Ptarmigan

A White-tailed Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucura) munches on Bistwort in the meadows below Handies Peak in the San Juan Mountains

Numerous lakes, trails, coffee shops, and ski runs have been named for this elusive member of the Grouse family that lives exclusively in the alpine zone.  I have only seen it twice in Colorado. Once was on Mt. Sniktau and the other was on the way to Handies Peak. Their elusiveness may have nothing to do with scarcity but more to do with their superb camouflage.

Compare the rock with the plumage of the Ptarmigan.  At a distance, would you be  able to see them?

In winter they are totally white, while in summer they are a specked brown. Once I realized I was in a flock of them,  I started looking around and they were everywhere but I had to squint and stare to see them against the talus. They eat everything from alpine wildflowers to the twigs of willows. The young start out eating insects and then move on to more tastier fare.

This Ptarmigan still has a little be of white on its underbelly.  These birds are supposed to keep their white tails.  Perhaps this is a juvenile. 

Superbly adapted to the cold, this bird had feathers on its feet and around its nostrils to keep both regions warm. Just thinking about it makes me want to get a pair of down booties!

Handies Peak from American Basin

Distance: 5.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,600 ft - 14,058 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft (net), 2,553 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 16 July, 2012
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash

The view from the summit of Handies Peak (14,058 ft)

Handies Peak is a Colorado 14er surrounded by jagged and imposing ridges forged in the fiery belly of a long forgotten volcano and finished in the frozen grip of glaciers.  It is considered by many to be the prettiest 14er, particularly via the American Basin route, which is known for its wildflowers and open meadows.  After completing this climb, I can truthfully say that this is an alpine experience par excellence.  It will leave you awe struck ... if only you can get there!

The wide and flat parking area at the far end of American Basin

Sunlight kisses American Basin.  That tongue of rock in the distance is a rock glacier. 

The journey to Handies is an adventure from start to finish.  The trailhead is located 20 miles up County Road 30 from Lake City in the San Juan mountain range.  This road, which is still advertised as passable by a 2WD vehicle is a washed out, cliff hugging, 4x4 road that will leave you exhausted by the time you finish.  The week before our trip, a huge landslide came crashing down Sunshine Peak (14,006 ft)  and wiped out huge sections of the road. These were plowed out and bumpy by the time we were there, but it just demonstrates how unpredictable these old back country roads can be.  While not technically difficult to navigate, the road possessed a razor thin margin of error given the one lane expanse and the 1,500 ft drop off waiting to consume the hapless 4-wheeler who bounced off the wrong rock.  I am not sure I would drive that road again in my truck, I would rent an ATV, which is much much smaller.

Indian Paintbrush and Bistwort create a colorful tableau 

An early trail segment

Along the way, the road will pass the Grizzly Gulch Trailhead.  You can climb Handies from this direction, but it is several miles longer.  There is a bathroom at this trailhead, which also serves Sunshine and Redcloud.  Four miles or so beyond this point is the turn off to American Basin.  This road is also 4x4 and is particularly bad just before the large trailhead. After the drive, climbing Handies was a piece of cake!

More wildflowers

Looking back down on the route

Early morning glare at the basin perpendicular to American Basin

The initial part of the route heads into the back side of American Basin, hugging the left side. Wildflowers abound here and it was difficult to keep going because I wanted to stop for every colorful tableau. With the weather pressing, there was no time to waste, however, so we pressed onwards.  At the start of the basin is a large rock glacier, which resembled a large amoeba oozing slowly downhill.  Rock glaciers are different from ice glaciers in that the water is not a solid mass, but exists between the rocks so all you see is flowing (in geologic time) rock.

Starting across the basin

Looking back down on the route

Heading up further

Looking back down on the shelf and entrance to American Basin

Before reaching the rock glacier, the trail banks to the left and climbs steeply up to the shelf (at 1.26 miles) to a cirque that is perpendicular to American Basin.  A smaller rock glacier graces its upper slopes.  The route will actually climb to the right of the basin and then down and across the rock glacier to the other side.  At the top of the route on the right hand side is Sloan Lake (at 1.6 miles and 12,941 ft), which is a destination itself.

Climbing 14ers is fun!

Crossing the rock glacier.  The trail will descend sharply and then ascend again across the glacier up the slope in the distance. 

Looking back at Sloan Lake.  The trail from the shelf to the lake is just visible in the distance. 

Once across the rock glacier, the route switchbacks steeply up the side of Handies.  Green tundra grasses and views back down the route make this segment pleasant indeed.  At the top is a saddle with a primeval view of geologic marvels clawing their way upwards from the valley below.  Is this Valhalla? Surely we are above the cares of mere mortals on such airy heights!

On the switchbacks to the final saddle

Approaching the saddle

The primeval view from the saddle

To the left is the final summit ridge.  It is smooth and steep.  Steep as in Sniktau steep.  I dug out my hiking stick and used it to anchor myself as I plodded upwards.  It was hard to turn around and admire the view.  I passed a woman coming down who was afraid of heights.  She was trembling with each baby step downwards.  I began to get nervous but the decent down this pitch but it was actually very easy, so don't let the steepness bother you.

The summit (second hill) viewed from the saddle

Heading up the summit ridge

This view makes the summit appear very close...but is it?

Heading up the steep section

The view from the summit is grandiose.  Jagged mountains abound and we had the place to ourselves, a rare treat in Colorado. Unfortunately, we had Armageddon brewing directly over us, despite our 5 am wake-up call and hardly spent any time on the summit.  I felt comfortable, and infinitely safer bolting downwards after a few hasty pictures.  Therein lies a life metaphor.  Rarely do life's struggles lead us to lasting rewards.  It is the tenuousness of any achievement that reminds us that like Handies life is more about what happens along the way.  

Looking back down from half-way to the summit

Almost there!

View from the summit

The weather held long enough for us to dawdle on the decent.  We stopped at Sloan Lake, which I will turn into a post of its own, watched Marmots frolicking amongst the wildflowers, practically stepped on a flock of Ptarmigan, and stopped to gawk at a trio of baby marmots just starting to explore their world.  By the time we reached the truck it was starting to pour.  Good timing indeed.

The author (left) and Elaine reveling in Colorado glory!

Lynn enjoys the summit

Climbing Handies is so full of view-gasms that I recommend everyone, not just 14er peak baggers, to consider this experience.  I will leave it up to you how to get to the trailhead.  A private helicopter would be my personal choice.  You can pay for the trip in what you save in post-drive therapy fees!

Back down in American Basin, a cheering squad of Frosty Ball Thistle waved us by. 

Lomax Mine

The entrance to the Lomax Mine historical area near Breckenridge

The Lomax Mine is a series of historic buildings near Breckenridge from a Gold placer hydraulic mine circa 1860.  Gold being a heavy metal tends to sink in water, so a placer mine ran water over gold bearing rocks and the gold would sink to the bottom of long sluices. A hydraulic mine is one that used large water canons to blast away the surrounding hillsides and run it through the sluices.

You can wander around the buildings or pay $10 for a tour that includes a history lesson. Iowa Hill south of town has a more extensive exhibit of this type of mining but also involves a hike. This exhibit is suitable for aged parents or small children.  

Old mining building

Plow

Indian Paintbrush near picnic tables at the back of the property

Looking back at the parking area 

Sluice Box

Hydraulic Cannon 

Close-up of the log construction

Broader view of the area

The Lomax Mine is located at 301 Ski Hill Road on the way to the Peak 9 ski lift area. From the Blue River Plaza in the center of Breckenridge, proceed north (toward Frisco) on Main Street one block to the stop light at Ski Hill Road/Lincoln Ave. Turn west (toward the mountains) onto Ski Hill Road. Proceed past the stoplight at Park Ave. and drive about 1/4 mile uphill to a Lomax Mine sign on the left and a driveway into the mine parking lot. Turn left into the parking lot.

Flatirons Vista

Distance: 3.4 mile loop
Elevation: 5,925 ft -6,105 ft
Elevation Gain: 180 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: Off leash with Boulder green tag
Date Hiked: 29 April, 2012
Fees: $5 to park if not a Boulder Co. resident
Tags: #Boulder, #osmp, #hiking

The view of the Flatirons from the Flatirons Vista Trail on an afternoon in spring.  Woe to those who have to live in Colorado! 

Flatirons Vista is a short open space trail on the border of Boulder and Jefferson Counties. It is one of my favorite trail runs, but is also a wonderful afterwork stroll with the dogs.  With expansive views of the Flatirons, open meadows, and perennial blue skies, this is a great all season hike.

The new and improved trailhead

Map of the trail system.  Note the new Prairie Vista Trail that makes a smaller loop within the larger one.

The City of Boulder has improved this area significantly in recent years.  There is a new expanded parking lot, bathroom,  additional trail (Prairie Vista), and most recently a new parking fee.  There was a time when I had this trail all to myself, but no longer.  These improvements have led to an increase in traffic, particularly mountain bikers who can connect to this trail system with Marshall Mesa via the Greenbelt Plateau.

Heading southwest on the initial segment

The trail turns westward with the Flatirons always in view

This is a loop hike, but I have always taken it counter-clockwise, starting off on the right towards the new junction of the Prairie Vista and Flatirons Vista Trails (see map).  You need to read the trail signs or you'll end up on the wrong trail.  There is a short spur that is only marked Prairie Vista heading south, so don't be confused.

The junction with the Doudy Draw Trail (right fork).  Follow this a short ways for nice views and then return to the  junction to continue on Flatirons Vista.

The route heads southwest briefly before turning westward.  The trail in this area is open and wide, as in semi-truck wide.  With minimal elevation gain, this segment is a great, although rocky run, with wonderful views of the Flatirons.

For a short ways, the Flatirons are still in view as the trail heads southwards.

At 1.3 miles is the intersection of the Doudy Draw Trail, which heads down the embankment and eventually meets up with the parking lot for the Mesa Trail off Eldorado Canyon Blvd (6.8 miles one way). There are several view points on the decent of Doudy Draw where you can't see a single sign of civilization.  On a warm summer evening after the sun has set behind the Flatirons,  this area takes on an ethereal glow as the subdued light reflects off the green meadows below.  For a half hour the world is transformed into a peaceful, otherworldly oasis.  I always imaged this is what heaven was supposed to be.

The second half of the route weaves in and out of Ponderosa Pines

After the junction, the trail enters into a broad stand of Ponderosa Pines.  For 1.2 miles the trail weaves northward until reaching a fenced boundary, which it follows closely before turning northwest.  The last 0.8 miles is through open meadow with views of the plains to the east and the rolling hills to the south.  The NREL wind farm is visible and near the trailhead there is a small pond that is perfect for quick doggie swim.

The NREL wind farm 

The trail passes right next to the far end of this small pond.

The trick to enjoying Flatirons Vista is knowing when to go.  It can be scorching hot in the middle of summer day but for most of the rest of the year the trail is delightful.  Try running it some time and you'll boost the calorie burn while still enjoying the incredible scenery.

The final pitch back to the trailhead