Chief Mountain

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 10, 720 ft - 11,709 ft (USGS measurement)
Elevation Gain: 989 ft
Date Hiked: 16 June, 2011
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the trailhead: No, closest is the Starbucks in Evergreen

The view of the Continental Divide from the summit of Chief Mountain

If you have ever wanted to see what it is like to climb a 14,000 ft peak (14er) but have no desire to carry supplemental oxygen or slog tirelessly upwards for miles on end, the stunning jaunt up Chief Mountain is for you.

The trailhead

A typical lower trail segment

A small 11er on Squaw Pass Rd near Evergreen, Chief Mountain is short and delightful (e.g. easy) climb up through a stand of sub-alpine firs and the rare Bristlecone Pines to a bare summit with interesting rock formations and jaw dropping views of Mt. Evans. At the top is a small pile of talus (large rocks) that require a scramble to reach the top. The Fir trees, the views, and the talus are all features of a 14er adventure.

The sign at the cross roads of Old Squaw Pass Rd. Don't trust the mileage.

The trailhead for Chief Mountain is approximately 12 miles up Squaw Pass Rd out of Evergreen and the parking area is directly next to the ski lift for the Echo Mountain Ski Resort. The parking area is just a broad shoulder on the right hand side of the road that can handle perhaps 8 cars. The trail starts on the opposite side of the road. A small vertical forest service sign and several rock steps are the only visible features that you are in the right spot.

View to the northwest part way up the route

The trail travels upwards sharply for the first quarter of a mile and then eases up into a nice gradual ascent that almost anyone with a baseline of fitness can handle. At 0.3 miles the route crossed the Old Squaw Pass Rd. On the other side is a large sign that says Chief Mountain is 2 miles away. This is incorrect. The one way route, from the parking lot to the summit is 1.5 miles.

The trail begins to creep above treeline

When the trail pops above treeline, the topography changes. The route becomes more rocky and the few remaining trees are stunted and wind blown. Small tundra flowers dot the landscape with splashes of white, yellow, and blue. The summit pile comes into view along with several other angular rock formations that just beg to be photographed.

Squaw Mountain and Bristlecone Pines near the border of treeline

The last few switchbacks wander through these formations and it is difficult not to linger to admire the lichens and flowers. On this trip, the weather was pressing and I did not know if I would have any time on the summit at all, so I pushed on to the final scramble.

Looking at the summit as the trees disappear and the tundra begins to rule

The trail becomes more rocky above treeline

From the summit, the views are stunning. To the west is Mt. Evans. I felt like a voyeur, looking deep into the back side of the Mt. Evans Wilderness Area, a zone one does not normally see. To the east is Squaw Mountain and Evergreen and Evergreen Mountain. To the north is Longs Peak and Mount Meeker along with the Indian Peaks.

Looking at the summit talus pile. It is a short 2 minute scramble to the top. The top of Mt. Audubon in contrast is a 0.5 mile scramble.

The summit itself contains a lot of nooks and crannies suitable for lounging, and if you don't want to scramble a small plateau just below the talus pile provides similar views without the final effort.

Looking at Squaw Pass Rd as it continues towards Mt. Evans.

Chief Mountain is going to become an annual hike for me. While higher peaks are still blanketed in snow, Chief Mountain is snow free. It can provide a tundra fix for those pinning away after a long winter. This is a short hike, however, so if you are yearning for more, try tacking on the Pessman Trail up the Mt. Evans Road. This trail will take you through another stand of much older Bristlecones. You will also get views of the place you just visited.

Below the summit is a nice plateau that contains excellent views for those who don't want to scramble over the talus to the top.

Pesman Trail (Mount Goliath Nature Area)

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,503 ft to 12,152 ft
Elevation Gain: 649 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On leash, wilderness
Date Hiked: 18 June 2009

The Pesman trail wanders through a Bristlecone Pine forest but also has stunning views of the open tundra.

The Pesman Trail, sometimes called the Mount Goliath Trail, is a fascinating walk amongst the oldest living trees on earth, the Bristlecone Pine (Pinus aristata). The trail starts at the Dos Chappell Nature Center located 3 miles up from the Mt. Evan's fee station. A Federal lands pass ($80.00/yr) will now get you in. There is plenty of parking, a bathroom, and an interpretive forest ranger on duty to answer all your questions. At noon the Ranger on duty leads a 45 minute interpretive walk through the alpine gardens adjacent to the Nature Center.

The beginning of the trail, while packed dirt, does ascend 500 or more feet in a short series of switch backs.

One of the Bristlecones along the trail

The trail gains most of its 642 ft in the first half mile. Since it starts above 11,000 ft, this means lung-sucking distress for most of us. The trail has the advantage, however, of being relatively smooth with only occasional rocky portions. Quite a rarity in Colorado.

When the trail levels out, it leaves the forest for a rocky slope with tundra views.

Besides wandering through a square mile of Bristlecone Pines, the trail also traverses a broad ridge with distant views, tundra flowers, and towering boulders. It really is incredibly scenic. I kept expecting a herd of Mt. Evan's resident Mountain Goats to come trotting into view.

Looking west. The two peaks on the far right of the picture are Chief Mountain and Squaw Mountain.

The trail ends at a picnic area on Mt. Evan's Road. I almost did not go all the way because I had already climbed most of the way up Mt. Sniktau earlier that morning and was really feeling the altitude, but I am glad I did. From the terminus of the trail, there are incredible views of the Continental Divide to the west. There is also a short Alpine Garden Trail in the area, which later in the season is filled with low-lying but flowering tundra plants.

The upper trailhead. Near the car is a picnic table.

Near the upper trailhead is the intersection with the Alpine Garden Trail. There are also great views of the Continental Divide.

If one has two cars, then making the Pesman Trail a shuttle hike would be possible either heading up for maximum cardiovascular distress, or heading down for an easier outing. This trail is a great way to spend time above treeline without having to scale thousands of feet in elevation gain. The views are well worth the effort and seeing the Bristlecone Pines is a rare treat.

Bristlecone Pine

The Bristlecone Pines of Mount Evans

These twisted and gnarled trees are living metaphors for how to thrive in adversity. Actually preferring harsh conditions, the Bristlecone Pine (Pinus aristata) lives on the south-facing slopes of high mountain peaks where the wind never ceases and moisture is hard to come by. They love the contrast between intense sun and deep cold and have evolved a series of creative adaptations that proves once again that Mother Nature, or Natural Selection if you prefer, can master anything.

Most pine trees shed their needles yearly. The Bristlecone in contrast only sheds its needles every 10 to 15 years. It also is very slow growing. Its narrow growth rings create a very dense wood that is hard for pests to penetrate. It is also makes the tree slow to decompose. Centuries after death, the Bristlecone can remain standing, a mute testament that man's hubris. The Pyramids were raised and will crumble long before the average Bristlecone Pine turns to dust. If you are looking for a fast growing privacy tree, don't look for a Bristlecone!

The same trees as in the photo above taken from the short interpretive trail

There places to bump into Bristlecone Pines along the Front Range. Many of the hikes in the Mt. Evans area including Chief Mountain and Chicago Lakes have them. I was surprised to run into a stand of them up Mt. Royal near Frisco. The photos in this post were taken on Mt. Evans at the Mount Goliath Research Natural Area. There is a short interpretive trail through the trees as well as a 3-mile trail (Pesman Trail) that really lets you get up close and personal to the "ancient ones".

While some Bristlecones have been dated to 4,900 years old, the oldest on Mt. Evans is only 1,750 years old. Quite young by Bristlecone standards. Perhaps that is why there were so many beer cans laying around the base of the trunks. These Bristlecones are in their late 20's.

A dead Bristlecone on the Pesman Trail. How many centuries has this stump been standing?

Not all Bristlecones possess the twisted shape that identifies them to most people. That is an adaption for life near treeline where the conditions are the harshest.

The forest service does a talk on the Bristlecones every day at noon during the season at the Dos Chappell Nature Center, which is 3 miles up the Mt. Evans road from the fee station. Entrance to the Mt. Evans area is now covered by the standard Federal Lands/Parks Pass ($80/year), so you have no excuse not to visit.