Heart Lake

Distance: 10 miles round trip

Elevation: 9,224 ft - 11,340 ft (at Heart lake), 11,418 ft (up the trail a bit)
Elevation Gain: 2,116 ft (net), 2,370 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On leash, James Peak Wilderness
Date Hiked: 6 August, 2014

Heart Lake in the James Peak Wilderness

The trail to Heart Lake in the James Peak Wilderness near Rollinsville is a long slog through bogs and rocks to a surprisingly alluring series of lakes nestled up against the Continental Divide. This area gets above average rainfall, which means the wildflowers will stun you like a taser and drive all the air from your lungs.

The main parking area was full, even mid-week

Starting out in Aspen and some minimal sunshine

The trail starts out at the Moffat Tunnel. Even though we hiked mid week, the ample parking lot was nearly full, so this area gets a lot of use.  The first mile of the route follows the stream, crossing several inlets on wooden planks or logs. Willows and sunshine dominate this short segment.

The trail gets rockier and dark the further up you go.

The trail junctions are well marked.

At 1.2 miles is the junction with the Forest Lakes Trail. After this point, the trail begins to climb steadily while the forest becomes a damp enveloping blanket. Immune to the increasing humidity, the rocks along the trail multiply until they form an obstacle course that drove one hiking group ahead of us screaming back to their cars. Tree roots, slick with moisture, creep mischievously across the trail in an effort to capture an ankle or two.

Where the Heart Lake Trail splits off from the Crater Lakes Trail

The waterfall at 4 miles. 

At 1.54 miles the trail switchbacks sharply upward and at 2 miles is the turn off to Crater Lakes. While the trail to Heart Lake continues up the basin, you have to look twice to see it. The vegetation was so over grown that I missed it altogether while looking for head-hunters in the shrubbery.

Finally breaking out of the trees

Rogers Pass Lake

From this point on, the trail just continues steadily through the trees until it comes to a small waterfall  (at 4 miles) near treeline. I was so excited to see the sun again that I hurriedly stepped off a rock onto what I thought was solid ground only to have my foot sink above my boot in an oozing mass of pine needles and mud.

Heart Lake is on the shelf ahead

Looking down on Rogers Pass Lake

The trees thin gradually as you approach Rogers Pass Lake (at 4.65 miles), the largest lake below Heart Lake. This is a lovely spot that had drawn several anglers who were fly fishing on the far side. In the midst of a meadow, this lake does not have many places to sit except for a few rocks scattered along the shore.

The last climb to Heart Lake

Heart Lake itself is another steep climb up a glacial moraine to a broad shelf well above treeline. The lake was too large to capture well in one frame, and was surrounded by the usual tundra plants. The trail to Rogers Pass, visible from below, traveled right by the lake and we were able to get a better perspective an additional hundred feet or so further up near a small sign posting the wilderness regulations. The are is popular with backpackers and their tents could be seen nestled in the trees down by Rogers Pass Lake.

Heart Lake is so large I couldn't get it all in one frame. 

We got a slightly more expansive view walking up the trail towards Rogers Pass. The only way to see the entire lake would be to climb up even further. 

The wildflowers were located halfway between Rogers Pass Lake and Heart Lake in a large swath of Willows near the moraine. I lost count of the number of species present and just pranced joyfully from one area to the next taking pictures in a fevered staccato.

Just one swath of the many wildflower near the lake

I am glad I went to Heart Lake simply because I had never been there before but I am not sure it is a place I will revisit often. There are other trails that are more open and less humid. One thing you should know, is that the Moffat Tunnel uses spaceship-sized fans to suck the carbon monoxide out of the six-mile tunnel after a train has passed. If the noise does not annoy you, the brown cloud will. Fortunately, this is only an issue near the trailhead, but it can be startling if you happen to be near when it starts up.

Dumont Lake and the Continental Divide Trail

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,620 ft - 9,940 ft
Elevation Gain: 505 ft (cumulative)
Bathroom at trailhead: Yes, within the Dumont Lake Campground
Dogs: Off leash
Date Hiked: 5 July 2014
Critters: Mosquitoes by the swarm

Dumont Lake, on Rabbit Ears Pass will make your eyes pop!

In spring, the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) near Dumont Lake is a study in the primary colors of green and blue. The wide open meadows surrounding the lake are off-to-see-the-wizard green while the sky above is that deep Colorado blue that is the envy of much of the world. Together they are almost too dazzling to behold, a summer tableau that will make you forget that winter is only six months away.

Satellite image of the area showing the lake, picnic grounds, campgrounds, and trail (starts near the tent icon)

Small parking area at the nondescript trailhead

Heading out on the double track trail that parallels the lake

Dumont Lake is located 22 miles southeast of Steamboat Springs on Highway 40 in the wide open expanse of Rabbit Ears Pass. Turn north on Forest Service Road 315 and follow the signs to the Dumont Lake Campground, about a mile off the highway. Note the lake itself is in the picnic grounds, but the trail starts in the back loop of the campground. There is a small trail sign and parking for two cars parallel to the road.

Green and blue are the dominate colors of Dumont Lake.

Lupine

From this nondescript beginning, follow the double track trail that parallels the lake. You can't get to the shore, unless you want to slog through knee-deep marsh for 50 yards or so, but the views of the lake and the sky are worth staying back a little.

Heading up into the trees

Out of the trees and entering another large meadow

It takes a mile to traverse the shoreline to where the aptly named Muddy Creek flows into it from another large bog. Don't be surprised when the trail crosses the creek and heads sharply uphill into the trees, it will soon head north again.

The trail skirts the edge of this endless meadow that could hold a couple of herds of elk!

Glacier Lillies, a moisture loving flower covered the meadow so we knew the snow had just melted.

From this point on the trail wanders in and out of meadows and stands of pine that even in early July were filled with snow drifts, dead fall, knee-deep puddles, and obligatory mosquitoes. It wasn't until 2.5 miles in that we finally gave up. I don't know how all the mountain bikers were managing given that we were detouring every 30 yards and climbing over downed trees. Later in the year, when the Forest Service has cleaned up the trail, you can continue northwards on the CDT towards Steamboat Springs or turn right off onto the Forest Service Road 315 for a loop hike. Most of the bikers were attempting this route. They seemed to be happier the more heavily coated in mud they were.

An easily passable section where the trees across the trail had been cut and the snow had melted. Deeper in the forest that was not the case.

Our turn around point. That is the trail ahead, both underwater and blocked by a snow bank with a Fir tree on top of it.

In winter, Rabbit Ears Pass is a snowmobilers paradise but in summer it is a haven for campers and the occasional Moose. The CDT here is easy and suitable for novice hikers. Just be prepared to have company. With this kind of scenery next to a campground, you won't be alone! If you want to spend time at the lake, visit the picnic grounds. Be advised there is a day use fee there.