Sloan Lake and the American Basin Trail

Distance: 3.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,600 ft - 12,941 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,341 ft
Date Hiked: 16 July, 2012
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the trailhead: No
Tags: #hiking, #mountainlake, #coloradooutdoors, #gearguide

Sloan Lake in American Basin is nestled in one of the prettiest places in Colorado.

Sloan Lake out of American Basin in the San Juan Mountains is not the most spectacular lake in Colorado, but the journey will rock your world and twirl your planets!

Early morning at the trailhead

Columbine along the trail

The sun finally touches the rock formations at the back of the basin

American Basin, twenty miles from Lake City, is a glacial carved valley with jagged rock formations at the far end.  At the right time of year the basin is filled with wildflowers and peak baggers on their way to Handies Peak.  At the far end of the basin is a rock glacier.  Rock glaciers are different from ice glaciers in that the water is not a solid mass, but exists between the rocks so all you see is flowing (in geologic time) rock. To me it looked like a giant multi-"toed" amoeba ready to gobble us whole. 

American Basin is known for its wildflowers.  While the other hikers we met said this was  a poor year, I was hardly disappointed. 

Heading up the trail now

Larkspur 

The route travels up the left side of American Basin, gradually gaining altitude before veering to the left an onto a shelf for an adjoining basin. Another rock glacier lies in the distance and Handies Peak is off to the left.  Turn around at this point for spectacular views back down American Basin.  The rugged rocks and green tundra grasses are quintessential apline terrain.

The tongue of the rock glacier is just ahead

Looking back down on American Basin from the perpendicular shelf

The lake is on the shelf to the right.  The route will go up and over the small berm in the foreground than and then switchback up to the shelf on the berm in the middle of the image. 

Once on the shelf, the route heads straight back before suddenly switching backing up the right side of the basin. At the top is a large cairn. This monument marks the junction between Sloan Lake, which is only a 30 yards or so away and the route up Handies, which crosses the rock glacier and over to the other side of the basin.

Heading across the shelf

Almost to the top

The large cairn marks the junction of the trail to Sloan Lake,  which is just ahead, and the trail to Handies Peak. 

The volcanic nature of the San Juans is evident all around the lake, which is bordered by coarse igneous rock.  While we were visiting the lake on our return trip from Handies, we ran into a couple who hike to the lake every year.  We ran into quite a bit of wildlife on the way including Ptarmigan and baby Marmots.
 

View of the lake

Looking back down on the lake as we continued up towards Handies Peak

While I can't gush enough about this area, I must warn you that getting to the trailhead is a chore.  While maps and guidebooks say the road to American Basin is passable by a passenger car, we had trouble in our 4x4 truck.  If you really want to do this trail, I would suggest renting an ATV in Lake City.  An ATV will get you up and over the rocks but will be much thinner and shorter the better to pass other like minded individuals on the narrow shelf road.

Ptarmigan

A White-tailed Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucura) munches on Bistwort in the meadows below Handies Peak in the San Juan Mountains

Numerous lakes, trails, coffee shops, and ski runs have been named for this elusive member of the Grouse family that lives exclusively in the alpine zone.  I have only seen it twice in Colorado. Once was on Mt. Sniktau and the other was on the way to Handies Peak. Their elusiveness may have nothing to do with scarcity but more to do with their superb camouflage.

Compare the rock with the plumage of the Ptarmigan.  At a distance, would you be  able to see them?

In winter they are totally white, while in summer they are a specked brown. Once I realized I was in a flock of them,  I started looking around and they were everywhere but I had to squint and stare to see them against the talus. They eat everything from alpine wildflowers to the twigs of willows. The young start out eating insects and then move on to more tastier fare.

This Ptarmigan still has a little be of white on its underbelly.  These birds are supposed to keep their white tails.  Perhaps this is a juvenile. 

Superbly adapted to the cold, this bird had feathers on its feet and around its nostrils to keep both regions warm. Just thinking about it makes me want to get a pair of down booties!

Handies Peak from American Basin

Distance: 5.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,600 ft - 14,058 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,500 ft (net), 2,553 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 16 July, 2012
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash

The view from the summit of Handies Peak (14,058 ft)

Handies Peak is a Colorado 14er surrounded by jagged and imposing ridges forged in the fiery belly of a long forgotten volcano and finished in the frozen grip of glaciers.  It is considered by many to be the prettiest 14er, particularly via the American Basin route, which is known for its wildflowers and open meadows.  After completing this climb, I can truthfully say that this is an alpine experience par excellence.  It will leave you awe struck ... if only you can get there!

The wide and flat parking area at the far end of American Basin

Sunlight kisses American Basin.  That tongue of rock in the distance is a rock glacier. 

The journey to Handies is an adventure from start to finish.  The trailhead is located 20 miles up County Road 30 from Lake City in the San Juan mountain range.  This road, which is still advertised as passable by a 2WD vehicle is a washed out, cliff hugging, 4x4 road that will leave you exhausted by the time you finish.  The week before our trip, a huge landslide came crashing down Sunshine Peak (14,006 ft)  and wiped out huge sections of the road. These were plowed out and bumpy by the time we were there, but it just demonstrates how unpredictable these old back country roads can be.  While not technically difficult to navigate, the road possessed a razor thin margin of error given the one lane expanse and the 1,500 ft drop off waiting to consume the hapless 4-wheeler who bounced off the wrong rock.  I am not sure I would drive that road again in my truck, I would rent an ATV, which is much much smaller.

Indian Paintbrush and Bistwort create a colorful tableau 

An early trail segment

Along the way, the road will pass the Grizzly Gulch Trailhead.  You can climb Handies from this direction, but it is several miles longer.  There is a bathroom at this trailhead, which also serves Sunshine and Redcloud.  Four miles or so beyond this point is the turn off to American Basin.  This road is also 4x4 and is particularly bad just before the large trailhead. After the drive, climbing Handies was a piece of cake!

More wildflowers

Looking back down on the route

Early morning glare at the basin perpendicular to American Basin

The initial part of the route heads into the back side of American Basin, hugging the left side. Wildflowers abound here and it was difficult to keep going because I wanted to stop for every colorful tableau. With the weather pressing, there was no time to waste, however, so we pressed onwards.  At the start of the basin is a large rock glacier, which resembled a large amoeba oozing slowly downhill.  Rock glaciers are different from ice glaciers in that the water is not a solid mass, but exists between the rocks so all you see is flowing (in geologic time) rock.

Starting across the basin

Looking back down on the route

Heading up further

Looking back down on the shelf and entrance to American Basin

Before reaching the rock glacier, the trail banks to the left and climbs steeply up to the shelf (at 1.26 miles) to a cirque that is perpendicular to American Basin.  A smaller rock glacier graces its upper slopes.  The route will actually climb to the right of the basin and then down and across the rock glacier to the other side.  At the top of the route on the right hand side is Sloan Lake (at 1.6 miles and 12,941 ft), which is a destination itself.

Climbing 14ers is fun!

Crossing the rock glacier.  The trail will descend sharply and then ascend again across the glacier up the slope in the distance. 

Looking back at Sloan Lake.  The trail from the shelf to the lake is just visible in the distance. 

Once across the rock glacier, the route switchbacks steeply up the side of Handies.  Green tundra grasses and views back down the route make this segment pleasant indeed.  At the top is a saddle with a primeval view of geologic marvels clawing their way upwards from the valley below.  Is this Valhalla? Surely we are above the cares of mere mortals on such airy heights!

On the switchbacks to the final saddle

Approaching the saddle

The primeval view from the saddle

To the left is the final summit ridge.  It is smooth and steep.  Steep as in Sniktau steep.  I dug out my hiking stick and used it to anchor myself as I plodded upwards.  It was hard to turn around and admire the view.  I passed a woman coming down who was afraid of heights.  She was trembling with each baby step downwards.  I began to get nervous but the decent down this pitch but it was actually very easy, so don't let the steepness bother you.

The summit (second hill) viewed from the saddle

Heading up the summit ridge

This view makes the summit appear very close...but is it?

Heading up the steep section

The view from the summit is grandiose.  Jagged mountains abound and we had the place to ourselves, a rare treat in Colorado. Unfortunately, we had Armageddon brewing directly over us, despite our 5 am wake-up call and hardly spent any time on the summit.  I felt comfortable, and infinitely safer bolting downwards after a few hasty pictures.  Therein lies a life metaphor.  Rarely do life's struggles lead us to lasting rewards.  It is the tenuousness of any achievement that reminds us that like Handies life is more about what happens along the way.  

Looking back down from half-way to the summit

Almost there!

View from the summit

The weather held long enough for us to dawdle on the decent.  We stopped at Sloan Lake, which I will turn into a post of its own, watched Marmots frolicking amongst the wildflowers, practically stepped on a flock of Ptarmigan, and stopped to gawk at a trio of baby marmots just starting to explore their world.  By the time we reached the truck it was starting to pour.  Good timing indeed.

The author (left) and Elaine reveling in Colorado glory!

Lynn enjoys the summit

Climbing Handies is so full of view-gasms that I recommend everyone, not just 14er peak baggers, to consider this experience.  I will leave it up to you how to get to the trailhead.  A private helicopter would be my personal choice.  You can pay for the trip in what you save in post-drive therapy fees!

Back down in American Basin, a cheering squad of Frosty Ball Thistle waved us by.