Loch Vale + Mills Lake Snowshoe

Distance: 5.4 miles round trip (4.4 round trip to the Loch Vale only)
Elevation: 9,200 ft - 9,940 ft (Mills Lake), 10,258 ft (Loch Vale)
Elevation Gain: 1,137 ft (Loch Vale) 1,400 ft (both lakes)
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: Not allowed, National Park

Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #snowshoe, #rmnp, #winter

Loch Vale in Rocky Mountain National Park 

Mills Lake

If your mother was a Yeti, then you'll enjoy snowshoeing in Rocky Mountain National Park. I don't know what it is about this area, but while skiers on the other side of the Continental Divide can be basking in blue skies and mild conditions, snowshoers in the park will be blessed with churning vortices of snow that mask the peaks and drive all but the hardiest into hibernation.

Parking lot at Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park

To add to the fun, the winter trails in this part of the park are very different from the summer trails and unmarked to boot. Do not attempt this unless someone has already forged a trail for you or you are really good at reading terrain. Examine the map below. The summer trail is marked on the map as a grey line while the winter trail is indicated with red arrows. The trick is finding the location of where the two split from each other.

Terrain map showing the summer trail (grey line) and the winter route (red arrows). 

The summer trail, for those who have done it, winds up a series of switchbacks and then skirts along a shelf looking down into Glacier Gorge until Glacier Junction, the intersection of the trails for Loch Vale, Mills Lake and Lake Haiyaha. The winter trail skips this entirely. It starts out following a drainage, turns left around East Glacier Knob before arriving at Glacier Junction (at 1.4 miles). From this point the winter trail to Mills Lake is close to the summer trail. The route to the Loch Vale however stays in the drainage and actually climbs up what is a waterfall in summer.

Starting out

Once off the summer trail and onto the drainage, the route wanders in and out of trees. It is strange to think there may actually be 10 feet of snow between you and the frozen stream below. As the season warms, sink holes form above the water creating the opportunity to fall in without a trace.

Rock face

Starting out in the trees

On this trip we went to the Loch Vale first (2.2 miles one way), so after hitting Glacier Junction, we turned right at the hitching post, barely visible in the drifts, and headed up the lake's drainage. This part of the route is a calf-killing climb in the best of years but earlier in the season or in a season with little snow, can be death defying. March is a great time to do this route because there is generally more snow and the temperatures are not so daunting.

Parts of the route can be very thick with snow

Along the sides of the drainage, icicles the size of surf boards dangle from the walls. This is not a route suited for skiers, however, who may find the steepness and vicinity of bone crushing protuberances a bit risky.

Heading up the waterfall

Climbing over the lip of the drainage/waterfall is a life changing experience. In early winter the lake is host to preternatural winds that will freeze the eyeballs in your head and they hit you the moment you arrive. It is still another hundred and fifty yards to the edge of the lake, so have your baklavas and goggles handy. If you are lucky, you'll see the lake and not remain frozen there until spring. If you are not lucky you will assume the lake is there and beat a hasty retreat. Be advised that as cold as it is, the water near the shore may or may not be totally frozen. On at least two trips we rescued hapless snowshoers who had fallen through the ice.

The Loch Vale on a typically lovely day in winter.

The return route is straight back down the drainage, which is amazingly steep in retrospect. Near the bottom veer off to the right and search for the large frozen waterfall that hangs precipitously over the cliff face. The ice here is large, usually tainted brown, and braced by a slope of deep snow. Bushwhacking in deep snow may be required but the view will be worth it.

Climbing up to the frozen waterfall 

To get to Mills Lake, retrace your steps to Glacier Junction and then follow the other tracks away from your original route. Again, this is not a place to get lost in so hopefully someone else will have tracked the route in advance.

Frozen Mills Lake

What I like about Mills Lake in winter is the pile of driftwood that covers is lower end. These skeletal remains lie tumbled amid drifting snow, a harsh and picturesque reminder of the severity of nature. Think of the Elk, the deer, and the Marmot, existing upon that frozen tableau, and then think about your heating blanket, double espresso maker, and fire place. Count your blessings that you are a Primate!

Frozen logs at the end of Mills Lake

The soul needs a reboot once in a while; so don’t let my description deter you from venturing out on this lovely trail. It is a unique experience. Just take care that the trails are tracked and that you are prepared for changing weather conditions.

Mills Lake

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,240 ft-9,940 ft
Elevation Gain: 700 ft
Critters: Hordes of Tourists

Mills Lake

I often neglect poor Mills Lake as I blow past it on my way to Black Lake. It is a destination in and of itself for many of the tourists who visit Rocky Mountain National Park every year. At five miles it is not a killer but it provides some level of bragging rights for the hordes of Texans and other flatlanders that descend on the park every year.

(On the left: Typical Trail Segment). This year we ended up at Mills Lake by default because the trail to Black Lake was still covered in snow. I am beginning to sound like a broken record every time I say that this season…sigh.

The trail to Mills Lake begins at the park’s shuttle park-n-ride across from the Glacier Gorge Campground. Don’t even bother heading up to the trailhead yourself unless you are willing to fight for a spot and be situated by 6 AM. This shuttle park-n-ride is a significant improvement to the park. Its expansion was completed sometime back in 2004 along with an 8.2M rework of Bear Lake Road. The one downside of the park-n-ride is that there is no water, so fill up before you come. If you start early enough, the wait time for a shuttle will be less. Due to some folks who got lost on their way to the park, we ended up getting on the shuttle an hour later than expected (around 11 AM). The hordes had arrived and there was a very long line of tourists waiting for their glimpse of Alberta Falls. Be prepared to embrace, literally, your fellow man if you arrive late.

Ok, I am snobbish about Rocky Mountain National Park. Hike more than 3 miles up a trail and the number of people you will see falls off exponentially. Most visitors never make it to Black Lake, Sky Pond, Flat Top, Hallet Peak, or Andrew’s Tarn. These are all worthy destinations if you can stand being part of the herd at the beginning.

(On the right: Entering Glacier Gorge). Once at the Glacier Gorge trailhead, the route to Mills Lake climbs quickly on a wide National Park-like trail. If you are only going to Mills be sure to spend a little time at Alberta Falls. Again, I tend to blow past it on my way up and this time was the first time I had actually climbed up the rocks near the falls. This year’s runoff is amazing and the falls are spectacular, albeit at an angle so you never get a full frontal view of them.

Beyond Alberta Falls the trail continues upwards with some expansive views down the valley. It then enters Glacier Gorge itself, which on this trip felt like a line at Disney Land there were so many people plodding up its narrow shelf. Take a moment to stop watching the rocks at your feet here. The gorge is something to remark.

The trail will come to a junction a mere 0.5 miles from the lake. You can pop up to the Loch Vale from here or continue to Mills. Doing both in one day would certainly be doable. From this junction, the trail is relatively flat on its way to the lake.

View from the far end of Mills Lake

There are several things to note at Mills Lake. On the right just as you come up is a sheer wall of rock that drips with water, stains, and mosses. Nearby is a field of dead trees, which make a stark landmark for the lake in winter. A little farther on is a very large flat rock suitable for a large group lunch. One would think the ever-industrious Park Service put this rock there but alas it was the far more industrious Mother Nature. In the distance you will see a large boulder perched near the water. This glacial remnant seems to have a magnetic quality. You will see a swarm of anglers and small children orbiting its sphere of influence.

The trail continues around the left side of the lake and a stroll to its end will reveal the plateau that holds Black Lake. Unless you are just looking for the quintessential picnic spot, do wander along the lake. Your legs will enjoy the additional exercise and the views will be rewarding.

Looking down on Bear Lake Road

I gained a new appreciation for Mills Lake on this trip. It is amazing how your perspective can change when you stop to linger and admire what is around you instead of viewing all these million dollar views as just a means to an end.