Vogel Canyon

Distance: 2.25 miles
Elevation: 4,400 to 4,300 ft
Elevation Gain: 100 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes
Date Hiked: 10 April 2009

A few of the more visible petroglyphs from Vogel Canyon

I have lived in Colorado for ten years now and had no idea that the southeastern Plains are dotted with canyons. These are not Black Canyon of the Gunnison kind of canyons, but they are interesting nonetheless. The advantages of this area is that the canyons are filled with archeological points of interest as well as geologic wonders like dinosaur tracks.

The beginning of the hike starts out on a rock plateau. Cairns lead the way.

Vogel canyon is located 13 miles south of La Junta, which is the best place to stay if you plan to visit. A loop around the canyon is a short hike, suitable for an afternoon excursion. We hiked it after driving 3 hours from Denver. There are picnic tables and bathrooms there, but the nearest store is La Junta so plan accordingly.

The initial side canyon is filled with sandstone rock formations. Staghorn Cholla (Cylindropuntia veriscolor), which are first visible.

Staghorn Cholla bugs. These will fall off and grow roots.

The scenic attractions in Vogel Canyon are Indian petroglyphs, settler ruins, several fresh water springs, Staghorn Cholla cactus, unique rock formations, and lots of birds.

The canyon contains 4 separate trails. Our route traversed all of these in a loop that covered both the canyon floor and the plains above.

Approaching the petroglyph cliffs

This wall is actually filled with petroglyphs, but you have to look closely to see them.

Is this a real petroglyph or a vandal's damage? With so much destruction, it is hard to tell.

Our hike started out in the picnic area and the Canyon Trail. This trail starts out on a broad rock shelf. Cairns guide the hiker into a small unnamed side canyon. The ruins of the Westbrook homestead quickly come into view on the right, and within a half of a mile, a large rock face is clearly visible on the left. It is here that the petroglyphs can be found.

The first spring near the petroglyphs

Several side trails and sign posts guide the hiker to the glyphs, which have been badly vandalized. At one point some irreverent school kids spray painted them under the noses of their chaperon teachers. There are no words to describe what I would have liked to have done to those children. One thing is for sure; none of them would be reproducing.

The second spring off the main trail

There are reportedly many more glyphs in this area, but the Forest Service is justifiably hesitant to point them out to people. We undoubtedly missed some of the best ones in our quick run through the area. The glyphs are also very hard to see with the naked eye and even digitally enhancing the photos has not brought them out much. Compared to the petroglyphs at the V-bar-V ranch in Arizona, these glyphs seem hardly worth the effort. A little more patience might have revealed some better specimens.

Turning right and heading up into wider Vogel Canyon

Near the petroglyphs are one of two springs in the area. A natural spring is certainly a draw for both humans and wildlife. These are nestled next to large rock walls. Trees grow abundantly nearby. Note that there is a trail leading down from the first spring to the second, but this second spring is not on the main trail. In fact, it is in a side canyon near private property. It is worth walking down to it, but you will have to back track. The main trail actually heads off at right angle from the first spring.

Vogel Canyon becomes very marshy.

Stagecoach ruins

At this point, the trail heads up into Vogel Canyon proper. Vogel Canyon is wider than the unnamed canyon the route first traverses. It quickly becomes a marsh, and only the remains of fallen down Cairns indicate that one is on the correct route. The trail was also quite muddy here.

This is the trail we bushwhacked to. It eventually connected with the Mesa Trail. This trail originated down in the marsh just before the stagecoach ruins. It is not on the map. Note Staghorn Cholla.

Near the end of the canyon are the rock ruins of an old stagecoach stop, which was active from 1872 to 1876. I would like to see where this stagecoach went, because it seems very strange to have a stop down at the bottom of Vogel Canyon.

At last we found the real trail.

The trail guide we received from the Forest Service shows the Mesa and Prairie Trails splitting off from each other just beyond the stagecoach ruins. The drawing was not the best, however, and it looked as if the Mesa Trail split right at the ruins while the Prairie split a little farther. This led us to head up the cliff face, a short 100 ft scramble, right behind the ruins. This was not correct. The two trails do not split until they are up on the mesa itself. Cairns near the ruins show the way. We ended up bushwhacking across the prairie a bit before we intersected with the Mesa trail.

The Mesa Trail traverses a broad plateau of short grass prairie. There are occasional juniper trees and lots of big big sky. A hundred yards away from the edge of the canyon, and you would not be able to tell it was even there. At one point on this trail, there is a metal stairway built over the barbed wire fence. The view from the top of this lofty perch was actually quite pleasing…prairie as far as the eye could see.

View of the short grass prairie from the stairs that go over the fence

The Mesa Trail dead-ends into the Overlook Trail. To the left are the picnic grounds. To the right, the trail travels to the edge of the cliff face for a bird’s eye view into the canyon. Since it was getting late, we opted to head back to the car. The Overlook trail is wide and sandy. It is meant to be handicapped accessible.

Overlook Trail

Vogel Canyon is not the most impressive of the southeastern canyons but in the spring when the prairie is awash with wildflowers, it would be very pleasant indeed. It is such a shame that its unique petroglyphs have been so damaged and are so hard to see. People are pigs. Still, if you are near La Junta with nothing better to do, a stroll through Vogel Canyon may just brighten your day.

Red Fox

Learn about other Critters: Coyote, Golden-mantled ground squirrel, Mountain Goats,
Marmots, Moose

Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) crossing a road. Note the identifying black tips on the ears and the black legs.

Sly as a fox, is it mythology or biology? My morning spent Googling the Internet seems to indicate that it is both. Foxes have an uncanny ability to anticipate the future. When hunted, foxes have been known to double back on their trail, cut across streams at an oblique angle, run around in circles, and generally out whit their pursuers. This canid is smarter than your average bear and certainly smarter than my dog who will stare gap-jawed at a pile of scree because some Pika is tormenting it from the safety of little nook.

Take this fox's facial expression and put it on a human. How would you read it?

Since the Red Fox is one of the most wildly spread species in the world, spanning Alaska to Japan, its behavior has been well observed by indigenous peoples, so it is no wonder that the fox has served as a mythological model of cunning behavior. In Hopi mythology, the fox has been granted healing powers. According to Apache legend, it was the bringer of fire. The fox was also believed by many North American tribes to be a shape shifter. Those who wish to make themselves invisible are told to make the fox their totem.

Looking down a grassy slope. What tasty morsels lie in the grass?

The pictures in this post are of the Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes). It is the most common as well as the largest species of fox and is usually a rusty red with black ear tips and legs. There are actually four species of fox in Colorado, however. Gray Foxes have reddish ears and feet and prefer the Mountains. The Swift and Kit Fox are much smaller and have a coloring similar to the Coyote. They are rare and live out on the eastern Plains.

I have been observing the specimen in these pictures in the early morning in the grassy fields near where I work. It must have a den with kits nearby because I have seen it carry “take-out” rodent across the road. Foxes are the most active at dawn and dusk.

Scent marking

The Red Fox is a carnivore but has been known in other parts of the world to prefer invertebrates like crawfish. In Colorado, rodents, which are as varied here as a Chinese menu, are its primary fare. Given the fox’s reputation, however it is no wonder that they are also known to raid trashcans, pet bowls as well as discreetly dine on carrion.

Red Foxes are primarily monogamous, although the wide-ranging male is known to occasionally wander into other female’s territory “in search of food”.

Disappearing into the shrubbery

Regardless of your belief in spiritual totems, the Red Fox is always entertaining. It is a good parent, is not terribly frightened by humans, and its hunting behavior is amusing to watch. I always feel a little blessed when I get to see a Red Fox, they are just plain cute.

Day 6: Crescent Moon Creek

Distance: 2 miles round trip
Elevation: 4,000 ft
Elevation Gain: None

Folks love to lounge on the large red rock platforms near the western end of the park

You would think that our staying within steps of Crescent Moon Park would have tempted us before our last day, but since we had phenomenal views of Cathedral Rock right from our front porch the thought of walking along the creek was not as enticing and you might think.

Still, the park is home to one of the most photographed places in all of Sedona so I knew we would have to make the trek.

Crescent Moon is a picnic area with lovely trees and a creek side walk. The first half of this is paved but the other half is rocky, filled with tree roots, and a few rough areas. I say this from the perspective of my Mother who is not as nimble as she used to be. Anyone under 60 will find the trail quite easy.

Hoodoos at the far eastern end of the trail. Here one is practically on top of the vortex, which is technically on the other side of the creek. These hoodoos were EVERYWHERE.

I found out late in our trip that Cathedral Rock is home of one of Sedona's several vortexes (note, I am not misspelling the word, that is how the locals refer to them). These vortexes are supposed to be centers of concentrated earth energy. Lounging or meditating near a vortex is presumably uplifting. It is certainly a more novel tourist attraction than a curio store and it does have the added benefit of getting people outdoors. A little exercise in the sunshine is always uplifting to me.

One document I found online indicated that the vortex near Cathedral Rock was filled with feminine energy. It is supposed to increase one's compassion and empathy. No wonder I had avoided it all week. My father made a snide remark that I would have to hang out at the vortex for a VERY LONG TIME to see any increase in my feminine side.

Buddha Beach at the end of the trail. Just out of frame to the right was a nice long log for sitting. The hoodoos are also off to the right.

In contrast, I found out there is a masculine vortex up near the airport. No wonder I loved the Ridge Trail so much. The masculine vortex is supposed to increase one's self confidence and ambition. I feel some chest beating is in order!! No wonder I wandered off the trail and climbed down a gully, I was filled with masculine, "it can't happen to me" energy. Hmm, maybe there is something to this vortex thing after all!

Rock rock crossing. I had to stand in the mud with 20 other folks to get this shot.

Crescent Moon park is also a mecca for photographers as I have already mentioned. On this last day, I kept wandering over hoping to catch the sunset on the rocks where they are reflected in the water. By the time things were just getting ripe, a swarm of photographers with their tripods staked out plots of gooey mud along the creek bed each hoping I am sure for that quintessential shot. After a entire week of looking up at this admittedly scenic view, I was less enthused about elbowing in. My best shot of the rock was probably taken from our side yard, which incidentally was home to a meditating local for several days while we were there.

I don't know what she was smoking, but she jousted with invisible demons using a tree branch, swayed to and fro on rather unsteady feet, and finally left her shoes behind when she thankfully departed. One can take the whole vortex thing too far.

Cathedral Rock from our vacation rental.

So this is my final post about my trip to Sedona. I hope you have enjoyed sharing my vacation with me as much as I enjoyed living it. Sedona is a beautiful oasis and I would love to return and hike some of its more challenging trails. Renting a home was a convenient way to share space with several people and it enabled us to cook for ourselves. Some say Sedona is a life-list destination. With so much to do and so much to see, I couldn't agree more.

Day 6: Andante/Thunder Mountain Loop

Distance: 2.6 miles roundtrip
Elevation: 4,550 to 4,600 ft

Rock spires on the eastern end of Thunder Mountain

On our last day in Sedona, I did not get up and hike early in the morning. I lucked out later in the day, however, because once the thermometer reached a warm 75 degrees, my mother, whom we call Judy of the Tundra, complained of the heat. My father and I dropped her off at our vacation rental, gleefully put on shorts, and headed out to hike.

Andante trail head

I had looked in the book for a short, easy trail that wouldn't over tax him. While the Andante Trail was listed as easy, I would call it moderate simply because it drifted up and down through small gullies that were very rocky.

Dad after an hour in the wilds of Sedona

Andante and Thunder Mountain form a loop if taken together. They exist on the northern side of Sedona, just outside a housing track. The views of the red rocks dominate the scenery but many of the plants and birds also got our attention. There were quite a few Quail, and even a very vocal specimen high up in a shrub, his "head ornament" flapping as his head bobbed up and down. Scrub Jays were also plentiful.

You don't escape from urban life on the Thunder Mountain Trail, but with views like this, do you care?

There are a lot of social trails in the area that gave us pause once in a while, but with the view of Sedona's houses within sight, we didn't have to worry about getting lost in the wilderness.

The trail gets up close and personal to Thunder Mountain itself.

Day 5: Wupatki

Wupatki Ruins

Waupatki is WAY OUT from Flagstaff, a good 30 miles northeast and we almost did not drive there but I am so glad we did. It became my Mother’s personal favorite of all the ruins we visited. The drive itself, while long, is very scenic and is a loop so you don’t have to backtrack that much.

The route goes right by Sunset Crater National Monument, a volcanic cinder cone. My Father really wanted to see this site, but it was so chilly and windy that we only took a short 1/3-mile trail. I have been there before and the 1-mile trail through the lava beds in very interesting.

Sunset crater last erupted between 1040 and 1100, a final hiccup in a long 6-million year history of volcanic activity in the Flagstaff area. The ash and tremors drove the local 400-year old Sinaguan population from the area. They did not return for a 100 years.

Wupatki National Monument contains at least 5 sets of ruins. Finally reaching our limit on ruins, hard to believe I know, we only stopped at the main one. This pueblo sits out on a plain several thousand feet below the plateau that Sunset Crater sits on. In the distance you can see Arizona’s painted desert.

There are two circular structures, which farther north I would call a Kiva, that served as community centers. The pueblo itself is multi-story, which is always fascinating to me. How these peoples, who did not have the wheel, were able to build apartment complexes is quite amazing if you spend more than two seconds thinking about it.

Community Room

The red rocks, blue skies, endless vistas that surround this sight make it a worthy spot if you are in the Flagstaff area.

Looking east out into the Painted Desert

Day 5: Walnut Canyon Rim Trail

Distance: 1 miles round trip
Elevation: 7,000 ft
Elevation Gain: None

Ruins in an alcove at Walnut Canyon. You can see this set from the Visitor's Center.

Having exhausted all the ruins near Sedona, the family unit decided to head north towards Flagstaff, which is 3,000 feet higher, and quite cooler than its trendier cousin to the south. I have always like the Flagstaff area because of its Ponderosa pines, which smell like my happy childhood summers camping around the west.

We hit two National Monuments near Flagstaff, the first one being Walnut Canyon. I am loath to pass up a tourist attraction, particularly if a new refrigerator magnet can be earned. I hate to say it, but the magnet was the best part of the outing.

The dwelling trail viewed from the Visitor's Center.

Walnut Canyon National Monument contains a series of cliff dwellings that are simplistically constructed into the canyon walls. There are over 300 steps down into the canyon to view the more impressive ones. There was no way my Mother, who had gamely managed to get around thus far, was going to handle that. Instead, we took her out onto the nice viewing platform that angles downward 30 feet or so below the Visitor’s Center. You can see some dwellings from there as well as the canyon floor.

A typical portion of the Rim Trail. You can see a few of the dead trees in the distance. On part of the trail they were everywhere.

We did walk the Rim Trail, which also has nice views of the canyon. There were a lot of dead trees in this area that turned out to be caused by Pine Beetle kill. We saw the tracks and scat of Mule Deer and one Juniper Titmouse that I managed to get a very blurry picture of. There are ruins of a pit house on the Rim Trail that is mildly interesting.

Looking down to the canyon floor. Most of the trees had yet to leaf out.

I don’t think I would drive 300 miles to see Walnut Canyon, but if you are in the area it would make a pleasant excursion. In milder weather, we were quite nipped after Sedona, a leisurely picnic on site would also be pleasant.

Day 5: Fay Canyon Hike

Distance: 2.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 4,500 to 4,800 ft
Elevation Gain: 300 ft

Red rock walls of Fay Canyon

Once again I awoke early to get in a hike before my parents awoke. This day I chose Fay Canyon because my new guidebook said it was very pretty and was quite short. It took me 15 minutes to drive to the trailhead from our vacation rental, so I did not have a lot of extra time to spend.

Beginning of the trail. It was wide, flat, and sandy.

The canyon is indeed very scenic, and the early morning sun glinting off the upper rocks in pleasing sepia tones filled me with peace. Early spring before the sun reaches the canyon floor may not be the best time to hike this trail despite the visual effects, however. It was cold and I found myself hustling along to stay warm, my gloved hands curled into claws in my jacket pocket.

Morning sunlight on the canyon walls seen from half-way up to the arch.

Unlike the Andante and Thunder Mountain Trails, which I took my dad on the day after this, this trail really is easy. The main trail is very sandy with minimal rocks. I could have taken my mother on this trail without difficulty.

The arch viewed from the main trail

The red rock walls that progressively narrow as one heads deeper into the canyon dominate the senses. I remember chatting with a forest service ranger at one of the cliff dwellings and she said that the best hikes in Sedona are usually the easiest. Fay Canyon certainly fits that description.

For the more adventurous and sure-footed soul, Fay Canyon has an added attraction of a natural rock arch up the right hand side of the canyon. The trail to this arch, at 0.6 miles in, is marked with a cute arch cairn, so it is very difficult to miss. The trail to the arch is a scramble, however, that several times required both of my hands. It is highly eroded, very rocky, and bordered by hungry Prickly Pear Cactus. A slip here would result in more than a bruised behind!

Rock ledge near the arch, which is straight ahead.

The climb to the arch is well worth the effort, however. The views of the canyon are spectacular and at this hour in the morning, I had the entire place to myself. Two songbirds were cajoling amongst the rocks making quite a racket and the air was perfectly still. I would have loved to have lingered but my time was short.

Cross canyon walls silhouetted through the arch

The trip back down the trail was very steep and slippery. I had to crab my way down in several spots. Fortunately, there was no there to see such an ignomious decent.

Towards the end of the canyon, the trail narrows and a canopy of scrub oaks obscures the views. The trail itself does not go to the geographic end of the canyon. Instead it stops at a large rock fall near a very obvious rock thumb. While it looked completely possible to scramble over this fall and continue on, I had a breakfast date I could not miss and so turned around.

Trail narrows towards the end

It took me 1.5 hours to head up the canyon but only 0.5 hours to get back, so if you don’t scramble up to the arch, the hike can be very short indeed.

Rock thumb marks the end of the official trail

After the hike I swung by the Enchantment Resort for a cup of great coffee. I found this resort so appealing; I made reservations for us for lunch the following day. It is located in an adjacent canyon with wonder views of the red rocks.

Day 4: Slide Rock State Park Vista Trail

Distance: 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: Negligible

Standing on the bridge looking up at the park. The water shoot it at the far end of the photo.

We drove up Oak Creek Canyon for a ways after visiting Tuzigoot and Jerome. Oak Creek Canyon is not as spectacular as I thought it would be. It is mostly the creek and trees and not as many red rocks as I anticipated. Most of the trees were barren but I suspect in the heat of summer, those trees and that water would be a welcome respite.

Red rocks along the trail. It was late afternoon and I was shooting into a harsh sun.

One of the most popular areas in Sedona is Slide Rock State Park. Here you can slide through a narrow slot of cool water. In March, it was far too cold to even contemplate getting wet. In fact it was not until the day we left that I could even wear shorts.



Just past the bridge over Oak Creek at the southern end of the park is a parking area and a short trail through the scrub oaks. This trail follows the road back down to the bridge for a nice panorama of the park itself. While short, this little trail is very pleasant. It gave us a chance to view some of the few red rocks in the area.

Another view of the park near the bridge. You can see a few hearty souls playing in the water.