Bear Peak via Shadow Canyon

Distance: 7.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,645 ft - 8,461 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,951 ft
Date Hiked: 2 June, 2012
Dogs:  Allowed off leash with Boulder green tag
Bathroom at the trailhead: Yes

Looking at Green Mountain from the summit of Bear Peak.  All of the pictures in this post were taken with my cell phone.  I took pictures from the top down but decided to reverse the order in the post. 

Climbing to the top of Bear Peak in Boulder is not for woosies!  This trip is the equivalent of climbing an 14er with supplemental oxygen and it will kick your keister...unless of course you are a CU coed. For some reason coeds flock to the summit of Bear Peak and I swear they levitate there because they are always so annoyingly perky after climbing almost 3,000 ft.  Somehow I don't think their energy is coming from crunching Chia.

Our destination... Bear Peak as seen from the lower Mesa Trail.  Note that small rock protruding up from the ridge.  You'll see that again. 

Almost to the Shadow Canyon Trail, the Mesa Trail passes this broad valley. 

The Mesa Trail is particularly lush this year with ferns and prehistoric-sized plants.  Here are a few nestled near an attractive boulder. 

There are three routes up Bear Peak.  The trail via Shadow Canyon, via Fern Canyon, and via Bear Canyon.  This post describes the first.  I have never done the latter, but need to one day.  The route via Shadow Canyon is the most arduous of the bunch.

Looking back down the lower part of the Shadow Canyon Trail.  It is more narrow than the Mesa Trail but still very easy to walk on. 

At the intersection of the Shadow Canyon Trail and the base of Shadow Canyon itself is this old cabin.  Even though it was starting to pour when we reached this point on the way back, there was no shelter. 

A not so typical trail segment in the canyon itself.  This shot is taken of a relatively flat segment up near the saddle and looking downwards.  The trees and rocks are representative of the whole route, however. 

There are two ways of getting to the Shadow Canyon Trail, located at the southern end of the Mesa Trail System.  The first is to take the Mesa Trail itself, and the second is to take the Homestead Mesa Trail.  The former is the route I took on this trip to Bear Peak, while the latter was the route I took to climb South Boulder Peak way back in 2008.  I have been the saddle between the peaks many times.  If I had known how easy it was to get to Bear Peak from the saddle, this would not have been my first assent.

One of the few places to catch a view

Looking up through the trees at "Devil's Thumb".  This marks the half way point of the canyon climb.  

Another trail segment taken on the way back down. 

The Mesa Trail to Shadow Canyon is really a wide dirt road that you could drive a truck up, not that you are allowed to.  It heads northward and curves around a wide hill before heading due west in a curvaceous pattern.  At around 1.4 miles the Mesa Trail connects with Shadow Canyon with the Mesa Trail turning to head north again while Shadow Canyon continues west until it is forced to turn north by the Flatirons.

The saddle.  Shadow Canyon heads to the left, South Boulder Peak is straight ahead and Bear Peak behind the photographer. 

The view of the Continental Divide from the short 0.3 mile trail to Bear Peak

Heading through the small tallus pile near the ridge.  By the pine tree on the left is a post, marking the start of the Fern Canyon Trail.  The route goes up to this post, around the corner and up.  

The wide road dead ends at Shadow Canyon itself and the route becomes a narrow, rocky, path-finding adventure through boulders and thick Ponderosa and Lodgepole Pines.  The canyon is a mile long and it will be a grueling 1,573 ft to the saddle.  In winter, this trail can be treacherous since ice will form in every nook and cranny and keep melting and refreezing all winter long.

Looking north from the Fern Canyon junction

Looking southeast from the junction.  Our car is somewhere far below. 

Looking up at the summit tallus pile.  It is a class 2 scramble to reach the top.

From the saddle you can pop up to South Boulder Peak by heading left or Bear Peak by heading right.  It is only 0.3 miles to the summit of Bear Peak, and a minimal 300 ft elevation gain.  After slogging up to the saddle the trip to Bear Peak itself is a breeze.

As the clouds darken, the exodus begins

The summit

Coming back down.  Boulder is displayed below.

The last 0.3 miles to Bear Peak heads to the right and wanders gradually upwards until it comes to a small, easily traversed tallus pile.  At the top of this pile is is the Bear Peak ridge and the intersection of the Fern Canyon trail that rises up from the east.  The summit is a short class II rock scramble away.  While precipitous, the rocks have so many deep nooks it would be really difficult to fall. 

Gnarly clouds followed us all the way down.  There was lots of rain but now more thunder.

Lupin lines the route back to the car

Taking the short cut across the Mesa Trail Bend.  That yellow dot in the distance is Homestead House near the trailhead.   Time for some serious Mexican food!

Bear Peak is a lightening magnet and I swore I would never be one of those crazy, stupid people I have seen standing on the summit in middle of a thunderstorm.  Ok, so I am crazy stupid.  By the time we got to the saddle, the clouds were already threatening and thunder could be heard over the Indian Peaks to the west. Still we pressed on, analyzing the weather every few seconds to see if it was time to bolt.  As it was, I climbed to the top, snapped a few pictures, and scurried back down with the rest of the crazy stupid set.  This was quite a shame, because the view from the top is spectacular.  The eastern plains sail off into the distance and the Continental Divide is visible to the west.  

Climbing Bear Peak is almost a rite of passage for Boulderites and I can see why.  With the Flatirons arrayed dizzyingly below you do feel like you are on top of world.  Seriously though, don't be crazy and hang out with the lightening bolts.  As the highest point for miles and miles you are likely to be levitated OFF the mountain in a rather unpleasant way if Mother Nature decides to take you out.  Still, after climbing all the way back down to the trailhead, you may wish she had.  

Lake Ann

Distance: 7.6 miles round trip (from 4x4 trailhead) 11.6 miles round trip otherwise
Elevation: 10,560 ft - 11,811 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,251 ft
Date Hiked: 23 June, 2012
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: On leash, Collegiate Wilderness Area
Tags: #hiking, #coloradooutdoors, #mountianlake, #gearguide
Nearby Hikes: Ptarmigan Lake

The aqua shaded waters of Lake Ann just below the Continental Divide in the Collegiate Wilderness

Lake Ann in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness located between Leadville and Buena Vista is a spectacular alpine lake surrounded by peaks, peaks, and more peaks. It is not the easiest place to get to but if you don't mind slogging an extra 2 miles each way, you can do it without a high clearance 4x4. I recommend begging a friend with a jeep to take you there, however so you can spend more time at the lake and less time eating dust on a boring dirt road.

The parking area

Looking back north from the parking area

Lake Ann has been on my do list for a long time but ever since I climbed Hope Pass as part of the Leadville's 100 Hopeless Crew, I have wanted to see the Collegiate Peaks area. It was stunning from the pass and no less stunning on the 12 mile dirt road we had to drive to get to the small ghost town of Winfield, where incidentally the runners turn around to run back up to Hope Pass. After seeing that climb from the bottom, I have even more respect for those guys! This road, Hwy 390, is well marked with a sign and is south of Twin Lakes on the way to Buena Vista. This first part of the drive is passable with a passenger car but is still rough and washboardy and will rearrange your internal organs if you go too fast.

The trailhead. The route to Huron Peak is to the left and the route to Lake Ann is behind the sign.

At 0.9 miles you pass into the Collegiate Wilderness

There is a large parking lot with port-o-lets at Winfield for those who can not drive any further. This is one of ways to climb Huron Peak (14,009 ft). To get to Lake Ann however, you need to hike or drive further up the road. Believe me when I say you don't want to take your Acura on this drive. The road undulates with deep ditches and crosses more than one stream. It is not a difficult 4x4 road, but it is tedious and will feel like it is going on forever. The trailhead is obvious, however with a dozen or more like minded 4x4 owners crammed into a small area. This is also the main trailhead for Huron Peak, so expect a crowded parking lot.

The route will take us up this valley

A typical trail segment for the first flat part of the route

At the southern end of the parking area is a large trail sign and gate. The trail up Huron Peak heads to the left while the trail to Lake Ann heads straight ahead. The trail is actually part of the Continental Divide Trail and CD signposts will be found periodically along the route. The day we did this hike it was soul-sucking hot even though the elevation starts out at 10,000 plus feet. So, even though the first 1.7 miles of the route is practically flat, we found ourselves dawdling as we lingered in any shady spot we could find. This initial segment weaves in and out of sun baked meadows or large stands of Fir and Spruce and the meadows were decidedly toasty.

The Three Apostles come into view in one of the open meadows

The trail junction between the Apostles Trail to the left and the Lake Ann Trail to the right

At 1.6 miles is the split between the Lake Ann/CD Trail to the right and the Apostles Trail to the left. A large sign marks this junction, so it is impossible to miss. The Apostles are the three large peaks that dominate the view as you head down the valley. I have never done the Apostles Trail, but need to add that to my list. Note that the lake is not below the Apostles, but an unnamed 13er that can be seen to the right.

The South Fork of Clear Creek crossing

You can tell by the lush understory of the second half of the trail that this area normally is cooler and wetter than the day we hiked it.

Once past the junction, the trail descends briefly to cross over the South Fork of Clear Creek on three somewhat bouncy logs. Not the easiest of crossings but doable. From this point on, the trail starts to climb steadily upwards and stays in the trees as it does so. Even with all the shade, we were still roasting. Finally, we stopped at a creek and dunked our heads and bandanas, which gave us some relief. Climbing upwards helped as well.

The waterfall is in the rocks just ahead

Huron Peak as the trail begins to break out of the trees

At 3.2 miles, the route crosses the creek again at a small waterfall. This crossing might be more difficult in heavy runoff years, but in 2012 was hardly an issue. Shortly after the waterfall the route climbs very steeply up a ridge until it finally breaks out of the trees and begins a series of switchbacks up a tundra face with ever increasing views of the valley below. At 3.7 miles is a fork in the trail. Take the left to the lake which is just ahead and slightly downwards or continue right to reach the Continental Divide, another 800 ft higher.

The trail starts to switchback just head. The views are stunning at this point.

The trail to the left leads to the lake. The trail to the right heads up to the Continental Divide.

Lake Ann itself is a serene destination with its aqua shaded waters and grasses growing along its edges. It was finally cool and all I wanted to do was lounge with my back to a rock and feed. It was a slow, hot, slog up to the lake and I was seriously hungry.

Lake Ann

Grasses growing along the edge of the lake. Someday the lake will be gone and all that will be left is a meadow.

I confess that my favorite part of trip was not the lake itself, but the views back down the valley. Huron Peak is this perfectly cone-shaped mountain and it dominates the view, but the distant views of Mt. Blaurock and Mt. Ervin, both 13ers, was as stunning as the view from a top Hope Pass. The Collegiate Wilderness does live up to its fame as a scenic wonderland. I would love to visit in the fall!

While early in the season, a few wildflowers were beginning to pop along the shore.

The lake from another angle.

If you can get to the trailhead, a trip to Lake Ann a quintessential Colorado experience. The heat we experienced is in fact very unusual and I would normally plan on chillier conditions and a downright chill at the lake. The trip seemed much harder that it normally would be given the distance and elevation gain and I do blame the heat for that. We are just not used to it. On the day we hiked, it was still close to 80 degrees at 6 PM in the evening and must have gotten into the 90s during the day. Denver by contrast was having record heat in the 100s. So don't let my grumblings deter you. Lake Ann is wonderful hike!

My favorite view...looking back down the valley.

A shot of the author to satisfy her parents who never get to see her in these posts.

A parting view of the Three Apostles and the unnamed peak to the right that is our destination. Later in the evening, the light was less harsh, but the temps back down in the valley were still uncomfortable.

Devil's Backbone

Distance: 4 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,100 ft - 5,450 ft
Elevation Gain: 350 ft
Dogs:  On leash only
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Date Hiked: 20 April, 2012

Gazing down at the Devil's Backbone hogback formation from across the valley.

Devil's Backbone is a unique open space near the town of Loveland Colorado.  The backbone is a really a hogback in geological parlance, which just means a sharply tilted chunk of rock protruding out of the surrounding landscape.  Colorado is awash in hogbacks and the Devil's backbone is a particularly attractive one.  

The trailhead has bathrooms, signage and a large parking lot.  

The first part of the trail is wide and welcoming.  You won't get lost in this park. 

Deposited during the time of T-Rex, the rock that is now vertical was actually the shore of an inland sea that covered a portion of what is now the Great Plains of the U.S. The wonders of geology have taken the flat layers and tilted them upwards so that they rise over 200 feet above the surrounding meadows.

First view of the formation.  Surely a giant mythological creature is going to rear out of the ground at any second. 

A zoom shot of the formation

There are many ways to enjoy the Devil's Backbone Open Space.  The Wild Loop (2.6 miles total) is a short hike that will take you close to the formations on one side and further out into the open meadow on the other.  We chose to continue past the end of this loop and across the valley.  From there, the trail heads up to the top of an escarpment where it weaves northward seemingly forever until it meets the Rim Rock Open Space.  That distance is really only suitable for mountain bikers.  Hikers will end up returning much earlier.  There are two loops in the mid-section of the open space, the Hunter Loop and the Laughing Horse Loop.  The area is not well marked and we actually thought we had made it to the Laughing Horse section because there was at least one unmarked loop as you head up the escarpment.

Looking out into the meadow from the Wild Loop Trail.  Just out of frame to the right  is a long series  of very expensive homes. 

There is a short spur trail off the upper Wild Loop that takes you to a view point looking west.  This spot is on a small rise between the formations. 

When you reach the junction of the Hunter Loop, the section heading straight travels along the hill side with views of the Mc-Mansions that have been built in the area.  Having walked a short distance in that direction we decided to turn around and take the section heading further up the escarpment.

Sand or Star Lillies (Leucocrinum montamum)  have been common this year. They grow in sandy soil  and Sagebrush communities.

Trail sign showing our location at the end of the Wild Loop.  You can see the open space continues on for quite a distance. 

Once we gained the top of the escarpment, we could see that the trail just continued on through the Sagebrush.  The route was rocky and numerous mountain bikers passed us.  We walked a little further and then decided to turn around.  Since it was already late afternoon this was a good choice.  It was a long drive back down to the Denver Metro Area.

Leaving the Wild Loop and heading across the valley to the escarpment in the distance

A steeper, rockier trail segment

My hiking companion told me that the trails were very different since the last time she had been there.  The route keeps you away from the rock formations with the exception of one spur to a hole in the rock.  This spur was closed when we were there to protect nesting raptors, so don't expect to channel a Cretaceous dinosaur by hugging the rocks themselves.  You can look, but you can't touch!

A view of the formation from across the valley

The straight part of the Hunter Loop heads towards these houses.  We chose to turn around and head up the hill to the top of the escarpment, which is dramatically visible in the distance.  

The trip across the valley was a way to add mileage to this short excursion and did provide some nice views of the surrounding area as well as the backbone itself.  There is no shade in this area, so go in the spring or fall when temperatures are reasonable.

Our turn around point.  The trail continues on forever....

If you like hogbacks, check out the Hogback Trail just north of Boulder and Matthew Winters Park near Golden.

Raven

The Common Raven (Corvus corax) swooped by as I got too close to its nesting tree. 

Oh the poor Common Raven (Corvus corax)!  It is big and black and binges on road kill.  To the species that created the white leisure suit, the speedo,  and the need to wear one's pants sagging below one's gluteus maximus, the Raven is sadly devoid of bling.  It is however, highly intelligent, which is more than I can say for the designers of the afore mentioned fashion disasters.  I must be a good little fashionista however, because the Raven, while common in Colorado, just does not draw my eye.  I see this bird quite a lot, and hear its raucous cry even more, but my mind glazes over at the mere thought that it is only a mere Raven.

The typical profile of a Raven...perched in a tree, its large beak dominating its face. 

The Norse god Odin would be ticked off -- in the way that only gods with lightening bolts can be -- if he knew of my professed ennui towards his favorite birds.  His pets Huginn and Muninn traveled the world spying on us humans.  Odin was not the only god to love Ravens.  They are featured prominently in many cultures as tricksters, lost souls, and the ghoulish familiars of evil-minded spirits.  Geesh, and this is just a bird!

The Raven is very acrobatic with large and visually obvious flight feathers. 

Non-mythological Ravens have been known to frolic in the snow like children, chatter incessantly on light poles like teenagers, and finally settle down with the right girl for life.  They can mimic human speech but their cawing, screeching, and shrieking sounds more like the political banter on Fox News and CNN.  There are times I yearn for the mute button.  An indiscriminate eater, they will consume garbage, road kill, insects, small rodents, berries, and nuts.  The world is one big buffet to the Raven, which is why we have not managed to wipe it out just yet.

I captured the images of this Raven along a creek.  It was defending its territory every time a cyclist rode by, which probably means it was part of a nesting pair.