Golden Gate Canyon State Park: Black Bear-Horeshoe Loop

Distance: 5.6 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,180 ft - 9,379 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,516 (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: No (closest is the visitor's center)
Dogs: On leash (State Park)
Date Hiked: 7 Sept 2014
Tags: #coloradostatepark, #goldengatecanyon

Rocks, pine, and lots of sky dominate the Black Bear Trail in Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Golden Gate Canyon State Park near Golden, CO is filled with numerous and varied hiking options...often on the same route. The Black Bear-Horseshoe Loop is a perfect example. Uphill, downhill, rock scrambles, and open meadows are just some of the features I encountered. The park has an amazing backcountry feel even though it is within spitting distance of the city.

The loop described here ascends the Black Bear Trail, turns right onto the Mule Deer Trail, continues past the Horseshoe Trail to a spur that goes through Greenfield Meadow, then down the Horseshoe Trail to a connector that goes back to the Ralston Roost parking area.

The route starts directly across from the Ralston Roost parking lot on a small dirt track. The first 0.34 miles is very steep and rocky with an immediate 215 ft of elevation gain. Like most of the route, it alternates between Ponderosa Pine, open grasslands, and small clumps of Aspen.

The start of the Black Bear Trail

Much of the early route is open Ponderosa Pine

At 1.0 and 1.3 miles are two viewpoints. The first is more of a jumble of rocks, while the second is a broad shelf looking down on the pastoral beauty of several ranches. From this point the trail begins to descend a bit and then gradually increases again to the highest point on the route at 2.0 miles. The route to this spot goes through a large pile of boulders (trail signs guide the way), and across a narrow strip of land where fins of knee-high rock extrude like scales on a dragons back. When the trees thin, you can see Mt. Evans as well as Grays and Torreys in the distance.

Looking down from the first view point. That is Golden Gate Canyon Road.

Can you spot the hiker in this photo? The trail goes around the boulder.

From the high point, the trail descends through Lodgepole Pine to the junction with the Mule Deer Trail at 2.6 miles. At this point the trail is wide and sandy. Don't get sucked off onto the spur trail to several campsites, which is 20 yards or so before the junction.

Route finding through the boulders

Looking down on ranch land

We chose to continue on the Mule Deer Trail past the connection with the Horseshoe Trail (at 3 miles) to a lesser used trail that travel down towards Greenfield Meadow and several more backcountry campsites (see map). Just before the Horseshoe Trail is a very large meadow whose tall grasses could have hidden an entire herd of Mule Deer. A small cabin and interpretive site marks the spot. The meadow was a Pleistocene paradise, a testament to the 2014 rains and our ever changing climate.

Walking across the dragons back

Now on the shady Mule Deer Trail

Getting to our turnoff for Greenfield Meadow involved switching from a single track through Aspen to a large dirt road. The transition was unexpected and we looked around a bit before proceeding. The trail to the campsites splits off from Mule Deer Trail only 0.3 miles beyond the Mule/Horseshoe so we eventually found the junction. A large green sign talking about campsites exists at a right angle to the road.

Meadow by the Horseshoe junction

Ahead the Mule Deer Trail goes left while the spur trail that becomes a dirt road goes straight.

From this point the trail gets a little rougher as it winds down and through small stands of Aspen. At 4 miles the trail rejoins the Horseshoe Trail. It is more of the same for another mile until the trail connecting back to the Black Bear Trail splits off. This short half mile trail heads uphill again through a dense Lodgepole forest with occasional traverses of open hillsides.

Heading up the dirt road

Heading back down the Horseshoe Trail

Since our dog is getting older and tolerates being on a leash more, I am getting to explore new areas including Golden Gate Canyon State Park. The Aspens in fall are very nice indeed and there are even camping yurts that might be fun to try out. Another long hike to do in the park is the Mountain Lion Trail with a side trip to Windy Peak.

The connector trail leading from the Horseshoe Trail back over to the Black Bear Trail is a total change. It is uphill and in a Lodgepole forest.

Almost back to the parking lot.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park: Raccoon Trail

Distance: 2.7 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,313 ft - 8,889 ft (starts high)
Elevation Gain: 475 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On Leash (State Park)
Date Hiked: 17 August 2014
Tags: #coloradostatepark, #goldengatecanyon

View from Panorama Point, the start of the Raccoon Trail in Golden Gate Canyon State Park

I took my parents on a road trip to Golden Gate Canyon State Park near Golden CO on sunny summer day in the hopes of taking them on a short walk before picnicking. While the Raccoon Trail is one of the "easiest" trails in the park, it turned out to be too rocky and steep for the parental units.

Heading down from the deck

The trail begins to smooth out

For the able bodied however, the Raccoon Trail is a pleasant, if rough, jaunt through varied terrain that is mostly trafficked by families or campers in one of the nearby campgrounds. If you hustle, you can complete it in an hour and still have time to break open the chips and dip.

Junction with the Mule Deer Trail

Emerging from the trees

The Raccoon Trail starts near the wooden deck at Panorama Point, a popular place for weddings, picnics, or fall color leaf-peeping. From this deck visitors can gaze at the Continental Divide all the way from Longs Peak in the north to Pikes Peak in the south.

Grasses and open skies take over

Taking a right turn to head back up the hill

From the deck, the trail descends sharply through a tall coniferous forest and over a series of eroded rocks. At 0.68 miles is the junction with the Mule Deer Trail, which is one of the longest trails in the park. The junctions in the park are well marked with clear names, animal track icons, and laminated maps indicating your location. By this point the trail had smoothed out significantly and I could  have driven a golf cart up the path.

The uphill climb is very eroded in parts

Junction at the top with the Mule Deer Trail. Route goes to the right.

A short distance beyond this point the trail changes microclimates as it begins to parallel a drainage. The trees disappear and thick grasses intrude while the humidity soared. At 1.4 miles is a spur heading off the Reverend's Ridge Campground. The area was so overgrown I almost missed it. The Raccoon Trail continues straight before making a sharp right turn and and heading steeply uphill on another rocky, eroded segment. This area was particularly bad and looked like it might have been damaged in the September 2013 floods.

The best part of the trail, is the last segment along a shelf with stellar views.

This Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel (learn more about these colorful denizens of the forest) wanted to join the party but we said no to feeding the animals.  Besides, I don't share that well!

The hectic ascent moderates slightly until another junction with the Mule Deer Trail (at 2.2 miles). From this point on the route follows a shelf with large rocks and occasional views of the Continental Divide. It comes out in the parking lot near the bathrooms, but technically crosses the pavement back to the deck.

While my parents could not do the trail, I managed to scurry along without them. By the time I returned to the parking area, they had already set up lunch on one of the many picnic tables scattered in the trees. The pine needles were sun-kissed, giving off that vanilla aroma that so reminds me of my childhood in the Sierra Nevadas. While short, the Raccoon Trail is a pleasant diversion. Bring along a lunch, linger, and lounge. There are few worse ways to spend a sunny, summer afternoon.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park: Mountain Lion Trail + Windy Peak

Distance: 8.7 mile loop (7.7 without the Windy Peak add on)
Elevation: 7,646 ft - 9,106 ft (at Windy Peak)
Elevation Gain: 1,460 ft (net) 2,164 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 12 June, 2011
Dogs: On leash only (State Park)
Tags: #coloradostatepark, #goldengatecanyon

The view of Mt. Evans from Windy Peak and the Mountain Lion Trail in Golden Gate Canyon State Park

The Mountain Lion Loop in Golden Gate Canyon State Park near Golden, CO is harder than it looks, but the extra exercise is rewarded by a journey through three different ecosystems, and if you tack on a diversion to the top of Windy Peak (adds an extra mile), some stellar views of the Continental Divide.

Trails are marked with animal track symbols in Golden Gate Canyon State Park and appear on poles such as this. Junctions are well marked with wooden signs and full maps indicating where the hiker is located.

Heading up the initial dry hillside. Most of this route is on soft dirt.

The confusing part of Golden Gate Canyon State Park is the plethora of trailheads, which are really nothing more than pullouts on the side of the road. There are at least three along County Rd 57 (right at the Visitor's Center) that label themselves as Mountain Lion Trail trailheads and none have rest rooms, so plan accordingly. If you find the trailhead on Nott Creek Rd, there is a bathroom and plenty of parking. This is probably the best place to start.

The initial ridge

I traveled the loop in a clockwise direction. Since the hot side of the loop is to the left and the cool Riparian side is to the right, this was a good choice on a hot day. I don't know how the cumulative elevation gain differs if you take the route in a counter-clockwise direction but the net elevation is the same since the destination is Windy Peak no matter which way you travel.

The lake and cabin in Forgotten Valley. Camping is permitted here.

Taken clockwise, the trail heads across an open hillside filled with wildflowers and dotted with Ponderosa Pine. It climbs 443 ft in less than a mile, so it will get your heart rate pumping early. After reaching a ridge at 0.89 miles, the route travels another 0.33 miles until it reaches the junction with the Burro Trail (at 1.23 miles) with the official split happening around 50 yards further up. At 1.97 miles is Forgotten Valley and a pleasant lake and cabin. The day was already getting uncomfortably warm, so I took this opportunity to rest in the shade, dunk my head in the water and wet my bandana.

Leaving the lake and heading up the next valley

After the lake, the route heads up a long valley and then starts up a series of switch backs that gain 500 feet in 1.2 miles. The views of the rolling hills to the south is quite pleasant and would be lovely in the fall when all the leaves are turning. At the top is a saddle (at 3.18 miles) deep in a grove of Lodgepole Pines.

Three quarters of the way up the switchbacks on the way to Windy Peak and looking back down the valley to the tree covered hills deep within the park.

From this point the trail heads sharply downward and looses at least 190 feet before the intersection with the Windy Peak spur at 3.3 miles. From this point it is 0.5 miles to the Peak, which is a series of rocky outcroppings, covered in lounging hikers and voracious chipmunks who scurried to and fro hoping to steal a sandwich from an unsuspecting hand. I am not sure where all the hikers came from, because I was practically alone on my trip up. They may have come up the Burro Trail, which is a more direct route. At this point the cumulative elevation gain was 1,581 ft and I recorded an approximate elevation of 9,173 ft. An more official measurement may be 9,106 ft.

Park of the short but steep trail up to Windy Peak.

The trip down from Windy Peak and to the rest of the Mountain Lion Trail is a long series of switchbacks through a Lodgepole forest. Finally, the route empties into a valley and closely follows the stream, crossing it at least a dozen times. The stream crossings are all on small log bridges. Some of these are in better condition than others. If you don't like narrow crossings, this is not the route for you. It became very tedious after a while.

Hikers lounge on the summit of Windy Peak

A close up of Mt. Evans from the summit

The valley narrows half way down and the walls and their many nooks and crannies encroach on the hiker making the area feel confined, scenic, and wild all at the same time. I confess that I started day dreaming about Mountain Lions in this stretch because there were a thousand places for a Mountain Lion to hang out and watch the trail. I found myself turning around periodically to gaze behind me to see if I was being followed. It did not help that I knew of someone who had been stalked by a Mountain Lion in Golden Gate Canyon State Park. It was not until I got through this section and finally ran into another hiker that my unease dissipated. Was this a sixth sense or mere lone hiker paranoia? I'll never know for sure.

An example of the overgrown and wild Riparian side of the Mountain Lion Trail

Once the route leaves the stream, it climbs again up a broad road to reach the hillside that parallels County Rd 57. This was my least favorite part of the trail. I was overheated, tired, and did not want to ascend any more. From this point it was a seemingly long slog until I reached the trailhead at Nott Creek Rd (at 8.3 miles) and then had to travel an additional half mile to my car (at 8.7 miles).

A photo of the most deteriorated stream crossing. I ended up taking the lowest log on the left, which was several feet lower than the others and used the other logs to brace myself as I crossed.

Looking back up the route after regaining the hillside. I believe the route comes down the left cleft on the distant hillside.

Despite the length, I really liked this hike. It was so varied that it was impossible to get bored. I chose to do it on a very hot day and only had 1.5 litres of water with me. I chose this amount partially because the park advertises this loop at 6.2 miles. My GPS recorded it as 8.7 miles, including the add on to Windy Peak. Had I known this in advance, I would have carried more. Water weighs a lot and I have gotten in the habit of carrying just enough.

Continuing along the final stretch to the trailhead at Nott Creek

This Colorado State Park is a pleasant oasis close to Denver and yet worlds away. The drive to the park itself is scenic and the many trails in the park allow for varied adventures of all levels and for all sorts of visitors. Check it out if you get the chance.

The views of the hills to the east from the final stretch. This hike was pleasant indeed.