White-margined pussytoes

White-margined pussytoes (Antennaria marginata)

White-margined pussytoes is fairly common in Ponderosa woodlands. It blooms in late spring through early summer.  It gets its name from its resemblance to the bottom of a cat's paw.

Shelf Lake

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,130 ft - 12,000 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,870 ft
CMC Rating: Difficult B
Date Hiked: 9 August 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking  #mountainlake #nature

Shelf Lake

The trail to Shelf Lake, off of Guanella Pass Road,  is a moderate to difficult hike to a scenic alpine tarn bordered on three sides by rocky thirteen thousand foot peaks. In Autumn the route is filled with juvenile but still colorful Aspens. In summer wildflowers dominate. While the trail is rough and rocky, the destination is worth the pain.

Pile of rocks that marks the trailhead

Trail sign, which can not be seen coming up the road, but only after you have passed it.

Getting to the trailhead is a pain of a different sort and may not be worth it for some folks. Lately the road really requires a high-clearance vehicle and angelic patience. It is filled with football-sized rocks and large dips that make it harder to travel more than 1 or 2 miles an hour. That can mean a one hour drive from the turnoff on Guanella Pass. What is amazing is the number of passenger cars that have made the journey to camp in one of the many primitive spots along the way. On this trip we were in a 4x4 truck and it was still agonizingly slow.  I wouldn't bring my passenger car on that road, but many obviously do.

Early trail segment. The route is rocky most of the way.

Early views

If you decide to go, travel north on Guanella Pass Road out of Grant Colorado for seven miles. This dirt road has been under construction since 2013 and mid-week travelers will have additional delays. At Forest Road 119, take a left. At the turn there is a small sign indicating the Cedar Break campground. It is 3.5 miles to a small and very obvious pile of black rocks. There is space on the eastern side of this pile for two cars and some space along the road as well. A nice wood sign marks the beginning of the trail. Note this sign is NOT visible from the road until you pass it and look over your right shoulder.

At 0.75 miles the trails goes very sharply uphill.

Looking back down the valley. Autumn is still several weeks away and the Aspens were startlingly green.

The first half of the route is in the trees with limited views. Sometimes Aspens crackle in the wind and at other times Lodgepole Pine provide shade. There are several stream crossings that will require acrobatic rock hopping. In late August, only one was an issue.

Boulder Field

Back bowl comes into view

At 0.75 miles the trail climbs steeply up an escarpment on a trail filled with loose sand and rock. Having a hiking pole for the descent of this segment would be handy. At 1.2 miles is a very large boulder field followed by a backcountry campground. It was easy to navigate the campground on the way up, but not so easy on the way back. We found ourselves a little to the right of our inbound route on one of the many social trails leading to camp spots. Be prepared to really note the route or wander about a bit. At 1.5 miles is a large open meadow filled with Willows and small ponds.

Heading up to the first shelf

Looking down on the first shelf

Near treeline the route gets very pretty with dwarf Sub-alpine Fir, Blue Spruce, and even Lodgepole Pine. Large swaths of wildflowers exist in every open space. At times the trail wanders through large stands of encroaching Willows. Be careful here. Large rocks loom that may send you pitching head over heels into the shrubbery.

Originally, we thought the lake was straight ahead at the back of the bowl. It is actually several shelves up and to the left.

Wildflowers were still blooming, even in mid August.

The approach to the alpine bowl is deceiving. The lake appears to loom directly ahead when in fact it is located up a series of shelves to the left. As such, last half mile is a long series of switchbacks and false summits. Once on the proper shelf, it is still a short walk to the lake itself.

Heading up the last shelf

Arriving at the lake

There are plenty of dry places to lounge around the lake but few rocks, so early in the season the area may be a soggy experience. Directly ahead is the Continental Divide. Decatur Mountain is a craggy bump on the ridge to the left. While you can't see it, the Argentine Pass Trail is just below the ridge on the other side. From there you can climb Argentine Peak, which is the next peak along the ridge to the right. Finally, Square Top Mountain looms large to the east.

This Mountain Goat family (see the kid following the lead parent), were just white moving dots with the naked eye, but can be seen with a cropped photo taken with a telephoto lens.

Square Top Mountain

While lounging at the lake, we saw a family of Mountain Goats traverse the ridge from left to right. Others have reported similar sightings. Finally, be aware that this area is a thunderstorm magnet. They can be seen building from as far away as Silverthorne when other areas along the Divide are clear.

Upper Straight Creek

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,158 ft - 12, 713 ft (highest point to the north on the ridge)
Elevation Gain: 1, 555 ft
Date Hiked: 25 July 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking #nature #tundra #summitcounty

The view looking west from the Continental Divide on the Upper Straight Creek Trail

Upper Straight Creek is a high altitude frolic, starting from one Colorado's most counter intuitive places...I-70's Eisenhower Tunnel. Most people who barrel through the tunnel on the way to Silverthorne never realize that there is a parking area and trailhead just to the right as you exit westbound. There is a green sign that says "Truck Break Check", that marks the turnoff.  East bound travelers can circle up and behind the tunnel entrance on a small service road, which dumps you right at the parking area. 

Parking at the Trailhead

Heading up the service road

Red Indian Paintbrush dominated the lower section of the trail.

After 0.5 miles on a paved and then gravel road,  the trail travels northward from the tunnel into a deep alpine drainage and then switchbacks up an old wagon road until it reaches the Continental Divide at 2.5 miles.  Note at 1.2 miles is the first switchback marked by a large cairn. At this location, there is also a social trail that continues into the back bowl.

Starting out on the single track

Looking at the back bowl

On the switchback heading south

From the Continental Divide (12,535 ft) one can admire the upper bowls of the Loveland Ski area, hike north to Hagar Mountain or south along the ridge line. On this trip we headed south for eye popping views of the Gore Range, Ten Mile Range, Holy Cross Wilderness, Grays and Torreys, and Mt. Sniktau.

Frosty Ball Thistle and Purple Fringe in a wildflower tableau

In summer, Indian Paintbrush, Purple Fringe, and the freaky Frosty Ball Thistle cover the landscape. Because the route follows an old wagon road, the grade is fairly easy. A social trail heads off to the back bowl for those who want a longer hike, or who don't want to climb to the ridge.

Approaching the ridge

Alpine Sunflower

Sitting on the ridge looking at Grays and Torreys, two popular 14ers

This area is entirely above treeline and notorious for thunderstorms, so check the forecast carefully before choosing this spot. Parking is limited in the area as well.

On the ridge heading towards our high point

On the ridge, looking west

On the ridge looking south

Mt. Sherman

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 12,000 ft - 14,035 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,035 ft
Date Hiked: 18 September 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Tags: #14er, #mountainpeak, #gearguide
Other 14ers: Lincoln, Democrat, Handies, Quandary, Bierstadt, Grays, Torres

Looking down on Mt. Sheridan (13,748 ft) from the ridge to Mt. Sherman

Mount Sherman, near Fairplay Colorado, is one of the fifty-four named peaks above 14,000 ft that are such an obsession. "Bag them all" is the rallying cry as experienced climbers and novitiates alike stand in line for their chance to slog their way to the top of each and every one. Mt. Sherman is relatively close to Denver, and so it is more crowded than most. If you can, climb it on a weekday or at least slightly off season.

Heading up at 12,000 ft

Looking up at the ridge from the mining road

Close up of the hilltop mine

The trailhead to Mt. Sherman can be found on County Road 18 (Four Mile Creek Road), located one mile south of Fairplay on  U.S. Highway 185. CO 18 is a dirt road but is passable by passenger cars even up to the gate at 12,000 ft. Where you begin to hike depends upon your vehicle, your temperament, and of course the weather.

Looking back down the route

Heading into the talus

Mt. Sherman is considered one of the easier 14ers to climb and I can't disagree. The first 1.5 miles is up an old mining road and so is relatively smooth and broad. This early part of the route passes two historic mining complexes, the Dauntless Mine at 12,300 ft and the Hilltop Mine at 12,900 ft. Both are rather scenic, particularly the Dauntless Mine, which perches majestically against the ridge line when viewed from below.

Heading towards the saddle

On the saddle

After the Hilltop Mine, the route begins to switchback up true talus to the saddle between Mt. Sheridan and Mt. Sherman. Just before the saddle is a small rock barrier that has been erected to give folks a chance to gear up before crossing into the saddle, which traditionally is blasted by gale force winds. While Leadville can be viewed from the saddle, it is a bit of a walk to see it and most people scurry onwards towards the ridge on the other side.

Heading up the ridge

View of Iowa Gulch to the west

The ridge leading up to the summit of Mt. Sherman is either a jungle gym or a terror inducing experience depending upon your stomach for loose rock, high winds and visible but not life threatening exposure. When the winds are blowing, you might as well pack up the hiking poles and be prepared to lurch from rock outcropping to rock outcropping. On a blissful day, you can bring your  grandmother.

Still not there

The final pitch

The final summit ridge is very flat and it is a short quarter mile to the small bump that is the summit. There are several rock shelters to hide behind, but for some reason the winds on the summit are usually less than those below.

View of White Ridge (13, 684 ft) from the summit ridge

The summit is just ahead

If you have the energy, there are numerous other peaks to be bagged in the area. You pass Mt. Sheridan (13,748 ft) on the way, Gemini Peak (13,951 ft) and Dyer Mountain (13, 855 ft) are to the north, and White Ridge (13, 684 ft) is to the east. As with any 14er, the views makes the struggle worth while.

View of the Iowa Amphitheater from the summit

Wilder Gulch

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,662 ft - 11,279 ft
Elevation Gain: 617 ft (net) 708 ft (cum)
Date Hiked: 28 June 2009
Update Hike: 2 July 2015
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: Off leash

Verdant Wilder Gulch near Vail Pass

The Wilder Gulch Trail off of Vail Pass is a private oasis of green grasses, giant spruce trees, stunning wildflowers, and hair-frizzing humidity. All that green comes with a price, so get a haircut before you go! You won't see many people, blessed be,  and the gradual dirt path will be a great way to spend a few hours away from the hordes on nearby Shrine Mountain.

Vail Pass Rest Area. The Wilder Gulch Trail starts to the right across the road.

The start of the route. The stream crossing is in the depression just in front of the hiker. 

The trail starts just off the lower parking lot of the Vail Pass Rest Area. The lower lot is for the bathroom only and has a one hour time limit, so park in the upper lot and walk down and through the lower lot. A small forest service sign marks the start of the trail.

Segment that parallels I-70

Heading up the gulch. Ptarmigan Peak is visible in the distance. 

Twenty yards up the trail is a stream crossing that until late in the season is a boot soaker. You can bypass this spot by going a little further upstream or by avoiding the area all together and walking on the bike path (see appendix below). Most people rock hop or slog on through however. Conditions vary greatly, so walk on down and check the flow before deciding your route.

Jacob's Ladder was just one of the many wildflowers already blooming. 

It is 0.76 miles across several rolling hills before the trail turns sharply and enters the gulch itself. This initial segment parallels I-70 with all it attendant noise and distraction. Once in the gulch the trail weaves ever so slightly up and down, crossing numerous streamlets, many modified with large stones to make the passage easier.

Green, green, green!

Spruce trees get thicker towards the upper end of the route.

The vast majority of the trail is exposed to the stunning blue sky that always seems to look down upon Vail Pass. Storms may build, rumble, and rain but down in the gulch the threat of lightening is minimal.  Occasionally, the vegetation and trees encroach on the trail and provide some welcome shade. Views of Ptarmigan Hill (12,143 ft) are visible from many spots along the way. 

The trail officially ends when it intersects Forest Service Road 708. You can turn left here and travel another 0.8 miles to the top of Ptarmigan Pass, or turn around and head back down.

Some early wildflowers

Wilder Gulch is open to mountain bikers but they are few and far between. On this trip we only saw two and they were very polite. Unfortunately, we ran across three jeeps that were trying to travel down the gulch from FSR 708.  They quickly became mired in mud and downed trees. The trail is really much too narrow in places for motorized vehicles.

A shot from the return route that is mostly in the trees. 

The intersection with FSR 708. Turn left to hike to Ptarmigan Peak

Appendix A: Alternate route to bypass the stream crossing 

If the stream crossing near the beginning of the route is unpassable, another option is to travel along the paved bike bath to the base of Wilder Gulch. A small sign underneath an overpass marks the junction. The downside of this option is the extra distance (0.86 along the path and another 0.5 miles up the gulch), and the unattractiveness of the bike path itself. Cyclists on the path travel almost as fast as cars on I-70 and they don't appreciate pedestrians. The path itself winds down and along the valley and at times is perilously close to the highway itself.

Trail junction with the Vail Bike Path. The overpass is the east bound lanes (photo from 2009).