Homestead/Mesa Loop…Don’t forget the history

Distance: 4 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,645ft – 6,300ft
Elevation Gain: 655ft
Date Hiked: 12/13/08
Dogs: Off leash in designated areas with Boulder green tag
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes

The Dowdy-DeBacker-Dunn Homestead gives the Homestead trail its name.  Frozen in place, its cold stones hold the memory of many Front Range winters. 

With yet another storm raging in the high country we once again set our sights on a lower hike along the Front Range. This loop near Boulder travels up the Homestead Trail for 1.1 miles, heads west along the Towhee Trail for 0.4 miles, then jogs 0.3 miles on Shadow Canyon before finishing up with 2.0 miles along the Mesa Trail.  There is a web of trails at the southern end of the Mesa Trail, and hikers can choose many different options.

Map of the route 

The beginning of the trail.  The homestead is just out of the picture to the left.

Heading up the Homestead Trail

The Homestead Trail is nice because it is a steeper and more strenuous ascent. It will get your heart rate going as you climb the many steps leading up to a broad plateau. From the top, there are views of the distant plains as well as the ever-approaching Flatirons.

View from the Homestead Plateau

Snow on the back side of the Homestead Trail

The Towee Trail is in a gully and the snow here was packed and slick. 

The Homestead trail descends back down the north side of the plateau to intersect with the Towhee Trail, which comes up the gully from the right. This (north) side of the plateau was still snow encrusted and very slick. The Towhee Trail also has the disadvantage of being a leash only, which is another good reason to start out on the Homestead Trail if you have dogs that need to run free.

Near the intersection of the Towhee and Shadow Canyon Trails

View from the Shadow Canyon Trail

Heading up the Mesa Trail

From the Towhee Trail, the loop heads east on Shadow Canyon for just 0.4 miles. There are nice views of some rock formations near this intersection and nice views of the plains a few yards up the trail. The Mesa Trail stretches 6 miles south to north, and at the intersection of Shadow Canyon and the Mesa Trail the hiker has the choice of heading north for another 4 miles or heading south directly. We decided to head north and upwards but were turned around by very slick conditions within a quarter of a mile. Just past the ruins of an old cabin, we turned around and headed back to the trailhead. The southern portion of the Mesa Trail is a broad. It winds gracefully downwards with sweeping views of the plains. The willows along the trail are filled with birds in the spring and summer.

Heading back down the Mesa Trail as it curves southward

Around half way back

Looking across to the Dowdy Plateau.  

At the apex of the Homestead and Mesa Trails are the remains of the Dowdy-DeBacker-Dunn Homestead. Built in 1858, all that remains is the stone section, unique for its multi-sized slab construction. In its day, an irrigation canal ran through it, providing fresh running water…of a sort. It seems hard to imagine this popular trailhead as the deep frontier but long before Boulder was founded, hearty stock had been settling in what was then Arapaho Indian country. For some it was gold but for others if was land for both farming and ranching. The original settler, Dowdy, ran a gristmill.

Close up of the rock construction

Crossing the stream at the trailhead.  Even in winter it has a stark beauty. 

 Colorado is filled with history and many of its trails are strewn with mining relics, the ruins of old cabins, and the ghosts of pioneers. Half the time we overlook these doorways into the past. Glued to our iPods and focused on cardiovascular performance, they simply fade from view. So, next time you hit the southern Mesa Trailhead, take a moment to examine what is left of the homestead and look around. Imagine living there over 100 years ago.

Squaw Mountain Snowshoe (Sort of)

Distance: 4 miles roundtrip
Elevation: 10,230-11,430 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,200 ft

Mt. Evans (14,264 ft) Massif viewed from the summit of Squaw Mountain
When the wind is blowing at Brainard Lake and when the traffic to Summit County is just unbearable, check out the trails near Mt. Evans. Several of these, including Squaw Mountain (11,430 ft), are located up Highway 103 out of Evergreen. Squaw Mountain is not a pristine wilderness experience. Its three summits are filled with radio antennas, buildings, and propane tanks. Still, given the conditions I mentioned in my first sentence, these detractors can be easily overlooked.

The start of the trail

Squaw Mountain from the trail
The trail up Squaw Mountain is a wide service road. On this trip it was a hike and not a snowshoe. We brought snowshoes but started out in Yak Traks instead. Halfway up, we took these off too because there was not a stitch of snow on the ground.

First switchback
From Highway 103, the trail heads moderately upwards. A view of the summit is briefly visible with the first half mile. At 0.4 miles, the trail crosses Old Squaw Pass Road, another good snowshoe in the area. Another third of a mile beyond this and you reach the first switch back. Once you have that pattern in your mind, you have the essence of the Squaw Pass trail…long stretch, then switchback, long stretch, then switchback. The pattern breaks down near the top when the fire watchtower comes into view.

Looking up at the watchtower
Antennas on the summit
The watchtower is a small rock shelter located on the right-most summit. A road leads directly to this area. There is not much shelter there though, and a luncheon next to its wall can be brisk if the wind is blowing.

Road to the watchtower

Wider view
Squaw Mountain three summits are all sharp piles of nearly vertical skree. The exception is the tower upon which the watchtower is built. It is a little broader. On this trip I climbed up near the top of the middle pile. The actual top of this summit is an angled knife-edge that would probably be easy in summer but was not worth the effort in winter.

Propane tanks between the left-most summits. Chief Mountain (11,709 ft) is to the left.

Between the left-most summits (when viewed coming up the road), is another building and a large set of towers. We ate lunch here on this trip. There are stellar views of the Mt. Evan’s Massif from this location and it is slightly more sheltered.

Heading towards the summit
The one note of caution I have about this trail is that parking is very limited and is primarily tucked in next to the Hwy 103 itself. It is also difficult to identify. There are no named signs, just a small forest service sign that says 1921 on it. You can’t see this sign coming from Evergreen. Our guidebook says the trailhead is 12.8 miles from the junction of Hwy 103 and Hwy 74 (Evergreen Parkway), but our odometer read less than 12 miles.

Standing in between the rock piles on the middle summit. The watchtower is visible in the distance.

On this trip we ended up running over a sharp object in the snow along the road, which ripped out our tire. Fortunately, there is cell service there where it is otherwise lacking lower down in the canyon.

Rattlesnake Gulch (Eldorado Canyon State Park)

Distance: 3.6 miles round trip
Elevation: 6,050 ft - 7,250 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,200 ft
Date Hiked: 28 November, 2008
Dogs: On leash only, State Park
Bathroom at the trailhead: No
Critters: Mountain Lion

The dramatic cliff faces are the draw to Eldorado Canyon State Park.  The Rattlesnake Gulch trail is a great way to see them.

Rattlesnake Gulch is a short hike with Zen-like properties located in Eldorado Canyon State Park near Boulder. I like hiking this trail in the spring as a mid-week prepare-for-summer hike but on this trip it was Thanksgiving weekend and we needed a close in trail with some decent elevation gain to work off the feeding frenzy.



Fowler Trail



Gray Quartzite cliff face seen from the trail. This rock started out as eroded sand 1.6 billion years ago. Time, heat, and pressure compacted it into sandstone. This formation was eventually shoved closer to the Earth's core where the increased heat and pressure transformed it into metamorphic rock. How's that for drama? 
The trail starts upwards immediately on the Fowler Trail, which is a short handicapped accessible trail with spectacular views of the rock walls and the many rock climbers that make Eldorado Canyon famous. Before these views, however, the Rattlesnake Gulch trail begins and heads sharply up to the right. It crosses a short meadow before climbing relentlessly up a series of switchbacks to the ruins of the Crags Hotel, which burned down in 1912. There is not much left but an interpretive sign, some social trails, and some nice views back down the canyon.



Ruins of the Crag's Hotel 800 ft above the trail head. Built in 1908, it was destroyed in 1912. Guests reached the hotel via an inclined railway from the canyon floor.



From the ruins overlook, you can see the trail head and cars far below. 
From this point, the trail becomes a loop up to a lookout over the Continental Divide. You can take the loop in either direction but I prefer the far right loop because it hits the overlook early on. This is my Zen space. On a hot summer day, I like to lie down on the ground at this overlook and gaze up into the deep blue sky.



The overlook trail just as it leaves the Crag's Hotel ruins. This section is smooth. Other parts are much more steep and rocky. 
For some reason I have never encountered other postulates on such excursions. This trip, however, probably due to the holiday weekend, was filled with revelers. The trail was packed with them. From the overlook, the trail continues to ascend sharply until it reaches the level of the railroad tracks that cut through the hills.



A cliff face of the Fountain Formation, which is sedimentary rock that was uplifted 300 million years ago. The redish color comes from an iron ore called hematite. This is the same stone that can be seen on Boulder Flatirons (see my snowy day at NCAR and Royal Arch posts) and at the Red Rocks Amphitheater (see my Matthew Winters post). 
If you live anywhere near the area, then you know that coal trains are ubiquitous. They traverse the cut that the trail leads to.   Earlier in the outing we did see some folks walking on the tracks, and there is a social trail that leads from the trail up to them. I have never done this though and would be curious to know what kind of views you get from tempting fate.   It looks like there is another social trail near the tunnel, which might lead up to the top of hill.



Trail leading to the rail bed



Highly eroded rail bed 
This part of Eldorado Canyon is home to a resident Mountain Lion. While we did not see it this trip we had a close encounter last spring. We had just turned a switch back and passed a mountain biker heading up. In short order, he came back round the corner screaming Mountain Lion!!!! The beastie was following us down the trail and we did not even know it. I was bummed because I have always wanted to see a Mountain Lion in the wild, through a telephoto lens of course, and here we were within 40 feet of one. I have another friend who reported being stalked by a Mountain Lion in that same area. I tell you this not to make you paranoid about this trail but to emphasize that even 10 minutes off the highway is wilderness in much of Colorado and Eldorado Canyon is no exception.



View of the canyon from the overlook trail



Sunlight glinting off the hillside on the way down
Rattlesnake Gulch is a short trail with nice vistas, so get out there and try it. Just don’t wear raw steak around your neck. If you see a Mountain Lion, “here kitty kitty” is NOT an appropriate response.

Mule Deer

Mule Deer (Odocoileus hemionus) are very common in Colorado, although White-Tailed Deer are becoming somewhat prevalent in the Eastern Plains. This group is part of a resident herd on NCAR’s mesa. We see them at all times of the year and they are known to snuggle up to the warm building at night. Many have large radio collars on them with antennas sticking out, which looks futuristic. I wonder how many of us humans have such invisible collars tracking our every move for some other species.


According to the Colorado Division of Wildlife, you can distinguish Mule Deer from White-tailed Deer by their gate. Mule Deer bound with a stiff-legged gait with their tail held down. White tails move with a graceful lope, the flag-like tail held erect.


Deer are vegetarian browsers who feed on the woody portions of both shrubs and trees. Interestingly, they eat little grass and so do not compete with domestic livestock. Antler growth begins in the spring so that they are ready for mating spars in autumn. By winter they are shed. Males of the species are called bucks, the females are called does, and the youngsters are called fawns.

Secret Hike near Allenspark

When lakes dry up they slowly turn into meadows. This small one was turning golden in the Fall.
It is the day after Thanksgiving and going over some recent hikes. On this day, two friends and I wandered off the beaten path near Allenspark. So close to Estes Park, the trails are usually mobbed. This unmarked area was deserted and we found some stunning views, and wonderful picnic spot, and a meadow turning golden with the change of seasons. For large sums of money, I might reveal the location of this hike, but your credit better be good!


Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft)


View from the trail. St. Vrain Mountain (12,162 ft) on the left.



Rocks formations in St. Vrain Canyon


My friend John. Perhaps you can bribe him to show you his secret hike!

Stained Glasss in the Allenspark Community Church

This fall, I went hiking with a friend up near Allenspark (Elevation 8,504 ft). He took me to check out the stained glass in the Allenspark Community Church. Each one of the windows represents a different Colorado Wildflower. The church was not open, so I ended up taking pictures of the stained glass through the windows themselves. They are quite striking. If you are visiting Estes Park, or driving the Peak-to-Peak highway for a Sunday drive, stop in. Add a late breakfast as the Meadow Mountain Café and you have the makings of a lovely outing. The artist used to have a web site that described his work and some history of the church. This web site is no longer working.




Reflection of the window with hints of Allenspark beyond


Golden Banner window


Outside of the church