Lilly Pad Lake from Ryan Gulch Road

Distance: 3.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,619 ft - 9,915 ft (high pt is 10,003 ft)
Elevation gain: 314 ft (net), 900 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Date Hiked: 25 July 2012
Dogs: Technically on leash (wilderness)

Lilly Pad Lake

For those who live on the slopes of Buffalo Mountain in Silverthorne, an evening stroll to Lilly Pad Lake is a delightful way to escape the heat. Located at the far "up mountain" extent of Ryan Gulch Road, the trailhead with its large kiosk is impossible to miss. 

Trailhead

Fireweed and blue skies greet the hiker starting out for Lilly Pad Lake

If you have never done this trail before, be forewarned, the trail starts out heading sharply upwards along a wide dirt road. The angle of ascent will make you feel like you are climbing Buffalo Mountain and you will wish you had brought along your supplemental oxygen. Don't worry though, while steep, this section is short and the trail soon levels out before crossing a large clear-cut meadow with spectacular views of the Lake Dillon and the continental divide.  While shocking to some, this clear cut area is a necessary consequence to the ongoing Pine Bark Beetle infestation and without it, we would have no views on this trail. 

Where's the Moose? 

Typical crossing of one of the swampy areas of the trail

Once past the meadow, the trail dives into the trees and gets swampy.  You won't need fishing gaiters, however because there are wooden bridges or stones to keep your feet dry. In the same area are several Moose-friendly ponds to capture your interest. Do keep your eyes peeled for these tough-guys of the forest. They have been spotted more than once in the area. If you don't see a Moose, you'll for sure find wildflowers blooming in the damp soil and birds chirping melodiously from every shrub. 

Crossing a large talus pile

Typical dry segment in Aspens

For the remainder of the trip, the trail dries out and meanders up and down gracefully through Ponderosa or Aspen forest.  At times the shallow roots of the Aspen trees are exposed creating trip hazards so look down every once in a while or your'll find yourself admiring the roots up close! 

The junction with the Salt Lick Trail, which heads straight down Buffalo Mountain. 

A Clark's Nuthatch watches over the trail.

There are actually two lakes at the culmination of this trail. Lilly Pad Lake is large and shallow and shaded by many less-than-perfect Ponderosa Pines. There is also a smaller lake or pond that is actually covered in Lilly Pads and on this route is arrived at first, so don't be fooled. Head a little further down the trail and you'll come to the main lake.  The smaller lake is the more attractive, but be sure to visit both. 

The smaller lake filled with Lilly Pads 

A close up of some Lilly Pad flowers

Recall that you can also get to Lilly Pad Lake from the Frisco side. If you are new to the area or just visiting, take that route. It is far more scenic and will introduce to several of the biomes in the area. On the other hand, denizens of Wildernest will need no encouragement to take this route since it is literally out their back door.  

Square Top Mountain

Distance: 7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,670 ft - 13,794 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,124 ft (net) ~2,900 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 September, 2012
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #peakbagging, #gearguide

View from the summit of Square Top Mountain

Square Top Mountain (13,794 ft) is a high 13er directly across from Mt. Beirstadt off of Guanella Pass Colorado. The only trail on this journey is the approach to its base, via Square Top Lakes. From the lakes on, climbing Square Top Mountain it is a tundra and talus bushwhack. This is great fun for those who like to have the mountains to themselves but less fun to those who consider going off trail an invitation to a thousand painful deaths.

A rough schematic of the route

The trailhead.  Square Top Mountain can be seen in the distance.

The other challenging feature of Square Top Mountain, besides the terrain, is the weather. Guanella Pass is a thunderstorm magnet and I have come close to experiencing painful death number 46: the gods are pissed at YOU... at both Silver Dollar Lake as well as Square Top Lakes. It is amazing how motivated you can be to get the hell out of dodge when the heavens open up above treeline. So, rather than just the perennial early start, I would recommend saving Square Top Mountain for one of those rare, cloudless days when you can spend all day on the mountain without fear of divine retribution. Bushwhacking is time consuming and the mountain scenery alluring so give yourself time to enjoy the experience.

Heading across the first valley

Guardian Marmot

The trailhead for Square Top Mountain is located on Guanella Pass itself. Park in the west side lot, which is the overflow for Mt. Beirstadt. You can see the east face of Square Top Mountain from the parking area. As you follow the trail for two miles to lower Square Top Lake, the route will descend 100 ft into a valley before ascending and descending again over a several small ridges that block the view of the lake from the trail. The only vegetation in this tundra environment is Willows and the occasional stunted Sub-alpine Fir.

Approaching the lake

Lower Square Top Lake

Once you see the lake, continue past it on the left for another two tenths of a mile to a trail junction up a short slope. This junction serves upper Square Top Lake (to the right), the South Park 600 Trail (to the left), and Square Top Mountain (straight up). There is an actual sign pointing up the mountain. From this point on, however, you are on your own. How you reach the summit is up to you.

Trail sign pointing up the mountain

Looking up to the first shelf

The funny thing about bushwhacking is what looks good on the topo map and what looks good on the ground can be two different things. It seemed straight forward to head up the mountain in the direction pointed to by the trail sign, but after the first shelf, which was covered in quartz rocks, I realized I would be better off heading southwards and upwards at an angle. I actually ran into two hikers coming down that way and they gave me the best piece of advice. "Go around the mountain to the south and stay well below the summit ridge until you have to pop up", they said. This turned out to be the way to go.

Approaching the first shelf

Looking down from the first shelf

While taking an angled traverse is hard on the ankles, I found there were plenty of flat spots that one could traverse between to give them a bit of a break. Once I got around the mountain I could see the summit ridge stretching off into the distance. The summit of Square Top Mountain might be square, but it is far from flat. Much like fins on the back of a dragon, there are larges piles of boulders placed periodically along the spine of the ridge. These would be a tedious, mind numbing experience if taken all at once.  Don't walk that summit ridge.

Looking up at the initial  angled traverse

A close up of the tundra

As it was, a large river of talus on the southern slope made me pop up sooner than expected.  I was not worried, however, because I thought the large pile of boulders just above was the summit. Oh foolish mortal! There were at least three more false summits (e.g. dragon fins) between me and the summit. Unless you are a member of Cirque du Soliel, and can bounce effortlessly from jagged rock to jagged rock, you will find this last bit of the route time consuming.  Another good reason to wait until a sunny day!

Looking back down from the southern side of the mountain

Just below the summit ridge

Because the summit of Square Top Mountain is so long, the views are not as dramatic as you find on other peaks. You have to walk around to look over the sides. Since I never trust the weather on Guanella Pass, I decided not wander but headed down after a quick snack. This was a prudent choice...by the time I reached the car, the Gods had awoken. Woe to the few hikers I passed heading upwards towards Square Top Lakes. At least today they would be pissed at someone else.

I thought that bump on the horizon was the summit.  The summit is actually multiple bumps  ahead. 

That bump on the horizon is still not the summit.

My decent of the mountain was totally different than the ascent. Things look different coming down as well! I ended up finding some cairns and followed them but they came very close to the sheer cliff of the cirque that contains Upper Square Top Lake. Once again, the fun of bushwhacking is finding your own way. To be safe, however, I would bring along a GPS, a topo map, and a cell phone. At one point I phoned home with my GPS coordinates since no one would have a clue where to starting looking for me on the broad slopes well away from the "obvious route". 

Finally, the summit comes in view

Looking at Grays (14,270 ft) and Torreys (14,267 ft) from the summit

I saw a couple of Mountain Goats below me on the ascent and a large gorilla-sized Marmot below the lakes. I think being cuddled by an overly large marmot is painful death #238 but I will have to check the list and get back to you. 

Looking down on Murray Lake from the summit

The author on the summit

Square Top Mountain is not the first mountain I would recommend in Colorado. There are certainly many nicer ones. Mt. Flora across I-70 on Berthoud Pass is a must do. Still, if you are like me and hate the fact that there are peaks nearby that you have not visited, you will find Square Top Mountain beckoning at some point.

Heading back down

Clear Creek Falls

Clear Creek Falls is located off of Highway 149 (Silverthread Scenic Byway) between Lake City and Creede. A short trail leads to an observation point but other social trails follow along the gulch to other overlooks. This is a must do if you take this route.

Clear Creek falls 

Close up

Bachelor Loop Scenic Drive

The Bachelor Loop near Creede Colorado is a 17-mile scenic drive through mining ruins and forested plateaus.  The most interesting part of the loop is at the north end of Creede and is filled with mining ruins clinging precipitously to the hillside.  Other than some great views of the Rio Grande Valley as you descend on the downward side there is not much happening in between.  The ruins are neat however but if you don't want to do the entire drive,  you could turn around after the steep drive up past them.

Commodore Mine

Trestle used to take ore cars out of the mine

Creede was established in the late 1800s because of the Amethyst Vein (running along West Willow Creek canyon), a 4-10 ft wide vein of silver ore that occasionally reached 100 feet in width. As with all such places in Colorado, such riches resulted in mines, towns, tent cities, and colorful characters such as the card shark Poker Alice and Calamity Jane.

Amethyst Mine

These ruins of the Last Chance Mine look like they could fall down the hillside at any time.

Lots of cars were stopped here at this open meadow, which is all that remains of Bachelor City

The Commodore mine doesn't look like might now, but it has 5 different levels spread out over 200 underground miles. Located at the southernmost extent of the Amethyst Vein, it was in production from 1891 all the way to 1976!

Looking east down into the Rio Grand Valley, with Creed far below 

Looking southwest 

Further down now.  Creed is more visible.