Mt. Bierstadt

Trail Length: 7 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,669-14,060 ft
Elevation gain: 2,850 ft
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Critters: Big Horn Sheep
Tags: #14er, #coloradooutdoors, #nooxygen

Left to right, Mt. Evans (14,264 ft) and Mt. Bierstadt (14,060 ft) as seen from the Square Top trail. This photo is mine. The rest in this post are courtesy of Lynn Johnson.

Mt. Bierstadt, near Georgetown CO, is one of the easiest 14K ft peaks to hike. Its proximity to Denver, and the lush views Guanella Pass make it doubly popular. Guanella Pass is notorious for sudden thunderstorms, however, so be sure to check the weather before planning your ascent.

The trail begins at the pass itself and descends into a narrow valley filled with willows. This area is boggy and depending upon the condition of the boardwalks, may be wet and slimy. Things get serious after the willows when the trail climbs up to a broad shoulder. The views here make it a worthy destination in itself for those interested in a shorter hike. The shoulder is a wide area for ideal for picnicking and people watching. A favorite pastime is holding up score cards measuring the lung capacity of climbers as they crest over the shoulder. You'll see everything from small children to trail runners using Beirstadt to train for the Leadville 100. When no one is looking, do your best Julie Andrews imitation and twirl around. At high altitude motion sickness takes on a whole new meaning.

Big Horn Sheep on the road to the pass

The more able bodied will want to continue up the trail which rises steeply into the distance. It is rocky so consider hiking poles for added stability. Insider tip: "view breaks" are a great way to catch your breath while admiring the increasingly expansive views of the Continental Divide.

Looking down on the shoulder

Climbers get a nice break on the upper ridge which is flat but full of scree. Take your time crossing. A twisted ankle at this point would make getting down a challenge. The final cone of scree is a jumble and hikers just find their way from rock to rock with little coherence.

Looking down on Square Top Lakes and Square Top Mountain

We were lucky on this trip and the weather was beautiful. We stayed on the summit for over an hour just gawking at the rolling green hills below us. I have been chased off of Guanella so many times by lightening that I have developed a neurotic paranoia about the place but this day there was barely a wisp of a cloud. I still eyed them carefully because Guanella is notorious for brewing storms at explosive rates.

Looking up at the final cone of scree

From the summit, Mt. Evans feels like it is within spitting distance and you can see all the tourists who drove up to that summit. "Look Vern there are mountain climbers over there!" With more time and a car shuttle, you can cross the saw tooth that connects the two peaks and bag two in one day. I have several friends who have done this and say it is easier than it looks and well worth doing.

View from the summit looking west.

So, for those of you who have never climbed a 14er, give Mt. Bierstadt a try. It is an easy walk up but will require you to have gotten off the couch in the last year. Some scrambling is required in the scree field so bring your gloves as well. Do it like I did and take the day off of work to avoid the crowds and meditate on why we love living in Colorado.

Square Top Mountain

Distance: 7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,670 ft - 13,794 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,124 ft (net) ~2,900 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 September, 2012
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #peakbagging, #gearguide

View from the summit of Square Top Mountain

Square Top Mountain (13,794 ft) is a high 13er directly across from Mt. Beirstadt off of Guanella Pass Colorado. The only trail on this journey is the approach to its base, via Square Top Lakes. From the lakes on, climbing Square Top Mountain it is a tundra and talus bushwhack. This is great fun for those who like to have the mountains to themselves but less fun to those who consider going off trail an invitation to a thousand painful deaths.

A rough schematic of the route

The trailhead.  Square Top Mountain can be seen in the distance.

The other challenging feature of Square Top Mountain, besides the terrain, is the weather. Guanella Pass is a thunderstorm magnet and I have come close to experiencing painful death number 46: the gods are pissed at YOU... at both Silver Dollar Lake as well as Square Top Lakes. It is amazing how motivated you can be to get the hell out of dodge when the heavens open up above treeline. So, rather than just the perennial early start, I would recommend saving Square Top Mountain for one of those rare, cloudless days when you can spend all day on the mountain without fear of divine retribution. Bushwhacking is time consuming and the mountain scenery alluring so give yourself time to enjoy the experience.

Heading across the first valley

Guardian Marmot

The trailhead for Square Top Mountain is located on Guanella Pass itself. Park in the west side lot, which is the overflow for Mt. Beirstadt. You can see the east face of Square Top Mountain from the parking area. As you follow the trail for two miles to lower Square Top Lake, the route will descend 100 ft into a valley before ascending and descending again over a several small ridges that block the view of the lake from the trail. The only vegetation in this tundra environment is Willows and the occasional stunted Sub-alpine Fir.

Approaching the lake

Lower Square Top Lake

Once you see the lake, continue past it on the left for another two tenths of a mile to a trail junction up a short slope. This junction serves upper Square Top Lake (to the right), the South Park 600 Trail (to the left), and Square Top Mountain (straight up). There is an actual sign pointing up the mountain. From this point on, however, you are on your own. How you reach the summit is up to you.

Trail sign pointing up the mountain

Looking up to the first shelf

The funny thing about bushwhacking is what looks good on the topo map and what looks good on the ground can be two different things. It seemed straight forward to head up the mountain in the direction pointed to by the trail sign, but after the first shelf, which was covered in quartz rocks, I realized I would be better off heading southwards and upwards at an angle. I actually ran into two hikers coming down that way and they gave me the best piece of advice. "Go around the mountain to the south and stay well below the summit ridge until you have to pop up", they said. This turned out to be the way to go.

Approaching the first shelf

Looking down from the first shelf

While taking an angled traverse is hard on the ankles, I found there were plenty of flat spots that one could traverse between to give them a bit of a break. Once I got around the mountain I could see the summit ridge stretching off into the distance. The summit of Square Top Mountain might be square, but it is far from flat. Much like fins on the back of a dragon, there are larges piles of boulders placed periodically along the spine of the ridge. These would be a tedious, mind numbing experience if taken all at once.  Don't walk that summit ridge.

Looking up at the initial  angled traverse

A close up of the tundra

As it was, a large river of talus on the southern slope made me pop up sooner than expected.  I was not worried, however, because I thought the large pile of boulders just above was the summit. Oh foolish mortal! There were at least three more false summits (e.g. dragon fins) between me and the summit. Unless you are a member of Cirque du Soliel, and can bounce effortlessly from jagged rock to jagged rock, you will find this last bit of the route time consuming.  Another good reason to wait until a sunny day!

Looking back down from the southern side of the mountain

Just below the summit ridge

Because the summit of Square Top Mountain is so long, the views are not as dramatic as you find on other peaks. You have to walk around to look over the sides. Since I never trust the weather on Guanella Pass, I decided not wander but headed down after a quick snack. This was a prudent choice...by the time I reached the car, the Gods had awoken. Woe to the few hikers I passed heading upwards towards Square Top Lakes. At least today they would be pissed at someone else.

I thought that bump on the horizon was the summit.  The summit is actually multiple bumps  ahead. 

That bump on the horizon is still not the summit.

My decent of the mountain was totally different than the ascent. Things look different coming down as well! I ended up finding some cairns and followed them but they came very close to the sheer cliff of the cirque that contains Upper Square Top Lake. Once again, the fun of bushwhacking is finding your own way. To be safe, however, I would bring along a GPS, a topo map, and a cell phone. At one point I phoned home with my GPS coordinates since no one would have a clue where to starting looking for me on the broad slopes well away from the "obvious route". 

Finally, the summit comes in view

Looking at Grays (14,270 ft) and Torreys (14,267 ft) from the summit

I saw a couple of Mountain Goats below me on the ascent and a large gorilla-sized Marmot below the lakes. I think being cuddled by an overly large marmot is painful death #238 but I will have to check the list and get back to you. 

Looking down on Murray Lake from the summit

The author on the summit

Square Top Mountain is not the first mountain I would recommend in Colorado. There are certainly many nicer ones. Mt. Flora across I-70 on Berthoud Pass is a must do. Still, if you are like me and hate the fact that there are peaks nearby that you have not visited, you will find Square Top Mountain beckoning at some point.

Heading back down