Dolores River Canyon Hike

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,000 ft - 5,100 ft
Elevation Gain: 100 ft (net) probably 300 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash

The scenic Dolores River travels over 500 miles through Colorado, cutting canyons as it goes. The hike out of Bedrock, CO is an easy way to explore this unique topography.

Thought that Arizona has a monopoly on cool looking red canyons? Think again! The western part of the state is crisscrossed by rivers that have carved deep, winding slots through millions of years of sedimentary accumulations.

Looking up the canyon from where we parked at 38°17.742/108°53.884. The first cliff in the distance is the sharp right turn that is 0.87 miles way.

Looking back up the road we drove down toward the entrance to the canyon. The cliffs bordering the northern end of the Paradox Valley are clearly visible in the distance.

The hike along the Dolores River from Bedrock to the junction of the Le Sal creek will take you into the heart of this area and will let you immerse yourself in the red desert dust, sagebrush, and towering cliffs. While WAY out of the way, this is a must do hike for anyone serious about exploring the state.

The flow within the Dolores River is controlled upstream by a dam. Usually just a trickle, the authorities release water at certain times of the year for agriculture and rafting.

We have just made the sharp right turn at 0.87 and are heading further up the canyon. The slot in the center of the picture is our destination.

Bedrock is located up the stunning Paradox Valley on highway 90 between Naturita and the Utah border. The only landmark for this once populated town is the old Bedrock store, now closed, that marks the turn off towards the boat ramp for the Dolores River. We were surprised at how large the parking area was and how full it was given our isolation. The cars were for rafters, however, and not hikers.

The geology of the area is the primary appeal. Ancient sand dunes and river beds form sequential layers of various colored rocks of Triassic and Jurassic periods. The most prominent is the Wingate Formation, formed from dunes around 200 million years ago.

Near the deep stream bed that is reach at 2.0 miles, the ground was filled with layers that were obvious ancient mud beds, which give it this purple color.  This part of the trail was littered with bright teal fragments.

Past the boat ramp, the road travels up a short hill and splits into several directions. It took us a bit to find the road that continues down into the canyon. Be advised, this is a high clearance 4x4 road only. With our truck we managed to get 1.7 miles beyond the split but this entailed gingerly traveling over several large boulders and along a highly eroded shelf. We managed to drive down to a spot with plenty of turn around room, but a couple of jeeps in that area would have made it more complicated.

Looking down into the dry stream bed with its many layers of rocks. Just a few weeks prior to this hike, I hiked to Linville Falls in North Carolina. There I saw similar geology but active water. The contrast was startling.

The trail is close to the river at times and further away at others.

The route follows an old road and is very easy to follow. At times it is close to the river and at times farther away. We were doing this on a hot day in May and drank at least 2 liters of very hot water (the place were staying at had no ice). By the end I was craving an ice cold beer (something I rarely drink), so plan accordingly.

Near the end of the trail, is a large series of boulders that obviously fell from the side of the cliff. Some are upright (e.g. layers are parallel to the ground) and some are on their sides (layers exposed). The one containing the petroglyphs was quite obvious. It is close to the trail and there is a large National Park Service sign pointing them out. What we did not find was the dinosaur tracks that are supposedly on the back side of on of the boulders that is on its side.

It was hard to pick a picture that typifies the cliffs in the area. The reality they surround you on both side and hog the distances.

Some milestones along the way include the sharp right turn at 0.87 miles, a traverse across an old stream bed at 2.0 miles, Indian petroglyphs at 2.5 miles and the junction with the Le Sal Creek at 3.0 miles (our GPS when nuts at this point because the last part is under a cliff shelf and the GPS lost its signal). It looks like one could continue up the Le Sal a way, but the trail descended directly into the willows surrounding the creek, so I suspect the route would be a sloggy one.

The view looking up Le Sal Creek. You can see the trail fading off into the distance.
Topo map of the area. Hwy 90 is visible in the upper right and the Le Sal Creek in the lower left. The sharp 90° turn is noticeable where the river passes close to a sharp point in the relief. The scale and varied nature of the cliffs is also discernible form the map.

Rabbit's Ear Trail

Distance: 5 miles round trip (out and back to the overlook), 6 miles round trip (if you do the loop)
Elevation: 5,000 ft -5,700 ft
Elevation Gain: 700 ft (net), 1,347 ft (cumulative)
Dogs: Off leash
Date Hiked: 26 May 2011
Bathroom at Trailhead: No

The skeleton of a Utah Juniper stands guard over the vista of the Colorado River on the Rabbit's Ear Trail

The Rabbit's Ear Trail near Fruita, CO and the Utah border is a semi-desert hike to a river vista that will make you drop your jaw and find a rock and gaze stupefied into the distance. Not as easy as it looks, the route travels up and down humps of a ridge until it reaches a plateau 700 ft above the trailhead. From this point on, the trail is flat and the going is soft and easy.

The trailhead with its kiosk

An early trail segment with a smooth path and Sagebrush in the distance

Rabbit's Ear is part of the Rabbit Valley Recreation Area located at exit 2 on I-70 near the Utah border. While the main trails of Rabbit Valley can be filled with ATVers, Rabbit's Ear, 4 miles back west up a dirt road, is for hikers only. We had the entire place to ourselves.

Utah Juniper (Juniperus osteosperma) dots the landscape as clouds hang over the distant western plateaus.

Looking west into Utah. That is I-70 in the distance.

The terrain is rocky with occasional Utah Junipers, tufts of grass, Yellow Rabbitbrush, clumps of the unusual Mormon Tea, and since we did this hike in May, the occasional wildflower.

Desert Paintbrush (Castilleja angustifolia variety dubia) likes hot, dry, sandy soils. It blooms in the desert in early spring. Don't confuse it with Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja miniata), which is found in more alpine settings.

A glimpse of the long ridge ahead. Our destination is the lump on the far right.

The Rabbit's Ear Mesa, whose shape gives the area its name, overlooks the Colorado River as it winds its way through several canyon systems. The sedimentary striations of long lost sand dunes are clearly visible from the trails many vista points. To the east the Book Cliffs and Grand Mesa can be seen in the haze.

Ginger enters the slot canyon at 1.0 miles

The trail traverses both rock and dirt as it climbs steadily higher.

I found myself stopping frequently on this trail. Not only were there numerous critters, plants, and vistas to photograph, but this was the first hike of the season after being laid up all winter with a foot injury and I was sucking wind more than I would like to admit.

Another trail segment heading up through Utah Juniper

A steeper segment

Some mileage points to guide your journey include a small slot canyon at 1 mile, the final stretch to the top of the mesa at 1.36 miles, and 2.3 miles to the best views. The trail does continue around in wide circle past our stopping point but we were doing this in the heat of the day and decided not to take the longer route back (6 miles round trip versus 5 miles round trip). As it was this trail was rougher than I should have been doing first time out of the gate.

Looking down on the Colorado River and colorful rocks of ancient sand dunes

There were several specimens of the Claret Cup Cactus (Echinocereus uspenskii) blooming along the trail. It typically grows in clumps in rocky open areas between 4,000 and 9,000 ft.

At our stopping point, one is gazing down into Ruby Canyon, which has resulted in this trail to be called the Ruby Canyon Overlook in several prominent hiking guides. In the distance is the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness Area and the entrance to Mee Canyon. Further away are Utah's Le Sal Mountains with their snowy peaks and the broad expanse of the Uncompahgre Plateau, which we planned to drive around the following day.

The view to die for. The Colorado River as it winds through Ruby Canyon on the way to Utah. Tiny rafts dot the river. The snowy peaks of the La Sal Mountains in Utah are visible in the distance.

Heading back down at the edge of the mesa

We could see several large rafts floating serenely down the river. I couldn't help but wonder what the canyon looked like from that level. Certainly, the towering walls must have been majestic indeed.

A photo of rocks, lichens, and a rail tunnel in the distance

A close up of what looks like the Red Crust Lichen (Caloplaca trachyphylla). Lichens are actually two organisms. A fungi and an algae living together in a symbiotic relationship. The algae provides food and the fungi provides the home. They are common throughout Colorado. The Egg Yolk Lichen is another favorite.

There are two common lizards on the western slope that can be hard to tell apart. The Plateau Lizard (Sceloporus undulatus) and the Sagebrush Lizard (Sceloporus graciosus). If I had to guess, I would say the former. These lizards feed on insects, primarily grasshoppers, moths, crickets etc.

If you are in the Grand Junction Area and are looking for a short hike with major payoffs, this hike if for you. Just bring plenty of water and be prepared for changing weather conditions. This is snake country as well, so look before you sit or place your hands on any rocks. We did not see any snakes, but the lizards were out in force, so I know the snakes were out there too.

A close up of Mormon Tea (Ephedra nevadensis). This unusual plant has long, jointed needles. It is highly prized for various medicinal properties.

A parting shot of the river and desert beyond

Roxborough State Park: Fountain Valley Loop

Distance: 2.3 mile loop
Elevation: 6,280 ft - 6,100 ft
Elevation Gain: 180 ft
Dogs: Not permitted, even on leash
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Date Hiked: 9 April 2011

Looking at the dramatic red rocks of Roxborough State Park as a thunderstorm builds in the distance

An afternoon stroll on the Fountain Valley Loop in Roxborough State Park south of Denver is a road trip into the depths of geologic time as well as a wonder to the senses. There is nothing that makes Colorado more like Colorado than red rocks and blue skies.

Looking south through the Fountain Formation from the Fountain Valley Overlook on the west side of the loop. Barren Gamble Oaks shroud the valley while a prominent hump of the Dakota Formation can be seen in the hazy distance.

A topographical map of the area. The Fountain Formation is to the left followed by the Lyons Formation and the Dakota Formation. The Fountain Valley Loop is depicted on the map as well.

The Fountain Valley Loop begins and ends at the visitors center and contains two overlooks with expansive views of the Fountain Formation. The trail is not flat, but is well manicured and easy on the feet.

Looking at the Fountain Formation across a wide meadow

On this trip, the trees were still barren and gray, which made the oxidized rocks stand out even more sharply. If you are like me, however, and get over stimulated by cool rock formations, it won't matter what time of year you go, because the main attraction at Roxborough is rock and lots of it.

Looking up at the Lyons Overlook and Lyons Formation from the Fountain Trail

The Fountain Formation is just one of three formations in the park but the undisputed star of the show. Like giant fins of prehistoric sharks, the blades of red sandstone dominate the scenery. Formed from the eroded sands of the ancestral Rocky Mountains, these rocks have been uplifted to pleasing 60° angle and eroded by wind and rain into soft curvaceous shapes. Isn't geology grand?

Looking back down the loop at the Persee House, a man who thought to turn the area into a resort. The house is open for tours on select days of the week. Call the park for info. The hogback of the Lyons formations is quite obvious directly behind the house.

Not unique to the park, protrusions of this formation can been seen periodically from Boulder to Colorado Springs. It never fails to impress. Check out Mathew Winters Park near the Red Rocks Amphitheater for a pleasant hike through similar protrusions.

Heading up the east side of the loop

The aptly named Lyons Overlook, on the right side of the loop, stands atop the Lyons Formation, which is formed from Permian age wind blown deposits. Its white sandstone contrasts sharply against the red sandstone.

The narrow trail through Gamble Oaks that leads to the Lyons Overlook

To the east of the Lyons Formation is the Dakota Hogback of Cretaceous "my what a lovely snack you would be" fame. The road into the park traverses the east side of this formation and then cuts through it to the parking area. Dinosaur Ridge near Morrison is good place to walk along this formation.

Looking south from the Lyons Overlook. A small Ponderosa Pine clings to the cliff.

If you are one of those people bored with rocks (as if), don't forget to look for one of the 145 species of birds in the park as well as Mule Deer.

Looking north from the Lyons Overlook

Roxborough State Park is a Colorado classic. The fact that even people with disabilities can get access to the amazing geology contained within is an added plus. Locals...you have no excuse. Bring a friend the next time they are in town.

A slab of white Lyons Formation with the monoliths of the Fountain Formation in the distance. I actually took this picture up side down. I was sitting on a bench and bending over to stretch my back when this interesting alignment came into view.

Castlewood Canyon Hike

Distance: 6.4 mile loop
Elevation: 6,631 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,191 ft (cumulative)
Dogs: On leash only (State Park)
Critters: Rattlesnakes (warm weather obviously)
Date Hiked: 13 November 2010
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes

Standing on the east rim of Castlewood Canyon. Which monolith will fall next?

Many locals never realize that eastern Colorado is filled with mysterious canyons cut into the soft rock by long forgotten rivers. Filled with interesting rock formations, petroglyphs, or dinosaur tracks, these canyons make for interesting hiking, particularly in the shoulder seasons. Castlewood Canyon State Park, southeast of Denver, is one such canyon that is relatively close to the metro area.

Thanks to my friend and hike leader Andy who gave me this image of route that he captured on his Garmin GPS. I need to learn to do this!

Starting out on the Lake Gulch Trail

The particular features of Castlewood Canyon include cool rock formations, remnants from a devastating 1933 flood that flooded downtown Denver, and several distinct ecosystems.

Looking down into the valley that was once Lake Louise. Note the Cottonwoods below. They signify the presence of water.

There are really two canyons in the park that form a slightly stretched bow tie. On this trip we walked a little over 6 miles in a figure eight around the bow tie. The route also went up and down with half our trip being on the rim and half along the creek.

Crossing Cherry Creek on some boulders. There is a bridge farther up for the feint of heart.

Looking back across the creek for a more natural view.

Our route began on the Lake Gulch trail just past the Canyon Point Parking Area. We walked along the top of the rim to a view of the valley that was once Lake Louise. Ranch land today, the valley looked lovely with a light dusting of snow glistening in the sun.

Standing on the eastern side of the dam ruins. You can see the Creek Bottom (G) Trail far below.

The route descended to the valley floor and then crossed Cherry Creek on a series of boulders. Now on the Rimrock trail, we passed the remains (at 1.18 miles) of the dam built in 1890. The dam broke in 1930 and flooded downtown Denver. The destruction of the water made as it gouged it way forward is still visible today.

The only steep section of the route was heading up the Rimrock trail to the eastern rim.

Just past the ruins, the Rimrock Trail quickly ascends (at 1.35 miles) to the top of canyon. This area is a flat plateau filled with smooth rocks and coniferous trees. There are several places where the hiker can get a glimpse of the rocks as they are splitting away from the canyon sides. In the summer, this area bakes in the sun and Rattlesnakes rule.

Looking west just after reaching the top of the rim

Our decent near the end of the canyon (at 2.72 miles) was precipitous because ice from the recent snowfall had melted into the nooks and carnies, making the entire route slippery. From this point we traveled across a bridge (at 3.23 miles) and along the Creek Bottom (G) Trail to a small waterfall (at 4.26 miles) and then back to the dam (at 5.11 miles).

A typical section of the eastern rim. Ponderosa Pines and Junipers dominate. Can't you just picture a rattlesnake curled up on the round rock?

Looking northwest towards the city of Parker

We stayed low as we switched to the other side of the bow tie and the Inner Canyon (K) Trail. This route followed the sunny side of canyon, which is filled with sun-loving Gambel Oaks (Quercus gambelii). The Gambel Oak loves thin, rocky, and alkaline soils. You find them all over Mesa Verde National Park and the four corners region of Colorado.

A nice view showing a hillside of tumbled rocks. Geology is not stagnant. We will be walking along the creek below on the return route.

In stark ecological contrast, the other side of the Inner Canyon was covered in shade and moisture-loving Douglas Firs (Pseudotsuga menziesii) and snow, snow, snow. While we basked in the "heat", we marveled at winter on the other side

The waterfall part way up the Creek Bottom Trail is packed with bathers in the summer. The landscape, including the sandstone bluffs on the left was carved by flood of '33.

Near the end of the Inner Canyon is a bridge where we finally crossed over to the snowy side. We crossed a bridge and stepped through the looking glass into a different world. Was this Narnia or Never Never Land? Every branch was coated with huge clumps of snow that looked more like a movie set than reality. From the bridge, it is a quick jaunt up the side of the canyon to our starting point (at 6.4 miles).

Looking back down the Inner Canyon at all the rocks.

Castlwood Canyon State Park is a local gem that you need to try. It can be dry and stark in the winter, brutally hot in the summer, and stunning in the spring and fall. On this trip, Denver had received it first light snowfall, and the contrasts made the area very appealing.

Crossing into winter. The leafless Gamble Oaks and rock cliffs are stark but dry. The northern side of the canyon is covered in snow.

If you liked this trail check out Spruce Mountain near Castle Rock.