Prairie Coneflower

The Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida columnifera) is common on roadsides and other disturbed areas. It blooms from July to August. Native Americans used it as a remedy for snakebit and Poison-ivy.


These pictures were taken next to the small trail leading out from NCAR's fitness center to the trail on the side of the building.

Wild Geranium

Wild Geranium (Geranium caepitosum) blooms from May to August from the Foothills to the Montane Zone. It prefers dry areas and is common on the Mesa Trail. It looks very similiar to the White Geranium (Geranium richardsonii), which prefers moist shady areas. I saw whole gullies of White Geranium on the Brookside-McCurdy Trail.

Hoosier Pass, West (Crystal Lake)

Distance: 3.3 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,542ft-11,720ft
Elevation Gain: 180ft

View looking east from the West Hoosier Pass Trail

There is a nice and easy walk from the top of Hoosier Pass to a mine and a small lake with the unusual name of .... Crystal Lake. This is different from the Crystal Lakes on the other side of Mowhawk Lakes and is probably one of twenty such named lakes in Colorado. About five years ago, I had tried to hike this trail after work one day in Summit County but was turned around by a large bog full of mud and snow. That attempt was about 2 weeks earlier than in the season than this trip. The bog was still there this time but more passable. By mid-July, the route should be very clear.

The route starts out on a broad dirt road that seems to pass some camping or picnic sites

Looking back on the main intersection. Our route is to the back of the photographer

The trail starts right on Hoosier Pass and heads up a wide dirt road. Within a half-mile, the road splits with the route to Crystal Lake following the sharp fork to the right. By the time you reach this point most of the elevation gain has been reached and the rest of the hike is on relatively level ground. It still is above 11K feet, however, so some folks may find the altitude challenging.

The trail as it starts to wind around the bend

As the roads heads north and winds around the hill, views of Quandary Peak begin to dominate the scene. This is a fantastic place to view this unusual stepped mountain. The actual route to the summit of Quandary is on south side of mountain and this route is in complete view from the West Hoosier Pass Trail.

Quandary Peak (14,265ft)

Crystal lake and its mine sit on a nice shelf at the base of a tall ridge. There is plenty of space around the lake to sit and since we were the only ones there one could even risk serious sun burn by going au naturale.

Some flag trees near Crystal Lake indicating the direction of the cold winter winds

What seemed very interesting is an unmapped trail up the ridge to the south. This was a short trail that seemed to provide access to the entire ridge line. Since it was already 4pm, on rare non-rainy day, we decided leaving exploring that route to another day.

Crystal Lake on West Hoosier Pass. The mining ruins are just to the right.

I rather like this short trail. If you are not in the mood for exercise or only have a couple of hours, this is a great option. Be advised that most of the route has views of Highway 9 and homes, so it is not a pristine wilderness experience. The destination, however, does feel very isolated. The road noise is gone and the sounds of water pouring down rocks and into the lake is very soothing. On this trip the wildflowers were just starting to appear. They will undoubtedly be better later in the season. We combined this hike with another short hike to the other Crystal Lakes. Hiking two or three short hikes in sequence is a great way to experience some of these easy destinations and still feel like you deserve that apres hike burger and beer.

Blue Flax

Blue Flax on the Road to Lost Lake. (Updated photo from 2010)

Blue Flax (Linum perenne lewisii) is a common Front Range wildflower. I usually see it later in the summer when things are really dry. It blooms from May to August all the way from the plains to the Subalpine zone.

Close up of Blue Flax from the Mesa Trail in Boulder. This specimen is more muted in color than the one above.

Crystal Lake, Lower (the one near Mowhawk Lakes)

Distance: 4 miles round trip from Spruce Creek Trailhead
Elevation: 10,400ft - 11,980ft
Elevation Gain: 1,580 ft

Lower Crystal Lake as it first comes into view

The trail to lower Crystal Lake can be an exercise in drudgery, but if you have a sturdy, high-clearance, true 4WD vehicle, there are several ways to cheat. Your degree of naughtiness depends entirely upon how far up Crystal Creek Road you decide to go.

Breaking out of treeline

On this trip, we ended up driving 0.85 miles up to a small two-car sized parking area on the left. This area is a small shelf overlooking Crystal Creek. It was very obvious. We stopped here because some hikers passing by told us that cars were not allowed beyond the turn off to Francie's Cabin, another 200 yards up the road. This turned out not to be true. You can drive all the way to the Lower Crystal Lake, which is totally whimping out unless you plan to use it as a trailhead for the Upper Crystal Lake. Be advised that Crystal Creek Road is very steep, rocky, and narrow. There were a couple of shear drop offs that had us giggling with "we're all going to die" tension breakers. If your tire hits a large rock and slides, it may not stop and those drop offs all invariably had large rocks near them.

Crystal Peak on the left. Note the water pouring down the road.

Crystal Creek Road heads off to the right 0.20 miles from the center of the Spruce Creek-Mowhawk Lakes trailhead. If space is available, you can park right across from this road. We did not think of it as a trail at the time b/c two trucks went up it right before we did. It is the trail however. Most of this lower portion of the trail has enough space to allow hikers to get out of the way of vehicles but there are some spots where there is not. Fortunately, only the hardy drive up that road, so traffic is light. The first mile of this road is in the trees, very steep, and mundane despite the pleasant views of the creek. Unless you like that sort of thing, beg, borrow, or steal a 4WD and cheat.

After our soggy water crossing, wringing out our socks was required.

Since there are so many ways to get to Lower Crystal Lake via Crystal Creek Road, I am going to summarize them in a table. The elevation of the lower lake is at 11,980 ft:

Starting Point	Starting Elevation	Elevation Gain	Distance to Lake
Spruce Trailhead	10,400 ft	1,580 ft	2.18 miles
Our parking spot	11,182 ft	790 ft	1.33 miles
Lower Lake	11,980 ft	246 ft to mine 870 ft to upper lake	0.48 miles 1.9 miles to upper lake

Obviously, one can extrapolate between our parking spot and the lower lake. It is possible to park at many locations between them. It is not advisable to park before our parking spot. The one advantage of just driving all the way to the lower lake is to avoid having to cross Crystal Creek itself the wet and soggy way.

Looking back down the valley towards Mt. Argentine.

There was a lot of water on the upper portion of the trail. Snowmelt was pouring down the road for about a quarter of a mile. This was not too bad because we could walk on the raised center portion of the road and only occasionally had to step into the water itself. The road crosses Crystal Creek, however, close to the lake and it was raging. Water completely covered the road for about 20 yards. There was no way around it, we had to just trudge through it and wring out our socks on the other side. The first trip across was not too bad and my socks seemed to dry very quickly. The second trip was worse because the water was deeper by the afternoon. It would be best to bring water shoes to change into if you do this hike in June or early July.

The mining road

Lower Crystal lake is a small, shallow lake, but it sits surrounded on three sides by high mountain walls. We could see the switchback trail to the upper lake, but there were at least four snowfields blocking the route. We did observe two hikers and their dogs make it past the first snowfield but turned around at the second. We found the area so appealing that coming back later in the season to do the upper lake is definately in the queue.

Crystal Lake from the shoulder of the mining road. The route to the upper lake zigzags up this face and then traverses from right to left near the top of the face.

Since we could not hike to the upper lake, we decided to head up an old mining road to the left of the lower lake. This goes up another 250 ft or so. There is a nice meadow half way up with a large snow bank that our dogs loved to race up and down. The road does continue in a dramatic turn to the left and we followed this route as well. This part of the road traverses what appears to be an ancient glacial moraine (large rock pile). It had great views of the valley we had ascended to get there. The best views of Lower Crystal Lake itself were found on the lower portion of the mining road.

Except for the first mile up Crystal Creek Rd (if you choose to park at the bottom), most of the trail is above treeline. The tundra wildflowers were popping out all over the place, particularly Alpine Forget-me-nots.

Standing near the apex of the mining road. The two large peaks in the distance are Grays and Torreys.

I really like the Crystal Lake basin. It was uncrowded and scenic. Since our hike was so short, however, we felt we needed to do more and so headed off to Hoosier Pass for a nice ridge walk, which will be the topic of another post.

Sego Lily

June was second wetest June on record for the Front Range. This has resulted in a bummer crop of wildflowers, chest high grasses, and bugs. This week I went for a stroll on the Mesa Trail and took pictures of over 20 species of wildlfowers. There are some species I have never seen bloom in this area. One of these is the Sego or Mariposa Lily (Calochortus gunnisonii).

The Sego Lily blooms from May through August and is usually in the Foothills and Montane zones in open meadows and fields.

In this picture you can see the individual stems.

The open field filled with Sego Lilies

Acorn Creek

Distance: 2.6 miles one way to the Aspen grove above the "ridge with a view"
Elevation: 8,647 ft - 10,200 ft (by barometric GPS)/10,400 ft (by Summit Hiker)
Elevation Gain: 1,553 ft (by GPS), 1,768 ft (by Summit Hiker)

Our alfresco lunch spot on a high ridge overlooking the Gore Range

A hike up Acorn Creek north of Silverthorne will make you want to quit your job, sell your house, put your mother in a home, and move to Colorado! The views of the Gore Range from this moderate hike are stunning to say the least. Couple that with blankets of early season wildflowers and near solitude, and you have the makings for a life changing event.

The trailhead, looking west

The beginning of the trail starts out in a Sagebrush meadow, which in June is filled with Lupine.

The trailhead is located north on hwy 9 for approximately 10.6 miles. After you cross the Blue River you will immediately turn right onto CR 2400 (Ute Park Rd). At the first junction, continue left following the trailhead sign. Then turn right onto FDR 2402 (Rodeo Dr) and travel approximately 0.6 miles to the trailhead/parking lot in a broad Sagebrush valley filled by mid-June with Lupine, a Sagebrush loving wildflower.

Walking through one of several Aspen Groves

Yet another climatic zone. This time another Sagebrush meadow

True to the guidebooks, the trail passes through several climatic zones that include the aforementioned Sagebrush, a lush riparian stream, Aspen forest, pine forest, and grass covered ridges. The trail climbs relentlessly, so a moderate level of fitness is required to get the best views. Turning around periodically one can see the Gore Range, but the best view by far is at the ridge.

Looking back down the trail at the Gore Range seen through towering Aspens

There is a long segment with logs sunk into the ground every yard or so. This is looking back down the trail in the early part of that segment.

Some of the distance milestones along this trail include a drop down to Acorn Creek within a half mile with a less than sturdy log bridge over the creek; the entrance to the Ptarmigan Wilderness at 1.8 miles (listed as 2.0 miles in the guide book), a wooden trail sign pointing to the right at 2.0 miles, a very short but steep up shortly thereafter, and a dead end into a a gully around (I did not mark it) 2.3 miles.

At the gully, turn left. Ahead is the "ridge with a view". At the top of the ridge is the small aspen grove where we turned around.

The boundary of the wilderness area is up ahead in the trees

Heartleaf Arnica blanketed the forest floor in the pine forests

Directly above the Aspen grove where we turned around is a very obvious avalanche chute coming down from the Lower Ute Peak. We don't own a topographic map of the area and assumed the trail continued up the side of Lower Ute Peak. This is not true. After the Aspen grove, the trail heads south along the ridge and actually ascends to the pass to the right of the peak. Had we known this, we might have continued on. The journey to the pass adds an additional 900 ft of elevation gain in 0.9 miles. From the looks of it, that elevation gain occurs within last 0.5 miles, so it is very steep but not too daunting.

This is a short ridge walk right after the very steep segment. We were thinking this might be the destination but it is another 0.3 miles beyond and up and to the left.

Looking down into the gully. With all the Aspens, this trail will be spectacular in the fall. The final destination of the trail is to the right of the peak in the middle of the picture.

We only saw two other groups on the trail, one of whom ended up sharing our ridge as we ate our peanut butter sandwiches. Had I had a barka lounger, you would have never dragged me off the ridge. As it was, the slightly lumpy, slightly prickly plot of earth I chose for my alfresco dining spot was luring me into complacency despite the building clouds. Just in time, I pulled my body up and headed back down. By the time we reached civilization, the storms had arrived and our plans for an outdoor meal in Silverthorne were squashed in a sea of moody and rumbling clouds.

Elaine is standing a little lower than where we ended up eating. We actually went all the way up the ridge and through the Aspen Grove you see in the distance.

The upper Aspen grove

In an attempt at fair disclosure, be advised that the houses near the Acorn Creek trailhead sell in the millions, so perhaps it is better to bring Mom and her Social Security check along when you drop everything and move here. Either way, Acorn Creek awaits you.

Alpine Forget-me-not

I climbed Mt. Sniktau on Thursday June 18 and then again on Tuesday June 23rd. In the span of those 4 days, the Alpine Forget-me-nots (Eritrichum aretioides) had sprouted in droves. The tundra wildflower season is here. In fact, these pictures come from this past weekends trip to Crystal Lake in Summit County. They are quite wide spread.

These diminutive flowers extend only an inch above the ground. The flower is about the size of my pinky nail. They are bright blue and stand out as clumps of color all across the tundra.

Pesman Trail (Mount Goliath Nature Area)

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,503 ft to 12,152 ft
Elevation Gain: 649 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On leash, wilderness
Date Hiked: 18 June 2009

The Pesman trail wanders through a Bristlecone Pine forest but also has stunning views of the open tundra.

The Pesman Trail, sometimes called the Mount Goliath Trail, is a fascinating walk amongst the oldest living trees on earth, the Bristlecone Pine (Pinus aristata). The trail starts at the Dos Chappell Nature Center located 3 miles up from the Mt. Evan's fee station. A Federal lands pass ($80.00/yr) will now get you in. There is plenty of parking, a bathroom, and an interpretive forest ranger on duty to answer all your questions. At noon the Ranger on duty leads a 45 minute interpretive walk through the alpine gardens adjacent to the Nature Center.

The beginning of the trail, while packed dirt, does ascend 500 or more feet in a short series of switch backs.

One of the Bristlecones along the trail

The trail gains most of its 642 ft in the first half mile. Since it starts above 11,000 ft, this means lung-sucking distress for most of us. The trail has the advantage, however, of being relatively smooth with only occasional rocky portions. Quite a rarity in Colorado.

When the trail levels out, it leaves the forest for a rocky slope with tundra views.

Besides wandering through a square mile of Bristlecone Pines, the trail also traverses a broad ridge with distant views, tundra flowers, and towering boulders. It really is incredibly scenic. I kept expecting a herd of Mt. Evan's resident Mountain Goats to come trotting into view.

Looking west. The two peaks on the far right of the picture are Chief Mountain and Squaw Mountain.

The trail ends at a picnic area on Mt. Evan's Road. I almost did not go all the way because I had already climbed most of the way up Mt. Sniktau earlier that morning and was really feeling the altitude, but I am glad I did. From the terminus of the trail, there are incredible views of the Continental Divide to the west. There is also a short Alpine Garden Trail in the area, which later in the season is filled with low-lying but flowering tundra plants.

The upper trailhead. Near the car is a picnic table.

Near the upper trailhead is the intersection with the Alpine Garden Trail. There are also great views of the Continental Divide.

If one has two cars, then making the Pesman Trail a shuttle hike would be possible either heading up for maximum cardiovascular distress, or heading down for an easier outing. This trail is a great way to spend time above treeline without having to scale thousands of feet in elevation gain. The views are well worth the effort and seeing the Bristlecone Pines is a rare treat.

Lupine

Lupine at the Acorn Creek Trailhead

Lupine on the Tenderfoot Trail

Colorado has been inundated with rain this spring, which has made for a bummer crop of wildflowers. Lupine (Lupinus argenteus) is one of my favorites. It grows on dry slows that are also covered with Sagebrush. Lupine is a member of the Legume family, which means the bacteria in along its roots return Nitrogen to the soil.

Bristlecone Pine

The Bristlecone Pines of Mount Evans

These twisted and gnarled trees are living metaphors for how to thrive in adversity. Actually preferring harsh conditions, the Bristlecone Pine (Pinus aristata) lives on the south-facing slopes of high mountain peaks where the wind never ceases and moisture is hard to come by. They love the contrast between intense sun and deep cold and have evolved a series of creative adaptations that proves once again that Mother Nature, or Natural Selection if you prefer, can master anything.

Most pine trees shed their needles yearly. The Bristlecone in contrast only sheds its needles every 10 to 15 years. It also is very slow growing. Its narrow growth rings create a very dense wood that is hard for pests to penetrate. It is also makes the tree slow to decompose. Centuries after death, the Bristlecone can remain standing, a mute testament that man's hubris. The Pyramids were raised and will crumble long before the average Bristlecone Pine turns to dust. If you are looking for a fast growing privacy tree, don't look for a Bristlecone!

The same trees as in the photo above taken from the short interpretive trail

There places to bump into Bristlecone Pines along the Front Range. Many of the hikes in the Mt. Evans area including Chief Mountain and Chicago Lakes have them. I was surprised to run into a stand of them up Mt. Royal near Frisco. The photos in this post were taken on Mt. Evans at the Mount Goliath Research Natural Area. There is a short interpretive trail through the trees as well as a 3-mile trail (Pesman Trail) that really lets you get up close and personal to the "ancient ones".

While some Bristlecones have been dated to 4,900 years old, the oldest on Mt. Evans is only 1,750 years old. Quite young by Bristlecone standards. Perhaps that is why there were so many beer cans laying around the base of the trunks. These Bristlecones are in their late 20's.

A dead Bristlecone on the Pesman Trail. How many centuries has this stump been standing?

Not all Bristlecones possess the twisted shape that identifies them to most people. That is an adaption for life near treeline where the conditions are the harshest.

The forest service does a talk on the Bristlecones every day at noon during the season at the Dos Chappell Nature Center, which is 3 miles up the Mt. Evans road from the fee station. Entrance to the Mt. Evans area is now covered by the standard Federal Lands/Parks Pass ($80/year), so you have no excuse not to visit.