Lily Lake

Distance: 0.9 mile loop
Elevation: 8,930 ft
Elevation Gain: none
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: No, National Park
Date Hiked: 7 July 2013

Lily Lake with Mt. Meeker, Long's Peak, and Estes Cone in the background 

Lily Lake on the outskirts of Rocky Mountain National Park is a handicapped accessible stroll filled with views of Long's Peak, Estes Cone, and Twin Sisters. Suitable for families and older folks, I took my parents there and was agog at the baby ducklings, swooping Peregrine Falcons, and fluffy blue clouds. Just lovely.

Looking up at Lily Ridge, which is not in the park. There is a 1.7 mile trail that ascends the ridge.

Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels are always willing to pose for the camera. Just don't feed them!

While Lily Lake won't get your heart rate up, it will put you in a contemplate mood. From the numerous oil painters lining the shore and fishermen floating on their pontoons, it was obvious that others felt the same way.

Blanketflower (Gaillardia aristata) along the trail

A log bench allows for repose along route. Twins sisters soars in the background. 

You get to Lily Lake from Highway 7 at the Twin Sisters Trailhead. There is a small parking lot at the lake itself and a larger one for Twin Sisters across the street. Cars whip by at bone crunching speed so be careful crossing the road. We arrived at 10:00 am and a half a hour later both lots and all the slots along the road were filled. Who were these people? Lilly Lake is not exactly in the main part of the park.

The smooth, gravel trail is suitable for all abilities.

These Mallard ducklings were a hit as they drifted near the shore.

One of the many painters we saw.

Doudy Draw to Springbrook Loop

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,670 ft - 6,246 ft
Elevation Gain: 576 ft
Dogs: Doudy Draw (Voice & Sight), northern Springbrook (on leash), southern Springbrook (not allowed)
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Date Hiked: 3 May 2014
Tags: #Boulder, #osmp, #hiking

The Flatirons viewed from the Doudy Draw Trail

South of Boulder near Eldorado Canyon State Park are a series of open space trails that wander serenely through the hills west of Highway 93. In spring, the grassy knolls and Ponderosa Pine covered mesas are filled with Meadowlarks, Mule Deer, and giddy Boulderites competing to get one of the few parking spaces at the trailheads.

Starting out on the Doudy Draw Trail. The first half mile is graded dirt.

Looking down into the drainage

On this trip we started at the Doudy Draw Trailhead on Eldorado Springs Drive (Highway 170), hiked up Doudy Draw to the Springbrook Loop, and followed that loop on the north side (dogs are not allowed on the south side) until the intersection with the Goshawk Trail for an out and back outing. Folks with no dogs can do the entire loop.

Crossing the Community Ditch irrigation canal

Turning onto the Springbrook Loop

The further you head up this route the more isolated the feel. Highway 93 drops away, the hillsides close in, and nothing is left but clouds and blue skies. That is of course until you look up to see an on rushing horde of mountain bikers and trail runners jostling for first dibs on knocking you flat. The runners in particular seemed to travel in packs of seven or eight. We Coloradoans are a fit bunch and the Bolder Boulder is at the end of May so I get it, I really do.

The landslide in the distance was caused by the 2013 flood.

Ah the green grasses of spring!

On this trip, the incredible force of the 2013 flood was in evidence. Lower down the drainage was a gaping scare of dirt and river rock with downed trees still slammed against obstacles. Further up whole hillsides had slipped away leaving wounds just waiting for this years storms to make them fester and ooze.

Looking north

On top of the mesa looking towards Eldorado Canyon State Park

The views of the Flatirons and in particular Shadow Canyon below Bear Peak are particularly nice on this trail. There are hidden meadows and exposed cliffs that one can't see anywhere else. One a clear day the Eastern Plains stretch away into eternity.

A good portion of the Springbrook trail is in the trees.

The bridge that starts the Goshawk Trail. Following the road would lead to the Fowler Trail.

The first half mile of the route is on an accessible gravel path to a picnic area and bathroom. At 1.2 miles is the turn off for the Springbrook Loop. If you stayed on the Doudy Draw Trail, you would eventually climb up to the top of Flatirons Vista. At 2.5 miles the route reaches a broad dirt road and water diversion ditch. A bridge spans the ditch and marks the start of the Goshawk Trail. Since this trail does not allow dogs, we turned around and retraced our steps.

Looking up the backside of Shadow Canyon. Bear Peak is on the far right and South Boulder Peak is the next peak to the left.

Boulderites aren't the only ones swarming over the trail.

Once again, I have to applaud Boulder and Boulder County for the effort they have made in preserving open space.  The trails south of Boulder are some of my favorites. If you can though go mid-week or after work. You'll have a better chance of getting a coveted parking spot and will blessed with solitude and the hush that comes as the sun slides inevitably behind the Flatirons.

France: Abbaye de Royaumont

The Abbaye de Royumont, located 30km north of Paris near Asnières-sur-Oise. The design of the entrance was well constructed to attract visitors and novices alike.

Staring at the main building of the Royoumont Abby down the alley of trees that forms its entrance is an instantaneous narcotic for the soul. Staring at the well placed trees will slow your breathing. When I last visited I swayed restlessly from side to side trance-like. Was this real, or was it jet lag? For a moment life in the 15th Century did not seem so brutal and cruel. Silence oozed from the rocks. If one had to spend an entire life in one spot, one could hardly do worse.

The cloistered hallways were open airy, and filled with the rustling of leaves.

A glimpse across the square. The garden was still bare dirt.

My reveries were instantly shattered, however, upon the arrival of two enfants terrible who raced up behind me shrieking with youthful exuberance. They began throwing stones into the pool. The ripples they caused raced across the water and into my psyche. Time to move on. I managed to stay ahead of them as I toured the grounds. The central cloister garden was torn up and under construction, but he vaulted corridors surrounding them were there. The ghosts of monks long dead rustled in the damp spring air along with a few leaves, dried and forgotten in the corners.

Medieval tiles on the floor of the old refractory

Part of the ruins of the old cathedral. Just out of view to the left is what is left of the tower. It looks like it was cut in half with a dull knife.

Besides the corridors, there are two main rooms, one of which is the dining hall for the monks. It has huge vaulted ceilings, a large organ for when the room was converted to a church, and replicated medieval floor tiles. It was chilly and beautiful at the same time. It is hard to imagine this place of worship being turned into a Grist Mill, but it was. The main entryway was where the wheel was located. The nuns, who later took over the building, tried to restore it sacredness by repairing walls but placards show where various industrial machines were located.

Wandering around the back side of the complex. Birds were singing merrily away, but spring had yet to come with its greenery.

In one corner of the building is a small tearoom. After exhausting myself strolling slowing about, I required a pastry and tea to fortify myself. It is possible that the monks might have enjoyed such indulgences but I gave silent thanks to the modern era, strawberries, crème, and the wonders of international travel.

Twin Sisters

Distance: 7.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,090 ft  – 11,430 ft
Elevation gain: 2,340 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: yes across the road at Lilly Lake
Tags: #RMNP, #coloradooutdoors

Twin Sisters viewed from Hwy 7

Twin Sisters on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park is a great trail that has elevation gain, panoramic views, and proximity to the Front Range. Its large rocky summit, with multiple piles of scree, will make you feel like you have climbed a 14er without busting a lung.

Lily Lake, located across the road from the trailhead

While in a mixed forest for most of the way, the trail does have periodic views of the Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak, and Mt. Lady Washington, which are located right across the valley. The density of the trees themselves is thin, which at least creates a sense of airiness. Finally, the entire route is strewn with angular rocks that were coated with chartreuse lichens. They are so bright, you'll be reminded of Graceland. Long live chartreuse.

Longs massif viewed from the trail. From left to right is Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft), Longs Peak (14,255 ft), and Mt. Lady Washington (13,281 ft).

Despite its daunting elevation gain, the route is not difficult. The ascent is accomplished through a long series of switchbacks with few large step-ups. Very little quadricep action is required. Flatlanders in tennis shoes were easily navigating the trail although boots with ankle support will protect you  from the small, angular rocks which can easily cause twists, particularly on the descent.

A typical section of tree "encrusted" trail

Rocks and green turf near treeline

The view from treeline looking towards the summit ridge

There is a very interesting transition near treeline when large twisted rock formations come into view. These formations are bordered by stones jutting out of the turf and by Limber Pines, which have been sculpted by the wind into bent, twisted silhouettes.

Looking back down the trail

Just beyond these trees, there is a portal into the world of sun, wind, and stone. Within the span of two footsteps you suddenly travel from a forested realm into a long bare rock field. You might want to turn around here to make sure the doorway is still there. I half expected to find a dragon perched nearby or at least an ogre or two.

Another shot looking back down the trail

It is 0.75 miles from this transition line to the summit. The views of Estes Park and beyond will make you stumble as you try to navigate the rocks and ogle the view at the same time. A long pitch along the ridge and a series of short switchbacks takes you to a large saddle surrounded by two large domes of scree. The one to the right, next to the park’s radio tower, is where most people end up. The views there of the Longs' massif will boggle the mind.

View of the summit

The summit is a great place to watch clouds form. At one point, directly over the lower dome we could actually see tendrils of air curl and wind their ways upwards only to be consumed by an even larger cloud. I have a theory about Twin Sisters. It has a large, exposed block of scree, and I wonder if the heated rocks provide extra lift near its summit. Even when I have not been on the summit, I have seen large storms form right on top of it. Who knows if this is true, but the wary hiker of Twin Sisters should get an extra early start.

View of the Longs' massif from the summit

If you have the chance to visit this trail, you won’t need your park pass but you might need a few weapons of mass destruction since it does seem to be popular with folks who look like they just stumbled out of the Winnebago. You would think that the altitude gain would deter most of these visitors, but it does not.

Looking northwest from the summit

The trailhead is located on Hwy 7 between Estes Park and Allenspark. There is a parking lot across the road at Lily Lake, which has a bathroom or you can drive directly to the trailhead up a short dirt road. Parking in this lot is more limited.

Estes Cone

Distance: 6.1 miles round trip
Elevation 9,425-11,002 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,023 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #RMNP, #coloradooutdoors

Estes Cone

Estes Cone, on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park, is a large volcanic remnant with a cap of flat, erosion resistant rock. The trail to the summit is a journey into an eerie world of twisted, lightening darkened trees. Bring poles and sturdy boots because this trail put the word "rocky" in Rocky Mountains.

While in the trees until the very end, this trail has the advantage of being close to the Denver Metro Area and in possession of some excellent views of Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak, and Mt. Ypsilon not to mention Estes Park. There is also one nice meadow crossing, one creek, and one old cabin to break up the monotony.

Rocky upper reaches of Estes Cone

The trail is easy to moderate except for the last 0.7 miles, which ascends 1000 ft straight up the cone. Here the trail switches from dirt and rock to almost entirely rock. In fact the slope and the trail look so much alike that the Rangers have interspersed cairns every 10 feet or so to guide hikers upwards. On this trip, the sky was turning dark and we felt pressured to get to the top as quickly as possible. Not the best option when trail finding.

The summit of the cone consists of four to five rocky outcroppings. The hiker can choose to climb to the highest, which is located to the southwest, or scramble up the closest. On this trip we chose this option again because of the threatening weather. The views are just as grand no matter your choice.

View from the summit

Insider Tip: When descending pay close attention to the junction between Storm Pass and the Estes Cone Trail. This junction is relatively clear going up but not obvious heading down. On the decent, there is a large pine tree blocking the view of an extremely large cairn that marks the spot. Before the tree, Storm Pass shoots off to the left so it is easy to get sucked off in the wrong direction. To continue to the Longs Peak trailhead, you have to go around the tree, around the cairn and up a trail on which the trail signs face away from the descender. Not ideal.

Everyone should climb Estes Cone at least once. The perspective gained of Meeker and Longs, which normally blend into one large massif, is enlightening. The twisted shapes of the pines on the upper slopes of the cone will have you looking for ogres while the summit does have some stellar views.

Storm brewing over Trailridge Road

There are two ways to get to Estes Cone, one is from the Longs Peak trailhead and the other from Lilly Lake trailhead via Storm Pass. The Longs Peak Trailhead is located on the west side of Highway 7 between Allenspark and Estes Park. Beware, parking is very limited fills up early (as in 1AM) in the summer mountain climbing season.

Mt. Bierstadt

Trail Length: 7 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,669-14,060 ft
Elevation gain: 2,850 ft
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Critters: Big Horn Sheep
Tags: #14er, #coloradooutdoors, #nooxygen

Left to right, Mt. Evans (14,264 ft) and Mt. Bierstadt (14,060 ft) as seen from the Square Top trail. This photo is mine. The rest in this post are courtesy of Lynn Johnson.

Mt. Bierstadt, near Georgetown CO, is one of the easiest 14K ft peaks to hike. Its proximity to Denver, and the lush views Guanella Pass make it doubly popular. Guanella Pass is notorious for sudden thunderstorms, however, so be sure to check the weather before planning your ascent.

The trail begins at the pass itself and descends into a narrow valley filled with willows. This area is boggy and depending upon the condition of the boardwalks, may be wet and slimy. Things get serious after the willows when the trail climbs up to a broad shoulder. The views here make it a worthy destination in itself for those interested in a shorter hike. The shoulder is a wide area for ideal for picnicking and people watching. A favorite pastime is holding up score cards measuring the lung capacity of climbers as they crest over the shoulder. You'll see everything from small children to trail runners using Beirstadt to train for the Leadville 100. When no one is looking, do your best Julie Andrews imitation and twirl around. At high altitude motion sickness takes on a whole new meaning.

Big Horn Sheep on the road to the pass

The more able bodied will want to continue up the trail which rises steeply into the distance. It is rocky so consider hiking poles for added stability. Insider tip: "view breaks" are a great way to catch your breath while admiring the increasingly expansive views of the Continental Divide.

Looking down on the shoulder

Climbers get a nice break on the upper ridge which is flat but full of scree. Take your time crossing. A twisted ankle at this point would make getting down a challenge. The final cone of scree is a jumble and hikers just find their way from rock to rock with little coherence.

Looking down on Square Top Lakes and Square Top Mountain

We were lucky on this trip and the weather was beautiful. We stayed on the summit for over an hour just gawking at the rolling green hills below us. I have been chased off of Guanella so many times by lightening that I have developed a neurotic paranoia about the place but this day there was barely a wisp of a cloud. I still eyed them carefully because Guanella is notorious for brewing storms at explosive rates.

Looking up at the final cone of scree

From the summit, Mt. Evans feels like it is within spitting distance and you can see all the tourists who drove up to that summit. "Look Vern there are mountain climbers over there!" With more time and a car shuttle, you can cross the saw tooth that connects the two peaks and bag two in one day. I have several friends who have done this and say it is easier than it looks and well worth doing.

View from the summit looking west.

So, for those of you who have never climbed a 14er, give Mt. Bierstadt a try. It is an easy walk up but will require you to have gotten off the couch in the last year. Some scrambling is required in the scree field so bring your gloves as well. Do it like I did and take the day off of work to avoid the crowds and meditate on why we love living in Colorado.

Ceran St. Vrain

Distance: 3.85 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,365 ft - 8,105 ft
Elevation Gain: 260 ft (gain on the trip back)
Dogs: Off Leash

St. Vrain Creek

Ceran St.Vrain near Jamestown, CO (northwest of Boulder) is a short but relaxing trail through a pleasant mixed Lodgepole and Spruce forest with lots of water action to get your Zen on. Dogs are allowed off leash, which is a blessing for those of us with hunting dogs that need to run. The trail gets its name from Ceran St.Vrain, an 1800's resident who was know for building forts along several creeks in the area.

The trailhead. There is a large parking area and a nice place to picnic near the creek off to the left.

A few yards from the trailhead is a quaint bridge over the creek

At the beginning of the trail is a primitive campground so be prepared for the intoxicating smell of camp delectables cooking over a wood fire. The trail itself is packed dirt and pine needles, a welcome respite from the rocky terrain that blesses most of the Front Range. 

There are many views of the creek from the trail

In contrast to the mountains that provide the water that fills St. Vrain Creek, the trail heads downwards for a gradual loss of 200 ft. Where the trail ends is subjective since it seems to run into a series of 4x4 roads. You'll know this because the trail widens a bit and there may be a signs for roads 801 and 252. One of these leads to Miller Rock, but finding it can be a chore. 

A typical trail section. Notice the lush vegetation and the nice soft trail.

The only downside of this trail is that it is up past Jamestown. This route is a mecca for hordes of cyclists who use the steep climbs to train for even harder events. While I am all for sharing the road, it can be unnerving to dodge and weave around these unpredictable two-wheeled demons.

The forested areas are open and appealing

To get to the trailhead, travel 5.5 miles north of Boulder on Highway 36 to Lefthand Canyon. Turn left on and drive 8.4 miles to Jamestown. Continue through the town and be sure to follow the posted speed limits. After Jamestown, the road becomes Overland Rd and will transition to dirt road 4.5 miles beyond the town. Avoid the left fork at this point and continue approximately 0.5 miles to the trailhead on the right.