Secret Hike near Allenspark

When lakes dry up they slowly turn into meadows. This small one was turning golden in the Fall.
It is the day after Thanksgiving and going over some recent hikes. On this day, two friends and I wandered off the beaten path near Allenspark. So close to Estes Park, the trails are usually mobbed. This unmarked area was deserted and we found some stunning views, and wonderful picnic spot, and a meadow turning golden with the change of seasons. For large sums of money, I might reveal the location of this hike, but your credit better be good!


Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft)


View from the trail. St. Vrain Mountain (12,162 ft) on the left.



Rocks formations in St. Vrain Canyon


My friend John. Perhaps you can bribe him to show you his secret hike!

Stained Glasss in the Allenspark Community Church

This fall, I went hiking with a friend up near Allenspark (Elevation 8,504 ft). He took me to check out the stained glass in the Allenspark Community Church. Each one of the windows represents a different Colorado Wildflower. The church was not open, so I ended up taking pictures of the stained glass through the windows themselves. They are quite striking. If you are visiting Estes Park, or driving the Peak-to-Peak highway for a Sunday drive, stop in. Add a late breakfast as the Meadow Mountain Café and you have the makings of a lovely outing. The artist used to have a web site that described his work and some history of the church. This web site is no longer working.




Reflection of the window with hints of Allenspark beyond


Golden Banner window


Outside of the church

Matthew Winters Park

Distance: 4.5 miles RT
Elevation: 6,200 - 6,771 ft
Elevation Gain: 1, 296 ft cumulative (lots of ups and downs)


The south side of the Morrison Slide Trail at Matthew Winters Park
Matthew Winters is a close in Jefferson County Open Space with unique views of Red Rocks and the Morrison Valley. It is a tour through geologic history. In the spring, the nearby Dakota Ridge Trail is home to migrating raptors. The best time to visit is during the week. On weekends and after work, hikers and mountain bikers mob the park.


Starting out on the Village Walk Trail


Looking back on the Red Rock Trail from the north side Morrison Slide Trail


The Morrison Valley from the middle of the Morrison Slide Trail. The Dakota Ridge is visible in the distance with city of Denver beyond.
My favorite route starts with the west side of the Village Walk Trail. This short 0.3-mile trail wanders uphill through waving grasses and passes an ancient cemetery. It connects with the Red Rocks Trail, which continues upwards along the side of a sloping hill. The views increase as the trail winds westward. Deer can be seen far below in the narrow shrub filled canyon that parallels the route. After 0.8 miles, the hiker descends into this canyon where two options present themselves. One can head steeply up to the Morrison Slide Plateau or head down below the plateau. I always choose to head upwards first. And return via the lower route. The upward route is the Morrison Slide Trail.



Another view of the Morrison Valley


Red Rocks from the Morrison Slide Trail
The Morrison Slide Trail (1.2 miles) if very scenic indeed. Once on top of the plateau, the views extend out into the plains and down the Morrison Valley. The uplift of the Dakota Ridge formation is startlingly evident and the observer can follow the layers of sedimentary rock going back to the Permian Age. These layers are now fins of uplifted rock that make up the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, and they extend all the way down the valley. The far side of the Morrison Slide Trails takes the hiker back down the south side of the Plateau and wanders among large red rock boulders and fins. There are numerous lookouts and picnic spots along the end of the Plateau. This area is also exceptional for a full moon hike.


Looking back on the Morrison Slide trail


Morrison Slide trail
At the end of the Morrison Slide Trail, the hiker can loop back via the lower portion of the Red Rocks Trail, or continue southward for another 1.2 miles to Red Rocks itself or to the connection on the other side of Hwy 26 of the Dakota Ridge Trail. I have never done either of the last two options. The return via the lower Red Rocks Trail (0.8 miles to the junction) is somewhat anticlimactic after all the rock formations, but it is open to the wide sky, which is on of the things I love best about Colorado. I always take the east fork of the Village Walk Trail (0.6 miles) for variety and to make the route longer.


Red rock formations coming down the south side of the Morrison Slide Trail
Matthew Winters Park is a haven for runners, hikers, bikers, but not necessarily dogs. As with all Jefferson County Open Space, dogs must be leashed and the trail is narrow, which make trail passing a challenge. Choose an off-hour time, however and you will have the park nearly to yourself.


More rock formations

Button Rock Preserve/Sleepy Lion Trail

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,960 – 6,420 ft
Elevation Gain: 460 ft

Ralph Pierce Reservoir viewed from the Sleepy Lion Trail. You can see Mt. Meeker in the distance.

Button Rock is a delightful and lesser-known open space just west of Lyons. It is dog friendly, contains views of distant Twin Sisters, and skirts a narrow reservoir bordered by pine trees. It is another of my favorite shoulder season hikes.


Creek along the initial part of the trail to the dam
The trail starts off in a large dirt parking area surrounded by high cliffs. On the west side of a wide gate, a broad flat road heads east towards the Ralph Price Reservoir. The road transects the canyon with several interesting water features along the way. If you continue heading west, you will end up at the base of the dam, but for a more interesting route, take the Sleep Lion Trail around a half-mile up the road. A large sign marks the trail.


These man-made falls are about half-way to the Sleepy Lion turn off.

Rocks along the Sleepy Lion Trail
The Sleepy Lion Trail winds through Ponderosa and Douglas fir. There are occasional open meadows and isolated red boulder formations. At the high point you can see the tip of Mt. Meeker and the double hump of Twin Sisters. There are also views of the reservoir itself.


Twin Sisters in the distance
From the highest vantage, the trail descends down an old rail bed to the base of the dam. Here a dramatic jet of water shoots out of the reservoir’s water control feature. It is difficult to pull oneself away from the chaotic and powerful display of man’s attempt to control nature.


The Ralph Pierce Reservoir seen from the Sleepy Lion Trail
On the far right-hand side of the dam is a short but steep trail up to the reservoir itself. This ascends several hundred feet through several highly eroded areas. Anyone used to Colorado’s steep ascents will find this short jaunt to be trivial. For those who wish an outing that is easier on the knees, skip the trail and head back down the broad road to the trailhead.


The old rail bed portion of the Sleepy Lion Trail
The Ralph Price Reservoir is an interesting and rarely visited place. There is no official trail that circumnavigates it, but you can walk along the right shoreline for a mile or so. In low years, there are boulders to nestle in and in high years, the deep blue waters of the reservoir lap the shoreline almost to the level of the trail. If the wind is not blowing too much, this is a pleasant place for a picnic.


Water jet

Base of the Button Rock Dam
To return to the trailhead, the hiker has two options, he can return down to the base of the dam via the steep trail or wander up and around to one of the dirt roads that skirt the area.


The deep blue of the Ralph Pierce Reservoir
On a sunny fall day, Button Rock can be a pleasant Front Range excursion. While known to the locals, it is rarely visited by those outside of Lyons. This does not mean that it will be uncrowded, however, but I have found that most visitors stay on the main road and do not take the more scenic but more strenuous Sleep Lion Trail.

Aphrodite Fritillary

Ok, it is still decently warm in Colorado but I am already bemoaning that winter is nigh so I was going back over some photographs I took one day at lunch on Boulder's Mesa Trail this spring.

This butterfly was only still for two seconds, so I was lucky to get it in focus. I believe it is an Aphrodite Fritillary (Speyeria aphrodite) although there are several butterflies that look similar and you really need to see their underwing to get an accurate identification.


The females lay eggs on violet plants but will feed on any type of flower. Unlike some of their moisture loving cousins, they are found in the plains. It was HOT this past summer if you recall. You know it is hot when the poison-ivy was wilting.

Fritillary by the way is a fancy term that means a "butterfly with brownish wings marked with black and silver"

Day 6: Sault St. Marie Lock Tour

The U.S. Soo Locks. Note the ore carrier in the left lock. The doors to the right lock are open. View live web cam of the soo locks.

On our last day of vacation, we bolted up to Sault (pronounced Soo) St. Marie to take a Lock Tour. We had no idea a priori whether this was a good use of our time but it toured out to be a blast. If you don’t want to go through the Locks, you can also just drive to the viewing platform about a mile up the road from the tour dock. Large ore carriers travel through the locks several times a day.


The lock doors closing


Looking up at an ore carrier already lifted up to the level of Lake Superior


Looking at the interior wall of the lock


A Coast Guard patrol boat shared our journey. Note the manned 50 cal machine gun. The Coast Guard is playing a vital role in the war on terror. The ore carrier that was on the left has already left. You can see it in the distance.



Looking back on the locks after exiting. The viewing platform can be seen on the right.
Sault St. Marie is the third oldest establishment in the United States being founded in 1688. Sault means to jump so this was a place to jump the St. Mary’s river.


Bridge to Canada

The locks exist because Lake Superior is several hundred feet higher than Lake Huron. St. Mary’s River connects to the bodies of water. The tour takes you by some of the rapids that still exist. The first locks were actually built in 1797 were destroyed in the War of 1812. The US built its first lock in 1855. The locks are run by the Federal Government and are free to all passing ships.


Captain Mary, one of two female ship captains on the St. Mary's River.

A pavilion on the Canadian side of the river.
The boat tour takes you through the locks, up around to a steel mill, back through the locks, over to the rapids, and the finally along the Canadian side of the river. The captain of our boat is one of only two female captains on the river. She was quite interesting to talk to.


Pile of salt on the edge of the river


This ore carrier cruised by just as we were disembarking from the tour. I could sit and watch them all day. Is it any wonder I ended up in the Navy?

If you are ever in the area, the tour is worth doing. If this interests you, check out the Soo locks visitor's center web site for more information.

I hope you have enjoyed this virtual travel diary as much as we enjoyed living it. Many thanks to Nina at Black Coffee at Sunrise for all her travel tips.

Day 5: Grand Hotel Mackinac Island

(Left: The dress code at the hotel is posted on the walk way in). As I mentioned in my previous post, we had initially intended to stay at the Grand but they were booked with a convention. We toyed with at least having dinner at the hotel but all women must where skirts after 6pm and we decided it was not worth bringing dress clothes for one night. This trip was just not that kind of trip. Our primary focus was hiking and outdoor activities. Our second choice was to at least have lunch to see what kind of spread you would get for a $42 lunch buffet. We screwed that one up too though by mismanaging our time. We should have gone to lunch first and hit the fort second. We did not know that the lunch ended at 2pm. Oh well, we had a panini in the hallway, which at least tasted good. I cannot say that any meal we had on the island was worth having again. We anticipated many gourmet restaurants to choose from but there were not.

The grounds of the Grand Hotel are open to the public for a $10 fee. Most people just want to sit on the porch but there are other things to see. We headed to the wine bar after lunch thinking it would a pleasant place to lounge. Alas, it was so filled with cigarette smoke that we bolted back outside.


The famous porch


Carriages pass each other on the street below
The porch is very nice and on a summer day it must be a mob scene. We were wrapped in our jackets and did not linger for hours. You can see the Mackinac bridge from the porch and watch the ships transit the straights.


Chess set on the porch
I also enjoyed wandering the grounds below the hotel. There is a beautiful fountain, lovely flowers, and a horse and carriage topiary. The grounds were much more peaceful than the hustle and bustle of the porch.


Fountain in the gardens


Flowers were blooming even in October


Topiary in the gardens
As I said in my previous post, the Grand Hotel is the attraction on the island. No one should miss it. I would like to test the cuisine to determine if the price tag is worth it. The atmosphere alone is not sufficient in my mind.

Day 5: Mackinac Bridge and Island

Main street. The fort can be see poking above the buildings.

Everyone we talked to about Michigan said we had to visit Mackinac (pronounced Mack-in-ahhhh) Island. While touristy, they said it was a unique experience. No cars are allowed on the island and the tourists get around in horse drawn carriages and on bicycles. The exclusion of cars is a less than successful attempt to keep the island locked in a Victorian era. I am not sure why people romanticize that era. Women were trundled up in corsets, certainly could not vote, and lord help us, but there were no feminine hygiene products. Give me the future any day. I am anxiously waiting for the Enterprise transporter to whisk me off to Paris for dinner and give me the perfect body while at it! While horses have a smaller carbon footprint compared to a gas-guzzling, car-smashing Hummer, they do stink, which definitely intrudes upon the romantic air the island would like to project to the outside world.


Driving over the Mackinac Bridge


Shepler's Ferry
Before heading to the island, we decided to drive over the Mackinac Bridge, which is the largest suspension bridge in the world. This was a cheap thrill but the views from the bridge made the $2 toll worth it.


Main street heading east. Park on the left is just below the fort
Being a former Naval Officer, I was really looking forward to the ferry ride to the island. What is nice about the place we were staying was the fact that they handled all of our luggage so we did not have to worry about getting it to the hotel. We found out later that we paid a hefty $12 per person, regardless whether we had bags or not for this privilege. It took about 20 minutes to cross to the island and cost $17 per person round trip. That was with my military discount, so you’ll pay slightly more. I did enjoy being out on the water and seeing the Grand Hotel come into view.

(Left: One of the ubiquitous fudge shops. Most of the store clerks were young kids who were less then friendly. ) There are four major attractions on the island, the Grand Hotel, which I will cover in detail in my next post, the main shopping drag, the bike route around the island, and the fort. We managed to do all of these things in a day and a half. Frankly, the only one worth doing was the Grand Hotel. We had actually planned on staying there but a huge convention had booked all the rooms. This was probably for the best because the rates at the grand hotel are $300 per person per night. That would have been $900 per night for three of us. Not many places in the world are worth that kind of money. That price did include breakfast and dinner. The pictures of the rooms I found on the Internet were also very unappealing…more of that kitschy Victorian stuff. Still, as you will hear in my next post, the Grand Hotel is THE attraction on the island. Don’t bother going to the island if you are not considering staying there or at a bare minimum spending a lot of time there.


The famously photographed limestone arch. The hike up is short and the views very nice. The carriage tours take the less active visitors there directly.


View of Lake Huron from the arch
The main shopping drag turned out to be surprisingly short and very monochromatic. The stores consist of Fudge shops and more fudge shops and T-shirt joints. I was expecting something a little more upscale to be honest.


Walkway up to the fort. We wanted to have a hot drink at the Fort Mackinack cafe. You have to pay admission to the fort to each there. The guide books say this cafe is in the lower level which is misleading because that implies that is below this walkway. It is not. There are two "levels" within the fort itself.
Renting a bike and cruising the island would normally be a very pleasant diversion but on our day, it was butt-numbing cold and I was chilled through despite my many layers. My two companions proclaimed me to be a total wimp since they did not seem bothered by the weather at all. It costs $35 a day to rent a bike and the ride around the island is only 8 miles. There are other interior routes, but because I was begging for something hot to drink we opted for the fort vice a mono-speed climb over the interior hills and dales. As such we really did not get our money’s worth that day, but I can image that on a spring or summer day, such a jaunt would be idyllic.


There are three ferry lines that service the island. This one shoots out a jet. They are easy to spot transiting the straight.
I had received a Navy fix on the ferry ride over but also received an Army fix at the fort, which has a commanding view of the waterfront. Alas, we did not have nearly enough time to spend at the fort because we wanted to catch the $42 lunch buffet at the Grand (we missed it), but I did get to see the Officer’s Quarters and the cool animatronic figures depicting the attack in 1812 (shudder but they surrendered w/o a shot being fired). I don’t know what is wrong with the Army today. Back then, the fort was commanded by a 1LT, who made enough money to hire a small platoon of servants to keep house for him and his family. When I was a LTJG/1LT I was sleeping on an air mattress because I could not afford a real one. There is a large and impressive museum as well that we breezed through. You could easily spend several hours there if military and early American history interests you.

The rest of that first day was spent at the Grand Hotel, which I will cover in my next post.


Lighthouse viewed from the western side of Main street. Note the handles of all the bikes.
I suppose everyone needs to visit Mackinac Island at least once, but in retrospect I wish we had stayed near Munising. There was much more to do in that area. As crowded as it was on the Island in October, I would hate to see the mobs in the summer.