Twin Sisters

Distance: 7.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,090 ft  – 11,430 ft
Elevation gain: 2,340 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: yes across the road at Lilly Lake
Tags: #RMNP, #coloradooutdoors

Twin Sisters viewed from Hwy 7

Twin Sisters on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park is a great trail that has elevation gain, panoramic views, and proximity to the Front Range. Its large rocky summit, with multiple piles of scree, will make you feel like you have climbed a 14er without busting a lung.

Lily Lake, located across the road from the trailhead

While in a mixed forest for most of the way, the trail does have periodic views of the Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak, and Mt. Lady Washington, which are located right across the valley. The density of the trees themselves is thin, which at least creates a sense of airiness. Finally, the entire route is strewn with angular rocks that were coated with chartreuse lichens. They are so bright, you'll be reminded of Graceland. Long live chartreuse.

Longs massif viewed from the trail. From left to right is Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft), Longs Peak (14,255 ft), and Mt. Lady Washington (13,281 ft).

Despite its daunting elevation gain, the route is not difficult. The ascent is accomplished through a long series of switchbacks with few large step-ups. Very little quadricep action is required. Flatlanders in tennis shoes were easily navigating the trail although boots with ankle support will protect you  from the small, angular rocks which can easily cause twists, particularly on the descent.

A typical section of tree "encrusted" trail

Rocks and green turf near treeline

The view from treeline looking towards the summit ridge

There is a very interesting transition near treeline when large twisted rock formations come into view. These formations are bordered by stones jutting out of the turf and by Limber Pines, which have been sculpted by the wind into bent, twisted silhouettes.

Looking back down the trail

Just beyond these trees, there is a portal into the world of sun, wind, and stone. Within the span of two footsteps you suddenly travel from a forested realm into a long bare rock field. You might want to turn around here to make sure the doorway is still there. I half expected to find a dragon perched nearby or at least an ogre or two.

Another shot looking back down the trail

It is 0.75 miles from this transition line to the summit. The views of Estes Park and beyond will make you stumble as you try to navigate the rocks and ogle the view at the same time. A long pitch along the ridge and a series of short switchbacks takes you to a large saddle surrounded by two large domes of scree. The one to the right, next to the park’s radio tower, is where most people end up. The views there of the Longs' massif will boggle the mind.

View of the summit

The summit is a great place to watch clouds form. At one point, directly over the lower dome we could actually see tendrils of air curl and wind their ways upwards only to be consumed by an even larger cloud. I have a theory about Twin Sisters. It has a large, exposed block of scree, and I wonder if the heated rocks provide extra lift near its summit. Even when I have not been on the summit, I have seen large storms form right on top of it. Who knows if this is true, but the wary hiker of Twin Sisters should get an extra early start.

View of the Longs' massif from the summit

If you have the chance to visit this trail, you won’t need your park pass but you might need a few weapons of mass destruction since it does seem to be popular with folks who look like they just stumbled out of the Winnebago. You would think that the altitude gain would deter most of these visitors, but it does not.

Looking northwest from the summit

The trailhead is located on Hwy 7 between Estes Park and Allenspark. There is a parking lot across the road at Lily Lake, which has a bathroom or you can drive directly to the trailhead up a short dirt road. Parking in this lot is more limited.

Estes Cone

Distance: 6.1 miles round trip
Elevation 9,425-11,002 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,023 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #RMNP, #coloradooutdoors

Estes Cone

Estes Cone, on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park, is a large volcanic remnant with a cap of flat, erosion resistant rock. The trail to the summit is a journey into an eerie world of twisted, lightening darkened trees. Bring poles and sturdy boots because this trail put the word "rocky" in Rocky Mountains.

While in the trees until the very end, this trail has the advantage of being close to the Denver Metro Area and in possession of some excellent views of Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak, and Mt. Ypsilon not to mention Estes Park. There is also one nice meadow crossing, one creek, and one old cabin to break up the monotony.

Rocky upper reaches of Estes Cone

The trail is easy to moderate except for the last 0.7 miles, which ascends 1000 ft straight up the cone. Here the trail switches from dirt and rock to almost entirely rock. In fact the slope and the trail look so much alike that the Rangers have interspersed cairns every 10 feet or so to guide hikers upwards. On this trip, the sky was turning dark and we felt pressured to get to the top as quickly as possible. Not the best option when trail finding.

The summit of the cone consists of four to five rocky outcroppings. The hiker can choose to climb to the highest, which is located to the southwest, or scramble up the closest. On this trip we chose this option again because of the threatening weather. The views are just as grand no matter your choice.

View from the summit

Insider Tip: When descending pay close attention to the junction between Storm Pass and the Estes Cone Trail. This junction is relatively clear going up but not obvious heading down. On the decent, there is a large pine tree blocking the view of an extremely large cairn that marks the spot. Before the tree, Storm Pass shoots off to the left so it is easy to get sucked off in the wrong direction. To continue to the Longs Peak trailhead, you have to go around the tree, around the cairn and up a trail on which the trail signs face away from the descender. Not ideal.

Everyone should climb Estes Cone at least once. The perspective gained of Meeker and Longs, which normally blend into one large massif, is enlightening. The twisted shapes of the pines on the upper slopes of the cone will have you looking for ogres while the summit does have some stellar views.

Storm brewing over Trailridge Road

There are two ways to get to Estes Cone, one is from the Longs Peak trailhead and the other from Lilly Lake trailhead via Storm Pass. The Longs Peak Trailhead is located on the west side of Highway 7 between Allenspark and Estes Park. Beware, parking is very limited fills up early (as in 1AM) in the summer mountain climbing season.

Mt. Bierstadt

Trail Length: 7 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,669-14,060 ft
Elevation gain: 2,850 ft
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Critters: Big Horn Sheep
Tags: #14er, #coloradooutdoors, #nooxygen

Left to right, Mt. Evans (14,264 ft) and Mt. Bierstadt (14,060 ft) as seen from the Square Top trail. This photo is mine. The rest in this post are courtesy of Lynn Johnson.

Mt. Bierstadt, near Georgetown CO, is one of the easiest 14K ft peaks to hike. Its proximity to Denver, and the lush views Guanella Pass make it doubly popular. Guanella Pass is notorious for sudden thunderstorms, however, so be sure to check the weather before planning your ascent.

The trail begins at the pass itself and descends into a narrow valley filled with willows. This area is boggy and depending upon the condition of the boardwalks, may be wet and slimy. Things get serious after the willows when the trail climbs up to a broad shoulder. The views here make it a worthy destination in itself for those interested in a shorter hike. The shoulder is a wide area for ideal for picnicking and people watching. A favorite pastime is holding up score cards measuring the lung capacity of climbers as they crest over the shoulder. You'll see everything from small children to trail runners using Beirstadt to train for the Leadville 100. When no one is looking, do your best Julie Andrews imitation and twirl around. At high altitude motion sickness takes on a whole new meaning.

Big Horn Sheep on the road to the pass

The more able bodied will want to continue up the trail which rises steeply into the distance. It is rocky so consider hiking poles for added stability. Insider tip: "view breaks" are a great way to catch your breath while admiring the increasingly expansive views of the Continental Divide.

Looking down on the shoulder

Climbers get a nice break on the upper ridge which is flat but full of scree. Take your time crossing. A twisted ankle at this point would make getting down a challenge. The final cone of scree is a jumble and hikers just find their way from rock to rock with little coherence.

Looking down on Square Top Lakes and Square Top Mountain

We were lucky on this trip and the weather was beautiful. We stayed on the summit for over an hour just gawking at the rolling green hills below us. I have been chased off of Guanella so many times by lightening that I have developed a neurotic paranoia about the place but this day there was barely a wisp of a cloud. I still eyed them carefully because Guanella is notorious for brewing storms at explosive rates.

Looking up at the final cone of scree

From the summit, Mt. Evans feels like it is within spitting distance and you can see all the tourists who drove up to that summit. "Look Vern there are mountain climbers over there!" With more time and a car shuttle, you can cross the saw tooth that connects the two peaks and bag two in one day. I have several friends who have done this and say it is easier than it looks and well worth doing.

View from the summit looking west.

So, for those of you who have never climbed a 14er, give Mt. Bierstadt a try. It is an easy walk up but will require you to have gotten off the couch in the last year. Some scrambling is required in the scree field so bring your gloves as well. Do it like I did and take the day off of work to avoid the crowds and meditate on why we love living in Colorado.

Ceran St. Vrain

Distance: 3.85 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,365 ft - 8,105 ft
Elevation Gain: 260 ft (gain on the trip back)
Dogs: Off Leash

St. Vrain Creek

Ceran St.Vrain near Jamestown, CO (northwest of Boulder) is a short but relaxing trail through a pleasant mixed Lodgepole and Spruce forest with lots of water action to get your Zen on. Dogs are allowed off leash, which is a blessing for those of us with hunting dogs that need to run. The trail gets its name from Ceran St.Vrain, an 1800's resident who was know for building forts along several creeks in the area.

The trailhead. There is a large parking area and a nice place to picnic near the creek off to the left.

A few yards from the trailhead is a quaint bridge over the creek

At the beginning of the trail is a primitive campground so be prepared for the intoxicating smell of camp delectables cooking over a wood fire. The trail itself is packed dirt and pine needles, a welcome respite from the rocky terrain that blesses most of the Front Range. 

There are many views of the creek from the trail

In contrast to the mountains that provide the water that fills St. Vrain Creek, the trail heads downwards for a gradual loss of 200 ft. Where the trail ends is subjective since it seems to run into a series of 4x4 roads. You'll know this because the trail widens a bit and there may be a signs for roads 801 and 252. One of these leads to Miller Rock, but finding it can be a chore. 

A typical trail section. Notice the lush vegetation and the nice soft trail.

The only downside of this trail is that it is up past Jamestown. This route is a mecca for hordes of cyclists who use the steep climbs to train for even harder events. While I am all for sharing the road, it can be unnerving to dodge and weave around these unpredictable two-wheeled demons.

The forested areas are open and appealing

To get to the trailhead, travel 5.5 miles north of Boulder on Highway 36 to Lefthand Canyon. Turn left on and drive 8.4 miles to Jamestown. Continue through the town and be sure to follow the posted speed limits. After Jamestown, the road becomes Overland Rd and will transition to dirt road 4.5 miles beyond the town. Avoid the left fork at this point and continue approximately 0.5 miles to the trailhead on the right.

Barr Lake

Distance: 9 mile loop
Elevation gain: none, flat
Dogs: Not allowed
Critters: Birds, birds birds!
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes

Distant view of birds out on Barr Lake

Barr Lake is a State Park filled with waterfowl. I went there to try out my new 500mm Canon lens. The lake was too low to get very close to the birds but the scenery made up for it. All the marsh plants were high and dry and a fall-ish rusty color. The weather was also sublime, particularly knowing that the following day it was supposed to snow!

A group of Cackling Geese (Branta hutchinsii) swim past some of their sleeping cousins [Canada Geese (Branta canadensis)]. Until recently, the Cackling Goose was thought to be a sub-species of the Canada Goose. They have shorter necks, are smaller in general, and have a dark breast.

A half of a mile from the shoreline was a small cluster of birds. These include Pelicans and Cormorants.

American Coot (Fulica americana) was a common site at the lake.

I was surprised at how built up the area is around the lake. There is one large shopping mall nearby and the ubiquitous Starbucks a few miles away for those who need their fix. It was not long ago that Barr Lake was practically "in Kansas" it was so far out on the plains. Humans are encroaching here as well.

My prized shot, a Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus) roosting in a tall Cottonwood tree. We had stood under this tree for half an hour taking pictures, walked on and met some birders who asked if we had seen the owl. We raced back and there he was. I "hoo hoo'ed" at him and he open his eye ever so slightly. From the ground and with the naked eye he looked like just part of the tree. See how his banded feathers make him blend in with the tree bark?

Bald Eagle from a mile a way. Compared with my photos of Bald Eagles from the Bird Islands Nova Scotia, this shot is particularly dull. You can walk right up to this snag however.

Female Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)

The park contains a nice nature center, which puts on educational programs. There was the typical stuffed birds and animal skins. I wrapped the fox skin around my neck and struck a naughty, aristocratic pose. Fortunately, only the ghosts of the birds lining the walls were there to poo poo my shameful behavior. The nature center also has a solarium with a nice couch overlooking an extensive bird feeder. Numerous Sparrows and Blue Jays could be seen hopping about feeding area.

Views of the Lake

The trail around the lake is a broad dirt road intermixed with side trails and board walks. While long, it is any easy walk. Since we were all loaded down with camera gear we only managed to travel 1.5 miles to a gazebo that juts out into the water. From there we saw the resident Bald Eagle on its perch a mile away. Some large deer with huge antlers could be seen cowering under the shrubbery near the eagle's nest. The closest birds were only 0.3 miles from the nature center however near a nice shaded sitting area.

Boardwalk from the Gazebo. At one point this was all over water.

Some areas of the lake are totally overgrown now

I have no idea if the water level in Barr Lake is seasonal or if drought has kept it low. For now it is better enjoyed as a broad panorama vice a photographers mecca.

Marshall Mesa

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,520 ft to 5,740 ft
Elevation Gain: 220 ft
Dogs: Off leash with Voice and Sight tag
Bathroom at the trailhead: Yes
Fees: Parking fee for non-Boulder County residents
Tags: #Boulder, #Coloradooutoors, #hiking, #dogfriendly

From Marshall Mesa, you can almost see forever

The Marshall Mesa open space just south of Boulder is one of my favorite areas. The views of the Flatirons are gorgeous and the diverse landscape is appealing in both fall and summer. Marshall Mesa itself is a broad slopping plateau filled with grasses, Cottonwood Trees, and shrubs. The Community Ditch cuts through it and in spring this ditch is filled with flowing water, perfect for fido to cool off in.

Looking east from the parking lot. The Marshall Valley trail crosses the open meadow but will eventually ascend up above the trees.

Standing on one of the ancient sandstone formations that form part of the area. Millions of years ago, this area was a beach. You can still see the waves embedded in the sands. It is a 10 foot drop off on the other side of the tree.

For hikers, the open space contains a pleasing loop that travels over the remains of a fossilized beach then up to a road with expansive views of the surrounding area including the full north-south extent of the Flatirons. Do this hike in the spring and your eye will be dazzled by how many variations of green exist in the world.

Heading across the formation to the open meadow beyond

I was hoping for gorgeous fall color on this trip, but the unseasonable freeze the week before turned all the leave brown. In spring, this meadow and the Cottonwoods that dominate it, is very pretty indeed.

There are two loops main loops in this Open Space with the option of extending your route through several spur trails, some of which connect to the trails on the west side of Hwy 93.  The route described in this post is a loop that travels eastward on the 0.8 mile Marshall Valley Trail, then 1.7 along the Community Ditch Trail, and then finally 0.5 miles down the Coal Seam Valley Trail back to the parking lot.

Map of the area

Go straight up the hill on the other side of the bridge and you can cut the route by a mile. Go left for a loop that is 3 miles long.

Looking east towards Kansas. Here the trail begins to climb upwards.

When the trail reaches it maximum elevation (~200 ft elevation gain), a spur trail heads off to the left. This is a dead end trail and dogs must be on a leash. The main trail heads to the right. Straight ahead, as you see in this picture is a lake. It is private.

A small vestige of fall color in some shrubs along the Community Ditch Trail. In spring the ditch would be filled with lazily flowing water.

The Flatirons from the Community Ditch Trail

Marshall Mesa is great for an afterwork hike, Sunday stroll, trail runs, or doggie walk. Even in January there is something to see and the stark landscape retains its charm under the deep blue skies of winter. The area is popular with mountain bikers too, who struggle up the rocky slopes for a chance to race along the flat Community Ditch Trail.

A sandstone bluff near the end of the loop. The Community Ditch Trail continues west across highway 93. That is a pleasant walk in and of itself.

Heading back down the Coal Seam Trail back to the parking lot

Like most trails near Boulder, parking is limited, but right across the road from the trailhead is a dirt lot that can be used as overflow or for non-residents who don't want to pay a parking fee.