Day 5: Mackinac Bridge and Island

Main street. The fort can be see poking above the buildings.

Everyone we talked to about Michigan said we had to visit Mackinac (pronounced Mack-in-ahhhh) Island. While touristy, they said it was a unique experience. No cars are allowed on the island and the tourists get around in horse drawn carriages and on bicycles. The exclusion of cars is a less than successful attempt to keep the island locked in a Victorian era. I am not sure why people romanticize that era. Women were trundled up in corsets, certainly could not vote, and lord help us, but there were no feminine hygiene products. Give me the future any day. I am anxiously waiting for the Enterprise transporter to whisk me off to Paris for dinner and give me the perfect body while at it! While horses have a smaller carbon footprint compared to a gas-guzzling, car-smashing Hummer, they do stink, which definitely intrudes upon the romantic air the island would like to project to the outside world.


Driving over the Mackinac Bridge


Shepler's Ferry
Before heading to the island, we decided to drive over the Mackinac Bridge, which is the largest suspension bridge in the world. This was a cheap thrill but the views from the bridge made the $2 toll worth it.


Main street heading east. Park on the left is just below the fort
Being a former Naval Officer, I was really looking forward to the ferry ride to the island. What is nice about the place we were staying was the fact that they handled all of our luggage so we did not have to worry about getting it to the hotel. We found out later that we paid a hefty $12 per person, regardless whether we had bags or not for this privilege. It took about 20 minutes to cross to the island and cost $17 per person round trip. That was with my military discount, so you’ll pay slightly more. I did enjoy being out on the water and seeing the Grand Hotel come into view.

(Left: One of the ubiquitous fudge shops. Most of the store clerks were young kids who were less then friendly. ) There are four major attractions on the island, the Grand Hotel, which I will cover in detail in my next post, the main shopping drag, the bike route around the island, and the fort. We managed to do all of these things in a day and a half. Frankly, the only one worth doing was the Grand Hotel. We had actually planned on staying there but a huge convention had booked all the rooms. This was probably for the best because the rates at the grand hotel are $300 per person per night. That would have been $900 per night for three of us. Not many places in the world are worth that kind of money. That price did include breakfast and dinner. The pictures of the rooms I found on the Internet were also very unappealing…more of that kitschy Victorian stuff. Still, as you will hear in my next post, the Grand Hotel is THE attraction on the island. Don’t bother going to the island if you are not considering staying there or at a bare minimum spending a lot of time there.


The famously photographed limestone arch. The hike up is short and the views very nice. The carriage tours take the less active visitors there directly.


View of Lake Huron from the arch
The main shopping drag turned out to be surprisingly short and very monochromatic. The stores consist of Fudge shops and more fudge shops and T-shirt joints. I was expecting something a little more upscale to be honest.


Walkway up to the fort. We wanted to have a hot drink at the Fort Mackinack cafe. You have to pay admission to the fort to each there. The guide books say this cafe is in the lower level which is misleading because that implies that is below this walkway. It is not. There are two "levels" within the fort itself.
Renting a bike and cruising the island would normally be a very pleasant diversion but on our day, it was butt-numbing cold and I was chilled through despite my many layers. My two companions proclaimed me to be a total wimp since they did not seem bothered by the weather at all. It costs $35 a day to rent a bike and the ride around the island is only 8 miles. There are other interior routes, but because I was begging for something hot to drink we opted for the fort vice a mono-speed climb over the interior hills and dales. As such we really did not get our money’s worth that day, but I can image that on a spring or summer day, such a jaunt would be idyllic.


There are three ferry lines that service the island. This one shoots out a jet. They are easy to spot transiting the straight.
I had received a Navy fix on the ferry ride over but also received an Army fix at the fort, which has a commanding view of the waterfront. Alas, we did not have nearly enough time to spend at the fort because we wanted to catch the $42 lunch buffet at the Grand (we missed it), but I did get to see the Officer’s Quarters and the cool animatronic figures depicting the attack in 1812 (shudder but they surrendered w/o a shot being fired). I don’t know what is wrong with the Army today. Back then, the fort was commanded by a 1LT, who made enough money to hire a small platoon of servants to keep house for him and his family. When I was a LTJG/1LT I was sleeping on an air mattress because I could not afford a real one. There is a large and impressive museum as well that we breezed through. You could easily spend several hours there if military and early American history interests you.

The rest of that first day was spent at the Grand Hotel, which I will cover in my next post.


Lighthouse viewed from the western side of Main street. Note the handles of all the bikes.
I suppose everyone needs to visit Mackinac Island at least once, but in retrospect I wish we had stayed near Munising. There was much more to do in that area. As crowded as it was on the Island in October, I would hate to see the mobs in the summer.

Day 3: Munising Falls

Munising Falls from the right lookout
On Day 3 of our trip, it was raining rather steadily, so rather than head out for a long hike we decided to hit a few car friendly sights. The first of these was Munising Falls.


The beginning of the trail
Nestled in a damp canyon infested with ferns and other water loving plants, Munising Falls is a pleasant destination in its own right. Around 50 feet in height, it dribbles water over a large sandy precipice. At one point, you were allowed to walk behind the falls, which would have been pleasant indeed. Now, the National Park Service limits the views to boardwalks on either side.



The boardwalk on the right hand side of the trail

Coming from Colorado, the dangers associated with walking behind these falls would have been minuscule compared to the western approach to Mt. Quandary;. The insurance weenies, who have probably never left their well padded offices, must have had something to do with this. Given that no one was around, I was sorely tempted to BREAK THE LAW and do it anyway. Dang it, but I am too good of a Soldier to, some might say too brainwashed, to be so brazen.

Munising Falls from the right

So, if you are near Munising or are planning a Marathon hike through Pictured Rocks, take an extra half hour and visit Munising Falls. Its idyllic setting won't disappoint.

Day 1: Lake of the Clouds Overlook Porcupine Mountains, Michigan

Lake of the Clouds. The Escarpment trail heads off to the left and parallels the lake on the level of the overlook.

Lake of the Clouds is the most photographed section of the Porkies. We were really looking forward to it because of this. The reality was not a phenomenal as the pictures make it out to be. I am not sure why this is. It may be the mob of people who drive up to overlook, or it may be that compared to Presque Isle, it just wasn’t as interesting.

We had planed on hiking the Escarpment Trail, which departs from the overlook. The trail was in the trees, however, and spoiled Coloradans as we are; we were in the mood for the wide-open spaces after, oh horror, being in the trees for half a day! So instead of lingering and hiking, we decided to head down to the lake shore and revel in Lake Superior. My Visions of Lake Superior post have the photos from our drive along the shoreline.


Big Carp River viewed from the Lake of the Clouds overlook.

If you go, the Lake of the Clouds is 10 miles up M-107 from the entrance to the park. The road dead ends at the overlook, which is a very broad chunk of uneven rock that some people had trouble navigating. I overheard two older gentlemen comment after walking the 100 yards to the view that it was well worth the effort. Everything is relative and for those who cannot get out into the woods, viewing the Lake of the Clouds will be a memorable experience.

Day 1: East and West Presque Isle River Trails (Porcupine Wilderness State Park)

Distance: 2.3 miles RT
Elevation: 602-802 ft
Elevation Gain: 200 ft

(Left: Detail of Manabezho Falls viewed from the East River Trail)

The Presque Isle area of the Porcupine Mountains is by far the most scenic and the most interesting. The Presque Isle River flows through an area of Nonesuch Shale, which has resulted in waterfalls, unusual rock crenelations, and in summer a wicked set of rapids. The crenelations are caused by rocks that have swirled in the rapids, carving out deep, perfectly curvaceous, holes in the rock. The water flows over these areas in a stunning manner. The shale itself is interesting to behold. Like fossilized Baklava, it is easy to see the rock’s thousands of layers. Nonesuch Shale was formed at the bottom of a lakebed 1 Billion years ago.



Shoreline of Lake Superior where Presque Isle River empties into the lake


Rocks along the Lake Superior shoreline


Crenelations in rock


Small rapids where you cross from east to west
The east/west river trail is a short and easy loop that can be taken in either direction. We chose to cross the river and head east side first. Before heading into the trees, we walked down to the lake and admired all blue water, clear skies, and interesting rocks along the shore. Little did we know that this would be the only sunny day on our entire trip.



The trail actually crosses the river along the rocks. Blue daubed of paint point the way.


A carved rock channel where the river no longer runs

There are three major falls on this short hike, Manabezho, Manido, and Newadaha. Manabezho is rather famous, appearing on coffee mugs, placements, and other tourist paraphernalia throughout the area.



Manabezho Falls from the East River Trail



Manabezho Falls from the West River Trail
The East River trail winds through the trees with oblique views of the falls. There are numerous social trails that lead to viewing spots. Some of these were very steep, slippery with mud, and crisscrossed with tree roots. The East River Trail ends at the road. You cross over a bridge, which provides an expansive view of the river itself, and then head off into the trees again. This side of the loop is called the West River Trail.



Nawadaha Falls



View of Presque Isle River from the bridge

The falls are more directly visible from the West River Trail. In several locations, the trail becomes a series of boardwalks, stairways, and viewing platforms. No root scrambling here.



Close up of the Nonesuch Shale with the river in the background
All in all the Presque Isle trail has it all, a cool forest, fascinating rock formations, picturesque waterfalls, and lots of moss (not something we see a lot in Colorado). If you journey to the Porkies, start your sojourn there.

Day 1: Summit Peak Trail Porcupine Wilderness State Park

Distance: 0.5 miles
Elevation: 1,678 - 1,978 ft
Elevation Gain: 300 ft.


View from the upper viewing platform
Summit Peak is 20 miles in from Silver City. It is a short hike of only 0.5 miles. Don’t bypass this trail for that reason oh seasoned hikers. The view is well worth swallowing your pride and strolling with the tourists.



Color at the trailhead

It starts out in the trees and ascends quickly uphill before transitioning to a series of boardwalks and stairs. There is an intermediate viewing platform, which is very nice, but the view from the final wooden tower will knock your socks off.



Maple leaves on the trail

I was schizophrenically alternating between jumping up and down like a child on Christmas day and pausing reverently to gaze if not drool over Mother Nature’s bounty. In the distance you could see the deep blue of Lake Superior. Out on the horizon was an ore carrier. We were able to see several of those up close on our trip later in the week to Sault St. Marie.




View from the lower viewing platform
The first hike we went on in the Porkies was near the Lake and so the colors there had yet to appear. We learned later that the areas near the lake turn last because it is warmer. Warmer?!! I beg to differ. A tree might have found the shore warmer, but we certainly didn’t.

Day 1: Visions of Lake Superior

Sunrise on the first day. Lovely but cold
Who ever called Lake Superior a lake was smoking crack! That body of water is an inland sea and cranky one at that. On this first day, the waves were steady and calm but within three days they would be tumultuous and downright dangerous.


Afternoon near the cabin we rented


White Tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus). One of the few animals we saw. Considering that it was hunting season I was lucky to chase these two down.
If you had plopped me down on this western shore of the lake without my knowing it, I would declare I was in the Pacific Northwest somewhere. The water is dang cold, the shoreline is rugged, and driftwood decorates the beaches.


Canadian Geese along the shore


Geese take flight
There is something soothing about being on or near the water. I don’t know if all those water molecules are resonating with my water-balloon like (ok, say it water retaining…) cells or if all that coolness calms my hot-blooded Leo personality. Since water is almost always in motion, perhaps I am simply living vicariously through it and allowing my perpetual-motion-machine of a body to stop for a change. Either way, it was hard not to just linger near the shore and watch the endless waves grapple with eternity on the slopping sands.


Waves lap the shore

Vacation in the Upper Penisula of Michigan

Click on the image if you want to see the major locations from the trip.
I, and two friends, just returned from a week long trip to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. We started in the far western side near Silver City, migrated to Shelter Bay near Munising, stayed on Mackinac Island, and cruised up to Sault (pronounced “soo”) St. Marie.

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan is a rarely visited track of hard wood forest that is bordered on the north by Lake Superior and the south by Wisconsin and Lake Michigan. It is sparsely populated, contains only a couple larger urban centers, but contained some of the best kept roads I have seen anywhere. This is amazing considering their seriously harsh winters. The people were amazingly friendly and went out of their way to assist us in our travels. One of my friends grew up in the Midwest and indicated this was the norm. I have a new respect for Midwest values!

We chose the UP for the fall color. I have never been to an area of the country with hard woods and the UP’s color display did not disappoint. More than one scream was elicited by the vibrant red maples, which were just hitting their peak.

The primary airport in the UP is south of Marquette. The flight arrived at 6:00 pm and it was a two-hour drive to Silver City. We were advised to pick up our groceries near Marquette because the infrastructure was limited in Silver City. This was good advice and I wish we had also picked up supplies to cook dinner because there was only one restaurant in Silver City and its food less than pleasant. It was not until our last night in Marquette that we found a wine bar (Latitudes) that not only had a marvelous wine selection but also great food and service that exceeded even Midwest standards. After a week of unremarkable repasts, Latitudes was like stumbling onto Shangri-La, wholly unexpected, and an oasis in the wilderness.

Bordering Lake Superior, the air in the UP is damp and windy. Even though we had brought lots of winter-level layers, there were several days where we were butt-numbing cold. I can’t imagine what it would feel like in February. There was a 3-day gale while we were there, which made Lake Superior rage. Tell me this is not an ocean? I kept calling it that. It did rain during this period but not enough to prevent us from getting out and hiking. It did prevent long sojourns on the beach or on the decks of our cute Michigan cabins.

It was hunting season while we were there and every creature from the lowest newt to the mighty black bear was in hiding. We saw a few birds, a bunch of bald eagles, and a couple of deer and that was it. There are statues of Moose everywhere but very few real ones. I think their existence is anecdotal.

The natives of the UP call themselves Yoopers. There are independent, proud Americans and they should be. It takes a hearty soul to live there. We ran into one gal who said she moved to Marquette because there was not enough snow in Wisconsin!




I am working on my photos from the trip and will post them hike by hike, drive by drive. Stay tuned.

Index of Posts:

• Visions of Lake Superior

• Summit Peak: Porcupine Wilderness

• Presque Isle River Trails: Porcupine Wilderness

• Lake of the Clouds: Porcupine Wilderness

• Drive to Copper Harbor

• Woods around Shelter Bay

• Munising Falls

• Miner's Castle and Beach: Picture Rocks National Lakeshore

• Hike to Chapel Falls, Lake, Rock, and Beach: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

• Mackinac Bridge and Island

• Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island

• Sault St. Marie Lock Tour