Rattlesnake Gulch (Eldorado Canyon State Park)

Distance: 3.6 miles round trip
Elevation: 6,050 ft - 7,250 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,200 ft
Date Hiked: 28 November, 2008
Dogs: On leash only, State Park
Bathroom at the trailhead: No
Critters: Mountain Lion

The dramatic cliff faces are the draw to Eldorado Canyon State Park.  The Rattlesnake Gulch trail is a great way to see them.

Rattlesnake Gulch is a short hike with Zen-like properties located in Eldorado Canyon State Park near Boulder. I like hiking this trail in the spring as a mid-week prepare-for-summer hike but on this trip it was Thanksgiving weekend and we needed a close in trail with some decent elevation gain to work off the feeding frenzy.



Fowler Trail



Gray Quartzite cliff face seen from the trail. This rock started out as eroded sand 1.6 billion years ago. Time, heat, and pressure compacted it into sandstone. This formation was eventually shoved closer to the Earth's core where the increased heat and pressure transformed it into metamorphic rock. How's that for drama? 
The trail starts upwards immediately on the Fowler Trail, which is a short handicapped accessible trail with spectacular views of the rock walls and the many rock climbers that make Eldorado Canyon famous. Before these views, however, the Rattlesnake Gulch trail begins and heads sharply up to the right. It crosses a short meadow before climbing relentlessly up a series of switchbacks to the ruins of the Crags Hotel, which burned down in 1912. There is not much left but an interpretive sign, some social trails, and some nice views back down the canyon.



Ruins of the Crag's Hotel 800 ft above the trail head. Built in 1908, it was destroyed in 1912. Guests reached the hotel via an inclined railway from the canyon floor.



From the ruins overlook, you can see the trail head and cars far below. 
From this point, the trail becomes a loop up to a lookout over the Continental Divide. You can take the loop in either direction but I prefer the far right loop because it hits the overlook early on. This is my Zen space. On a hot summer day, I like to lie down on the ground at this overlook and gaze up into the deep blue sky.



The overlook trail just as it leaves the Crag's Hotel ruins. This section is smooth. Other parts are much more steep and rocky. 
For some reason I have never encountered other postulates on such excursions. This trip, however, probably due to the holiday weekend, was filled with revelers. The trail was packed with them. From the overlook, the trail continues to ascend sharply until it reaches the level of the railroad tracks that cut through the hills.



A cliff face of the Fountain Formation, which is sedimentary rock that was uplifted 300 million years ago. The redish color comes from an iron ore called hematite. This is the same stone that can be seen on Boulder Flatirons (see my snowy day at NCAR and Royal Arch posts) and at the Red Rocks Amphitheater (see my Matthew Winters post). 
If you live anywhere near the area, then you know that coal trains are ubiquitous. They traverse the cut that the trail leads to.   Earlier in the outing we did see some folks walking on the tracks, and there is a social trail that leads from the trail up to them. I have never done this though and would be curious to know what kind of views you get from tempting fate.   It looks like there is another social trail near the tunnel, which might lead up to the top of hill.



Trail leading to the rail bed



Highly eroded rail bed 
This part of Eldorado Canyon is home to a resident Mountain Lion. While we did not see it this trip we had a close encounter last spring. We had just turned a switch back and passed a mountain biker heading up. In short order, he came back round the corner screaming Mountain Lion!!!! The beastie was following us down the trail and we did not even know it. I was bummed because I have always wanted to see a Mountain Lion in the wild, through a telephoto lens of course, and here we were within 40 feet of one. I have another friend who reported being stalked by a Mountain Lion in that same area. I tell you this not to make you paranoid about this trail but to emphasize that even 10 minutes off the highway is wilderness in much of Colorado and Eldorado Canyon is no exception.



View of the canyon from the overlook trail



Sunlight glinting off the hillside on the way down
Rattlesnake Gulch is a short trail with nice vistas, so get out there and try it. Just don’t wear raw steak around your neck. If you see a Mountain Lion, “here kitty kitty” is NOT an appropriate response.

Mule Deer

Mule Deer (Odocoileus hemionus) are very common in Colorado, although White-Tailed Deer are becoming somewhat prevalent in the Eastern Plains. This group is part of a resident herd on NCAR’s mesa. We see them at all times of the year and they are known to snuggle up to the warm building at night. Many have large radio collars on them with antennas sticking out, which looks futuristic. I wonder how many of us humans have such invisible collars tracking our every move for some other species.


According to the Colorado Division of Wildlife, you can distinguish Mule Deer from White-tailed Deer by their gate. Mule Deer bound with a stiff-legged gait with their tail held down. White tails move with a graceful lope, the flag-like tail held erect.


Deer are vegetarian browsers who feed on the woody portions of both shrubs and trees. Interestingly, they eat little grass and so do not compete with domestic livestock. Antler growth begins in the spring so that they are ready for mating spars in autumn. By winter they are shed. Males of the species are called bucks, the females are called does, and the youngsters are called fawns.

Secret Hike near Allenspark

When lakes dry up they slowly turn into meadows. This small one was turning golden in the Fall.
It is the day after Thanksgiving and going over some recent hikes. On this day, two friends and I wandered off the beaten path near Allenspark. So close to Estes Park, the trails are usually mobbed. This unmarked area was deserted and we found some stunning views, and wonderful picnic spot, and a meadow turning golden with the change of seasons. For large sums of money, I might reveal the location of this hike, but your credit better be good!


Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft)


View from the trail. St. Vrain Mountain (12,162 ft) on the left.



Rocks formations in St. Vrain Canyon


My friend John. Perhaps you can bribe him to show you his secret hike!

Stained Glasss in the Allenspark Community Church

This fall, I went hiking with a friend up near Allenspark (Elevation 8,504 ft). He took me to check out the stained glass in the Allenspark Community Church. Each one of the windows represents a different Colorado Wildflower. The church was not open, so I ended up taking pictures of the stained glass through the windows themselves. They are quite striking. If you are visiting Estes Park, or driving the Peak-to-Peak highway for a Sunday drive, stop in. Add a late breakfast as the Meadow Mountain Café and you have the makings of a lovely outing. The artist used to have a web site that described his work and some history of the church. This web site is no longer working.




Reflection of the window with hints of Allenspark beyond


Golden Banner window


Outside of the church

Matthew Winters Park

Distance: 4.5 miles RT
Elevation: 6,200 - 6,771 ft
Elevation Gain: 1, 296 ft cumulative (lots of ups and downs)


The south side of the Morrison Slide Trail at Matthew Winters Park
Matthew Winters is a close in Jefferson County Open Space with unique views of Red Rocks and the Morrison Valley. It is a tour through geologic history. In the spring, the nearby Dakota Ridge Trail is home to migrating raptors. The best time to visit is during the week. On weekends and after work, hikers and mountain bikers mob the park.


Starting out on the Village Walk Trail


Looking back on the Red Rock Trail from the north side Morrison Slide Trail


The Morrison Valley from the middle of the Morrison Slide Trail. The Dakota Ridge is visible in the distance with city of Denver beyond.
My favorite route starts with the west side of the Village Walk Trail. This short 0.3-mile trail wanders uphill through waving grasses and passes an ancient cemetery. It connects with the Red Rocks Trail, which continues upwards along the side of a sloping hill. The views increase as the trail winds westward. Deer can be seen far below in the narrow shrub filled canyon that parallels the route. After 0.8 miles, the hiker descends into this canyon where two options present themselves. One can head steeply up to the Morrison Slide Plateau or head down below the plateau. I always choose to head upwards first. And return via the lower route. The upward route is the Morrison Slide Trail.



Another view of the Morrison Valley


Red Rocks from the Morrison Slide Trail
The Morrison Slide Trail (1.2 miles) if very scenic indeed. Once on top of the plateau, the views extend out into the plains and down the Morrison Valley. The uplift of the Dakota Ridge formation is startlingly evident and the observer can follow the layers of sedimentary rock going back to the Permian Age. These layers are now fins of uplifted rock that make up the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, and they extend all the way down the valley. The far side of the Morrison Slide Trails takes the hiker back down the south side of the Plateau and wanders among large red rock boulders and fins. There are numerous lookouts and picnic spots along the end of the Plateau. This area is also exceptional for a full moon hike.


Looking back on the Morrison Slide trail


Morrison Slide trail
At the end of the Morrison Slide Trail, the hiker can loop back via the lower portion of the Red Rocks Trail, or continue southward for another 1.2 miles to Red Rocks itself or to the connection on the other side of Hwy 26 of the Dakota Ridge Trail. I have never done either of the last two options. The return via the lower Red Rocks Trail (0.8 miles to the junction) is somewhat anticlimactic after all the rock formations, but it is open to the wide sky, which is on of the things I love best about Colorado. I always take the east fork of the Village Walk Trail (0.6 miles) for variety and to make the route longer.


Red rock formations coming down the south side of the Morrison Slide Trail
Matthew Winters Park is a haven for runners, hikers, bikers, but not necessarily dogs. As with all Jefferson County Open Space, dogs must be leashed and the trail is narrow, which make trail passing a challenge. Choose an off-hour time, however and you will have the park nearly to yourself.


More rock formations

Button Rock Preserve/Sleepy Lion Trail

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,960 – 6,420 ft
Elevation Gain: 460 ft

Ralph Pierce Reservoir viewed from the Sleepy Lion Trail. You can see Mt. Meeker in the distance.

Button Rock is a delightful and lesser-known open space just west of Lyons. It is dog friendly, contains views of distant Twin Sisters, and skirts a narrow reservoir bordered by pine trees. It is another of my favorite shoulder season hikes.


Creek along the initial part of the trail to the dam
The trail starts off in a large dirt parking area surrounded by high cliffs. On the west side of a wide gate, a broad flat road heads east towards the Ralph Price Reservoir. The road transects the canyon with several interesting water features along the way. If you continue heading west, you will end up at the base of the dam, but for a more interesting route, take the Sleep Lion Trail around a half-mile up the road. A large sign marks the trail.


These man-made falls are about half-way to the Sleepy Lion turn off.

Rocks along the Sleepy Lion Trail
The Sleepy Lion Trail winds through Ponderosa and Douglas fir. There are occasional open meadows and isolated red boulder formations. At the high point you can see the tip of Mt. Meeker and the double hump of Twin Sisters. There are also views of the reservoir itself.


Twin Sisters in the distance
From the highest vantage, the trail descends down an old rail bed to the base of the dam. Here a dramatic jet of water shoots out of the reservoir’s water control feature. It is difficult to pull oneself away from the chaotic and powerful display of man’s attempt to control nature.


The Ralph Pierce Reservoir seen from the Sleepy Lion Trail
On the far right-hand side of the dam is a short but steep trail up to the reservoir itself. This ascends several hundred feet through several highly eroded areas. Anyone used to Colorado’s steep ascents will find this short jaunt to be trivial. For those who wish an outing that is easier on the knees, skip the trail and head back down the broad road to the trailhead.


The old rail bed portion of the Sleepy Lion Trail
The Ralph Price Reservoir is an interesting and rarely visited place. There is no official trail that circumnavigates it, but you can walk along the right shoreline for a mile or so. In low years, there are boulders to nestle in and in high years, the deep blue waters of the reservoir lap the shoreline almost to the level of the trail. If the wind is not blowing too much, this is a pleasant place for a picnic.


Water jet

Base of the Button Rock Dam
To return to the trailhead, the hiker has two options, he can return down to the base of the dam via the steep trail or wander up and around to one of the dirt roads that skirt the area.


The deep blue of the Ralph Pierce Reservoir
On a sunny fall day, Button Rock can be a pleasant Front Range excursion. While known to the locals, it is rarely visited by those outside of Lyons. This does not mean that it will be uncrowded, however, but I have found that most visitors stay on the main road and do not take the more scenic but more strenuous Sleep Lion Trail.

Aphrodite Fritillary

Ok, it is still decently warm in Colorado but I am already bemoaning that winter is nigh so I was going back over some photographs I took one day at lunch on Boulder's Mesa Trail this spring.

This butterfly was only still for two seconds, so I was lucky to get it in focus. I believe it is an Aphrodite Fritillary (Speyeria aphrodite) although there are several butterflies that look similar and you really need to see their underwing to get an accurate identification.


The females lay eggs on violet plants but will feed on any type of flower. Unlike some of their moisture loving cousins, they are found in the plains. It was HOT this past summer if you recall. You know it is hot when the poison-ivy was wilting.

Fritillary by the way is a fancy term that means a "butterfly with brownish wings marked with black and silver"

Day 6: Sault St. Marie Lock Tour

The U.S. Soo Locks. Note the ore carrier in the left lock. The doors to the right lock are open. View live web cam of the soo locks.

On our last day of vacation, we bolted up to Sault (pronounced Soo) St. Marie to take a Lock Tour. We had no idea a priori whether this was a good use of our time but it toured out to be a blast. If you don’t want to go through the Locks, you can also just drive to the viewing platform about a mile up the road from the tour dock. Large ore carriers travel through the locks several times a day.


The lock doors closing


Looking up at an ore carrier already lifted up to the level of Lake Superior


Looking at the interior wall of the lock


A Coast Guard patrol boat shared our journey. Note the manned 50 cal machine gun. The Coast Guard is playing a vital role in the war on terror. The ore carrier that was on the left has already left. You can see it in the distance.



Looking back on the locks after exiting. The viewing platform can be seen on the right.
Sault St. Marie is the third oldest establishment in the United States being founded in 1688. Sault means to jump so this was a place to jump the St. Mary’s river.


Bridge to Canada

The locks exist because Lake Superior is several hundred feet higher than Lake Huron. St. Mary’s River connects to the bodies of water. The tour takes you by some of the rapids that still exist. The first locks were actually built in 1797 were destroyed in the War of 1812. The US built its first lock in 1855. The locks are run by the Federal Government and are free to all passing ships.


Captain Mary, one of two female ship captains on the St. Mary's River.

A pavilion on the Canadian side of the river.
The boat tour takes you through the locks, up around to a steel mill, back through the locks, over to the rapids, and the finally along the Canadian side of the river. The captain of our boat is one of only two female captains on the river. She was quite interesting to talk to.


Pile of salt on the edge of the river


This ore carrier cruised by just as we were disembarking from the tour. I could sit and watch them all day. Is it any wonder I ended up in the Navy?

If you are ever in the area, the tour is worth doing. If this interests you, check out the Soo locks visitor's center web site for more information.

I hope you have enjoyed this virtual travel diary as much as we enjoyed living it. Many thanks to Nina at Black Coffee at Sunrise for all her travel tips.