Friday, June 20, 2008

Colorado Pika


Ever been harassed a Pika (Ochotona princeps)? Don’t let their diminutive, guinea pig sized body fool you; these alpine dwelling rodents are feisty. Living in the nooks and crannies of rocks, they exhibit a shrill, piping cry whenever a hiker or dog nears their protective den. Related to rabbits and hares, they have short, rounded ears and no tail. I think they were put on earth to confound my dog’s, dare I say it, dog sized brain. With seemingly Machiavellian glee they shriek, peek, and hide giving my dog no end of grief. He knows something is up there in those sharp rocks. He can smell them, he can occasionally see them but he can’t get to them. The same thing goes for large predators. The Pika can taunt them too with relative impunity. Weasels and martins are another story. These flexible hunters can wiggle their way into the Pika’s rocky haven.


As the pictures in this post attest, Pikas eat greenery and will store up large mounds of verdant meadow grasses for the long winter. Since they shed their fur in both spring and fall, the Pika always looks a little scruffy. Still, with all those whiskers and rodent-ish gnawing on blades of grass who can resist these little terrors of the tundra?

Monday, June 16, 2008

Cascade Falls (Indian Peaks Wilderness)

Distance 9.4 miles round trip
Elevation: 8,345 to 9,580 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,320 ft
Critters: Moose
Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary

Cascade Falls in western Indian Peaks Wilderness is a great place to view raging water and Glacier Lillys
Glacier Lilies and the raging waters of Cascade Falls
Cascade Falls is a long hike to several of the most beautiful falls I have seen in Colorado. The photos in this post do little to capture their sheer intensity and drama as they roared and tumbled in chaotic abandon. For the waterfall junkie out there, this is a must do destination.

There are two sets of Cascade Falls on the west side of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. We went to the southern set. The northern set is within the boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park and can be reached by a 6 to 7 mile round trip journey.

Monarch Lake Colorado is the starting point for the Cascade Falls Trail
Monarch Lake
The trail to Cascade Falls begins at the Monarch Lake trailhead, which is south of Lake Granby. Note that some guides will tell you to turn on Forest Service Road 125. This road is actually labeled Arapahoe Bay Road. It is not until you turn in and travel 50 yards or so that the road is labeled 125.

Monarch Lake is in itself a pleasant destination. There were many fishermen lining the dam and there is a 3.9-mile hike around the lake itself that looks worth doing. The Cascade Falls trail follows the shoreline for 0.8 miles so you’ll get some lakeside views. It then officially enters the Indian Peaks Wilderness at 1.25 miles.

Rocks along the Trail
There was so much variety and water on this trail to tantalize the senses that even though it was in the trees for much of the way, we were perfectly entertained. Going at the height of spring run off did not hurt. Buchanan and Cascade creeks were roaring and we knew the falls would be spectacular because of it.

The trail description we had found for this trail mentioned several water crossings and given the state of the rivers we were trepidatious that we would not be able to get across. Fortunately, all of the bridges over the rivers were quite stout. Two are cement and wood bridges and two are double wide split log bridges with substantial rock islands in the middle. The crossings were a piece of cake.

Where all those falls come from
There was a bit of mud on the trail due to the recent snowmelt but this reveled the tracks of a mother moose and the smaller tracks of her calf. We talked to a Ranger briefly and they mentioned that Moose traverse the entire area and do not confine themselves to the marshy areas around the lakes and meadows of the region. We did not see a Moose on the trail itself, but did see several on our way home.

There were lots of milestones along the way to help us gauge our mileage. I have already mentioned the wilderness boundary above. The first bridge is at 2.2 miles, the intersection with the Buchanan Trail is 3.2 miles, and the second bridge is at 3.3 miles. Just past this bridge is a small-unnamed fall that shoots through a narrow canyon. From here the trail rises sharply and gradually ascends into a broad valley bordered on the left by Thunderbolt Peak (11,938) and a long ridgeline. The main, highly overused section of Indian Peaks lies on the other side of that ridgeline, which caused us to snicker to ourselves. Here we were on a trail with hardly any people while just “over there” were mobs of Front Rangers trampling the wildflowers.

Looking east at Thunderbolt Peak and ridge
There are three falls that make up Cascade Falls. Each one is farther and higher up than the last. If you can’t possibly go any further, the first fall is a worthwhile destination in itself.

There is a cascade just below the first fall that twists sharply to the left on a broad shelf that was covered in a colony of Glacier Lilies (Erythronium grandiflorium). Glacier Lilies arrive soon after the snow melts along the banks of streams or in sub-alpine meadows.

Looking down a drainage
The first fall (4.2 miles, 9,340 ft) is tall and shoots outward from a wall of rock into a large pool. You can walk right up to this fall and gaze at it front the front and the side. I realized after playing with my photos from this trip that taking pictures of waterfalls is not easy. The brilliant whiteness of the water, contrasted with the dark rock surrounding them threw off the exposure.

First falls
Water torrent
Playing with shutter speed
The second fall (4.4 miles, 9.440 ft) is more of a cascade, reminiscent of the Calypso Cascades in the Wild Basin region of Rocky Mountain National Park. This year, with so much water, the cascades were practically hidden from view by the torrent of white foam. There is a large flat rock in front of the falls eminently suitable for a picnic lunch.

Second falls
The third falls (4.7 miles, 9,580 ft) is up a steep pitch and across the second and final hune-log bridge. Look back at this point and you will see that you are at the very top of the second falls and can see the lip where the water flows over the edge. Beyond the bridge, the trail to the third falls is very rocky. There were several snow banks that we slogged through and the trail was disguised as a creek flowing with bone chilling snowmelt. As with most falls, we heard the roar before be saw the water. Cutting off trail to another, frat party sized, chunk of rock revealed the third falls. This one looks like a combination of the first two. A sharp drop directs the flow of the upper portions and then turns sharply towards the viewpoint and spreads out somewhat into a wider area.

Third falls
Where to lunch may be the hardest decision you’ll make on this trail. There are so many places to lounge, and each fall is so distinctive that is hard to choose. The trip back was long and monotonous, like all long hikes, and we were heartily glad to reach the car. If you love waterfalls, this trail will not disappoint and may just become you private piece of heaven.

Lake Granby

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes

Distance: 3.2 miles round trip to Silver Dollar Lake, 4.4 miles round trip to Murray Lake
Elevation: 11,600 ft to 12,400 ft
Elevation Gain: 800 ft
Dogs: Off leash
Tags: #mountainlake, #hiking, #coloradooutdoors, #gearguide
Nearby hikes: Squaretop Lakes, Squaretop Mountain, Shelf Lake, Mt. Beirstadt



Silver Dollar Lake is close to Denver but beware of afternoon thunderstorms
Silver Dollar Lake looking east
At least once a year we try to pop up to Silver Dollar Lake off of Guanella Pass. You won’t burn off last night’s overindulgence on this hike, but will get a chance to enjoy three alpine lakes nestled within the jagged rocks of a couple of Colorado’s lesser known peaks: Square Top Mountain, Argentine Peak, and Mt. Wilcox. We have hiked this trail in late May, July, and September. On the early season outing, there were still large drifts of snow that impeded our progress with occasional waist deep post holing. I would recommend waiting until late July or August to try this trail. While I have yet to time it right, this trail is supposed to be excellent for wildflowers at that time of the year. In autumn the grasses are golden brown, which creates both texture and contrast with the still green shrubbery.

Naylor Lake from higher up the trail
There are three lakes on this trail. The first and largest is Naylor Lake. It is privately owned, and hikers are requested and advised to stay on the trail, which skirts the property. The trail quickly rises above this lake providing the hiker with ample views.

Silver Dollar Lake is the second lake and the final destination for most hikers. It is a small lake at the base of Square Top Mountain. On the plateau to the north is Murray Lake, the third and final lake. There is an obvious trail heading past Silver Dollar Lake up to Murray Lake. Since the trail to Silver Dollar Lake is so short, continuing to Murray Lake is a must. The trail is steep and rocky but very short (0.6 miles). There are large boulders near the lake that make great backrests. Argentine Peak is visible to the northwest.

Silver Dollar Lake looking southwest
Murray Lake
Be advised that Guanella Pass is prone to wicked afternoon thunderstorms.  I have been chased down the trail by lightening at least once if not twice at Murray Lake and another time at Square Top Lakes just on the other side of the ridge. The first time this happened we were lounging at Murray Lake against one of the afore-mentioned boulders. The sky above us was blue and there was not a cloud in the sky. We were startled out of our peaceful revelry by a clap of thunder so deep and nearby that it made our kidneys vibrate. We turned around to see a massive storm that was coming UP the valley from the east. It is a long way down to tree line from Murray Lake and lightening looks a lot thicker when viewed close up. Learn from our mistakes and always get a very early start when hiking off Guanella Pass, scan the sky in all directions, and don’t wait until you think the clouds are suitably gray before leaving. I can guarantee you your timing will be off.

The road to Silver Dollar Lake begins near the Guanella Pass campground, nine miles up from Georgetown. The road itself can be very rough. You can park one mile below the trailhead, but the route up would be a mundane jeep road through the trees.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Colorado Fox Squirrel: Friend or Foe?



Other critters: American Red Squirrel, Chipmunk, Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel

The Colorado Fox Squirrel (Sciurus niger)
Who can resist a pretty face? Certainly the Fox Squirrel (Sciurus niger) is irresistible. Its eyes are large and appealing, its fur is a ruddy Rufus brown, and its acrobatics are amusing to behold. Does the Fox Squirrel have a dark side though? The state of my Honey Locust tree might seem to suggest so.

Fox Squirrels are one of three species of squirrel in Colorado and the largest in North America. They are arboreal (live in trees) and diurnal (come out several times a day). Their diet consists primarily of seeds, which makes them the bane of backyard bird feeders. In a pinch they will eat insects, bird eggs, flowers, and buds, and when things get really bad, they will eat the bark off of trees. Enter my Honey Locust. Over the last two winters, a squirrel has been systematically eating the bark off of my Honey Locust tree. It is hard to say the level of damage it has done, but it certainly looks atrocious. I was advised to put hot pepper spray on the bark but that only resulted in the little cretin running around with a sombrero on.

I confess when I see my Honey Locust tree I get grumpy. It is certainly the potential financial loss that irks me so. Trees are expensive, and replacing twelve years worth of growth, shade, and privacy is very expensive indeed! At a visceral level, my resident squirrel seems to have taken on the persona of a gangbanger rampaging through the neighborhood, wantonly destroying property. I am ready to cart him off to squirrel juvie.

Ok, so we know you are a boy.

But then I see how the squirrel taunts both my cat and my dog. Its piercing screech and flapping tail fill me with glee, particularly knowing the cat is getting its comeuppance. My cat has a tendency to hunt for socks and when he finds one, he drags it around the house howling like a banshee. This behavior is particularly annoying at 3am. Anything that annoys the cat is fine with me.

I like squirrels because they have ‘tude! Before moving to this house, I lived in an apartment and lived on the top floor of a 3-story building. Somehow the squirrels managed to climb up the stucco, sit by the kitchen window, and annoy my cat. That was better than Survivor reruns.

I woke up recently one morning, however, thinking about the plague and realized that squirrels are RODENTS and VECTORS of disease. Just this month, 15 rodents were found dead in Denver, Arapahoe, and Jefferson Counties. We are talking the Black Death here, a disease that wiped out half of Europe. My favorite kitty tormentor could be carrying the means of ending civilization, as we know it. Can any pretty face survive that?

So what am I to do? I feel like a super delegate. Too bad the squirrel can’t buy my vote. I guess for now I’ll have to remain conflicted. Isn’t it amazing how much we are willing to overlook for a pretty face and fancy theatrics. It is the tonic of a jaded age.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Plymouth Mountain Trail

Distance: 6.9 miles RT
Elevation: 5,995-7,495 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,400 ft not including some recaptured elevation loss














Plymouth Mountain is part of the Deer Creek Canyon Open Space in southeastern Jefferson County and is a great shoulder season hike that is close to suburbia and hence perfect for a day when time is limited.

This was our first visit to the park. We tend to avoid Jefferson County Open Space because of their strict leash laws but today we thought we would try and see if we could control the dogs sufficiently to make it worthwhile. Not only did the dogs behave, but also the trail was so lush, so varied, and so filled with bucolic vistas that we may just have to try the leash thing again. One of our dogs, Abby, is a beefy gal who could pull the leg off a seated buffalo with sufficient provocation. Holding her on a leash is like playing Russian roulette with a shoulder dislocation.


View of an unnamed hill from the Meadowlark Trail. The Golden Eagle Trail ascends it

Dear Creek Canyon contains 12.8 miles of trails some with substantial elevation gain. Three of the trails are hiker only. The rest are multi-use. We started out on the Meadowlark Trail, which is 1.6 miles long and is one of the three hiker-only trails. The trail winds through scrub oak and brush with plenty of views of Lockheed Martin’s facility and the red rock fins that surround it. This trails is very narrow and it was difficult to pass the many runners and hikers we came across. The ground is soft, however, with minimal rocks, which makes it much better for runners. The Meadowlark Trail joins the Plymouth Creek Trail at a small bridge near the creek. There was sufficient water running to give the dogs a cooling drink, but the minimal nature of the flow heralded a dryer outing for those going later in the summer.


The junction of the Meadowlark and Plymouth Creek Trails

The Plymouth Creek Trail is very rocky with both loose rock and large slabs of jagged rock sticking out of the dirt. Right after the trail junction it ascends sharply upwards. At one point there are even steps of railroad ties to one side. This trail is filled with mountain bikers busting their quads to try and get up and over all the rocks. It is brutal, and many had to dismount and walk their way up. A few mountain biking Web sites call this section the “Wall of Shame”. About half a mile up, the trail does become less cumbersome, but it still ascends without a break. This part of the trip was in the pine forest that covers Plymouth Mountain itself. Even though we got an 8:30 am start, the shade was welcome. Plymouth Mountain trail is a circle, and intersects its creek side cousin in two places. If you take the first intersection, you’ll end up skirting the mountain to the left. This portion of the circle is 1.7 miles long while the other section is only 0.9 miles. The 1.7 mile portion has stunning views of the McMansions that stud Deer Creek Canyon as well as views of the Hogback Ridge, which shields the wealthy from the mere mortals who live in rest of Littleton. This section is a gradual climb on a softer trail. There are at least three switchbacks to tell you that you are indeed getting farther up the mountain.


Looking north from one of the overlooks on the Scenic View Trail

The trail to the top is creatively called the Scenic View Trail. There was no sign at the junction from this side of the circle but there was one from the other. There are several interesting rock formations and overlooks along this short 0.4 mile trail but the final destination is even more impressive. There are several rock formations to climb and a near 360-degree view of the surrounding areas. It was a pleasant place to linger.

Once back out on the Plymouth Mountain Trail, we took the shorter 0.9 mile route back down. This segment of the trail is much steeper and almost as rocky as the Plymouth Creek Trail. We were glad we chose to circumnavigate the mountain from left to right.

Finally, we returned to the bridge and decided to follow the Plymouth Creek Trail back to the car instead of retracing our steps along the Meadowlark Trail. With the exception of some interesting rocks farther down, this was not a good choice. The trail descends steeply to the point where we felt like we were stumbling and sliding downhill. The dogs were pulling us as well, which did not increase the ease of our decent.



Rocks and McMansions on the Plymouth Creek Trail

All in all, Deer Creek Canyon Open Space is a pleasant excursion. There are at least two more loops, each with its own scenic view, to entice us to return. The parking lot is large and there are well appointed restrooms. We plan to lead a Sierra Club hike there in the fall.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison: North Rim

Distance: 5 miles
Overlooks: 6



The North Rim of the Black Canyon is far more scenic than the South Rim. The canyon seems wider, the views of the river are more expansive, and there are far less people. There is no way from the South Rim to North Rim without a long drive, however so be emotionally prepared for a little road butt. To get to the North Rim, you can go through Hotchkiss in the north or head out Hwy 50 to the Blue Mesa Reservoir and then take Hwy 92 north. This is the better option. On the map Hwy 92 looks like a half-twisted slinky, and it is very curvy, but those curves wind through continuous stands of aspen and valleys with ballad inspiring views of purple mountains majesty. I have already put this route on my fall driving list. It should be phenomenal. The road to the park itself starts just south of Crawford and presents wide-angle views of the West Elk Mountains and Needle Rock. It traverses attractive farmland, well irrigated into an emerald green.


There are only 6 lookouts on the North Rim but we found ourselves lingering at them because their views were so expansive. On the South Rim we tended to bolt from overlook to overlook. There is a campground as well, which looked very pleasant. Most of the sites were beneath twisted Junipers, which created a sense of coziness as well as providing needed shade on a blazingly hot summer day.

The north side of the canyon stays colder and wetter compared to the south and hence is more eroded. This has resulted in islands of rock upon which conifers, ground cover, and lichens cling with dogged persistence.

The one thing that I found most striking about the Black Canyon is the continuous roar of the river, which reverberates against the rock and tingles the eardrums with an elemental agelessness. I leaned against the warm rock along the chasm view trail and closed my eyes. Stone holds the memories of ages past, and if you still your mind for just a moment you can hear it whisper its’ earthly secrets. It will tell you about the constancy of process and the inevitability of change. Erosion, the primary process that has shaped the canyon, is still occurring with unceasing relentlessness. The soft gravel of the Rim Drive, the rocks falling into the canyon, and much of the topography of the Western Slope are all witness to the power of cumulative change.

Just outside of the park is BLM land, which consists of a road trailing off into the sagebrush. It is obviously a much better area to run the dogs. We wanted to explore the Gunnison Conservation Area, and so did not stop there.

Half the fun of living in Colorado is exploring its’ varied geology. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison and the routes to and from it, are a great place to see erosion, sedimentation, and volcanism. All this education in the guise of stunning views just can’t be beat.

Monday, May 26, 2008

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: South Rim

Drive Length: 7 miles
Number of Overlooks: 12


Close up of the Indian-like petroglyph on the Painted Wall

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is one of those must sees in Colorado. The visit will not burn many calories but the views will remind you of just how insignificant the human life span is. The fast flowing Gunnison River has, over the span of 2 million years, gouged out a watercourse that is, at its’ deepest, 2,772 feet deep. Standing at the edge of the chasm is a life affirming experience. Life affirming that is if you grip the handrail until your knuckles turn white. Just looking down made me weak in the knees. Glancing across to the other side resulted in a tingling behind the sternum that surely heralded a heart attack.

The South Rim is different from the North, which I shall describe in a separate post. If you only have one day to spend, go for the North Rim. The views are far more spectacular and the drive is amazing in itself. The river views from the south rim are limited and the number of stops far more numerous. There are several lookouts that require a 700-yard walk, which is a blessing after sitting in the car for so long.

For those of you who have not visited the area since it became a National Nark, you will notice a lot of changes. There is a new visitor’s center, plentiful bathrooms, and heavy wood barriers on all but one of the lookouts. While you may wish to argue that the area should have remained a National Monument, you cannot argue with the jaw dropping wonderment you receive when coming face to face with the unyielding power of water and time. If only we could take such simple wisdom into our personal lives. It really only takes persistence to erode the most formidable obstacle. Of course, having a few million years doesn’t hurt either.

On this trip, the Gunnison River was flowing at over 7,000 cubic feet per minute. Looking down into the gorge with a telephoto lens I could see the chaotic confluence of rock, wood, and foam. The flow rate is magnified by the angle of decent, which is 96 feet per mile. As dramatic as this rate sounds, the flow through the canyon is significantly reduced from its heyday before the upstream damns regulated its flow.


Close up of the river bottom

Allow yourself 3-4 hours to get into the park from Hwy 347 and to see the South Rim, longer if, like I, you forget your camera battery and have to drive all the way back to Montrose to get it!
There is no easy way to get from the south rim to the north rim, so plan on another day to see and explore that side. There are short 1-2 mile hiking trails in the park, but since we had dragged our dogs along, we limited our activities to the overlooks themselves. I talked to a fellow tourist from Longmont Colorado who said that the view from the end of the Warner Point trail was worth the effort.

It is hard to say what is the best time of year to visit the park. Summer can be ghastly hot, winter can be windy and cold, and spring can be unpredictable. This trip was made over Memorial Day weekend, and we were cold the first day and warm the next. That’s Colorado weather for you. On a side note, we stayed in Montrose, which has some decent hotels, but very little in the way of decent food. Bring a cooler full of deli selections, and you will be happier by far.

Dillon Pinnacles

Trail Length: 4 miles RT
Elevation: 7,400 to 7,847 ft
Elevation gain: 447 ft


The Dillon Pinnacles are one of those geologic wonders of Colorado. They are located along Blue Mesa Reservoir between Montrose and Gunnison. For minimal effort, you can get up close to the formations.

Coming from Montrose, the trailhead is located just past the bridge that crosses over the reservoir. The trail follows along the water, or what used to be water, for 0.75 miles before heading up a gully filled with juniper, sage, rocks, and a small creek. After 0.25 miles it reaches an intersection. Take the left fork and continue to ascend upwards to a small hillock that looks down the length of the formation. A worn wooden bench is available if the cumulative distance to this point is overly fatiguing! You can see the trail in the distance along the formation. Do continue. The views are very pleasant, and the destination, another bench on a wind-blown mesa, provides 50-yard line views of the formation and alternatively, views of the San Juan Mountains to the south. Elk and deer are very prevalent along the trail from October through April. Their scat practically covered the trail and seemed more abundant than the rocks themselves.


Sage and pine on the Dillion Pinnacles trail

The Dillon Pinnacles are made of eroded West Elk Breccia, a composite rock spewed from the volcanic West Elk Mountains 30 million years ago.

From a distance, the West Elks, with their central Needle Rock, look like the remains of a climate changing explosive event but are in fact the remains of an entire field of Stratovolcanoes. Stratovolcanoes are versatile eruptors and are easily recognized by their dramatic cone shape. At one time or another, the volcanoes in the West Elks probably erupted with explosive force like Mt. Rainer, or sent plumes of ash into the stratosphere. The West Elk Breccia is composed of rock and ash that fell from at least one explosive eruption that resulted in over 600 ft of ash and rock accumulation. You can see the West Elks from the south rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison or even more dramatically from Hwy 92 heading toward the north rim of the park.


West Elk Mountains

It is possible to get close to Needle Rock, which is located in the town of Crawford. Up close, it looses some of its majesty. It is far more impressive when viewed as part of a circle of volcanic remnants.

I have seen the Dillon Pinnacles many times from the overlook on Hwy 50 but this was my first opportunity to see them up close. As with most things in Colorado, they gain perspective and elegance the farther you get from the car. The Dillon Pinnacles are no different. It is worth the short hike to see these remarkable formations up close. A final note of trivia, Blue Mesa Reservoir is the largest body of water in Colorado. I have seen it covered in snow, dappled with sunlit elegance, and radiantly blue. It seems to have as many expressions as Colorado herself.


Blue Mesa Reservoir (trailhead parking area)


Saturday, May 17, 2008

Crosier Mountain Hike

Distance: 7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 7,044 ft - 9,204 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,280 ft
Date Hiked: 11 May, 2008
Dogs: Off leash (Forest Service)

The view of the Continental Divide from the summit of Crosier Mountain
Crosier Mountain is a lesser-known, lower mountain to the northeast of Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park that is perfect for a shoulder season outing. It has significant elevation gain, glorious views of Longs Peak, Mt. Meeker, Estes Park, and the Mummy Range. There are at least three different trails that approach the mountain, each offering different features. I have done two of the three and of those two, I prefer the one that will be described in this post. It just has more expansive views.

The lower part of the trail travels through an open Ponderosa Pine forest
You can get to any of the trailheads via Loveland and Hwy 34 or via Estes Park and Devil’s Gulch Road. Since I had never driven Hwy 34, we decided to take that route. The canyon walls east of Drake are very pretty and worth the drive. From Hwy 34, you can access one of the first trailheads right after turning onto Devil’s Gulch road. A colleague of mine usually takes this route and indicated it is longer, at least 10 miles, and wanders through many open meadows. Around 6 miles from the turn off is another trailhead that is well marked. A large dirt parking lot can hold many cars. There is a trail map and gate to the left of parking lot. The other trailhead is in the town of Glen Haven itself. The trail starts on the left just beyond the stables when heading towards Estes Park. The Glen Haven trail goes through a very large meadow and comes back around the mountain. The other trailhead approaches the mountain from the south and intersects the Glen Haven trail at the 2-mile interval, so the trails only differ for the first half of the route.

(On the left: An example of the rocky trail). The early part of the second trail ascends quickly up a slope with nice views of the rocky cliffs to the north of Hwy 34. After a half mile or so, there is a nice view down the canyon itself and out onto the plains. The trail is covered in loose quartz rock that has eroded out of the hillside. Ankle high boots are advised for anyone with weak ankles.

At 1.8 miles, there is large aspen grove with very large old growth trees. It would be very pretty in the fall. The trail in this area is very sunken and in places the ground was above the level of my knees. This trench was also narrow, which made walking difficult. It is just past this area that the trail intersects with the Glen Haven route. The spot is well marked with a trail sign and a very large log suitable for resting.

(On the right: An example of an open meadow) From this point the trail begins a steady accent through stunted Ponderosa pine. I am a true Coloradoan and I don’t like staying in trees for very long without vistas, so I found an iPod with music to be helpful on this stretch.

The final pitch to the summit is also well marked. It is here that the third trail intersects. Parts of the summit pitch are very steep and the trail is very eroded in places. The trees thin as you ascend though, offering nice views of the foothills to the east. There are also several interesting rock formations. The summit is very broad allowing for significant exploration. There is a nice cut in the rock that allows for direct views of Estes Park without climbing the small rock pile on the right.

Crosier Mountain is not my favorite hike simply because it is a bit too monotonous for me but during the spring it is a nice alternative to the trails around Boulder. We can take the dogs and let them run their paws off. The trail is multi-use and you will occasionally run into horses and mountain bikers but in our half-day outing, we only ran into 3 other groups.

The trail opens up nicely on the summit approach

Monday, May 5, 2008

Saints John and Wild Irishman Mine Snowshoe

Distance 5.6 miles RT
Elevation: 10,302 ft (Montezuma) to 10, 763 ft (Saints John) to 11, 702 ft (Wild Irishman Mine), to 12,000ft (Ridge above the mine)
Elevation Gain: 1698 ft
Critters: Oliver the cat


Saints John, out of Montezuma, is one of our favorite snowshoes. When the weather is clear, the views are spectacular and the elevation gain makes all those mid-week workouts worthwhile. This year was without a doubt our best experience. There was not a cloud in the sky, we barely saw two other people on the route, and the snow was Colorado powder perfect.

First, I’ll make a quick disclaimer about the distances and elevation gain described in this post. It seems like every book, blog, or reference quotes a different distance and elevation for this trail. To make matters worse there is a sign at the town of Saints John itself that says 11,000 ft, which probably refers to the mine itself higher up the ridge to the right.


The route to the Wild Irishman Mine begins on a forest road that is wide and covered in trees. It switch backs a couple of time before suddenly breaking out into the town of Saints John after only 1.3 miles. By the way, Saints John is not a typo. The town is named for both St. John the Evangelist and St. John the Baptist, which is most unfortunate because I have yet to meet anyone who can pronounce it very well. For history trivia buffs, you be pleased to note that Saints John was the site of the first silver strike in Colorado.

Beyond the town, the trail winds through the trees before reaching a wide valley. There are several avalanche chutes along the steep sides. A recent avalanche on our right had left car-sized chunks of snow sitting surreally next to pine trees. It is worth turning around periodically as one ascends this area for stellar views of Grays and Torreys. At the top, the route turns to the left and becomes significantly steeper. There is one pitch that is very steep. Snowmobiles are allowed on this trail and I have seen them zoom off this pitch, totally blind to anyone ascending from below. It is wise to use caution here and ascend as quickly as possible.

Another sharp turn to the left and a short jaunt through the trees lead to another open meadow. At the far end, flush against Glacier Mountain sits the ruins of the Wild Irishman Mine, complete with private outhouse.

To the right of the ruins is another sharp ridge that ascends another 300 ft or so (we did not have a GPS). The journey to the top of this ridge is well worth the trip. From its summit, a huge bowl opens up in the distance. At the far end is the most dramatic mountain pass I have ever seen. The expanse was only marred by a few snowmobile tracks. On this particular day the weather was practically short-sleeved warm and the 360-degree views of mountain peaks seemed to go on and on forever. These include 12,585 ft Bear Mountain to the northwest across the valley, 12,053 ft Tiptop Peak on the down valley view, followed by 12, 792 ft Cooper Mountain and 14ers Grays and Torreys. We did not want to descend, and it was only fear of the mind numbing skier traffic on I-70 that made us leave this little piece of Colorado heaven.

On the return trip we were met with Saints John most friendly resident, Oliver the cat. He came out to sit with us while we admired the view, and although he had to traverse a fifty-yard swath of snow to find us, he quickly jumped from pack to leg to pack again with casual feline dexterity. By this point we were not nearly as limber as we dragged ourselves to our feet again in order to slug through the last 1.3 miles back to the car.

You might just experience your own religious conversion on the Saints John trail but it won’t be to Christianity. Instead you may find yourself worshiping glorious sunshine, clear mountain air, breathtaking views, and the realization that such wonders of nature are everywhere you turn in this, our Colorado.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Banana Slug: King of the Gastropods

I thought I would take a moment to poke fun at wildlife bloggers who love to wax poetic about mammals to the detriment of the lesser-respected but no less interesting gastropods!

Gastropods are truly amazing. They live on land and under the sea. They are second only to insects in their numbers and diversity. They usually have a well-defined head and two to four sensory tentacles. They are beautiful, mysterious, and leave slime trails, at least on land. What’s not to love!

The Banana Slug is one of my favorite gastropods. It is the second largest slug in the world. It can reach up to 10 inches long and lives in the moist forest of the Santa Cruz Mountains and other Pacific coast coniferous forests. They are one of nature’s composters, gleefully nibbling on dead plants and animal droppings. If they weren’t so yellow, they might have been called the “green machine” for their zero waste habits. Ha, take that Al Gore!

Whenever I visit Santa Cruz I make a pilgrimage to Felton State Park where I took my first picture in the 9th grade. This park is a dank, moss-encrusted tangle of redwoods and coniferous trees. The perfect place to hunt the slug! I bagged this particular specimen in April 2007. He/she, because banana slugs are…ooooh la la hermaphrodites, was about six inches long. I won’t regale you the hours I spent behind a slug blind waiting for this prey to appear before I was able to swoop down and make this shot.

Finally, my hats go off to UC Santa Cruz whose students chose the Banana Slug as their mascot. Just another rodent was much too commonplace for this unique school!

North Rock Creek Snowshoe

Distance: 4 miles round trip Elevation: 9,180 ft to 9,780 ft Elevation Gain: 600 ft Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary North...