Nova Scotia: Skyline Trail

Distance: 5.7 miles round trip
Elevation: 1,500 ft
Elevation Gain: Minimal
Critters: Moose

The end of the Skyline Trail looks out over the ocean in a series of cascading wooden steps and platforms with benches. The view opens up only the last quarter mile though.

Since we had only one day on the Cabot Trail, we knew we could only pick one hike. The Skyline Trail is the iconic trail in the Highlands National Park. It is in all the brochures, and even the park rangers were gushing. We were worried that ~6 miles round trip would take up too much of our day, but the Skyline is practically flat, so it only took us 2 hours to do.

All the pictures of this trail show the far end when the trail becomes a boardwalk over the bog. There is quite a bit of walking through the trees to get to this point, however, so be forewarned.

The first 0.5 miles of the trail is along a broad service road.

The trailhead is off the main road, but then you walk 0.5 miles up a wide service road before the real trailhead. There is a small bathroom there and a ranger standing by to educate the curious about the Moose in both English and French. As I walked by I saw the ranger hold up a jar of Moose droppings and as a women in French if she would like some chocolate. Ah! My 4 years of high school French just paid off! Now I know those things on the ground are actually chocolate left by the thoughtful Canadian Rangers. I wish our rangers were as kind to hungry hikers.

Moose (Alces alcies americana) on the narrow forested trail.

It was not long up the trail before we ran into a crowd staring that the rather large butt of a Moose sticking out of the trees. I have been wanted to capture a Coloradoan Moose for this blog for so long that I almost had an epileptic fit. Alas, I was snapping pictures so quickly, my auto focus did not have time to catch up. Then much to the delight of all present, another Moose just started walking up the trail right towards us. I am guess this was the kid of the much larger Moose whose butt we were not intimately familiar with. It took off into the woods, which was a good thing because passing a Moose, no matter how diminutive, on a narrow trail is no easy thing.

The trail also traversed small patches of mixed deciduous forest.

As I mentioned above, the Skyline trail is narrow and winds through coniferous forest before opening up to a barren area with many dead trees. The forest had been killed off and the new trees have been attracting the Moose, which have been eating the young, replacement trees, leaving the area barren. The Park Service has fenced off an area to see what would happen to the plant succession without the Moose.

I took this shot on a short social trail that exited the forest.

The trail contains patches of other trees and then low shrubs when on nears the boardwalk. 1,500 ft above the ocean, the boardwalk does contain dramatic views. There are platforms with benches all the way down to a low hill. We decided to stay on the upper platform for the most broad view. A large eddy could be seen to the left and the spouts of whales were visible to the naked eye off shore.

Reaching the boardwalk

We had hoped that the heat wave that was hitting Nova Scotia would be less daunting in the park where the terrain was open to the ocean breezes. Alas, it was 28C with no wind. We were roasting. There is limited infrastructure in the park, and our 1 Liter of water a piece was dwindling fast. I felt quite exhausted by the time we reached the car where I downed that last of my horded water and blasted the air con. I can imagine on a typical day, the Skyline Trail would be quite chilly.

Nova Scotia: Cabot Trail

The iconic photo of the Cabot Trail inside the Cape Breton National Park. Much of the drive is in the trees, so this is one of the best views.

The Cabot Trail and Cape Breton National Park are listed by many travel magazines as one of the most scenic drives in the world. There are parts of the drive that are panoramic indeed and other parts that are best seen at 80 miles an hour...not that you can go that fast by any means on Canada's roads. With all the hype, we just had to go.

The Acadian side of the island. This area was filled with open fields, houses, and Acadian flags.

It took us 5 hours to drive from Lunenburg to Beddeck on Cape Breton Island and in hindsight, we might have chosen to stay in the south. When you travel, you make choices, however, and never really know if it was the right one until you have seen it all. If I had to do it over again I would I have spent my time entirely in the south or entirely on Cape Breton. Trying to touch both was too much for a one-week vacation. The guide books are very clear about this too, but if you think you may never get back to a certain area it is hard to not want to hit the highlights.

One of the ocean views from a pull out in the park.

Looking deep into the park from another pull out. The guide book had me thinking much of the park was Highland bog. As you can see it is very forested. Most of the park is inaccessible due to the deep canyons that can be seen here.

We stayed in Beddeck for two nights so that we had a whole day to drive the Cabot Trail. Tour buses do this in about 8 hours. The guide books recommend 3 days. We wanted to start at 8:00 AM but really did not get going until 9:00 AM and returned by 8:00 PM. We did go hiking in the National Park, which added a couple of hours to the day. Our hike will be the subject of my next post.

St. Lawrence Bay. This area is off the Cabot Trail. It sits on the far northern tip of Cape Breton. The CD we were listening to indicated the trip was a worthy detour. We had intended to go all the way to Meat Cove but decided time and day light were running short. We talked to some tourist in the airport who stayed there. There was no food and no one told them.

The proprietor of our Inn gave us a CD with a narrated driving tour of the Cabot Trail. This made our trip. There is so much cultural history in the area that we would have missed had we not heard the CD. We learned about the Acadian side of the island and could recognized the Acadian flags (French with a gold star) as well as the Scottish side. We learned about the fishing camps and the history of the National Park. If you can find this CD before you go, you will enjoy it.

Neil's Harbor and the many types of fishing floats. There is a restaurant here but we were not yet ready for dinner so we continued on.

The guides books all mentioned how harrowing the drive is through the National Park. Those travel writers need to come to Colorado if what to know what a understand the definition of harrowing! The drive was no worse than I-70 and did not even come close to Red Mountain Pass or Trail Ridge Road.

A view on Middle Head, a narrow peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic. The Cabot Lodge is just behind me. There is a trail that all the books recommend in this spit of land. We did not have time to do two hikes, however.

The author sitting at the Keltic Lodge.

At the end of our journey, we ate dinner at the Cabot Lodge, which was on the cover of our guide book. South of this area there are many artist studios that would have been fun to visit but they were all closed by the time we got there. We could have returned the next day since they are relatively close to Beddeck, but instead we decided to take a boat tour to the bird islands. I will post that trip shortly.

We came across this beach south of Cape Smokey. The sun was just beginning to set.

In an ideal universe, spending several days on the Cabot Trail would be ideal. Be advised though that infrastructure is definitely lacking in places, so planning your stops is required.

Nova Scotia: Crescent Beach

The flat, packed sands of Crescent Beach

On the fourth day of our trip, we decided to go walking on the beach to escape the heat. We asked some of the locals their favorite beaches and Crescent Beach kept coming up so we decided to head there.

The southern end of the beach

Nova's Scotia coastline is filled with nooks and crannies and there are sandy beaches tucked here and there. The trick is knowing which ones are good for which activity. The best thing to do is ask. The locals we talked to liked Crescent beach because it was good for swimming, walking and you can drive on it.

We came across this Inukshuk that someone had placed on a boulder. It is a type of cairn used in the Arctic to mark a cache of food or hunting grounds. It is the symbol of the far northern Canadian province and will be the symbol of the upcoming Olympic games in Vancouver.

There is a long way and a short way to get to Crescent Beach. The long way takes one up and through Bridgewater while the short way hops the La Have River Ferry ($5 each way). We chose the later and managed to time it right. Taking a ferry is a fun experience.

At the northern end of the beach was another small beach that ended in this headland.

More glacier gouged rocks

I think I mentioned the fact that we had only brought warm clothes with us on this trip, anticipating typical cool temperatures. Did we bother to bring any of those clothes with us to the beach? Gosh no, we put on shorts and t-shirts, borrowed from the house we were staying in, and ignorantly headed off to the coast, it was after all only a half hour's drive south from Lunenburg. Foolish mortals!! We didn't freeze, but we were not warm either. There was a very brisk and cool breeze blowing in from the sea that made us wish for pants and a sweat shirt. I gamely did without while my travel companion wrapped a towel around her shoulders. Our visions of reading trashy novels in the sand was dashed the moment we arrived. Still, we had a lovely if brisk walk along the ocean, the first real exercise we had gotten since our arrival.

The sands of the small extension beach. There was a lovely home on a cliff to the right.

On the way back I kept observing large burly men wandering in the breakers with pitchforks. I finally talked to one who was coming out of the water and asked him what they were up to. Turns out the pitchforks were used to hunt for clams in the sand. The men were moving the pitchforks up and down in short rabid bursts as they walked along. They would feel for clams that were disturbed by the pitchfork with their toes. The water was very cold. Some of the men were in wet suits while others were just in shorts and a t-shirts. Seemed like a very cold way of scrounging up dinner.

On the headland, gazing back up the beach

After our walk we decided to explore further south to Cherry Hill Beach. This beach looked very nice indeed but the fog was so thick by the time we got there and the wind was blowing so hard we decided to head back. We assumed, very foolishly that this lovely fog would be making its way to Lunenburg to cool things off. Alas, when we reached the town the heat had hit us like a ton of bricks.

The encroaching fog and a healed over sailboat from the La Have River Ferry

Nova Scotia: St. Margaret's Bay

The much photographed Peggy's Cove Lighthouse

On our second full day in Nova Scotia we headed off to the prime tourist attraction of Peggy's Cove, the most photographed spot in the province. Since we lingered on the front porch until almost 11AM, we decided to take the inland highway (103) to exit 5 and then cut in on the coastal route (333). There is a visitor's center near the turn off for 333 that is worth stopping for. There is also a very large grocery store. Had we known about the small size of Lunenburg's stores, we would have stocked up. We asked the docent at the Visitor's Center about food farther down and she said there was a great place at Peggy's Cove itself and not to worry. We should have worried! Pack a lunch if you go to Peggy's Cove!

Glacial erractics on the Swissair Memorial Trail

The drive down 333 was our first realization that these scenic coastal roads can be entirely in the trees. We were almost to the Cove before we could see the sea.

View of the Atlantic Ocean and the scoured rocks from the Memorial

Two kilometers west of the Cove is a pull off for the Swissair Memorial. This short walk was delightful. In 1998 and MD-11 aircraft crashed off the coast killing all 229 aboard. The memorial itself is tasteful but the views from the trail are what drew me.

An erratic and a view of Peggy's Cove in the hazy distance

From the memorial site, the unique geology of the area is readily seen. Like Blue Rocks, the area around Peggy's cove has been greatly affected by glaciation. The stark granite and dramatic coastline is the result of glaciers ripping away all the topsoil as they lumbered southward from the Arctic. The numerous boulders that dot the area, called glacial erratics, were carried by the glacier and deposited there as the glacier receded. They reminded me of Jimmies on top of a child's cupcake. You can also see Peggy's Cove in the distance, but the day we went it was slightly hazy and Peggy's Cove was obscured. Unfortunately, there is no trail beyond the memorial through this very interesting area.

Tidal rocks closer to the ocean

The village of Peggy's Cove is quaint, but after seeing Blue Rocks the night before, we were less impressed. This had less to do with the area and more to do with the miles of cars and "hordes" of tourists scurrying to and fro. We decided to drive up to the lighthouse itself rather than park down by the visitor's center. It costs $5 to park at the lighthouse, which is refunded if you buy something in the gift shop or restaurant. Since it was our intent to eat lunch there we did not have any issues with this.

The crowds like ants crawling all over the rocks

Since it was 1PM and we were starving, we made a bee-line for the restaurant. Enter disappointment. The place was mobbed, there was a long line to get in, and the prices were tourist-trap exorbitant. We decided to starve a little longer and bought a box of maple cookies in the gift shop, which we ate out on the rocks. After walking around for 15 minutes or so, snapping the obligatory pictures, we decided to head further down highway 333 to escape the crowds. This was a good choice.

A little ways beyond Peggy's Cove toward Halifax is West Dover. This quiet village had a decent restaurant right on the water. We pounced with grumbling stomachs. Sitting out on the deck with its colorful umbrellas we ate fish and chips and drank beer and congratulated ourselves on our good fortune.

A close up of the smooth granite

Feeling adventurous, we decided to continue up 333 towards Halifax even though it was inland. This route gets increasingly suburban but has some nice views of lakes and vacation homes. Once back on 103, we headed south again to exit 5 where we started. Here we got off the highway and returned to the coastal route (highway 3 going south) along St. Margaret's Bay. This drive along St. Margaret's Bay to Lunenburg is supposed to be one of the scenic wonders of the area. We particularly like the area around the Head of St. Margaret's Bay, a more developed vacation community in a sheltered inlet but found much of the route shrouded in trees. You can take 3 straight across, be we chose to follow 329 around the crenulation in the middle of the area. There were some nice views from this peninsula, but few places to stop and take pictures, an issue that would plague me the entire trip. Nova Scotia is very scenic, they just don't have the tourist infrastructure we are used to here in the US for scenic drives. Here there would have been vehicle turn outs every mile or so and certainly at every vista.

Quite thirsty we pulled into Chester looking for a cafe to wet our whistle. At 2pm in the afternoon the microscopic town was closed down except for the pub. We grabbed a soda to go there and continued on our way.

The view from the deck of the restaurant in West Dover. A much nicer atmosphere than the crowded tourist trap at Peggy's Cove.

The farther away we got from the exposed Atlantic coastline the hotter it became. By the time we reached Mahone Bay it was stifling and we had no desire to get out of the car and walk around. I took a quick photo of the much talked about church and jumped quickly back into the air conditioned car.

At this point the sun was setting and our predictable stomachs were talking to us again so we boogied back to Lunenburg in search of sustenance.

The three churches of Mahone Bay. Nothing stirred in the heat.

The drive from Peggy's Cove to Lunenburg was not as exciting as the guide book would lead one to believe. We found places to stop for photographs few and far between and more trees than we anticipated.

Nova Scotia: Blue Rocks

The coastline of Nova Scotia consists of thousands of small crenulated inlets. Most are small and very scenic.

Blue Rocks is a small fishing community 8 km north and ocean ward of Lunenburg. We drove out there our first evening. It did not take very long and the scenery was very picturesque. We also drove north to Somerset. This is what we had anticipated most of Nova Scotia looking like.

A lighthouse decoration along the route to Blue Rocks

Reflections of the trees and rocks in the still waters of an inlet

Throughout the area, evidence of glaciation could be seen in the rocks gouged in continuous straight lines, a testament to the power of nature.

Whale watching and other tours leave from various small wharfs near Blue Rocks

This hard rock was scraped by a glacier as easily as we might scrape frosting on a cake with a fork. All of the rocks around Blue Rocks had this feature.

During Hurricane Bill, locals drove out to this area to watch the waves. Considering that huge granite boulders were being tossed up on to the road with every breaker, this behavior was foolish, but it won't be the last of such stories I will tell along these lines.

The tide was out when we drove out to Blue Rocks.

The sunset on the way back was glorious

Nova Scotia: Lunenburg

Lunenburg waterfront

Lunenburg is billed as one of the most attractive towns in Nova Scotia and it is. I can also tell you that after visiting other supposedly attractive towns we came to appreciate it more and more. Lunenburg is filled with brightly painted buildings, excellent restaurants, and old fashioned sailing ships.

The back bay. This was the view from the porch of the home we stayed in. Anyone with less fortitude than I would not have survived tea every morning with this pastoral panorama.

Lunenburg is home of the Bluenose, an award winning schooner. We took a ride out on the Bluenose II, which I will describe in another post.

On the wharf

The town itself sits atop a hill and its gridded lanes are filled with 100 year old homes, flower boxes, and tall trees. Walking around town, particularly in the 30°C heat was a trial, however. The steep hills would normally have been trivial for us Coloradans but in the heat they resulted in near prostration. The town's real charm showed after Hurricane Bill had sucked the heat away and the fog returned. The old-fashioned signs, the filigree, and the street lamps all took on a special aura in the fog. This is a good thing since fog is Lunenburg's natural habitat.

The waterfront from out in the harbor

Because of the heat, I found myself drinking a great deal of beer on this trip. Most of the iced tea is sweetened and the sodas were sold by the can and also full of sugar. I found that the local brew Keith's fit the bill nicely and could be had in grog bowl quantities, a blessing on a hot day.

A downtown gallery

In 1995 the old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While a boost for tourism the locals were less than pleased. As anyone who has lived in a historic district knows, maintaining a home to historic standards is a pain. Every possible modification has to be approved. God forbid indoor plumbing should be desired.

A few shots of Lunenburg Homes

Lunenburg was settled not by the British, but by German, Swiss, and French immigrants. A memorial to the early settlers exists on Bunkhouse Hill and the names engraved on the stones are still seen in the phone book today.

Walking down Kempt Street to the main harbor

There are decent shops and nice galleries throughout the town, which tempt the walker away from the waterfront. We found the restaurants right along the harbor to be quite average although seafood was plentiful. Lunenburg does boast two fine dining establishments, one of which, the Fleur de Sel, was voted the best restaurant for 2008 for all of Nova Scotia. It was quite good but pricey as one might expect.

Sailing seems to be the national pastime of Nova Scotians. There were many in the harbor and other bays and inlets.

Since we had a house to stay in, we decided to hit the grocery store and stock up. There are two in town and both were very small. Seafood was sparse and much more expensive than beef or pork. The vegetables were also lacking, which explained why we didn't get any in our dinners out. It seems that many of the locals drive to Bridgeport about 20 minutes away to really stock up.

Some colorful dories along the shore

Many of the folks that live in Lunenburg are retired. There is not much work in the area outside of the tourism industry.

Lunenburg's primary colors are best seen from the water. In town, they don't stand out as much.

As a base of operations, Lunenburg proved ideal. We could easily travel north to Peggy's Cove and south to the many beaches that dot the nooks and crannies of the coastline.