Monday, November 29, 2010

Spague Lake Nature Loop

Distance: 0.9 mile loop
Elevation: 8,694 ft
Elevation Gain: None

Delightful Sprague Lake with Hallet Peak in the background

The trail around Sprague Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park near Estes Park is short, flat, and very scenic. I took my parents there on their recent Colorado vacation. We ate lunch on one of many picnic tables near the trailhead and then strolled the short route around the lake. The trail is well groomed, totally flat, and suitable for everyone. The views change constantly providing a great deal of variety in a short distance.

The bridge from the picnic area to the lake

Trout were abundant in the outlet stream

Sprague Lake has in interesting history as well. It is actually man made and was constructed by Abner Sprague who owned a lodge nearby long before the area became a National Park. You would never be able to tell this by the "naturalness" of the setting.

The loop going left (the route we took)

The loop going right

The lake is well stocked with fish and you can actually see them in the outlet stream and even larger specimens along the lake shore.

Looking southwest in early October on my first visit. Note the fisherman standing well out in the water

The sudden and welcome view of the Continental Divide. No wonder Abner built the lake here.

The first time I visited this lake, I only walked part way around, trying to judge if it would be suitable for the parental units. I did not notice at that time the stunning views of the Continental Divide including Hallett (12,713 ft), Taylor (13,153 ft), and Otis (12,486 ft) peaks that greet the visitor half way around. I wish ole Abner had sold his land to me so I could have that view for my living room window.

Small viewing platform

Across from the view platform the lake shore is bordered by reeds.

If you visit Rocky Mountain National Park, don't exclude Sprague Lake from your list, particularly if you are staying at the nearby Glacier Gorge Campground. There is a short 0.8 mile trail between the campground and the lake.

A final view of the lake and the reflections of the trees in the still waters

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Stellar's Jay

This Stellar's Jay was flitting about Loch Vale in Rocky Mountain National Park. The persistent winds kept blowing its crest into wild, punk rocker coiffures.

One of my earliest childhood memories is of a Stellar's Jay (Cyanocitta stelleri) stealing my lunch. They are notorious throughout the the far western portion of North America, particularly in National Parks. This specimen in Rocky Mountain National Park fit the stereotype perfectly. "He" was jumping all around me in a continuous circle hoping for a crumb or direct handout. Such behavior, while convenient for photographers, is heart breaking to see. No wild animal should subsist on any food than an American chooses to put in its mouth. Their real diet is berries, nuts, seeds, small crawly things, and even small rodents. We could learn a lot from this...minus the small crawly things of course!

The Stellar's Jay is a large bird, with a tall, dark crest. Related to the Blue Jay, it is also called the Pine Jay, Mountain Jay, or Long-crested Jay. Its large pointed beak can intimidate children or novice hikers who find their aggressive tactics a little too Jurassic Park for their tastes. True to form, the bird has learned to mimic the call of the Red-tailed Hawk. This vocalization scares off other birds so that the Stellar's Jay can sneak in to a prime feeding area.

Stellar's Jays are know to hybridize with Blue Jays. This specimen has some white markings on its head. Could it have come from an inter-racial assignation?

I am so used to this bird, that I was quite surprised to learn that its range is very limited and that east of the Rockies it is virtually unknown. Out here, however, you can't set foot in a coniferous forest or open woodland without seeing one. If you do, just remember to hold on to your lunch!

Monday, November 22, 2010

Loch Vale Hike

Distance: 6 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,787 ft - 10,220ft
Elevation Gain: 1,433 ft
Critters: Stellar's Jay
Tags: #rmnp, #coloradooutdoors, #hike, #mountainlake

Loch Vale in Rocky Mountain National Park

Loch Vale is a classic hike in Rocky Mountain National Park that many visitors do on their summer vacations. It is relatively easy, has interesting milestones along the way, and ends at a spectacular lake. It is suitable for beginning hikers.

The well groomed trail starts out in a grove of young Aspens.
The trail follows Glacier Creek, which is particularly attractive in the fall.

Another trail segment
The trail to Loch Vale begins at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. At 0.9 miles is Alberta Falls, which rages in the spring and is frozen over in the winter. Tourists gather about the rocks snapping pictures of themselves. Be sure to stop here and look down into the gorge as well. This part of the trail is broad and well manicured. It winds through juvenile Aspens and conifers.

Alberta Falls
Above Alberta Falls, the trails switchbacks up the hillside until it enters Glacier Gorge, a wind tunnel filled with stunning rocks and "peak-a-boos". Along the way are large pull outs for landscape photography.

Looking north from one of the many view points along the trail to Glacier Gorge
At 2.23 miles is the junction with Mills Lake and Lake Haiyaha. From this point, the trail heads up a series of switchbacks with views of the gorge. The switchbacks are not long or arduous. At the top is Loch Vale. There is a trail that circumnavigates the lake and lots of "beaches", rocks, and peninsulas to lounge on.

The left side of the Glacier Gorge
Looking up Glacier Gorge
In the winter, this spot is one of the coldest in Colorado, but on this trip in early October it was balmy. My friend and I sat by the lake and ate lunch. An aggressive Stellar's Jay kept us company and ogled our sandwiches.

Heading up the switchbacks to the Loch Vale

Looking up the Gorge that we snowshoe in winter. Those boulders are much larger than they look.

If you are visiting Rocky Mountain National Park, add this trail to your list. It won't disappoint. Add one mile to your trip and visit Mills Lake on the way back. From the LochVale/Mills trail junction it is a short 0.5 miles and minimal elevation gain to Mills.

Wind blown Bristlecone Pines on a peninsula jutting out into the lake

Monday, November 15, 2010

Scenic Drive: Stillwater Reservoir Area

The entrance to the Stillwater Area with Flat Top Mountain (12,354 ft) in the distance

I decided to post a couple of picture from our drive between Yampa and the Devil's Causeway Hike. While not as scenic as the Flat Tops Scenic Byway, the drive had several spots worth noting.

A slope covered with past peak Aspens. This area seems more wind blown than the northern area that the Flat Tops Scenic Byway goes through.

The Chinese Wall and one of the reservoirs

Looking down on the Bear River as it winds lazily through the valley. There were several fisherman standing in the call waters.

Looking back down the valley

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Devils Causeway Hike

Distance: 6.0 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,298 ft - 11,608 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,721 ft
Dogs: Voice and Sight Control (Flat Tops Wilderness)
Date Hiked: 21 Sept 2010
Tags: #hiking, #coloradooutdoors, #FlatTops, #gearguide
Other Trails in the area: Trapper's Lake, Skinny Fish Lakes, Flat Tops Scenic Drive
Topo Map: Flat Tops




The Devil's Causeway is a small eroded spit of land connecting two ridges.  While those without a fear of heights can just walk across, most other humans cower before it. The Devils Causeway

Devil's Causeway is one of the most notorious hikes in Colorado. This hike, which ascends the Chinese Wall in the Flat Tops Wilderness, contains a narrow 3-foot wide, 25-yard long segment of broken rock with 1,500 ft drops on either side. This segment, which gives the trail its name, is demonic indeed. Anyone with the slightest bit of acrophobia will cower, cringe, and otherwise drool on themselves with anxiety. The pictures of this chunk of rock do nothing to convey the emotional impact of the drop off so don't be fooled. This is a PTSD inducing experience. Save time and bring along a psychiatrist.

Trailhead with bathrooms

Hiking along the lake

If you ARE wickedly afraid of heights, don't skip this trail. The Causeway is down the ridgeline and there are several lovely spots to lounge on less scary spots to admire the views. To the south is Flat Top Mountain and to the north is the Lost Lake region. I could have stayed up there all day watching the raptors fly in the distance.

Sunlight glinting off the lake

Wispy clouds and suspended raptor

The trailhead for Devil's Causeway is at the far end of Stillwater Reservoir west of Yampa. The road dead ends into a large parking area near the dam. The trail follows the shoreline of the reservoir for 0.8 miles and minimal elevation gain before cutting inland to another trailhead. Take the right fork for the East Fork Trail. This is the trail to the Causeway.

Trail junction with the East Fork Trail

The Chinese Wall comes into view

After the fork, the trail wanders through a Lodgepole/Fir forest and at 1.08 miles comes to the Wilderness Boundary and the first good view of the Chinese Wall. At 1.63 miles the trail breaks out of the trees and traverses a long slope covered in talus. To the left is Little Causeway Lake and in front is a bare basin with an obvious saddle. The route looks more intimidating than it is. It does not take very long to get to the base of the saddle. Be sure to turn around every once in a while to admire the view behind you.

Heading into the trees

The first view of the saddle

From the base of the saddle, there are a series of lazy switchbacks. We met two hikers coming down who had just returned from the Causeway. One indicated that he had gotten about 1/3 of the way across but turned around because of the shifting winds. The other gentlemen indicated that he had been up to the Causeway at least 6 times and each time he had only been able to get within 50 yards of it. This served to freak me out and I started getting the ebbie jebbies on the uppermost switchback that narrowed unnervingly. Fortunately, the saddle is a broad plateau and not a narrow ridge. While the wind was blowing like Zeus, I at least could catch my psychological breath.

The trail heads across the talus field to the right.

Little Causeway Lake from the talus slope

The ascent up to the top of the Chinese Wall looks more intimidating than it is. While there is a drop off on either side, the trail travels up the middle with limited views on either side. The biggest challenge is that the route is very steep and very loose. At one point I could not stand up at all and was leaning into the slope with my feet sliding backwards in the dust. There was nothing for my hands to grab onto except a few loose rocks and more dust. Be sure to take a break half way up to admire the view.

Heading across flats toward the saddle


My destination from the area below the saddle

At the top of the ridge is an area filled with willows and rocks. To the right was a nice flat area where I dumped by pack. No way was I taking it to the Causeway. The wind had died down a bit which was nice. I started walking towards the Causeway, camera in hand. It is a short 2 minute walk. As soon as it came into view, I started cackling nervously and I confess a few unprintable explicatives passed my lips.

Getting closer to the saddle

Looking down on the switchbacks

As trail became more and more narrow and I continued on much to my personal amazement. I was on the cusp of the rocky portion of the Causeway when all of a sudden the vertigo hit as my peripheral vision picked up the drop offs on both sides. I landed with an ignominious thud in the dirt. I quickly wedged by butt into a small rock circle to give my mind the illusion of stability. Nuclear War or perhaps a slobbering carnivore might have gotten me moving again, but not much else. I turned around and my hiking partner had collapsed about 30 yards behind me. I coaxed her forward to my position. I have heard Devils Causeway described this way...walking, walking, walking, HIT THE DECK. I found this to be startlingly true.

On the saddle. Note the wind-filled jacket.

Looking up at the final pitch

From my vantage point I could look, after much Lamaze breathing, straight down the right side of the wall. Lost Lake valley loomed in the distance, and the wall curved photogenically around to the right. While I snapped pictures of the view, the dogs poked around on the rocks, increasing my vertigo with each bounding leap.

The view to the east from half way up the final pitch

On top of the Chinese Wall. The Devil's Causeway is just ahead. Would you go any further?

Finally, after sitting there for 10 minutes or so my mind said enough and I lumbered upwards and flung myself back down the trail. Reaction to this story has been mixed. Some of my friends have shuddered at the mere thought, others have laughed knowing that they crawled on their bellies across. Devil's Causeway is a highly personal experience.

The dogs frolic on the Devil's Causeway. This picture makes it seem a broad plateau. It feels much more narrow.

The view of the Chinese Wall from my butt-planted position.

Fall colors on the left side of the Wall

Since the views of Flat Tops is so spectacular, I found my pack and moved to a large plateau where I could lounge, eat, and reflect. As I said in my intro, if you don't like heights, ascending to the wall for lunch is still a viable option.

Lost Lake and the north side of the ridge

Flat Top Mountain from my lunch spot



This hike is featured in Colorado's Hundred Classic Hikes. I have yet to hike a trail in this book that was not spectacular. Buy from Amazon and I will receive a small commission.


Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Trappers Lake

The amphitheater is the most recognized feature around Trappers Lake

Trappers Lake is at the heart of the Flat Tops Wilderness. Once a gem of phenomenal beauty, it is now scared by the skeletal remains of the 2002 Big Fish Fire. When I chose this destination, I had no idea of this fire. Most guidebooks of the area were written before this date and don't include it in their descriptions.

Crossing the outlet

Looking southeast from across the outlet

The lake, which is a true wilderness lake, must be walked into although the walks are as short as 1/4 mile. I took pictures at two common areas. The first is from the Outlet Trail on the north side of the lake. As you drive in, the road forks just past the local lodge. The left fork dead ends at a berm. The outlet trail climbs up this berm and then circumnavigates the lake. There are many pretty spots within a half mile for those not interested in walking far. The second spot was past the campgrounds on the right fork. We followed the road to the Wall Lake Trailhead, turned left and parked in the large parking area. There is a short trail out to an overlook.

A close up of the same formation

Trapper's Lake is also known as the beginning of the Wilderness movement. In 1920, the Forest Service hired Arthur Carhart to survey the area for potential development. Carhart was so moved by the beauty of the area that the lake was protected from all development. This concept was quite new at the time and served as the seed for the establishment of the Wilderness Act.

From the southern overlook

A close up of the willows in the fading light

There is a lodge near the lake that has cabins and a small restaurant. The lake is 1.5 miles by 0.5 miles wide and is 180 ft deep. There are numerous trails in and around the area. We hiked Skinny Fish Lake, which is a few miles before the lake.

North Rock Creek Snowshoe

Distance: 4 miles round trip Elevation: 9,180 ft to 9,780 ft Elevation Gain: 600 ft Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary North...