Harpers Corner

Distance: 2.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 7,574 ft
Elevation Gain: 300 ft
Dogs: No allowed, National Monument
Bathroom at trailhead: No
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #hiking, #geology, #scenicviews, #findyourpark

Steamboat Rock and the convergence of the Yampa and Green Rivers

Harpers Corner in the Colorado side of the Dinosaur National Monument is a short nature trail across a narrow isthmus to one of the most stunning desert views in the state. From this lofty promontory, the convergence of the Yampa and Green Rivers appear far below along with the white canyons they have carved across the millennia.

You have to really want to visit Harper's Corner however. The Dinosaur National Monument exists in the far northwestern corner of the state. It is "out there". The nearest town to stay in is Rangley, which is 20 miles from the entrance station and then it is a long 31 miles from the entrance to the trailhead. We were in the area to attend the Meeker Dog Trials and so it made sense to add Dinosaur to the menu.

Faulting is evident in these vertical rock layers

The trail to the view point descends from the get go and winds through Pinon Pines with growing views of the canyon floor. There are a couple of places where the trail is perilously close to the abyss, but there are plenty of trees to grasp if vertigo strikes.

The destination is a broad flat area with comforting fences along the edges. Echo Park, which can be reached by a long dirt road, marks the actual convergence itself hidden from view behind round Steamboat Rock.

The other side of the viewpoint gazes down onto "the whirlpool", a section of the Green River that river pioneer John Powell (of Colorado River and Lake Powell fame) disliked in the extreme.

Western side of the Harper's corner overlook showing the Green River and Whirlpool Canyon

The true star of the show, however is the sedimentary world brought into dramatic relief by the rivers themselves. Up the Green River Canyon (to the left) are five separate layers of sedimentary rock. Closer to the viewpoint, a large and obvious geologic fault has tilted the rock layers vertical creating a topsey-turvy world that is stunning to see.

Anyone who loves the geological parks in Utah will want to make a pilgrimage to Dinosaur National Monument. In comparison, the views are both unique and informative. The power of water, time, and geological force is so evident, it can't help but make you want to run out and get a geology degree.

One should note that at one point the powers that be were going to dam the rivers in this area, which would have buried all of this scenery under a wall of water. Instead, the dam was built upstream at Flaming Gorge. This was a near miss in the continual battle between the need of man for water storage in a dry world and the natural world such storage inevitably changes.

Yampa River "bench"

Be advised that this area is a high desert and lows temperatures can compete with Barrow Alaska. As such the road itself is closed in winter and may not open until June.

Chihuahua Lake

Distance: 8.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,460 ft - 12,282 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,822 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Tags: #coloradooutdoors, #hiking, #mountainlake
Nearby hikes: Lenawee, Argentine Pass

The deep blue waters of Chihuahua Lake

Chihuahua Lake near Keystone, CO in Summit County is a large glacial tarn nestled at the base of Grizzly Peak. The trail to the lake is not for soft paws however, being very rocky and filled with deep water crossings even in late summer. Additionally, the last pitch to the lake is a steep rock scramble requiring both agility and perseverance. The reward for those strong enough is a stunning view of the back side of Grays and Torreys and a pristine lake filled with deep indigo waters.

Heading up the lower portion of the jeep road

Passing a large boulder field

The first 2.7 miles of the trail follows Forest Service Road 263 and you will not be alone on this segment. I was quite surprised at the number of vehicles that passed us both coming and going because this is a road only for the hardiest of drivers. Because of this traffic, the road is very rocky and rutted which makes for a jarring experience.

First stream crossing. This plank leads to a round log half way across. 

This road crosses Chihuahua Creek twice (at 1.2 and 2.0 miles) and in both cases, the water is deep, even in late summer. After seeing the extent of the beaver activity throughout the valley, I doubt the creek ever dries out. Water shoes and a pole are a must unless you don't mind wet feet. At the lower crossing, someone had tried to put a plank across to a large fallen log in an improvised bridge, but this structure will not survive next spring's run off. At the upper crossing, there were a few rocks that the more nimble were able to navigate. I found myself slipping off them into the water anyway.

Rutted section of the jeep road

In addition to these stream crossings, there are several places where the road itself is habitually flooded. Short social trails into the willows avoid the deepest areas but others require more slogging through bogs.

Gray and Torreys comes into view

At 2.7 miles the jeep road ends at a small parking area with a wooden fence and small sign pointing upwards. Technically, this is the start of the trail, but only true 4x4s can make it to this point. For the next half mile, the trail struggles relentlessly upwards on a steep and highly eroded path reminiscent of an approach to a 14er. This segment ends at a narrow tundra shelf surrounded on both sides by barren peaks.

Soggy section

Saddle between Grizzly  and Torres Peaks

The trail continues eastward along this shelf before turning sharply upwards on the last scramble to the lake. As you approach this area, it is difficult to tell where to leave the flat and head upwards. Several narrow, eroded drainages pour down the hillside and look like a trails. Fortunately, two people were ahead of us and we followed them to the far eastern side of the valley where the grade is less vertical. Careful scouting will reveal the route that is mostly over scree but occasionally dirt. The last 100 yards is very steep, often requiring the use of hands to pull oneself upwards. Anyone with moderate fitness can navigate this section without difficulty if they take care to keep from sliding down in the loose dirt.

Trail sign and wooden fence

Heading up rocky segment to final shelf

After the scramble, the trail continues upwards for another quarter mile before cresting on a high cliff overlooking the lake. A journey down to the water requires additional scrambling down a passable gully.

Looking back down the valley and beaver ponds below

Torreys and Grays are even closer now

Chihuahua Lake has been on my do list for a long time. I never seemed to be around at the end of the season when I had assumed the water crossings would be more manageable. Now I know that they will most likely always be there, so you just have to plan accordingly. The obstacles, while annoying, are not particularly difficult to surmount and the views of Grays and Torreys are something to behold. The saddle between Grizzly Peak and Torreys is so small and easily scaled that it makes you want to run up to the summit and down again in a fit of joy.

On the final pitch before the lake

Chihuahua Lake

To get to the trailhead, take exit 205 off of I-70 (Silverthorne/Dillon) and travel east on highway 6 toward Keystone. Just past Keystone, turn right onto Montezuma Road (County Road 5). Follow Montezuma Road for approximately 4.6 miles and turn left onto Peru Creek Road (FSR 260). Follow Peru Creek Road for approximately 2.1 miles and park along the side. The only marker that you have reached the parking area is a small brown sign on the road to the left with the number 261 on it. Other cars will be your biggest clue. Peru Creek road is passable with a passenger car to this point but can be rutted and full of washboards.