Lubahn Trail

Distance: 2.5 miles round trip (official trail), 3.0 to 3.5 miles round trip with extension depending upon your route
Elevation: 5,676 to 6,319 ft
Elevation Gain: 400 ft (official trail), 643 ft (to Castle Rock)

Fellow hikers atop Castle Rock looking towards Denver, which can be seen in the distance

No one ever hikes the Lubahn Trail by itself. Instead they use it as the primary way to get part way up South Table Mountain in Golden and then use one of the many unofficial trails to the top of Castle Rock (formally known as Table Rock). According to the city, this additional excursion is illegal because it traverses private property. Tell that to the 30 or so people on the trail the day I did it.

View of Castle Rock from the street below

Every time I visit Golden I have wondered what the view would be like from a top Castle Rock, an obvious rocky outcropping on the top of South Table Mountain. There is a lot of history behind that hunk of rock as well.

Starting out to the right

Heading up

The last pitch to the top. The dirt was very loose here.

In 1906, the Castle Rock Resort opened on top of South Table Mountain. Because the locals vehemently opposed a liquor license, it started out as a café. Tourists rode donkeys up the cliff face to sip on cappuccinos.

Past the outcroppings, the trail flattens and spreads out in all directions

By 1913, a railway had replaced the donkeys and for 25 cents a tourist could ride to the top and gamble at a casino.

Approaching Castle Rock

In the early 20’s, it became a segregated dance hall and illicit drinking establishment but business was not good and soon the KKK took over the area for their meetings. In the largest event over 1,000 Klansmen frolicked atop the mountain and a large cross burned on top of Castle Rock. Who knew sleepy Golden had such a torrid past! When the structure at the top finally burned down in 1927, few wept.

Closer now

Old stairs

Today, the journey to the top of South Table Mountain is a pleasant if brief workout. The day I climbed it, I was in quite a rush. I had just finished a Sierra Club meeting and wanted to get a jaunt in before racing home to get the dogs and take them to the dog park for their daily regiment.

View looking northeast. Coors Brewery is down in that valley. Note that Golden does not look like the pristine mountain scenery Coors uses in its advertising.

The trail is typical of Front Range trails. It was dusty, rocky, and poorly maintained in places. The Lubahn portion of the trail is a loop and I started off of Belvedere Street and headed to the right.

View to the north and parts of Golden

As the trail climbs, the views of Golden become more expansive. At the southern extent of the loop, the trail begins to switchback and heads relentlessly up to two rocky outcroppings. The official Lubahn Trail heads back to the left here but the unofficial trail heads straight up. There are no signposts, or obvious distinctions to differentiate the two. For a while Castle Rock itself disappears behind the side of the mountain. The last pitch up between the outcroppings is straight up and filled with loose dirt.

Looking down on the Lubahn Trail. I descended via this route.

Once on the top, the hiker is presented with a series of intersecting trails that head off in all directions. It is easy to find you way, however, just find the nearest trail that heads off to the left. This portion of the trail is on the wide top of South Table Mountain. It is filled with grasses and occasional small shrubs.

Looking back up at Castle Rock from the descent

There is an obvious train of folks heading to Castle Rock, which has a series of short concrete steps leading to the top. These are the remnants of the old dance hall.

Heading down and looking to the south

On the top, Castle Rock just appears to be a large rocky ledge. The views of Golden are very nice and you can look down onto Coors Brewery as well. Some leftover yokels from days gone by have graffitied the place here and there, detracting from the natural ambiance.

I hiked this trail in late March when the weather was warm and the promise of Spring was in the air.

Because I was in a rush, I headed back down and met my friends who were just arriving. They had taken the left route up the Lubahn Trail and taken the most direct social trail to the top. This would be the trail that I would take down. It was precipitous in spots and not suitable for folks with knee problems. At the bottom of this section of the Lubahn there are few interpretive signs that discuss the geology of Golden’s mesas.

Black-tailed Prairie Dog

All the world loves baby animals. I have never seen baby Prairie dogs. The entire litter is here checking out the big, wide world.

Happy Mother's Day to all the mothers out there in the natural world who work so hard to perpetuate the species. It is a thankless job no matter what "team" you play for.

These Black-tailed Prairie dogs (Cynomys ludovicianus) were born close to 30 days ago. They were the size of a newborn kittens and just as curious. They were too naive to know that a large towering biped approaching their hole was a potential threat and let me get within 10 feet of them. Had I been a carnivore, these young ones would have been dinner. At another location, the babies were well protected by sentinel adults that started "barking" the moment I got too close. The only adult I saw in this area though was above ground and foraging 10 yards away.

The specimen on the left shows just how tiny these pups were.

Prairie dogs are not canines, but rodents. They earned their name precisely because of noisome warning cry. There is a trail I like to run in Boulder that traverses a large group. I feel like an ultra-marathoner being cheered on by the crowd every time I pass through. The cry is rather high-pitched though and very annoying...just as Mother Nature intended.

Prairie dogs are very social and live in large underground colonies. These can grow to be over 100 acres. Like any good solider, they clear all the vegetation away from their "fort". That is easy to do for the grass-chomping Prairie dog.

An adult. Half hidden in the burrow, you can see how bulbous they look above ground. Fashion models they are not.

Prairie dog burrows aerate the ground and funnel run off into the water table, thereby reducing erosion. Prolific diggers, their tunnel systems can descend as much as 16 ft and traverse as much as 100 feet. The tunnels also provide homes from other animals like the Burrowing Owl. These tunnels combined with the Prairie dog's tendency to take over all available space have turned them into a pest in modern society. Even Boulder, animal-loving capital of the universe, struggles with what to do with them. There is no way to contain them to open space. They move in to schoolyards, trails, soccer fields, and airport runways.

There must be millions of Prairie dogs in Colorado. The Black-tailed is the most prolific but two other species, the White-tailed Prairie dog and Gunnison's Prairie dog also live here. The infant photos were taken on the Bitterbrush Trail (Hall Ranch) in the highest colony in Boulder County (at 6300 ft). The adult photo was taken at a local dog park.

Bent’s Fort (circa 1833-1849)

Bent's Fort seen from the parking lot. This amazing reconstruction was built in 1976.

Bent’s Fort, near La Junta, was a major trading post along the border between the United States and Mexico. That’s right, before the invasion of Mexico in 1846 the Arkansas River was the border! I never knew it was that far north.

The approach to the fort traverses a large marsh. There is a trail around the marsh, but the weather prevented the journey.

The marsh was filled with Red-winged Blackbirds (Agelaius phoeniceus), strutting their stuff.

The fort also sat on the Santa Fe Trail, a major trading route that spanned the country. In the present day, the Trail cuts right through La Junta and nearby you can walk the old trail and see the old stone markers. Closer to Trinidad, you can see wagon ruts. The Santa Fe Trail was not an emigrant trail like the Oregon Trail in Wyoming. It was strictly trade goods, the prime commodity being Buffalo hides.

The approach to the fort

Standing inside the entrance, looking to the right

My visit to Bent’s Fort has changed my opinion on the near extinction of the Buffalo from the great plains of the United States. I had always been taught that the westward expansion of the White Man into the Plains Indians’ territory produced an orgy of killing that eventually wiped out the Buffalo. The Indians wanted to preserve the land and its inhabitants, while the evil White Man, then as now, wanted to destroy it. What I learned at the Fort was a new twist to this sad tale.

Trading Room. Here Buffalo hides were traded for guns, kettles, chocolate, corn, knives, flint and other goods.

The Indians themselves, in a lust for European trade goods, did much of the killing. They were far more adept at tanning the hides, which was a very laborious process. Contrary to myth, they did not use every part of the Buffalo when killed for this purpose, there was just too much. One could argue that it was the White Man who put the lust in the Indian’s heart, but if the culture, religion, and habits of the Indian were so much more environmentally conscious than white society, they would not have been tempted. The reality is, the Plains Indians were no less human than anyone else. They were influenced by the same passions and the same vices. To idolize them for being above such banalities is misguided.

Carpenter's Room. After the long journey from Missouri, I am sure many a traveler had need of this "auto body shop".

During the fort’s heyday, it teamed with activity. The Bent’s were very fair and adept peacemakers. Their egalitarian approach to business, rare in its day, made business thrive. At one point the Arkansas Indian Agency made the fort their headquarters.

Dinning Hall: Ah, the lure of civilization in the wilderness. The Fort Cook also hosted numerous "fandangos" where all manner of society mingled in a most undignified manner. After dinner many retired to the...oh horror...billiard room.

In 1846, the year of the Mexican-American War, the fort was used to house soldiers and their supplies. In unfortunate modern parallels, they over consumed what the land could provide. The fort never really returned to its peaceful ways. Some sort of military presence was always there. Shortly after the war, gold seekers and settlers took their toll on the area as well.

Standing in the courtyard looking at the entrance. It was these storm clouds that prevented us from hiking Picketwire Canyon.

On this trip to Bent’s Fort, we saw only the two National Park Employees, dressed in period costumes and no one else. That is not a realistic depiction of the fort, which was crowded and noisy with the tones of five or six languages. Behind the fort was a corral filled with the braying of pack animals.

The Buffalo hide press. Note the colorful Park Ranger in period costume. He was always posing like this.

By 1849, much of the Buffalo was gone from the immediate vicinity of La Junta and most of the trees had been destroyed. It was believed that Charles Bent burned his own fort after an unsuccessful attempt to sell it to the US Army.

Standing on the ramparts looking down into the courtyard

View of the marsh from the ramparts

A trip to Bent’s Fort is well worth the effort, particularly if you combine it with a trip to one of the canyons in the area. Vogel and Picketwire are particularly noteworthy.

Standing on the northwest lookout and looking back into the corrals. Turn around and one would see the corrals complete with horses and donkeys.

Vogel Canyon

Distance: 2.25 miles
Elevation: 4,400 to 4,300 ft
Elevation Gain: 100 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Date Hiked: 10 April 2009

A few of the more visible petroglyphs from Vogel Canyon

I have lived in Colorado for ten years now and had no idea that the southeastern Plains are dotted with canyons. These are not Black Canyon of the Gunnison kind of canyons, but they are interesting nonetheless. The advantages of this area is that the canyons are filled with archeological points of interest as well as geologic wonders like dinosaur tracks.

The beginning of the hike starts out on a rock plateau. Cairns lead the way.

Vogel canyon is located 13 miles south of La Junta, which is the best place to stay if you plan to visit. A loop around the canyon is a short hike, suitable for an afternoon excursion. We hiked it after driving 3 hours from Denver. There are picnic tables and bathrooms there, but the nearest store is La Junta so plan accordingly.

The initial side canyon is filled with sandstone rock formations. Staghorn Cholla (Cylindropuntia veriscolor), which are first visible.

Staghorn Cholla bugs. These will fall off and grow roots.

The scenic attractions in Vogel Canyon are Indian petroglyphs, settler ruins, several fresh water springs, Staghorn Cholla cactus, unique rock formations, and lots of birds.

The canyon contains 4 separate trails. Our route traversed all of these in a loop that covered both the canyon floor and the plains above.

Approaching the petroglyph cliffs

This wall is actually filled with petroglyphs, but you have to look closely to see them.

Is this a real petroglyph or a vandal's damage? With so much destruction, it is hard to tell.

Our hike started out in the picnic area and the Canyon Trail. This trail starts out on a broad rock shelf. Cairns guide the hiker into a small unnamed side canyon. The ruins of the Westbrook homestead quickly come into view on the right, and within a half of a mile, a large rock face is clearly visible on the left. It is here that the petroglyphs can be found.

The first spring near the petroglyphs

Several side trails and sign posts guide the hiker to the glyphs, which have been badly vandalized. At one point some irreverent school kids spray painted them under the noses of their chaperon teachers. There are no words to describe what I would have liked to have done to those children. One thing is for sure; none of them would be reproducing.

The second spring off the main trail

There are reportedly many more glyphs in this area, but the Forest Service is justifiably hesitant to point them out to people. We undoubtedly missed some of the best ones in our quick run through the area. The glyphs are also very hard to see with the naked eye and even digitally enhancing the photos has not brought them out much. Compared to the petroglyphs at the V-bar-V ranch in Arizona, these glyphs seem hardly worth the effort. A little more patience might have revealed some better specimens.

Turning right and heading up into wider Vogel Canyon

Near the petroglyphs are one of two springs in the area. A natural spring is certainly a draw for both humans and wildlife. These are nestled next to large rock walls. Trees grow abundantly nearby. Note that there is a trail leading down from the first spring to the second, but this second spring is not on the main trail. In fact, it is in a side canyon near private property. It is worth walking down to it, but you will have to back track. The main trail actually heads off at right angle from the first spring.

Vogel Canyon becomes very marshy.

Stagecoach ruins

At this point, the trail heads up into Vogel Canyon proper. Vogel Canyon is wider than the unnamed canyon the route first traverses. It quickly becomes a marsh, and only the remains of fallen down Cairns indicate that one is on the correct route. The trail was also quite muddy here.

This is the trail we bushwhacked to. It eventually connected with the Mesa Trail. This trail originated down in the marsh just before the stagecoach ruins. It is not on the map. Note Staghorn Cholla.

Near the end of the canyon are the rock ruins of an old stagecoach stop, which was active from 1872 to 1876. I would like to see where this stagecoach went, because it seems very strange to have a stop down at the bottom of Vogel Canyon.

At last we found the real trail.

The trail guide we received from the Forest Service shows the Mesa and Prairie Trails splitting off from each other just beyond the stagecoach ruins. The drawing was not the best, however, and it looked as if the Mesa Trail split right at the ruins while the Prairie split a little farther. This led us to head up the cliff face, a short 100 ft scramble, right behind the ruins. This was not correct. The two trails do not split until they are up on the mesa itself. Cairns near the ruins show the way. We ended up bushwhacking across the prairie a bit before we intersected with the Mesa trail.

The Mesa Trail traverses a broad plateau of short grass prairie. There are occasional juniper trees and lots of big big sky. A hundred yards away from the edge of the canyon, and you would not be able to tell it was even there. At one point on this trail, there is a metal stairway built over the barbed wire fence. The view from the top of this lofty perch was actually quite pleasing…prairie as far as the eye could see.

View of the short grass prairie from the stairs that go over the fence

The Mesa Trail dead-ends into the Overlook Trail. To the left are the picnic grounds. To the right, the trail travels to the edge of the cliff face for a bird’s eye view into the canyon. Since it was getting late, we opted to head back to the car. The Overlook trail is wide and sandy. It is meant to be handicapped accessible.

Overlook Trail

Vogel Canyon is not the most impressive of the southeastern canyons but in the spring when the prairie is awash with wildflowers, it would be very pleasant indeed. It is such a shame that its unique petroglyphs have been so damaged and are so hard to see. People are pigs. Still, if you are near La Junta with nothing better to do, a stroll through Vogel Canyon may just brighten your day.

Red Fox

Learn about other Critters: Coyote, Golden-mantled ground squirrel, Mountain Goats,
Marmots, Moose

Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) crossing a road. Note the identifying black tips on the ears and the black legs.

Sly as a fox, is it mythology or biology? My morning spent Googling the Internet seems to indicate that it is both. Foxes have an uncanny ability to anticipate the future. When hunted, foxes have been known to double back on their trail, cut across streams at an oblique angle, run around in circles, and generally out whit their pursuers. This canid is smarter than your average bear and certainly smarter than my dog who will stare gap-jawed at a pile of scree because some Pika is tormenting it from the safety of little nook.

Take this fox's facial expression and put it on a human. How would you read it?

Since the Red Fox is one of the most wildly spread species in the world, spanning Alaska to Japan, its behavior has been well observed by indigenous peoples, so it is no wonder that the fox has served as a mythological model of cunning behavior. In Hopi mythology, the fox has been granted healing powers. According to Apache legend, it was the bringer of fire. The fox was also believed by many North American tribes to be a shape shifter. Those who wish to make themselves invisible are told to make the fox their totem.

Looking down a grassy slope. What tasty morsels lie in the grass?

The pictures in this post are of the Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes). It is the most common as well as the largest species of fox and is usually a rusty red with black ear tips and legs. There are actually four species of fox in Colorado, however. Gray Foxes have reddish ears and feet and prefer the Mountains. The Swift and Kit Fox are much smaller and have a coloring similar to the Coyote. They are rare and live out on the eastern Plains.

I have been observing the specimen in these pictures in the early morning in the grassy fields near where I work. It must have a den with kits nearby because I have seen it carry “take-out” rodent across the road. Foxes are the most active at dawn and dusk.

Scent marking

The Red Fox is a carnivore but has been known in other parts of the world to prefer invertebrates like crawfish. In Colorado, rodents, which are as varied here as a Chinese menu, are its primary fare. Given the fox’s reputation, however it is no wonder that they are also known to raid trashcans, pet bowls as well as discreetly dine on carrion.

Red Foxes are primarily monogamous, although the wide-ranging male is known to occasionally wander into other female’s territory “in search of food”.

Disappearing into the shrubbery

Regardless of your belief in spiritual totems, the Red Fox is always entertaining. It is a good parent, is not terribly frightened by humans, and its hunting behavior is amusing to watch. I always feel a little blessed when I get to see a Red Fox, they are just plain cute.