Sunday, April 19, 2009

Red Fox



Learn about other Critters: Coyote, Golden-mantled ground squirrel, Mountain Goats,
Marmots, Moose

Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) crossing a road. Note the identifying black tips on the ears and the black legs.
Sly as a fox, is it mythology or biology? My morning spent Googling the Internet seems to indicate that it is both. Foxes have an uncanny ability to anticipate the future. When hunted, foxes have been known to double back on their trail, cut across streams at an oblique angle, run around in circles, and generally out whit their pursuers. This canid is smarter than your average bear and certainly smarter than my dog who will stare gap-jawed at a pile of scree because some Pika is tormenting it from the safety of little nook.

Take this fox's facial expression and put it on a human. How would you read it?
Since the Red Fox is one of the most wildly spread species in the world, spanning Alaska to Japan, its behavior has been well observed by indigenous peoples, so it is no wonder that the fox has served as a mythological model of cunning behavior. In Hopi mythology, the fox has been granted healing powers. According to Apache legend, it was the bringer of fire. The fox was also believed by many North American tribes to be a shape shifter. Those who wish to make themselves invisible are told to make the fox their totem.

Looking down a grassy slope. What tasty morsels lie in the grass?
The pictures in this post are of the Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes). It is the most common as well as the largest species of fox and is usually a rusty red with black ear tips and legs. There are actually four species of fox in Colorado, however. Gray Foxes have reddish ears and feet and prefer the Mountains. The Swift and Kit Fox are much smaller and have a coloring similar to the Coyote. They are rare and live out on the eastern Plains.

I have been observing the specimen in these pictures in the early morning in the grassy fields near where I work. It must have a den with kits nearby because I have seen it carry “take-out” rodent across the road. Foxes are the most active at dawn and dusk.

Scent marking
The Red Fox is a carnivore but has been known in other parts of the world to prefer invertebrates like crawfish. In Colorado, rodents, which are as varied here as a Chinese menu, are its primary fare. Given the fox’s reputation, however it is no wonder that they are also known to raid trashcans, pet bowls as well as discreetly dine on carrion.

Red Foxes are primarily monogamous, although the wide-ranging male is known to occasionally wander into other female’s territory “in search of food”.

Disappearing into the shrubbery
Regardless of your belief in spiritual totems, the Red Fox is always entertaining. It is a good parent, is not terribly frightened by humans, and its hunting behavior is amusing to watch. I always feel a little blessed when I get to see a Red Fox, they are just plain cute.

    Thursday, April 16, 2009

    Day 6: Crescent Moon Creek

    Distance: 2 miles round trip
    Elevation: 4,000 ft
    Elevation Gain: None

    Folks love to lounge on the large red rock platforms near the western end of the park

    You would think that our staying within steps of Crescent Moon Park would have tempted us before our last day, but since we had phenomenal views of Cathedral Rock right from our front porch the thought of walking along the creek was not as enticing and you might think.

    Still, the park is home to one of the most photographed places in all of Sedona so I knew we would have to make the trek.

    Crescent Moon is a picnic area with lovely trees and a creek side walk. The first half of this is paved but the other half is rocky, filled with tree roots, and a few rough areas. I say this from the perspective of my Mother who is not as nimble as she used to be. Anyone under 60 will find the trail quite easy.

    Hoodoos at the far eastern end of the trail. Here one is practically on top of the vortex, which is technically on the other side of the creek. These hoodoos were EVERYWHERE.

    I found out late in our trip that Cathedral Rock is home of one of Sedona's several vortexes (note, I am not misspelling the word, that is how the locals refer to them). These vortexes are supposed to be centers of concentrated earth energy. Lounging or meditating near a vortex is presumably uplifting. It is certainly a more novel tourist attraction than a curio store and it does have the added benefit of getting people outdoors. A little exercise in the sunshine is always uplifting to me.

    One document I found online indicated that the vortex near Cathedral Rock was filled with feminine energy. It is supposed to increase one's compassion and empathy. No wonder I had avoided it all week. My father made a snide remark that I would have to hang out at the vortex for a VERY LONG TIME to see any increase in my feminine side.

    Buddha Beach at the end of the trail. Just out of frame to the right was a nice long log for sitting. The hoodoos are also off to the right.

    In contrast, I found out there is a masculine vortex up near the airport. No wonder I loved the Ridge Trail so much. The masculine vortex is supposed to increase one's self confidence and ambition. I feel some chest beating is in order!! No wonder I wandered off the trail and climbed down a gully, I was filled with masculine, "it can't happen to me" energy. Hmm, maybe there is something to this vortex thing after all!

    Rock rock crossing. I had to stand in the mud with 20 other folks to get this shot.

    Crescent Moon park is also a mecca for photographers as I have already mentioned. On this last day, I kept wandering over hoping to catch the sunset on the rocks where they are reflected in the water. By the time things were just getting ripe, a swarm of photographers with their tripods staked out plots of gooey mud along the creek bed each hoping I am sure for that quintessential shot. After a entire week of looking up at this admittedly scenic view, I was less enthused about elbowing in. My best shot of the rock was probably taken from our side yard, which incidentally was home to a meditating local for several days while we were there.

    I don't know what she was smoking, but she jousted with invisible demons using a tree branch, swayed to and fro on rather unsteady feet, and finally left her shoes behind when she thankfully departed. One can take the whole vortex thing too far.

    Cathedral Rock from our vacation rental.

    So this is my final post about my trip to Sedona. I hope you have enjoyed sharing my vacation with me as much as I enjoyed living it. Sedona is a beautiful oasis and I would love to return and hike some of its more challenging trails. Renting a home was a convenient way to share space with several people and it enabled us to cook for ourselves. Some say Sedona is a life-list destination. With so much to do and so much to see, I couldn't agree more.

    Sunday, April 12, 2009

    Day 6: Andante/Thunder Mountain Loop

    Distance: 2.6 miles roundtrip
    Elevation: 4,550 to 4,600 ft

    Rock spires on the eastern end of Thunder Mountain

    On our last day in Sedona, I did not get up and hike early in the morning. I lucked out later in the day, however, because once the thermometer reached a warm 75 degrees, my mother, whom we call Judy of the Tundra, complained of the heat. My father and I dropped her off at our vacation rental, gleefully put on shorts, and headed out to hike.

    Andante trail head

    I had looked in the book for a short, easy trail that wouldn't over tax him. While the Andante Trail was listed as easy, I would call it moderate simply because it drifted up and down through small gullies that were very rocky.

    Dad after an hour in the wilds of Sedona

    Andante and Thunder Mountain form a loop if taken together. They exist on the northern side of Sedona, just outside a housing track. The views of the red rocks dominate the scenery but many of the plants and birds also got our attention. There were quite a few Quail, and even a very vocal specimen high up in a shrub, his "head ornament" flapping as his head bobbed up and down. Scrub Jays were also plentiful.

    You don't escape from urban life on the Thunder Mountain Trail, but with views like this, do you care?

    There are a lot of social trails in the area that gave us pause once in a while, but with the view of Sedona's houses within sight, we didn't have to worry about getting lost in the wilderness.

    The trail gets up close and personal to Thunder Mountain itself.

    Day 5: Wupatki

    Wupatki Ruins

    Waupatki is WAY OUT from Flagstaff, a good 30 miles northeast and we almost did not drive there but I am so glad we did. It became my Mother’s personal favorite of all the ruins we visited. The drive itself, while long, is very scenic and is a loop so you don’t have to backtrack that much.

    The route goes right by Sunset Crater National Monument, a volcanic cinder cone. My Father really wanted to see this site, but it was so chilly and windy that we only took a short 1/3-mile trail. I have been there before and the 1-mile trail through the lava beds in very interesting.

    Sunset crater last erupted between 1040 and 1100, a final hiccup in a long 6-million year history of volcanic activity in the Flagstaff area. The ash and tremors drove the local 400-year old Sinaguan population from the area. They did not return for a 100 years.

    Wupatki National Monument contains at least 5 sets of ruins. Finally reaching our limit on ruins, hard to believe I know, we only stopped at the main one. This pueblo sits out on a plain several thousand feet below the plateau that Sunset Crater sits on. In the distance you can see Arizona’s painted desert.

    There are two circular structures, which farther north I would call a Kiva, that served as community centers. The pueblo itself is multi-story, which is always fascinating to me. How these peoples, who did not have the wheel, were able to build apartment complexes is quite amazing if you spend more than two seconds thinking about it.

    Community Room

    The red rocks, blue skies, endless vistas that surround this sight make it a worthy spot if you are in the Flagstaff area.


    Looking east out into the Painted Desert

    Thursday, April 9, 2009

    Day 5: Walnut Canyon Rim Trail

    Distance: 1 miles round trip
    Elevation: 7,000 ft
    Elevation Gain: None

    Ruins in an alcove at Walnut Canyon. You can see this set from the Visitor's Center.

    Having exhausted all the ruins near Sedona, the family unit decided to head north towards Flagstaff, which is 3,000 feet higher, and quite cooler than its trendier cousin to the south. I have always like the Flagstaff area because of its Ponderosa pines, which smell like my happy childhood summers camping around the west.

    We hit two National Monuments near Flagstaff, the first one being Walnut Canyon. I am loath to pass up a tourist attraction, particularly if a new refrigerator magnet can be earned. I hate to say it, but the magnet was the best part of the outing.

    The dwelling trail viewed from the Visitor's Center.

    Walnut Canyon National Monument contains a series of cliff dwellings that are simplistically constructed into the canyon walls. There are over 300 steps down into the canyon to view the more impressive ones. There was no way my Mother, who had gamely managed to get around thus far, was going to handle that. Instead, we took her out onto the nice viewing platform that angles downward 30 feet or so below the Visitor’s Center. You can see some dwellings from there as well as the canyon floor.

    A typical portion of the Rim Trail. You can see a few of the dead trees in the distance. On part of the trail they were everywhere.

    We did walk the Rim Trail, which also has nice views of the canyon. There were a lot of dead trees in this area that turned out to be caused by Pine Beetle kill. We saw the tracks and scat of Mule Deer and one Juniper Titmouse that I managed to get a very blurry picture of. There are ruins of a pit house on the Rim Trail that is mildly interesting.

    Looking down to the canyon floor. Most of the trees had yet to leaf out.

    I don’t think I would drive 300 miles to see Walnut Canyon, but if you are in the area it would make a pleasant excursion. In milder weather, we were quite nipped after Sedona, a leisurely picnic on site would also be pleasant.

    Day 5: Fay Canyon Hike

    Distance: 2.4 miles round trip
    Elevation: 4,500 to 4,800 ft
    Elevation Gain: 300 ft

    Red rock walls of Fay Canyon

    Once again I awoke early to get in a hike before my parents awoke. This day I chose Fay Canyon because my new guidebook said it was very pretty and was quite short. It took me 15 minutes to drive to the trailhead from our vacation rental, so I did not have a lot of extra time to spend.

    Beginning of the trail. It was wide, flat, and sandy.

    The canyon is indeed very scenic, and the early morning sun glinting off the upper rocks in pleasing sepia tones filled me with peace. Early spring before the sun reaches the canyon floor may not be the best time to hike this trail despite the visual effects, however. It was cold and I found myself hustling along to stay warm, my gloved hands curled into claws in my jacket pocket.

    Morning sunlight on the canyon walls seen from half-way up to the arch.

    Unlike the Andante and Thunder Mountain Trails, which I took my dad on the day after this, this trail really is easy. The main trail is very sandy with minimal rocks. I could have taken my mother on this trail without difficulty.

    The arch viewed from the main trail

    The red rock walls that progressively narrow as one heads deeper into the canyon dominate the senses. I remember chatting with a forest service ranger at one of the cliff dwellings and she said that the best hikes in Sedona are usually the easiest. Fay Canyon certainly fits that description.

    For the more adventurous and sure-footed soul, Fay Canyon has an added attraction of a natural rock arch up the right hand side of the canyon. The trail to this arch, at 0.6 miles in, is marked with a cute arch cairn, so it is very difficult to miss. The trail to the arch is a scramble, however, that several times required both of my hands. It is highly eroded, very rocky, and bordered by hungry Prickly Pear Cactus. A slip here would result in more than a bruised behind!

    Rock ledge near the arch, which is straight ahead.

    The climb to the arch is well worth the effort, however. The views of the canyon are spectacular and at this hour in the morning, I had the entire place to myself. Two songbirds were cajoling amongst the rocks making quite a racket and the air was perfectly still. I would have loved to have lingered but my time was short.

    Cross canyon walls silhouetted through the arch

    The trip back down the trail was very steep and slippery. I had to crab my way down in several spots. Fortunately, there was no there to see such an ignomious decent.

    Towards the end of the canyon, the trail narrows and a canopy of scrub oaks obscures the views. The trail itself does not go to the geographic end of the canyon. Instead it stops at a large rock fall near a very obvious rock thumb. While it looked completely possible to scramble over this fall and continue on, I had a breakfast date I could not miss and so turned around.

    Trail narrows towards the end

    It took me 1.5 hours to head up the canyon but only 0.5 hours to get back, so if you don’t scramble up to the arch, the hike can be very short indeed.

    Rock thumb marks the end of the official trail

    After the hike I swung by the Enchantment Resort for a cup of great coffee. I found this resort so appealing; I made reservations for us for lunch the following day. It is located in an adjacent canyon with wonder views of the red rocks.

    Friday, April 3, 2009

    Day 4: Slide Rock State Park Vista Trail

    Distance: 1 mile round trip
    Elevation Gain: Negligible

    Standing on the bridge looking up at the park. The water shoot it at the far end of the photo.

    We drove up Oak Creek Canyon for a ways after visiting Tuzigoot and Jerome. Oak Creek Canyon is not as spectacular as I thought it would be. It is mostly the creek and trees and not as many red rocks as I anticipated. Most of the trees were barren but I suspect in the heat of summer, those trees and that water would be a welcome respite.


    Red rocks along the trail. It was late afternoon and I was shooting into a harsh sun.

    One of the most popular areas in Sedona is Slide Rock State Park. Here you can slide through a narrow slot of cool water. In March, it was far too cold to even contemplate getting wet. In fact it was not until the day we left that I could even wear shorts.



    Just past the bridge over Oak Creek at the southern end of the park is a parking area and a short trail through the scrub oaks. This trail follows the road back down to the bridge for a nice panorama of the park itself. While short, this little trail is very pleasant. It gave us a chance to view some of the few red rocks in the area.

    Another view of the park near the bridge. You can see a few hearty souls playing in the water.

    Sunday, March 29, 2009

    Day 4: Tuzigoot Sinaguan Ruins

    Standing on the roof of Tuzigoot looking north. The light brown near the cliff is the marsh.

    Tuzigoot, which is Apache for crooked water is the remains of a Sinaguan pueblo. It also turned out to be my mother’s favorite site on the trip. She liked the idea of seeing an entire village. I liked it because they have reconstructed the roof of the highest part of the structure so you can stand on the top and view the entire area. This might be the viewing loving Coloradoan in me or it might be the fact that the Sinaguans lived on their roofs, and this reconstruction provides a glimpse into that experience.

    Looking up at the ruins from the far southern extent of the walkway. There were two gringo women here conducting some faux Indian ritual. The doubt the original inhabitants would have appreciated such misguided beliefs.

    This ruin is near Cottonwood, which is 20 miles east of Sedona. We combined this visit with a trip up to Jerome, an old mining village high up Mingus Mountain. Jerome turned out to be such a dud that I won’t bother blogging it. If you go to Tuzigoot, combine it with Palaki and Honaki for a ruins blitzkrieg.

    Looking south to the point where I took the previous picture. You can see the green trees and lush farmland of the Verde Valley. It is not difficult to imagine ancient fields covering the entire region surrounding the site.

    Tuzigoot sits on a tall ridge that rises 120 feet above the surrounding Verde Valley. About 50 people inhabited the village from 1125 to at least 1400. I would like to see a modern tract home survive that long.

    Looking west. Jerome sites on the far hillside. This view is not pristine. In the distance is a copper mine. Most of the ground here is reclaimed from the mine tailings. Who knows what it would have looked like in ancient times.

    The Apache name for the site is very apropos. At one point the Verde River actually hooked around the settlement in what is technically called an oxbow. At one point the river broke through the ridge to the south, sending the river away from the settlement. The marsh, which provided both food and reeds to the inhabitants of Tuzigoot managed to survive, fed but a spring.

    Interior of the reconstructed tall house. It gives you an idea of the type of construction needed to build multi-story structures.

    Saturday, March 28, 2009

    Day 4: The Ridge Trail

    Distance: 5 miles out and back
    Elevation: 4,000 – 4,400 ft
    Elevation gain: 400 ft

    Back side of Cathedral Rock

    I asked my parents when they would let me hike while vacationing in Sedona. They said I could hike all I wanted as long as I was back to cook breakfast by 9 AM. Since I was awake by 6:30 AM anyway, I started going out at sunrise to enjoy the area. I did this trail twice, because the southern trailhead is less than 50 yards from where I am staying near the Crescent Moon Picnic Area. I did not have a map at that point and had no idea where the trail would lead, but it turned out to be wonderful early morning hike with 270-degree views of the surrounding areas. The rock cairns were easy to follow and the views were spectacular.


    Beginning of the Ridge Trail from the southwestern side

    Cathedral Rock in the early morning light. Not the best time to photograph it. Sunset is much better.

    The first day I did the hike, my camera froze up and I was unable to take pictures, which is why I ended up doing it twice. There were also six hot air balloons hovering around Cathedral Rock, which made it particularly festive. I was practically in tears that day knowing I had the chamber of commerce shot right in front of me. My frustration was in vain, however, because my early morning photography skills could use an upgrade. I am so used to taking pictures in the middle of the day, that I did not do very well in the low light conditions.

    Behind the Cathedral Rock viewpoint is a small ridge to be scaled.

    Intersection with Chavez Road. Note the distinctive cairn.

    Note that the first half-mile of this trail is not in the books or on the Sedona trail map. It is obvious, however because there is a large cairn right at the trailhead. These cairns exist all the way to the published trailhead on Chavez road. After that they disappear. Note also that there are more trails in this area than exist on the map so it is hard to tell exactly what trail one is on. Anyway you go will be nice, just realize that unless you do an out and back, finding your way home without a map may be time consuming.


    The final pitch to the top of the ridge is a steep and rocky outcrop. Poles would help in coming down this portion.

    View to the southwest from the top of the ridge

    On my first trip, I did an out and back, turning around the far end of the ridge at a T-intersection. On my second trip I decided to take the left fork of this T for a longer hike. This is the continuation of the Ridge Trail. It goes down the hillside towards Sedona. Since I had a breakfast date, I did not want to go too far but decided to try and find my way back along an old streambed. Do NOT do this! Going off trail has risks that most should not take. Following streambeds means very rocky terrain. Additionally, I had 5 class 2 scrambles to descend where the rocks ended in sharp 6-foot ledges. At each of these locations, I had to evaluate whether I would be able to turn around and retrace my steps. As it was, this streambed ended up intersecting with one of the many trails in the Carrol Canyon area and I continued on them to get out. Later, I studied a map of the area. Had I had this map while hiking, always a better plan, I would have known that 30 yards from where I turned off the trails would have intersected naturally.


    The trail as it crosses the ridge

    Heading down the left side of the ridge

    So, I have not hiked the Ridge Trail from end to end, but scaled the easy, by Colorado standards anyway, 400 ft to the top. The views are well worth that effort. Early morning is a delightful time to hike, even in spring. The sun, in these exposed areas is welcoming and the vistas are awe-inspiring. The following day, I hiked up Fay Canyon, which was beautiful, but cold first thing in the AM. In the heat of summer, I am sure the coolness would be most welcome.

    View of Sedona and the surrounding rocks in the early morning light. I got up close and personal to the fingers on the right on the Thunder Mountain Trail on my last day in Sedona.

    North Rock Creek Snowshoe

    Distance: 4 miles round trip Elevation: 9,180 ft to 9,780 ft Elevation Gain: 600 ft Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary North...