Don’t let Boulder’s Seven’s dark black interior and uncomfortable straight back booths seats deter you from trying this wonderful restaurant. I would classify it as Asian/South American fusion. I always worry about fusion restaurants whose chefs assume that dumping two ingredients from two different parts of the world will equate to something wonderful. Frequently, the flavors don’t blend and you are left with a schizophrenic palate screaming for lithium. Seven, on the other hand, was like an hour at the Boulder Creek Festival. Its cultures weave in an out of each other in a kaleidoscope.
With us for this event was a bonafide vegetarian, and Seven boasts several tasty looking vegetarian dishes. She started with the organic green salad and a tofu dish with large chunks of tofu wallowing with veggies in a curry sauce. I daringly took a bite of tofu and pronounced it edible even for the likes of a carnivore like me.
I, on the other hand, started with the Mahi Mahi Cerviche, which came decoratively perched in a large martini glass. The fish was soaked in a citrus juice and was served with ginger “tostones” (i.e. chips). The highlight, however, was the pork tenderloin, which came with a medley of diced Asian vegetables in a Sake sauce. Extra sake came on the side in a sherry glass glued to the plate by a wad of wasabi. Dripping the sake over the pork gave it terrific flavor. My splitting dinner partner and I fought voraciously over each morsel.
The restaurant was dead on the cold Tuesday evening we went which enabled executive chef Diego Conconati to come out and chat with us. He was friendly and shy but obviously passionate about his little culinary niche.
The bar matron was very talented in mixing up all those bizarrely named South American drinks like Caipirinhas and Mojitos. There were several worshippers glued to their stools at the bar that parallels the tables.
So Boulderites, don’t forget Seven when wandering around the Pearl Street Mall. It is situated across from the Daily Camera building on the west side of the mall. How rowdy and noisy it gets on the weekends you will have to discover for yourself. Bag a table though and avoid the booth seats unless your body naturally conforms to right angles. If it does, this kind of fusion is probably too out there for you anyway. Maybe we’ll see you because we plan to go back.