Nova Scotia Travel Diary: Overview

The far end of Lunenburg Harbor taken from the wharf.

I have just returned from 10 days in Nova Scotia. I decided not to bring my computer and blog as I went but wait until I got home. Being totally unplugged has its advantages. Below is a map of the province. The icons are locations that will be mentioned as I describe the trip.

Nova Scotia is an Atlantic province of Canada and is the second smallest after Prince Edward Island. There are only 32 million people in Canada, a mere 10th of the US population, so words "crowd" and "horde" must be taken with a grain of salt when referring to Nova Scotia.

What surprised us the most was how wooded the area is. All the photos you will see from my trip and others focus on the coastline. Those views exist of course, but there was a lot of driving through trees to get there. With all the hard woods I suspect that fall would be a phenomenal time to visit.

We spent most of our time around Lunenburg. My travel buddy's cousin owns a home there so we had a beautiful and free place to stay. We did take two days to drive up to Cape Breton Island to visit the National Park and drive the Cabot Trail.


View nova scotia in a larger map
We really screwed up in the planning for this trip. We checked the weather forecast a week out and visited several web cams that showed expected fog along the coast. When we got there, the province was suffering under an heat wave with 30°C/90°F weather and 100% humidity. We had to borrow shorts and t-shirts from the house. Five minutes outside and we were soaked through with sweat. Moral of the story, double check the forecast.

The other thing that made this trip interesting was that we got caught in Hurricane Bill, which hit the day we were supposed to fly out. I did not know that hurricanes ever made it that far north.

All of this and more will be described and I present my travel diary. Hopefully, you won't mind this digression from my normal Colorado posts.

Mt. Flora

Distance: 6.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,307ft - 13,132 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,832 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at trailhead: Yes, but TP can be limited

My friend Barbara next to the summit cairn

Hiking Mt. Flora is like a free trip to a Swiss Disneyland with E-ticket views. Listen closely and you may just hear a distant Swiss Horn or some blissed out hiker belting out show tunes from the Sound of Music. Hike this trail at the height of the tundra flower season and you'll know why they named it Mt. Flora. I kept alternating between shoving my nose in the turf and jumping up to admire the vistas. Whiplash is an unexpected hazard on this trail!

Sign at the trail head

The first part of the trail is on a dirt road surround by Spruce and Pine.

The trail itself was mostly packed dirt and the one small rock pile on the route has had steps placed through it. After trudging up Mt. Audubon the day before, I felt like I was levitating up Mt. Flora. I certainly did not need my heavy boots. As mountains go, Mt. Flora is very accessible.

Sign at the beginning of the single track trail

Heading off on the single track trail

The trail up Mt. Flora begins at Berthoud Pass. There is a restroom at the pass, but bring your own supplies. Tourists from far and wide stop here on the way to Winter Park and Steamboat Springs.

Taking a break on the open tundra. The road in the distance is highway 40.

James Peak and the open tundra views

The route begins up a wide dirt road that heads up to the top of Colorado Mines Peak, another 13er, covered in industrial looking buildings. At 0.89 miles (11,700 ft), a small sign appears directing the hiker off the road and onto a single track trail that skirts the peak. This is where the fun really starts. In the distance, looms Long's Peak and the Mummy Range, while all around is the verdant grasses of a nearly empty slope. This is where I started to channel my inner Julie Andrews. What is it about a green field dotted with flowers that makes us all want to start racing across it. I get jealous of the dogs who have the sure footedness to do so without breaking their necks. My middle-aged body would not fare so well.

View from the saddle with Colorado Mines Peak

Looking up to the left from the saddle. This section is steeper than it appears.

After skirting the side of the Colorado Mines Peak, we reached a saddle (1.64 miles, 12,138 ft) with a grab-your-chest-and-gasp view of a hidden lake and valley. While I know that I-70 is just beyond the entrance to this valley and that the area is not wilderness, it still had that feel of discovering something totally new. Flowing green tundra grasses filled the slopes and the small tarn was surrounded by bucolic willows. Leading up the valley was a rivulet of coniferous trees. This spot is a worthy destination in and of itself for those who don't want to climb all the way to the summit.

Looking back on Colorado Mines Peak

Flowers are abundant on Mt. Flora in late July.

To the left of this view is the other side of the saddle. Climbing up this wrinkle in the earth was the most strenuous part of the trip. It was both steep and somewhat slippery with loose dirt, but oh the views. The higher we climbed the more expansive the mountains around us became. Colorado Mines Peak becomes a bump and the Gore Range blends with the Ten Mile Range to form a continuous row of snow dotted mountains from north to south. Additionally, the larger peaks of the Continental Divide (Grays Peak, Torreys Peak, Square Top Mountain, Grizzly Peak, etc) are clearly visible. I am lucky I did not fall off the hillside with all my twisting around to take it all in. At 2.31 miles (12,730 ft) you can finally see the summit.

Higher up the steep section, looking back on Colorado Mines Peak

Views of the Gore Range and the Ten Mile Range kept me turning around.

Don't let this steep section fool you, there is still some distance to travel. A short ridge walk ends at a small pile of boulders and talus. The folks at this mountain Disneyland have made this obstacle trivial by placing convenient flat rocks in the form of steps all through it. Within seconds, we reached the top (2.7 miles, 12,858 ft) for another surprising view down to a valley and its tarn. The whole back side of this area is gorgeous.

Ginger, the wonder dog, takes a VERY RARE break from her continuous and joyful running. Is she as enamored of the flowers as I was or is it Pika droppings that have her smiling?

The rest of the crew catches up. In the far distance is Grays and Torreys, two Front Range 14ers.

From the rock pile, it is only a short 0.5 miles to the summit, which is very obvious. There was a stream of folks coming off the top, but these were the only people we saw, and by the time we settled in with our 360 degree view and our peanut butter sandwiches, we had the place to ourselves.

After the steep section, the summit comes into view (far right bump).

The rock pile

Now in addition to the views already mentioned, one can clearly see Mt. Evans and Mt. Bierstadt to the southeast and James Peak a stones throw away to the north. Looking down the precipitous drop off is tiny Ethel Lake. The summit is wide and broad. We had to wander around a bit to focus on the views in different directions. More tundra plants were growing amongst the rocks and the weather was sublime. Our group must have hung out for over an hour marveling at the world laid out before us. Colorado really is grand.

The surprising view from atop the rock pile

On the summit and looking southwest

If you can't tell by my many superlatives, I really liked Mt. Flora. It is easy and therefore accessible to the average hiker, the views are some of the best I have yet to see in Colorado, and we had the place to ourselves. My witnessing to this wonderful location may spoil it in the future, but I do feel that everyone who lives here should enjoy Mt. Flora at least once. It will fill your soul with gratitude for the wonders of our State and the natural beauty we get to have for free.

A broader view of the seemingly continuous waves of peaks

Alpine Avens (Acomastylis rossii turbinata) on the summit. This flower grows only in the tundra and can be seen from mid-June to early August.

Disneyland comparisons aside, I would be remiss if I did not remind you that Mt. Flora is a mountain above 13,000 ft, which means all the usual precautions apply. Watch the weather, carry water and layers, slap on plenty of sunscreen, and be emotionally prepared for gale force winds.

Moss Champion (Silene acaulis subacaulescens) seems to be the most predominate flower on Mt. Flora. Moss Champion grows only in the tundra and can be seen from late-June to early August. It grows like a carpet in the nooks and crannies of rocks.

Looking down on Ethel Lake

I would suggest looking to climb Mt. Flora in the last two weeks of July. By mid-August many of the flowers are gone. The tundra still has an appeal in the late summer to early fall, but to really commune with everything Mt. Flora can be save it for a mid-summer reaffirmation of life, color, and open sky and don't forget to bring your lederhosen

Heading down

A final goodbye to the flowers of Mt. Flora. This whole hillside was filled with Alpine Avens.

Mountain Harbell

The Mountain Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia) actually grows at all elevations from the Foothills to the Alpine Tundra and last throughout the summer. I have seen it on the Mesa Trail behind NCAR up to treeline on numerous trails. Its bright purple color always makes it a favorite.

Queen's Crown

These pictures represent the first time I have ever seen Queen's Crown (Clementsia rhodantha) in Colorado even though it is in all the flower guides. As it was, this specimen was at the Mt. Goliath Nature Area on Mt. Evans (see my post on the Bristlecone Pines there), so I am not sure if it is planted or natural. In the moist, alpine habitats that this flower prefers, I more commonly see King's Crown. Queen's Crown blooms from in mid-July.

Mt. Audubon

Distance: 8 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,400 ft - 13,233 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,833 ft
Dogs: On leash only...Indian Peaks Wilderness
Date Hiked:  16 July 2009

Mt. Audubon (13,233 ft)

Mt. Audubon is a easy to moderate 13er in the Indian Peaks Wilderness whose rocky trail will make you wish you had taken out stock in Dr. Scholls. Still, on a summer day with no thunderstorms, you may just find yourself blissed out, drunk on Mt. Audubon's Alps-like views. For petal peepers, the Mt. Audubon trail holds many treats from the majestic Columbine to the delicate Alpine Forget-me-not. So I don't neglect mentioning our furry friends I will say that the Mt. Audubon trail seem particularly pleasing to the Pika, which scurried in great numbers among the rocks. Additionally, we saw many Marmot holes, protruding snouts, and even two cat-like specimens frolicking on a snow field. Such delights do bring the hordes, particularly on weekends, so it is best to save Mt. Audubon for a mid-week trek and don't forget to get an early start.

The initial part of the trail is in the trees

The first good view occurs at a switchback near treeline. This is Mitchell Lake.

The trailhead to Mt. Audubon is located in the Brainard Lake recreation area. A U.Ss Federal Parks pass gets you in. Parking at any of the Brainard Lake trail heads can be an adventure so start either early (for Mt. Audubon and Pawnee Pass) or late, for the any of the area's lakes.

Subalpine Fir (Abies lasiocarpa) begin to dominate the flora as the views grow expansive to the west.

In the tundra now. This is the trail junction with Beaver Creek Trail at 1.7 miles.

The first mile of the 4-mile route to the summit is in the trees. Twisted tree roots and voracious gnats can either plague or delight the hiker. The difference depends upon whether one is at the beginning of the hike when moods are euphoric or at the end of the hike when one's feet are aching.

View to the east. There were many more lakes in the Brainard Lake Recreation Area than I knew existed. You can see many of them from the trail.

View looking north into the heart of the Indian Peaks Wilderness

A sharp curve upwards affords a panoramic view of Mitchell Lake and marks a change in topography to more stunted trees. The views increase the higher one climbs. On the southern end of the mountain we were torn between views of forests and lakes to the east, knobby rock piles to the north, and Columbine clusters amongst the rocks to the west. At 1.7 miles is the trail junction with the Beaver Creek Trail. This spot is a perfectly good turn around point for folks who just want to stick their toe in the tundra but have no desire to get totally wet. From this point the trail gets much rockier as it transects the southern end of the mountain and climbs relentlessly but gradually upwards.

View of the summit from one of the switchbacks that head up the short ridge

Some tundra flowers and the summit in the distance

A short series of switchbacks brings one to a small saddle. From the saddle, the trail skirts the northern side of the mountain to a broad plateau at 3.5 miles. Past the turn off to the summit is an incredible view looking up at Paiute Peak (13,012 ft). The view of this jagged hunk of rock with its attendant snow-covered couloirs is precisely why I abuse my body and climb peaks. Filled with woe and such a view will make it seem insignificant. Feeling a little egotistical and such a view will cut you down to size. Either way, it is a great equalizer. The earth, the air, the sun. These are the elemental forces that have awed us since the beginning of human consciousness.

Did I forget to mention the trail is rocky?

The Longs/Meeker Massive. Longs Peak (center) is 14,259 ft and Mt. Meeker (right) is 13,865 ft.

The last 0.5 miles of Mt. Audubon is a chore. It is a very large, mixed scree/talus, and boulder pile. While there are cairns and some worn trails, neither connect in any coherent fashion. I found it easier to stash the camera, pack up my pole and just scramble hand over foot upwards. This area is not particularly dangerous but I frequently ran into shifting rock and caused a milliseconds of anxiety. The right-hand side of the pile is close to that precipitous drop-off overlooking Paiute Peak, so it is advisable to stay to the center or left. For anyone used to climbing 14ers, this last pitch will not be technically difficult. It is just annoying and slow. Coming down is even worse because one's center of gravity is much farther away from the slope.

Looking northwest from the junction with the talus pile into the eastern side of Rocky Mountain National Park.

The rock pile. It goes on for 0.5 miles. The hiker in this picture is standing up. Be prepared to scramble as well.

I was surprised by the summit of Mt. Audubon. It is long and flat but still very rocky. There must have been 9 or more rock shelters scattered along the edge, a testament to the perpetual Indian Peaks winds. We walked to southern edge for our lunch. From here one can see Paiute (13,012 ft), Pawnee (12,943 ft), and Shoshone Peaks (12, 967 ft). These are not smooth edifices, but ragged monsters with seemingly unscaleable sides.

Looking north from part way up the rock pile. That is Longs and Meeker in the distance. They look much smaller in this wide angle shot.

Looking east from someplace on the rock pile. That is a marmot in the rock cleft. Note the view of the hazy plains in the distance.

The best views to the north exist on the upwards slope of the rock pile itself. There one can marvel at the Long's Peak Massif. Meeker, Indian's Head, and Long's herself dominate the skyline, a forbidding hunk of stone. From this angle, it seems like it would be impossible to climb Long's. Many do of course. Mt. Audubon must seem like a mere bump from that summit.

Looking at Paiute Peak and its couloirs from the edge. This picture does not begin to do justice to the magnitude of the view. Paiute dominates and the overwhelming sense of vertigo I felt looking down that 2,000 ft drop made me feel incredibly alive. It was this view that reaffirmed to me while I climb mountains.

Strolling across the summit. It was actually flat here. The summit turned out to be much larger than I anticipated. We headed south for views of the Indian Peaks.

The trail up Mt. Audubon is not technically challenging, but it is a Class II, which means one will need to use one hands periodically. The rockiness of the trail is very similar to what I experienced on Quandary Peak, so in that sense it has the feel of a 14er. Everyone should climb Mt. Audubon. Whether it is a training hike or the culmination of a summer's efforts will depend upon the individual. Either way, prepare to ogle the scenery and don't forget the Ibuprofen, you'll need it!

View from the southern portion of the summit. You can see Pawnee, Navajao, and Shosoni Peaks. Now you can see why the area is called the Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Purple Fringe

You can not appreciate the true beauty of Purple Fringe (Phacelia sericea) unless you get very close to it and notice that instead of being one large flower, it is composed many small flowers. From the vast distance of a hiker's eye to the ground, all these flowers blend in into a giant bottle-scrubber like plant.


I have only seen this flower twice this year. Once was on the Mesa Trail near Boulder and the other was on the slopes of Mt. Audubon. Both locations were dry and rocky. Purple Fringe blooms from June to August.

Brookside-McCurdy Trail

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,000 ft - 8,830 ft
Elevation Gain: 830 ft (net), 1,060 ft (cumulative)

The Ponderosa Pine Forest on the Brookside-McCurdy Trail. Ponderosa Pines (Pinus Ponderosa) have long 4-7" needles, dark red trunks, and full canopies. The tree in the right of this picture is a typical example.

The Brookside-McCurdy Trail (BMT) is a 36 mile (one-way) trail that transects the Lost Creek Wilderness. Looking for a doggie outing on a rainy 4th of July weekend, we did just 3 miles (one-way) on this trail to a pleasant outcrop overlooking the peaks on Guanella Pass. There are no killer views on this trail, but there is an amazingly open and living Ponderosa Forest, a beautiful grass-filled meadow, and a stand of old-growth Aspens that majestically tower upwards. I never new Aspens could grow so large.

The trail sign at the parking lot

The trailhead for the Brookside-McCurdy Trail is on County Road 64 near Baily Colorado. Once you get on Hwy 64 it is best to ignore the guide books and just drive until you see the rather large and prominent forest service sign pointing to a large parking area off to the left.

Flowers along the trail

There is no demarcations at the parking area to give you an idea of where you are except for a sign advertising the Lost Creek Wilderness. Don't be fooled by this sign. The wilderness boundary is more than 3 miles up the trail.

A view of the meadow. There were several hikers frolicing amoungst the flowers

We figured that this trail was so obscure, that we would have it to ourselves. This turned not to be the case. The parking lot was almost full when we arrived at 10 AM, so plan accordingly. It seemed to be a popular spot for families with small children.

Some of the old-growth Aspens

The trail itself is amazingly soft on the feet. Absent is the usual gauntlet of rocks that after 6 miles or so make one's feet ache. Instead, the trail was composed of packed earth and pine needles. We managed to walk along at 3.4 miles per hour almost effortlessly. I can envision coming back to run the trail. It seems ideal for that purpose. There are quite a few ups and downs however, so don't be surprised if you loose elevation. I calculated 115 ft one way in additional elevation gain out to 3 miles. Most of the dips are down, over, and up small streams.

The trail transitions into a Lodgepole Pine Forest. Lodgepole Pines (Pinus contorta) have very short 1-3" needles and tall, boughless trunks.

Normally, I hate walking in the trees, being the spoiled tundra-loving Coloradoan that I am, but this trail surprised me. Instead of the trees being dense and foreboding like those on Gold Hill, these trees were actually welcoming. There was a park-like feel to them that reminded me of my childhood camping in the Sierra Nevadas. The light filtering through a Ponderosa Forest and the smell of the sun-warmed pine needles will forever be Summer to me.

Elaine and Abby eat lunch while resting on a pile of rocks. You can see a peak in the distance.

Here are some milestones along our short route.... It is 1.9 miles to the junction with the Payne Creek Trail (8,495 ft), 2.11 miles to the old-growth Aspen forest (8,602 ft), 2.41 miles to the start of the Lodgepole Pine forest (8,712 ft), 2.62 miles to a defunct bridge, 2.82 miles to the turn off for our lunch spot, and 2.93 miles to the rocks where we ate (8,830 ft). Note that our lunch spot is not on the trail but is located off to the right. It should not be difficult to find but in case you have a GPS, it was located at 39° 23.638'N 105° 31.495'W.

The only view on the trail. I took this standing on a rock outcropping. There was no way to get a shot without that pesky tree in the middle.

I have no idea if the views improve farther up the trail or if there is a notable turn around point. Still, if you are looking for a pleasant and easy ramble in the woods, this trail may just fit the bill.