Mt. Evan's Scenic Byway

The star of any trip up Mt. Evans. One of the resident Mountain Goats.

Taking the Mt. Evans Scenic Byway, near Idaho Springs, is a jolly, near death experience with stupendous views. It is also a great way to beat the heat and carouse with Big Horn Sheep, Mountain Goats, and Yellow-bellied Marmots. Mt. Evans is 14,264 ft and is one of two 14ers in the state you can drive up. If you don't like heights, however, you may want to snort some Valium before starting out. The road has no guard rails but plenty of breath-stealing drop offs. You will also share it with bicycles and oversized pick-up trucks. There is a fee past Echo Lake unless you have an all Federal Parks Pass.

Image (not my own) of the Mt. Evans Scenic Byway. I have never been able to take my knuckles off the steering wheel to get a picture!

Things to Do:

• Stop at Echo Lake, which is before the fee station, for a picnic or fishing derby.
• Hike the Pesman Trail, which leaves from the Mt. Goliath Nature Center. This trail travels across the tundra through a grove of ancient Bristlecone Pines. Bristlecones are the oldest thing on earth, easily reaching 1,700 years. Alpine plants galore dot the trail.
• Visit the Nature Center itself and see a mock up of an Alpine Spring Beauty with its 10-foot root that enables it to survive on harsh mountain tops. A small terraced alpine garden with helpful placards surrounds the building.
• Stop at 13,000 ft Summit Lake, a jumping off point for folks heading to the summit the old-fashioned way...via their feet, for an incredible view looking down on Chicago Lakes. A resident heard of Big Horn Sheep often congregate here. Volunteer rangers will also set up interpretive displays.
• Call on some parking karma and get a coveted slot on the summit itself. On the summit you can explore the ruins of an old hotel, feel the power of mother nature via freezing temps and extreme winds and stroll to the top itself. 
 

The summit parking lot. The Boulder field is often filled with tourists climbing the 120 ft from the pavement to the summit. Cars can stretch for a good 1/4 mile on both sides down to the left.

This goat was in need of a Hollywood makeover. He/she/it was shedding its winter coat. Not exactly a red carpet moment. Still, it had panache and liked to pose for the 200 lenses flashing all around.

This celeb was already done shedding and looked like it had just returned from a posh salon. Nothing like a new 'do to make you feel like a mountain diva.

Not to be out done, this B-actor was posing for us on the way down. Yellow-bellied Marmots are known for their hedonistic lounging upon warm rocks 

To get to the byway, take I-70 West from Denver to exit 240 (Hwy 103), the second exit at Idaho Springs. Because of snow the road is usually only open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Even if there is no snow, CDOT will close the road after the Labor Day weekend, so plan accordingly. Come prepared for any of the following: intense sunlight, cold temperatures, snow, hail or rain, high wind, and low oxygen levels. The road can close any day throughout the summer due to winter-like conditions.

Mosquito Pass Road Snowshoe

Distance: 4 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,140 ft - 12,226 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,200 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Date Snowshoed: 18 January, 2014
Tags: #snowshoe, #leadville, #wintersports, #powerdays
Other snowshoes in the area: Treeline Loop,  Lower Mosquito Pass to 3B, Vance's Cabin

Mountains galore on a Mosquito Pass Road Snowshoe

There is nothing more sublime than a sunny winter day in Leadville, Colorado. With its mounds of whipped cream snow and American blue sky, this rustic mountain town takes on a sleepy, I-just-want-to-hibernate feel that is a welcome contrast to the nearby frenzy that is Ski Cooper and Copper Mountain. While the hordes are jostling for parking in lines two to three miles long, Leadville is devoid of humanity and filled with outdoor options for the back country skier and snowshoer.

Trailhead

Heading past mining ruins

Approaching the junction where County Road 3B, which splits off to the right (at the blue sign)

On this particular day we headed to Mosquito Pass Road (aka 7th Ave, and County Road 3), which heads east out of town. The road is plowed for several miles and ends at a berm where the road would otherwise twist around a small hillside. From here it is simple to park and cruise up the road for whatever distance you please or detour off onto County Road 3B.

At the gate to the Diamond Mine

The Diamond Mine

Having crossed the gully, the route heads up the hillside before turning west again.

This area is traversed by snowmobiles, which churn up the snow making snowshoes a better option than Microspikes but just barely. At 0.75 miles the road takes a sharp left at the gate to the Diamond Mine, a modern looking structure with a tall tower that is hard to miss. This turn, at least from a distance is veiled by the terrain and we wondered if the route actually deadened at the gate. Keep going and soon you will see where it goes.

Turning west again. The saddle is in the distance.

Looking across the valley at Mt. Evans

Continuing upwards

From this point on the route stays to the left of the valley and continues relentlessly up the hillside towards a saddle at 12,200 ft. Beyond the saddle, the road switchbacks precipitously up another 1,000 ft before cresting out at Mosquito Pass at 13,186 ft. We tend to go to the saddle which has lovely views looking north into the valley beyond.

The views of Mt. Evans and Mt. Dyer from the trail

Up and more up

Mt. Massive from higher up the route

On Mosquito Pass Road, the higher one climbs, the broader the views. Visible to the west in one continuous wall of ice and rock is Mt. Massive (14,429 ft), Mt. Elbert (14,439 ft), and Mt. Hope (of Hopeless Crew fame, 13,933 ft). To the south is a concave bowl of jagged rock bordered on the left by Mt. Evans (13,577 ft) and pyramid shaped Dyer Mountain (13,855 ft). In the valley below are two lakes Diamond and Mountain, which on this trip were invisible.

The lower part of the route is more gradual, climbing only 330 ft in the first mile, but gets steeper on the final approach to the saddle. At 1.5 miles Dyer Mountain comes into view. On the slopes to the left were several natural avalanches. The 2013/2014 winter has been particular dangerous with several deaths already reported. That did not detour one perky couple from skiing up the road, across the hillside and down again in graceful S-curves, their equally perky dog bounding down beside them.

With no where to sit but the road itself, we plopped down on inflatable butt pads and had our lunch wallowing in the stillness. There is nothing like a sunny winter day in Leadville, Colorado. 

Chicago Lakes

Distance: 8.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,620 ft - 11,550 ft (lower lake)
Elevation Gain: 930 ft (net), 1,957 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 July, 2011
Dogs: On leash, Mt. Evans Wilderness
Bathroom at trailhead: yes

Gazing down on glacier carved lower Chicago Lake

I have fallen in love with Chicago Lakes in the Mt. Evans Wilderness near Idaho Springs. The destination is stunning in that glacial-carved, majestic sort of way, and the route travels through a mixed Fir/Spruce forest, my favorite biome. Add the 14,000 foot Mt. Evans as a backdrop and you have the perfect alpine tableau.

Starting out on the Echo Lake Trail

The official trailhead on the far side of Echo Lake

The trailhead for this hike starts at Echo Lake, a small lake and picnic ground that is popular in summer for family gatherings. We parted on the northern end of the area but did not start marking the distance until we were standing on the Echo Lake Trail itself. From there is it is a short 0.22 miles around the lake to the official trailhead.

View of the Continental Divide from the trail down to the Chicago Creek Basin

The trail down to the basin

From this point it is another two tenths of a mile (at 0.4 miles) to the descent into the Chicago Creek basin. I loved this part of the trail. It is rugged, rocky, and faced on the left by towering gray granite walls. I did this hike on a cool, cloudy day and the towering trees were damp and primeval.

Crossing Chicago Creek

The road to the Idaho Springs Reservoir

After a descent of approximately 286 ft, the basin is reach (at 1.2 miles). The elevation here is 10,334 ft. At 1.3 miles is a sturdy bridge crossing Chicago Creek followed by a dirt road leading to the Idaho Springs Reservoir. The route stays on this road for 1 mile until it reaches the reservoir itself at 2 miles. It is then a short quarter of a mile to the wilderness boundary and kiosk and another 2 miles to the lower lake.

The reservoir and its spillway

One of the two cabins at the upper end of the reservoir

Once inside the wilderness boundary, the route undulates upwards on a rocky trail with views of the sheer cliffs to the east, which is a ridge line between two 13ers, Mt. Warren and Mt. Rogers. This part of the route also contains many skeletal and downed trees, the remains of a late 70's forest fire. The fallen logs and piles of rocks cover the ground creating a thousand nooks and crannies for wildflowers to occupy, and there were tons, adding a vivid splash of color to the otherwise gray terrain.

Signage at the boundary to the Mt. Evans wilderness area

Trail segment through an open meadow

The lower lake sits in a pristine glacial cirque surrounded by Willows. This would be a lovely fall destination. We found it more appealing to sit high up on an open hillside to the right and look down on lake. This hillside was crammed with Indian Paintbrush, Purple Fringe, and the occasional Alpine Sunflower. I called this spot "the log with a view". It was 4.4 miles in from the trailhead.

A rockier trail segment

Looking up at the east wall to the valley

The remains of the 1978 Idaho Springs fire, which burned 400 acres

Sitting there surrounded by beauty my hiking companion and I quietly turned contemplative. She asked why I was I ever drawn to abuse my body in order to seek out alpine settings. She wondered if such places made me feel less significant. I gazed at the gray cliffs for a while and realized it was in fact the opposite. For the brief moment that I sat there, I became part of the scenery. I was expanded exponentially. I became as solid as the rocks, as serene as the lake, as enduring as the processes that produce such places. Sitting by Chicago Lakes makes one feel part of something much larger than insignificant human existence. I became the living embodiment of the cliche, totally connected to the Earth and all such places wherever they exist. Either that or I was smoking mushrooms at high altitude. Both probably produce similar insights.

The final approach to the lower lake

A view of the lake and the end of the valley beyond

Another eight tenths of a mile will bring you to the upper lake. On this trip I did not make that journey. Folks coming down said it was a swampy, muddy mess. 2011 has been a record year for snow and many places are still melting.

The open hillside were we stopped to eat

Flowers in the meadow

Mystical experiences aside, Chicago Lakes is a lovely destination that takes the hiker into the very arms of the Mt. Evans Wilderness. When you are done, drive up to Summit Lake. From there you can look down on Chicago Lakes and feel proud about your accomplishment.

Closeup of some Indian Paintbrush

Purple fringe and company. The wildflowers this year have been stunning

Big Horn Sheep of Mount Evans

Ewe in a field of wild flowers. She is not as scruffy as some of the others

Big Horn Sheep have star appeal. Between a grid iron physic and showy head gear (only on the males), they fascinate us with their dramatic mating rituals and high country antics.

Young Males Sparring

I have lived Colorado for over 10 years, however, and this is only the fourth time I have seen them, and I have never seen an adult male, only ewes and young'ens. One of these days though my luck will improve and I will be able to provide you with a more iconic shot.

These photos come from Mt. Evans. Last summer I took some folks hiking on the Pessman Trail. After the hike we drove to the summit of the 14,000 ft mountain and saw many Mountain Goats but also this herd Big Horn Sheep. The herd members were all shedding their winter coats making them look scraggy and unphotogenic. The herd contained adult Ewes and juveniles both male and female. This is the norm.

And they're off!

I did not have much time to observe the sheep, but I did get this running sequence. Was it just juveniles at play, or was the group sick of the nosy, camera laden tourists?

Pesman Trail (Mount Goliath Nature Area)

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,503 ft to 12,152 ft
Elevation Gain: 649 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On leash, wilderness
Date Hiked: 18 June 2009

The Pesman trail wanders through a Bristlecone Pine forest but also has stunning views of the open tundra.

The Pesman Trail, sometimes called the Mount Goliath Trail, is a fascinating walk amongst the oldest living trees on earth, the Bristlecone Pine (Pinus aristata). The trail starts at the Dos Chappell Nature Center located 3 miles up from the Mt. Evan's fee station. A Federal lands pass ($80.00/yr) will now get you in. There is plenty of parking, a bathroom, and an interpretive forest ranger on duty to answer all your questions. At noon the Ranger on duty leads a 45 minute interpretive walk through the alpine gardens adjacent to the Nature Center.

The beginning of the trail, while packed dirt, does ascend 500 or more feet in a short series of switch backs.

One of the Bristlecones along the trail

The trail gains most of its 642 ft in the first half mile. Since it starts above 11,000 ft, this means lung-sucking distress for most of us. The trail has the advantage, however, of being relatively smooth with only occasional rocky portions. Quite a rarity in Colorado.

When the trail levels out, it leaves the forest for a rocky slope with tundra views.

Besides wandering through a square mile of Bristlecone Pines, the trail also traverses a broad ridge with distant views, tundra flowers, and towering boulders. It really is incredibly scenic. I kept expecting a herd of Mt. Evan's resident Mountain Goats to come trotting into view.

Looking west. The two peaks on the far right of the picture are Chief Mountain and Squaw Mountain.

The trail ends at a picnic area on Mt. Evan's Road. I almost did not go all the way because I had already climbed most of the way up Mt. Sniktau earlier that morning and was really feeling the altitude, but I am glad I did. From the terminus of the trail, there are incredible views of the Continental Divide to the west. There is also a short Alpine Garden Trail in the area, which later in the season is filled with low-lying but flowering tundra plants.

The upper trailhead. Near the car is a picnic table.

Near the upper trailhead is the intersection with the Alpine Garden Trail. There are also great views of the Continental Divide.

If one has two cars, then making the Pesman Trail a shuttle hike would be possible either heading up for maximum cardiovascular distress, or heading down for an easier outing. This trail is a great way to spend time above treeline without having to scale thousands of feet in elevation gain. The views are well worth the effort and seeing the Bristlecone Pines is a rare treat.