you'll know it when you see it.

The first bend is just ahead.  Decatur Mountain is to the right.
Stunning views back down Peru Creek Valley
After the initial turn, the trail crosses the valley through willows taller than I was. It begins to climb quickly on the other side and will do so unrelentingly until you reach the pass.

The initial part of the route.   There are still plants on the slope.  Grays Peak is to the left.
Looking down on the route through the willows
Argentine Pass Trail has just one switchback and you reach this around 1 mile. The turn here was so rocky, it looked like a stream bed, which would make the route an ankle twisting nightmare. Fortunately, it is not. At the bend, you are already above treeline and a pleasant looking ridgeline is just ahead. It looks trivial to climb Decatur Mountain to the right and someday I hope to return and do just that.

The route becomes more barren, where is the pass?
Clouds loom where only the thistle bloom.  From this point we were still several crenelations away from the pass.
The views looking back down Peru Creek Valley are stunning from this point and if you are looking for a shorter outing, you could turn around right at the bend and call it a day. If you continue on, it is another 1.6 miles to the pass. Note, the guidebooks all say it is 2 miles to the pass, but add on the distance from the parking lot to the trailhead and another 0.2 miles of navigation error and my GPS said the distance was 2.6 miles one way.

Traversing a wide area.  On the very narrow spots, I did not take pictures.  I needed both hands at the ready in case I slipped.
At last the pass comes into view
The terrain on this part of the route is unchanging. It is rocky, very narrow in places, and devoid of vegetation accept for the mysterious Frosty Ball Thistle. You can't really see your destination from the trail because it continually weaves in and out of drainages that hug the mountain side and the ridgeline in the distance all looks the same.  This trip became an exercise in "are we there yet" as we took turns on point hoping the next bend in the trail would show us the pass.

Argentine Pass gotten too from the Argentine Pass Trail.  No ATVing for us!
Argentine Peak from the pass
Grays Peak (left) and Torreys Peak (just to the right of Grays) from the pass
The views from the route are amazing, so don't let the tedious nature of the trail itself deter you. The entire time you are looking down into a bowl bordered on the north by Grays Peak (14,270 ft) and Ruby Mountain (13,228ft). To the east is Mt. Edwards (13,850 ft) and of course Argentine Peak (13,738 ft) is several hundred feet above on the right.

Looking south at Mt. Wilcox (13.408 ft) from the pass. Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes are on the other side.
Reaching the pass is somewhat anticlimactic.   I have heard that Waldorf on the other side is stunning, but the slope is so gradual, you can't really see much from the pass itself.  I had hoped to climb Mt. Argentine from the pass, but we did not get started on the trail until after 1pm and pressed upwards despite the looming black clouds that always seem to shroud this area.  Going even higher was out of the question.

Back down now, admiring an old cabin in the meadow across from the parking lot
It is the history of this trail that makes it worth doing, however.  Initially a stagecoach route and later a railroad, there are places where the trail is still relatively wide and flat. Other places are so narrow a Pika would have trouble staying level. Every time I looked down I could not help but picture Grandma Moses bouncing along on those wagon wheels as the edge came in and out of view.  I have heard stories of pack animals being blown off the ridge and I could well believe it. The relentless snows in this area made this road unprofitable and it was eventually abandoned. The effort folks went to back then to traverse the Continental Divide just amaze me. And I bitch when I have to take Loveland Pass because the Eisenhower Tunnel is closed!

Late 1800's image of Argentine Pass by Chamberlain, W. G. (William Gunnison) -- Photographer [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons. 
Hiking to Argentine Pass is not an easy trail.  I had climbed Mt. Democrat two days before and my quads were wondering what on earth I was doing.  Knowing the route now, I might return to climb Mt. Edwards or Argentine Peak, but it won't be on the top of my list. Instead, I would rather continue up the road to several shelf lakes that nestle at the base of Grays and Ruby.  We ran into some Brits on the trail who have been in the area many times and have climbed Grays from that route. They were complaining about the altitude but once they told me that story, I knew their posturing was just for show.

North Rock Creek Snowshoe

Distance: 4 miles round trip Elevation: 9,180 ft to 9,780 ft Elevation Gain: 600 ft Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary North...