New Mexico: Kitchen Mesa

Distance: 4.23 ft round trip with side trips
Elevation: 6,498 ft - 7,100 ft
Elevation Gain: 602 ft (net), 1,054 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 25 October 2014
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes in the registration area
Fees: $5.00/person
Tags: #newmexico #hiking #georgiaokeeffe #entradasandstone

Pedernal Mountain from the top of Kitchen Mesa. Pedernal was painted by Georgia O'Keeffe so many times she became its spiritual owner. 

The Kitchen Mesa hike out of the Ghost Ranch in northern New Mexico is a superlative journey to the top of an Entrada sandstone monolith reminiscent of the national parks in Utah. The route passes by a dinosaur quarry, through a desert valley, up a class 2 rock chimney, and along a high ridge with views as far as the eye can see.

Split of the Box Canyon trail and the Kitchen Mesa trail

Heading into the valley

Crossing the quarry

Ghost Ranch was the home of the painter Georgia O'keeffe. It is now a retreat center used for weddings and conferences. There are several museums on site. The physical address is 1708 Highway 84, Abiquiu, NM. It is located 40 miles west of Espanola on U.S. 84 between mile markers 224 and 225. You'll need to drive to the main building and pay the daily entrance fee before heading out to the trailhead.

Typical lower section trail segment...Sagebrush and grasses

The trail consists of two parts. The lower section travels through Sagebrush and grasses with views of the towering Entrada sandstone cliffs. A short but steep section goes over the red hill where the famous Coelophysis fossil was discovered. This quarry is now a National Historic Landmark. Interpretive signs provide a little more information about this dinosaur.

Looking back down the valley

Heading up to the rock chimney

Climbing the rock chimney

The upper section begins at 1.2 miles (573 ft gain) via a 15 ft rock chimney that is doable for anyone with modest fitness and the ability to use both hands and feet. From the top of the chimney, cairns guide the way to the actual end of the mesa, which looks down on the ranch.

Following the rock cairns 

On top of the mesa heading towards the end

Skeleton of a tree on the top of the mesa

The route to the end of the mesa travels through sparse Juniper and Pine with many social trails to the edges. The soil underfoot changes as you cross several different sedimentary layers. The layer near the end is a sharp, white composite that looks like snow but feels like a bed of nails.

Looking down into the haze

Looking down onto the ranch

Hiking Kitchen Mesa is a great way to explore the jagged and colorful O'Keeffe country.  O'Keeffe captures the emotional impact of the area in a way that no camera can. Colors blend into smooth lines. Definition is reduced but the beautiful New Mexico scenery remains.

Gerald's Tree by Georgia O'Keeffe captures the essence of a Juniper skeleton

Wheeler Lake

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,980 ft - 12,162 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,182 ft
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
No Dogs: Off Leash
Date Hiked: 14 August 2010
Updated: 28 September 2015
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking #breckenridge #mountainlake

A hiker lounges at Wheeler Lake near Breckenridge

Wheeler Lake near Breckenridge is a high alpine lake surrounded by the lofty peaks of Mt. Lincoln (14,286 ft), Mt. Democrat (14,148 ft), and North Star Mountain (13,614 ft). The "trail" follows a jeep road with heavy 4x4 traffic. As such the route is very rough, with large loose rocks that are hard to walk on. There are also large road ponds that never seem to dry out. As a consequence, hikers have periodically made social trails through the willows on the side of the road.

Montgomery Reservoir

Parking area near the pumping station. The trailhead is around the bend to the left.

Looking up the creek while standing on a metal bridge over the water diversion.  That is North Star Mountain in the distance. 

The trailhead for Wheeler Lake is located on the western side of Montgomery Reservoir on the southern side of Hoosier Pass. If coming from Breckenridge, you will see a dirt road on the right coming towards you. The very sharp entrance to this road is approximately 0.5 miles from the pass itself. Follow the road down to the reservoir and then take the road the travels around it. You can park where a water diversion tunnel enters the lake or continue on the rough, single-lane road around to the back of lake. Near the pumping station is an area for about 15 vehicles. The hike begins up the road toward the large aluminum-sided mining ruin.

Heading up the trail. First stop a large mining ruin.

Another antique

Starting up the rocky road

After the mining ruin, the route rises steadily through trees and occasional vistas until you reach the broad open valley. From this point on the views only get better. Mt. Lincoln dominates the south, Mt. Democrat is located at the end of the valley, and North Star Mountain guards the northern side. All three of these peaks are bare, talus covered massifs. The valley itself is filled with willows that will look stunning in the fall.

Looking up at Mt. Lincoln

Looking down the valley

Typical road pond with social trail off to the right. 

Wheeler Lake is an obvious glacial remnant. It sits atop a broad shelf on the north side of the valley and is obvious from a distance. The road splits on the western side of this shelf with a small two-tire road heading off towards Mt. Democrat and a steep, very rocky road heading up the shelf. This portion of the route is like walking on a stream bed. The rocks are large, round, and filled in with dirt, pebbles, and small streams. Be advised there are several false shelves before the main shelf, which is quite large. The lake itself is nestled at the very back.

View of Mt. Democrat

Stream pouring down from the lake

Road heading up to the lake

The area around the lake is very scenic. On this trip, wildflowers carpeted the meadows surrounding the lake, and a small picturesque stream drifted slowly through a rock garden to the right. Hikers lounged in the sun on several of the broad flat rocks that dotted the shoreline while a large group of 4x4ers chatted by their vehicles. Climbers on the summit of Mt. Lincoln were visible against a startlingly blue sky.

Looking back down the valley

Another view of Mt. Democrat

At the lake. It is a bit if walk after ascending the last shelf. 

Note that while the trip back down the trail is not too difficult, the loose rock can pose a slip hazard. Waterproof boots, poles, and ankle-high boots are recommended. Long pants will also protect from willows.

Rock garden to the right of the lake

Finally, Wheeler Lake (singular) is not to be confused with Wheeler Lakes (plural) near Copper Mountain.

White-margined pussytoes

White-margined pussytoes (Antennaria marginata)

White-margined pussytoes is fairly common in Ponderosa woodlands. It blooms in late spring through early summer.  It gets its name from its resemblance to the bottom of a cat's paw.

Shelf Lake

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,130 ft - 12,000 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,870 ft
CMC Rating: Difficult B
Date Hiked: 9 August 2015
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Off leash
Tags: #coloradooutdoors #hiking  #mountainlake #nature

Shelf Lake

The trail to Shelf Lake, off of Guanella Pass Road,  is a moderate to difficult hike to a scenic alpine tarn bordered on three sides by rocky thirteen thousand foot peaks. In Autumn the route is filled with juvenile but still colorful Aspens. In summer wildflowers dominate. While the trail is rough and rocky, the destination is worth the pain.

Pile of rocks that marks the trailhead

Trail sign, which can not be seen coming up the road, but only after you have passed it.

Getting to the trailhead is a pain of a different sort and may not be worth it for some folks. Lately the road really requires a high-clearance vehicle and angelic patience. It is filled with football-sized rocks and large dips that make it harder to travel more than 1 or 2 miles an hour. That can mean a one hour drive from the turnoff on Guanella Pass. What is amazing is the number of passenger cars that have made the journey to camp in one of the many primitive spots along the way. On this trip we were in a 4x4 truck and it was still agonizingly slow.  I wouldn't bring my passenger car on that road, but many obviously do.

Early trail segment. The route is rocky most of the way.

Early views

If you decide to go, travel north on Guanella Pass Road out of Grant Colorado for seven miles. This dirt road has been under construction since 2013 and mid-week travelers will have additional delays. At Forest Road 119, take a left. At the turn there is a small sign indicating the Cedar Break campground. It is 3.5 miles to a small and very obvious pile of black rocks. There is space on the eastern side of this pile for two cars and some space along the road as well. A nice wood sign marks the beginning of the trail. Note this sign is NOT visible from the road until you pass it and look over your right shoulder.

At 0.75 miles the trails goes very sharply uphill.

Looking back down the valley. Autumn is still several weeks away and the Aspens were startlingly green.

The first half of the route is in the trees with limited views. Sometimes Aspens crackle in the wind and at other times Lodgepole Pine provide shade. There are several stream crossings that will require acrobatic rock hopping. In late August, only one was an issue.

Boulder Field

Back bowl comes into view

At 0.75 miles the trail climbs steeply up an escarpment on a trail filled with loose sand and rock. Having a hiking pole for the descent of this segment would be handy. At 1.2 miles is a very large boulder field followed by a backcountry campground. It was easy to navigate the campground on the way up, but not so easy on the way back. We found ourselves a little to the right of our inbound route on one of the many social trails leading to camp spots. Be prepared to really note the route or wander about a bit. At 1.5 miles is a large open meadow filled with Willows and small ponds.

Heading up to the first shelf

Looking down on the first shelf

Near treeline the route gets very pretty with dwarf Sub-alpine Fir, Blue Spruce, and even Lodgepole Pine. Large swaths of wildflowers exist in every open space. At times the trail wanders through large stands of encroaching Willows. Be careful here. Large rocks loom that may send you pitching head over heels into the shrubbery.

Originally, we thought the lake was straight ahead at the back of the bowl. It is actually several shelves up and to the left.

Wildflowers were still blooming, even in mid August.

The approach to the alpine bowl is deceiving. The lake appears to loom directly ahead when in fact it is located up a series of shelves to the left. As such, last half mile is a long series of switchbacks and false summits. Once on the proper shelf, it is still a short walk to the lake itself.

Heading up the last shelf

Arriving at the lake

There are plenty of dry places to lounge around the lake but few rocks, so early in the season the area may be a soggy experience. Directly ahead is the Continental Divide. Decatur Mountain is a craggy bump on the ridge to the left. While you can't see it, the Argentine Pass Trail is just below the ridge on the other side. From there you can climb Argentine Peak, which is the next peak along the ridge to the right. Finally, Square Top Mountain looms large to the east.

This Mountain Goat family (see the kid following the lead parent), were just white moving dots with the naked eye, but can be seen with a cropped photo taken with a telephoto lens.

Square Top Mountain

While lounging at the lake, we saw a family of Mountain Goats traverse the ridge from left to right. Others have reported similar sightings. Finally, be aware that this area is a thunderstorm magnet. They can be seen building from as far away as Silverthorne when other areas along the Divide are clear.